Oil Advice and Recommendations Here

[opieoilman]

You will have already seen me around and hopefully the advice and posts that I have made will have been of interest to you.

As you know I work for an Oil Distributor who has access to a lot of technical information on a broad range of oils.

I am prepared to offer advice and recommendations on this thread for any make of car.

To assist me, you will need to give me specific information as the data that I get is from a proprietory database and an accurate recommendation is only as good as the information you give me.

I will not be posting brand names or prices, merely the correct viscosity and spec oils for your car.
I will email brands and prices to you on request.

I am also happy to give general advice if needed. Hopefully given time this thread will be of use to all Members of "Pistonheads".

To request a recommendation, I need the following:

Make
Model
Year
Engine size and type
Any significant modifications
Brand and viscosity currently used (if known)

I hope this service will be of interest.

Cheers
Guy

[mouseymousey]

I'd be very interested in another opinion on the oil I should be using...

Car: TVR Chimaera
Year: 1997 - 69000 miles
Engine: 4.0 litre Rover V8
Current Oil: Mobil 1 0/40
Mods: None

Cheers Guy...

Matt.

[J_S_G]

I'd have thought you can just break this down into several standard queries that'll cover a large percentage of cars:

* Rover V8, 1990-2003(ish), 4.0, 4.3, 5.0 in the Chimaera & Griffith
* TVR AJP V8, 1996-2004(excluding the Tuscan Racers), 4.2, 4.5, and 4.5 Red Rose, solely in the Cerbera
* TVR Speed 6, 1999-present, 4.0 & 3.6, in the Tuscan, T350, and Tamora.

(Sorry for excluding everything from the S3 back - not being a Tiv-snob or anything - just no expert on their engines!)

I'd actually be quite (pleasantly) surprised if the S6 & AJP engine was in any kind of database matching up viscosity <-> model.

[the dodger]

mouseymousey said:

I'd be very interested in another opinion on the oil I should be using... Car: TVR Chimaera Year: 1997 - 69000 miles Engine: 4.0 litre Rover V8 Current Oil: Mobil 1 0/40 Mods: None Cheers Guy... Matt.

I would be surprised if the oilman recommends this grade for an aging design like the RV8. 0w-40 is like bat's piss - Matt, how much are you using between services?

For info I use Mobil 1 m/sport 15w-50 in my 4.3 Chim RV8 with about 25k miles. The 0w grades are for modern 'cooking' engines. See www.mobil1.com for more info. (p.s. I have no connection with the company).

[catretriever]

the dodger said:

For info I use Mobil 1 m/sport 15w-50

Can anyone offer any pricebuster type comparisons for this stuff?

[opieoilman]

mouseymousey said:

I'd be very interested in another opinion on the oil I should be using... Car: TVR Chimaera Year: 1997 - 69000 miles Engine: 4.0 litre Rover V8 Current Oil: Mobil 1 0/40 Mods: None Cheers Guy... Matt.

Matt, you are using a good quality oil however it is a little too thin for the old rover V8, you may find it is drinking this stuff like my mother and her wine.

Go for something a little thicker, assuming you will go for a good quality synthetic look at the 10w-50 grade or even 15w-50.

A 10w-50 would be my choice as it will be a good all round grade for the car.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

J_S_G said:

I'd have thought you can just break this down into several standard queries that'll cover a large percentage of cars:

* Rover V8, 1990-2003(ish), 4.0, 4.3, 5.0 in the Chimaera & Griffith

The old rover V8 likes the slightly thicker oil mainly due to the oil pump not being to efficient, you have choices from a mineral multigrade to a full syntheitc. Being performance cars you have everything to gain from using a full synthetic.

Grades 10w-50 or 15w-50.

* TVR AJP V8, 1996-2004(excluding the Tuscan Racers), 4.2, 4.5, and 4.5 Red Rose, solely in the Cerbera

Again the V8 rules apply as above, anything thinner than a 10w-50 will disapear quick, for low mileage cars a 5w-50/5w-40 would be fine.

* TVR Speed 6, 1999-present, 4.0 & 3.6, in the Tuscan, T350, and Tamora.

For the speed six engine for all year round use you are looking for a 5w-40 full synthetic. If the car is being used on the track etc then a move to a 10w-50 would be suitable.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

[z_chromozone]

catretriever said:

the dodger said: For info I use Mobil 1 m/sport 15w-50 Can anyone offer any pricebuster type comparisons for this stuff?

I don't know what a price buster comparison is, but 4L of Mobil 1 15-50 costs about £35. I have started to use this oil in the V8S, there is an article somewhere where TVR suggest using this grade (in the bible ).

Z

[opieoilman]

catretriever said:

the dodger said: For info I use Mobil 1 m/sport 15w-50 Can anyone offer any pricebuster type comparisons for this stuff?

Ok might get in trouble for this, but never mind.

Mobil 1 15w-50 4 liters £26.49
Silkolene Pro R 15w-50 5 liters £26.99

Bear in mind the Pro R is a superior oil.

Cheers

Guy.

[HarryW]

opieoilman said:

catretriever said: the dodger said: For info I use Mobil 1 m/sport 15w-50 Can anyone offer any pricebuster type comparisons for this stuff? Ok might get in trouble for this, but never mind. Mobil 1 15w-50 4 liters £26.49 Silkolene Pro R 15w-50 5 liters £26.99 Bear in mind the Pro R is a superior oil. Cheers Guy.

Without predjudice nor commitment what do you recon to a certain CFS 10W-60, surely best of both worlds .
Just looked at that price for sikolene Pro R where is it available at that price , if you don't mind me asking.

Harry

[leorest]

opieoilman said:

Mobil 1 15w-50 4 liters £26.49 Silkolene Pro R 15w-50 5 liters £26.99 Bear in mind the Pro R is a superior oil.

My car...
Make - TVR
Model - 350i
Year - 1985
Engine - Fuel injected 3.5l RV8 as per SD1 Vitesse
Any significant modifications - None
Oil - Mobile 1 motorsport (15w/50 I think)

• Do you recommend that I use Silkolene Pro R at the next change?

• In what way is it better than Mobile 1 motorsport?

Quality and quantity for less dosh, that doesn't happen often:-)

You're providing an axcellent service,
manny thanks
Leo

[opieoilman]

HarryW said:

Without predjudice nor commitment what do you recon to a certain CFS 10W-60, surely best of both worlds . Just looked at that price for sikolene Pro R where is it available at that price , if you don't mind me asking. Harry

Harry, the certain 10w-60 is an ok oil most likely a hydrocracked mineral, however virtually no car needs an oil of this viscosity. When hot it is as thick as some gear oils, this initially translates to good oil pressure, and too much focus is based on this as pressure is measured on resistance and not flow, and flow is the more improtant of the two. A good quality shear stable 10w-50 will out perform a 10w-60 anytime.

Beacuse most 10w-60 are hydrocracked mineral oils they tend to shear down quite early, so after only a few thousand miles the 10w-60 may well be operating a 10w-40 or lower, A good PAO/Ester synthetic will stay in grade for a lot longer.

As for Silkolene at those prices. E-mail me.

Cheers

Guy.

[gsx600]

Make TVR
Model 400
Year 89
Engine size and type 1992 4.5 BV
Any significant modifications Jag injectors, jag air flow meter, currently replacing head gasket and using GTX magnatec to flush through system

[opieoilman]

leorest said:

opieoilman said: Mobil 1 15w-50 4 liters £26.49 Silkolene Pro R 15w-50 5 liters £26.99 Bear in mind the Pro R is a superior oil. My car... Make - TVR Model - 350i Year - 1985 Engine - Fuel injected 3.5l RV8 as per SD1 Vitesse Any significant modifications - None Oil - Mobile 1 motorsport (15w/50 I think) Do you recommend that I use Silkolene Pro R at the next change? In what way is it better than Mobile 1 motorsport? Quality and quantity for less dosh, that doesn't happen often:-) You're providing an axcellent service, manny thanks Leo

The Mobil 1 you are using is the of the right grade and quality and if you are happy with it dont change. The Silkolene has the edge as it is a PAO/Ester as apposed to a straight PAO synthetic.

Esters assist the additive pack in a motor oil formulation because they are surface-active (electrostatically attracted to metal surfaces), so they help to reduce wear and friction.

They are fluid at very low temperatures and at high temperatures they are very chemically stable and have low volatility (don’t evaporate away).

They also help to prevent hardening and cracking of oil seals at high temperatures.

The reason the Mobil is so expensive is because it is trendy, quite simply you pay around 30% extra for their product because of this and their marketing, all those Formula 1 signs we see on TV every sunday cost a bit of money etc.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

gsx600 said:

Make TVR Model 400 Year 89 Engine size and type 1992 4.5 BV Any significant modifications Jag injectors, jag air flow meter, currently replacing head gasket and using GTX magnatec to flush through system

The GTX is fine to flush through and for a short run after just to bed it all back in, once this is done again go for a 10w-50 grade, a good Quality PAO or Ester synthetic. The likes of Mobil, Silkolene and redline would suit.

Cheers

Guy.

[wixer]

I'd be interested in any recommendations for a running in oil. Earlier this year the engine on my RV8 5.0litre Griffith was rebuilt and we put Valvoline Racing VR1 15W40 from the outset. The engine has a very high oil consumption approx 1litre per 300 miles and smokes when under intial acceleration. There are various thoughts on why this is and one of them is the oil was too good for running in and that the bores have, as a result, been glazed. Any thoughts ??

[opieoilman]

wixer said:

I'd be interested in any recommendations for a running in oil. Earlier this year the engine on my RV8 5.0litre Griffith was rebuilt and we put Valvoline Racing VR1 15W40 from the outset. The engine has a very high oil consumption approx 1litre per 300 miles and smokes when under intial acceleration. There are various thoughts on why this is and one of them is the oil was too good for running in and that the bores have, as a result, been glazed. Any thoughts ??

Yep that sounds about right to me. Putting in a full or even a semi synthetic can cause this to occur. When running in a new or rebuilt engine use a thick good quality mineral multigrade around the 15w-50 or 20w-50 mark for around a thousand miles, this is essential to bed the engine in correctly.

If you are burning a liter every 300 miles I would have it looked at. At worst you should be burning a liter every thousand.

Cheers

Guy.

[selmer]

Right on cue: I had posted over at Wedge forum earlier today.
Perhaps you can help.
When I bought my motor (with a new 4.6), I was advised that because of the nature of the RV8 and it's 'age' it runs best on normal oil eg. Castrol GTX, and the guy kindly handed me a full can of the stuff. Now having read the Bible I see that He recommends synths. I'm not ready for an oil change and the motor hasn't used any since I got it a month ago but I'm concerned as to what I should be using.
A friend told me that he uses semi-synth because once the engine's used some mineral you can't switch totally to synth, but having looked at the Mobil 1 page I see that this may be a myth.
So, I've got a motor (only 2500miles) running with mineral; what to do next change?
Thanks mate.

>> Edited by selmer on Tuesday 14th September 14:12

[paddym]

Dear Dr. Oil,

I have a 5.0 l RV8 (March 97, Chimeria) 50k odd, with the Taraka upgrade from TVR Power in it for the last 500 miles.

Most driving is road based, year round - but with idle garage time sometimes stretching to a couple of weeks), do about 2 track hoons (like that word) a year

[Northern_Paul]

Dr Oil

Might be a bit off subject, do you have any thoughts on flushing the engine(4.0 RV8 with 60K) prior to changing the oil.

I've heard this is less advantageous the more miles on the engine.


Thanks