Inspecting the outriggers on Chimaera / Griffith
Discussion
Hello all, after a lengthy children enforced TVR hiatus I am dipping my toe back into the water.
Seems like the number one thing to check on these cars is the state of the outriggers. As a novice and assuming no ramp what is the best way to check condition when inspecting a car. I believe there are certain areas which are more prone to decay so I'm wondering if there is somewhere I can check which would give me a reasonable clue as to the overall state of the chassis?
thanks in advance!
Seems like the number one thing to check on these cars is the state of the outriggers. As a novice and assuming no ramp what is the best way to check condition when inspecting a car. I believe there are certain areas which are more prone to decay so I'm wondering if there is somewhere I can check which would give me a reasonable clue as to the overall state of the chassis?
thanks in advance!
You are certainly right about the chassis being the number 1 inspection item. The front and rear corners of both outriggers are the Achilles heel areas, just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels.
Being 100% certain of the condition in the vulnerable areas is virtually impossible with the body in place - but you're not going to remove it during a pre-purchase inspection!
Without a ramp you are still going to have to jack the car up to inspect these areas reasonably. You'l lneed to place an axle stand underneath, then get under each corner yourself. You'll be looking at the condition of the tubulars where they meet at 90 degrees above a small triangular plate. (The very corners of the outriggers.) Mud WILL collect and compress in this area so the trick is to carefully dig any muck out and inspect the weld of the tubulars to the steel plates. And sod's law means that without mirrors you simply can't quite see this area - unless you've got eyes on stalks! So a torch and small inspection mirror is essential. Most Chimaeras will have some degree of rot in these areas, unless the outriggers have been replaced (or in some cases even after they've been replaced!) or they have led a VERY pampered life with virtually all dry weather driving.
These areas will give you a fair indication of the rest of the chassis BUT there are no guarantees. the main backbone doesn't suffer as baddly but some still find holes adjacent to the exhasut manifolds, or in other places.
Access to a ramp really is best but if that's not possible take a good quality jack, some axle stands, overalls, a torch and a mirror. Be prepareed to spend a good 40-45 minutes grovelling on the floor and to get dirty in the process.
I had mine professionally inspected by an expert prior to purchase. The previous owner was impressed by how thoroughly the guy checked the outriggers using the tools outlined above - and how high off the ground he managed to get the car. He was 100% accurate in his diagnosis so it is possible with a little patience and if you know what you're looking for.
How difficult can it be....?
Being 100% certain of the condition in the vulnerable areas is virtually impossible with the body in place - but you're not going to remove it during a pre-purchase inspection!
Without a ramp you are still going to have to jack the car up to inspect these areas reasonably. You'l lneed to place an axle stand underneath, then get under each corner yourself. You'll be looking at the condition of the tubulars where they meet at 90 degrees above a small triangular plate. (The very corners of the outriggers.) Mud WILL collect and compress in this area so the trick is to carefully dig any muck out and inspect the weld of the tubulars to the steel plates. And sod's law means that without mirrors you simply can't quite see this area - unless you've got eyes on stalks! So a torch and small inspection mirror is essential. Most Chimaeras will have some degree of rot in these areas, unless the outriggers have been replaced (or in some cases even after they've been replaced!) or they have led a VERY pampered life with virtually all dry weather driving.
These areas will give you a fair indication of the rest of the chassis BUT there are no guarantees. the main backbone doesn't suffer as baddly but some still find holes adjacent to the exhasut manifolds, or in other places.
Access to a ramp really is best but if that's not possible take a good quality jack, some axle stands, overalls, a torch and a mirror. Be prepareed to spend a good 40-45 minutes grovelling on the floor and to get dirty in the process.
I had mine professionally inspected by an expert prior to purchase. The previous owner was impressed by how thoroughly the guy checked the outriggers using the tools outlined above - and how high off the ground he managed to get the car. He was 100% accurate in his diagnosis so it is possible with a little patience and if you know what you're looking for.
How difficult can it be....?
Follow the link on my profile.
Our web site has a corrosion Q&A section which has a number of pictures showing what to look for.
The most you will achieve just jacking the car up is to take a flat blade screwdriver and dig out the road grit from the gap between the chassis tube and the front of the footwell. Then use the screwdriver down that gap to tap the inside face of the fore/aft outrigger tube.
Your best result will be a nice clean ring sound of metal on metal. More likely will be a dull note telling you there is rust (which was almost a given anyway) but it does not tell you how much. Worst case is the driver will go through. An MOT tester familiar with TVR will deem this a fail as it is within 300mm of a body mount.
At the end of the day it is best to remember that this is all repairable which is more than can be said for any other car of that age. If the bodywork and interior are in good order a chassis refurb could put 20 years on the life of your car.
Steve
Our web site has a corrosion Q&A section which has a number of pictures showing what to look for.
The most you will achieve just jacking the car up is to take a flat blade screwdriver and dig out the road grit from the gap between the chassis tube and the front of the footwell. Then use the screwdriver down that gap to tap the inside face of the fore/aft outrigger tube.
Your best result will be a nice clean ring sound of metal on metal. More likely will be a dull note telling you there is rust (which was almost a given anyway) but it does not tell you how much. Worst case is the driver will go through. An MOT tester familiar with TVR will deem this a fail as it is within 300mm of a body mount.
At the end of the day it is best to remember that this is all repairable which is more than can be said for any other car of that age. If the bodywork and interior are in good order a chassis refurb could put 20 years on the life of your car.
Steve
Mr Nordic said:
Hi Ohidunno,
As Steve says this isn't a show-stopper, factor the cost when you buy for a repair against the price of the car and get it done or many cars have now had repairs or chassis, buy one that has had a new one.
The majority of chassis that left the factory where medioca at best there are afew that were powdercoated properly and have not seen many salty roads but most left the factory with poor protection, so factor in the outriggers, also check for holes below the exhaust manifolds. If you can't get your little finger between the chassis rail and bottom manifold pipe its a good bet that the powder coating will be coming off right along the toprail and underneath the transmission tunnel, after years of heat, water heat it will rust through and you can't see it unless you get the engine out or have a complete body lift.As Steve says this isn't a show-stopper, factor the cost when you buy for a repair against the price of the car and get it done or many cars have now had repairs or chassis, buy one that has had a new one.
Mark
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