Discussion
Steve_D said:
Where did you get your lead and did it come already configured?
Had a few problems getting mine going...seems my attempts to get it into the reverse mode was the problem.
Steve
Got all the kit from Blitz. Copied everything to folder on my laptop, program runs ok but it won't talk to the ECUHad a few problems getting mine going...seems my attempts to get it into the reverse mode was the problem.
Steve
What is reverse mode? And what was the solution?
Have you read the section 'RoverGauge installation notes' on Mark's website:
http://www.g33.co.uk/fuel_injection.htm
Especially the part about COM settings? If so I'd send Mark an email.
http://alum.wpi.edu/~colinb/14cux_interface.html
As you have a Blitz cable this is done within the plug interface.
http://www.g33.co.uk/fuel_injection.htm
Especially the part about COM settings? If so I'd send Mark an email.
jr6yam said:
... What is reverse mode? And what was the solution?
I think this refers to inversion of the RxD line, see:http://alum.wpi.edu/~colinb/14cux_interface.html
As you have a Blitz cable this is done within the plug interface.
Edited by davep on Monday 5th August 12:31
chris1972 said:
Thanks.I have Blitz's number, and will give him a call when I've got a spare 5 min's
It should all plug and play apart from setting the com's number in RoverGauges options menu. Even if the ECU wont talk to you (green light in plug), you should get the red transmit light in the USB end of the cable when you connect. This shows Windows / RoverGauge is talking to the hardware. Try re installing the cable drivers if Windows does not recognise the plug as a valid coms port in device manager.
Hey all,
Having some issues here myself. Managed to get the ports configured and have flashing red LED for transmit but nothing back from the ECU. When I power the car up in connect I get a single green flash but nothing more.
Pinned out the 3 pins and I have voltage and a stable earth where I should.
Any ideas?
Having some issues here myself. Managed to get the ports configured and have flashing red LED for transmit but nothing back from the ECU. When I power the car up in connect I get a single green flash but nothing more.
Pinned out the 3 pins and I have voltage and a stable earth where I should.
Any ideas?
Am reading this with interest. With a friends help also tried to set up and get Rovergauge to work. (The software works on his Griffith). We had the same connectivity with the ECU problem. Tried a different proven cable, a different ECU, and different proven laptop with separately loaded working software all to no avail.
By this process of elimination/substitution we concluded that the only common factor was the three pin plug or cable continuity in the ECU loom. Going to have a delve in this area. Any other ideas and suggestions welcome as I am really keen to get this to work.
By this process of elimination/substitution we concluded that the only common factor was the three pin plug or cable continuity in the ECU loom. Going to have a delve in this area. Any other ideas and suggestions welcome as I am really keen to get this to work.
It should be straight forward- there are only three pins on the cable- transmit, receive and earth. When RoverGauge runs up it send a request to the ECU for data, so you get the transmit light flashing. Now as long as the ECU gets the signal at the other end, it will reply with its sensor data. If you dont get the second light flashing, then most likely you have a break in the wiring to and from the ECU, or the ECU is faulty. The data back from the ECU is inverted, so the cable electronics has to swap it though 180' so RoverGauge can read it. Even if the cable has lost its programming so the data is not inverted, the lights should flash even though RoverGauge wont display anything. You can run a simply cable test by connecting transmit to receive on the 3 pin connector and starting RoverGauge as below and both lights should flash, but you wont get any readings obviously. In order to make the RoverGauge cable compatible with USB, the signal from the ECU is switched at 5 volts, not the 12 volts the ancient interface the Lucas Testbook used. The ECU seems to take this 5 volt signal quite happily and respond to it, but its possible that as the electronics has aged some ECUs wont work at 5 volts, but its not been flagged as an issue so far on the 2000 odd cables that have been sold.
What I will do when I get home is do a resistance check across the transmit pins and receive pins to ground on the Lucas loom connector and post these values, as it would be an easy way to check loom connectivity to the ECU.
What I will do when I get home is do a resistance check across the transmit pins and receive pins to ground on the Lucas loom connector and post these values, as it would be an easy way to check loom connectivity to the ECU.
Edited by blitzracing on Thursday 2nd June 14:12
Windows should grab one port number when the cable is first plugged in, and then keep it, unless something changes in the cable programming, which should not happen. If you look in device manager under you comms port, you should see the cable as an active device (comm' port xx) when its plugged in. It will then disappear the moment you unplug it. The port remains reserved for the cable however, and becomes a hidden device, so its no longer visible. You can see these hidden devices by the view menu- show hidden devices. If you have plugged multiple devices in, you can have lots of comm's ports there that are not being used, so its quite safe to right mouse click on them and uninstall- but dont remove the software. You cant do any damage this way, even if you remove something that's being used windows will just reinstall it next time it boots. If you remove all the comm's port devices, windows will then re assign a new port number to the cable next time its plugged in- good as new. The reassign port number software that comes with the cable allows you to put the cable on a specific comm port as long as its not being used by any other active device, but you should not normally need to do this. I put it there as the very early versions of RoverGauge only supported limited comm' port numbers, so you could run out of free ports quite quickly and would need to grab one that had become hidden but that's been long since fixed. Of course the clue in all of this is RoverGauge will say "cant open serial device comxx" if you have the port number wrong in the options menu.
blitzracing said:
Windows should grab one port number when the cable is first plugged in, and then keep it
With rovergauge it doesn't retain the com port allocation. If you buy from the PH seller he includes a program that will allow the com port allocation to remain fixed but it's an additional program that needs to be run after the initial setup Thats me then. 
Probably worth removing all the hidden coms ports as above then, and let windows re plug and play, as it should not loose the port number once its been set once. It will allocate a new port number if you plug another RoverGauge cable in, as effectively this is another device as far as windows is concerned, even though its another cable of the same type. There is some sort of hardware identification number on every device that windows locks into, and even a small change in the device such as reprogramming the cable parameters will cause a new com number to be allocated. Not that this should happen if you simply unplug and re-plug the same cable, something is not quite right there.
Probably worth removing all the hidden coms ports as above then, and let windows re plug and play, as it should not loose the port number once its been set once. It will allocate a new port number if you plug another RoverGauge cable in, as effectively this is another device as far as windows is concerned, even though its another cable of the same type. There is some sort of hardware identification number on every device that windows locks into, and even a small change in the device such as reprogramming the cable parameters will cause a new com number to be allocated. Not that this should happen if you simply unplug and re-plug the same cable, something is not quite right there.Gassing Station | General TVR Stuff & Gossip | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff