How bad is wax oil? Really??
Discussion
As A old land rover owner, where wax oil is the thing to use on our chassis, I'm wondering why it's so frowned upon in the TVR world?
Obviously, it would be lovely having a like new chassis, but being as I'm on a very tight budget and would rather have a chassis caked in wax oil and being structurally strong than not taking any action on its protection.
I know we all like show cars, but is it still reasonable to simply protect our chassis as opposed to turning them into show stoppers?
Obviously, it would be lovely having a like new chassis, but being as I'm on a very tight budget and would rather have a chassis caked in wax oil and being structurally strong than not taking any action on its protection.
I know we all like show cars, but is it still reasonable to simply protect our chassis as opposed to turning them into show stoppers?
I have it all over the chassis of my Griffith, it was on before I bought the car but it's certainly saved my 'white chassis' ('98 - '00) from rotting away as quickly as it would have if it had been left without the Waxoyl.
I guess it's not favoured by TVR owners per-se as it's ugly to look at, all the crap and grit sticks to it and if it's not checked over regularly for breaks and gouges it can harbour water and assist the rot and rust.
Ideally from a cosmetic point of view quality powder coat or other treatments are better but for quick and dirty it works especially of you maintain it annually.
I guess it's not favoured by TVR owners per-se as it's ugly to look at, all the crap and grit sticks to it and if it's not checked over regularly for breaks and gouges it can harbour water and assist the rot and rust.
Ideally from a cosmetic point of view quality powder coat or other treatments are better but for quick and dirty it works especially of you maintain it annually.
V8 GRF said:
Ideally from a cosmetic point of view quality powder coat or other treatments are better but for quick and dirty it works especially of you maintain it annually.
That's interesting, because I've seen powder coat where it cracks and harbours water - I wouldn't want powdercoat. For me a good (brushed on) zinc rich primer, undercoat and topcoat! I add that if brush painting is done well (using the correct paints - long open time- and good brushes, there's no excuse for brush marks!The underside of my Chim is coated to the max with waxoyl. As a result the chassis is pretty solid for its age but the waxoyl is hiding problems in a few places. The original TVR chassis powdercoating has a reputation for being "not the strongest" and so the result can be waxoxy sitting on flaking powdercoat ontop of a layer of trapped water in direct contact with metal, all slowly rotting away out of sight. Waxoyl is very messy and time consuming to remove if you need to do repairs. If I had a pristine newly renovated chassis I would stay away from waxoyl. That way you can see if the coating is breaking down and do something about it. I'm comitted to the waxoyl for now, although not through choice. Finally, I suspect waxoyl is conveniently used by "the Trade" to hide the rot when they prepare cars for sale.
Hope this is helpful. Waxoyl is like Marmite in every respect!
Hope this is helpful. Waxoyl is like Marmite in every respect!
GasDoc said:
The underside of my Chim is coated to the max with waxoyl. As a result the chassis is pretty solid for its age but the waxoyl is hiding problems in a few places. The original TVR chassis powdercoating has a reputation for being "not the strongest" and so the result can be waxoxy sitting on flaking powdercoat ontop of a layer of trapped water in direct contact with metal, all slowly rotting away out of sight. Waxoyl is very messy and time consuming to remove if you need to do repairs. If I had a pristine newly renovated chassis I would stay away from waxoyl. That way you can see if the coating is breaking down and do something about it. I'm comitted to the waxoyl for now, although not through choice. Finally, I suspect waxoyl is conveniently used by "the Trade" to hide the rot when they prepare cars for sale.
Hope this is helpful. Waxoyl is like Marmite in every respect!
I totally agree with waxoyl hiding the true state of TVR's for sale even by trade sellers. Many an outriggers true state has been hidden under layers of black waxoyl !! Hope this is helpful. Waxoyl is like Marmite in every respect!
Edited by portzi on Sunday 22 November 18:17
te. Like thick clods of yellow squity cream from a can, with the same texture. Back to black for me.Thanks guys, interesting feed back.
I've every intention of keeping both the RRC and my beloved chim 450, so obviously keen to keep them in the best condition possible - maybe having to forego the ultimate in asthetics in order to keep things affordable.
Is drilling some well placed holes in the chassis tubes a good idea to enable the spraying of some wax oil a good idea?
I'm beginning to think lifting the body maybe something I might attempt over winter.
I've every intention of keeping both the RRC and my beloved chim 450, so obviously keen to keep them in the best condition possible - maybe having to forego the ultimate in asthetics in order to keep things affordable.
Is drilling some well placed holes in the chassis tubes a good idea to enable the spraying of some wax oil a good idea?
I'm beginning to think lifting the body maybe something I might attempt over winter.
GasDoc said:
... drilling holes is not a good idea...
I echo that, I would drill holes in my chassis. I would just clean the mud and grit away from the outriggers, then clean and paint (I use white Hammerite) behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels. Then douse it all with Waxoyl. In fact the centre of the chassis seems to survive on the mist of oil that come from the engine so it's the outsides you want to concentrate on. RichB said:
The clear Waxoyl is fine, you can thin it with white spirit 60/40 or 50/5 according to the temperature at the time and then spray it on with on of those cheap household sprayers. I wouldn't bother brushing it.
That's a great idea,l have only heated the tin up in warm water to get it to liquid form but putting it in a sprayer and thinned down seems the best solution .
portzi said:
GasDoc said:
The underside of my Chim is coated to the max with waxoyl. As a result the chassis is pretty solid for its age but the waxoyl is hiding problems in a few places. The original TVR chassis powdercoating has a reputation for being "not the strongest" and so the result can be waxoxy sitting on flaking powdercoat ontop of a layer of trapped water in direct contact with metal, all slowly rotting away out of sight. Waxoyl is very messy and time consuming to remove if you need to do repairs. If I had a pristine newly renovated chassis I would stay away from waxoyl. That way you can see if the coating is breaking down and do something about it. I'm comitted to the waxoyl for now, although not through choice. Finally, I suspect waxoyl is conveniently used by "the Trade" to hide the rot when they prepare cars for sale.
Hope this is helpful. Waxoyl is like Marmite in every respect!
I totally agree with waxoyl hiding the true state of TVR's for sale even by trade sellers. Many an outriggers true state has been hidden under layers of black waxoyl !! Hope this is helpful. Waxoyl is like Marmite in every respect!
Edited by portzi on Sunday 22 November 18:17
I looked at an absolutely stunning Chimaera before getting my Griff - 'orrible - waxoyl/powdercoat/rust all stuck together and flaking away in chunks of doom. A fresh coat of waxoyl and the whole lot would have looked perfect again, without scraping or prodding it to check.
Griff has sprayed on underseal on the outriggers, probably just as bad - I need to get it off to see what's underneath.
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