Place your bets on my engine failure!!

[TVaRt]

Slowing down in second gear today, no bad noise, just engine cut out. Tried to restart and thought the batt was dead. But recovery came and put a battery on, engine wouldn't turn at first then eventually turned over but didn't fire, turned it about three times and there was a def metallic clunk. It's a v8 developments 4.6

Will drop the sump tomorrow, and take a look at the top end.

[simonwedge]

Sounds like something and nothing to me (hopefully!).

[TVaRt]

I really hope so!

[Munter]

TVaRt said:

Slowing down in second gear today, no bad noise, just engine cut out. Tried to restart and thought the batt was dead. But recovery came and put a battery on, engine wouldn't turn at first then eventually turned over but didn't fire, turned it about three times and there was a def metallic clunk. It's a v8 developments 4.6

Will drop the sump tomorrow, and take a look at the top end.

If you can see the top end after taking the sump off...

Hope it's something simple.

[TVaRt]

Yeah I realise that sounded daft! Sump first, then rockers/intake manifold I guess. Annoying thing is I finally took off the pulley weight from the original 500 engine as there was a vibration, which was the right thing to do as the engine was internally balanced, makes me think that now balanced the crank has now finally given in, a bit like bending a piece of metal can be ok, but bend it back again and it may snap

[Chuffmeister]

Although it is internally balanced, will the whole assembly not be balance too, including the pulley?

[TVaRt]

They are externally balanced from the factory. But each component should be individually balanced if the engine internals have been balanced.

Well the bottom end is in one piece and turns, but locks up when cylinder 1 and 6 are at the top of their stroke. Liners feel like they are still in place, there is no swarf in the sump (nothing magnetic anyway).

When turning over, cylinder 4 and maybe 6/8 are hissing... Lost compression!?

[TVaRt]

Well crank is in one piece, valve springs and rockers look fine too. But it won't turn one full revolution!

[Chuffmeister]

Plugs out borescope? Something in one of the cylinders preventing it reaching TDC? Timing chain?

[Dollyman1850]

Have you considered starter motor failing due to ignition back cap fail and that their isn't anything wrong with the engine??

Also have you dropped the caps? I have seen a rover crank in 3 pieces that looked perfect until the mains caps were unbolted?

How do you know valves are OK Have you lifted the heads?

N.

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Sunday 24th May 21:43

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Sunday 24th May 21:46

[TVaRt]

Starter is fine, it does try to turn. I'm turning it on the pulley with a breaker bar just fine, just won't go past a full revolution. I will take the heads off I think. Can I drop the caps and re-use?

Also can I take the heads off and leave the rods and cam in place, can't quite remember the set up. Need an rv8 book!

[N7GTX]

So could be valve-piston interference? When turning the engine over, are the valves opening and closing fully? If this engine had a timing belt the symptoms would be a broken belt so I'm thinking timing chain related problem.

[Chuffmeister]

TVaRt said:

Starter is fine, it does try to turn. I'm turning it on the pulley with a breaker bar just fine, just won't go past a full revolution. I will take the heads off I think. Can I drop the caps and re-use?

Also can I take the heads off and leave the rods and cam in place, can't quite remember the set up. Need an rv8 book!

I've not had the heads off myself, but believe that most people number the rods upon removal and then place them through a piece of card to keep them in order. This way they can be replaced in exactly the same way. I do know that the cam can remain in situ. Pop over to the Chimaera forum as it is visited more frequently and there is loads of experienced bods there that can help you!

[TVaRt]

Thanks for the help, I do feel it's valve related, I have over revved a couple of times possibly, could have bent a valve. Found the overhaul manual here

http://www.landroverresource.com/35_39_42_V8_overh...

Should help!

[stesrg]

TVaRt said:

Thanks for the help, I do feel it's valve related, I have over revved a couple of times possibly, could have bent a valve. Found the overhaul manual here

http://www.landroverresource.com/35_39_42_V8_overh...

Should help!

I would no blame over revving it as should be a limiter , I re-built my 4.3 years ago and the limiter was set to 7k and boy did it see the limiter , hope it's not to critical ?
Ste.

[TVaRt]

Well taken me 2 days to get the heads off, bloody manifolds!!

Found a small bolt in cylinder 1 that has come off the throttle on the act carbon plenum!! Thankfully bores are all perfect, only an indentation in cyl 1 piston, and indentation on the head, valves all ok.

[KKson]

TVaRt said:

Well taken me 2 days to get the heads off, bloody manifolds!!

Found a small bolt in cylinder 1 that has come off the throttle on the act carbon plenum!! Thankfully bores are all perfect, only an indentation in cyl 1 piston, and indentation on the head, valves all ok.

You lucky lucky *******! Blimey that could have been so much worse. Are you going to replace the piston or just bolt it back together?

[Pupp]

As you're so far into it, might be prudent to have a look-see at the big end shell on that pot. The bearing will have taken a bit of a pounding if there was mechanical interference when the engine was spinning. Sounds like a lucky escape generally

[TVaRt]

I'm tempted to bolt it back up. I'm taking the heads to be cleaned\light refurbed. Thing is the block is in the car and I don't really know what I'm doing with checking the bearings etc, I plan a rebuild in a year or two anyway.

Someone said to me to check the small end bearing and pin etc. Thing is it only must have turned 5 times max, and it looks like a reinforced v8d bottom end (h section rods etc) and cross bolted.

[TVaRt]

Well I popped the piston out and the big end looks fine. However the impact has closed the gap on the upper groove for the piston ring, enough that the upper ring will not rotate freely, anyone know if the groove can be recut or if it's new piston, rings and deglaze?