How bad is wax oil? Really??
Discussion
Fastpedeller said:
V8 GRF said:
Ideally from a cosmetic point of view quality powder coat or other treatments are better but for quick and dirty it works especially of you maintain it annually.
That's interesting, because I've seen powder coat where it cracks and harbours water - I wouldn't want powdercoat. For me a good (brushed on) zinc rich primer, undercoat and topcoat! I add that if brush painting is done well (using the correct paints - long open time- and good brushes, there's no excuse for brush marks!RichB said:
Fastpedeller said:
Is the black waxoyl substantially different to the clear/brown one in being 'able' to hide the structure underneath? I've never used (or seen) the black.
OOI when you say brown what do you mean? The clear stuff is clear/milky white? Just my opinion but here goes.........The powder-coat on a chassis is in excellent condition, then why would anyone spray waxoyl onto it?
To protect it for the future...
.....to hide the first signs of the powder-coat breaking down is the real reason, and by then its too late.
This would probably have been done by a Tvr dealer when the car was 2 or 3 years old and up on the ramp at service time, it would be clearly visible that the powder-coat was beginning to break down.
"We have waxoyled the chassis sir, to protect it from damage and surface rust."
At next years service....."Sir we suggest you have the chassis sprayed with waxoyl every year to prevent corrosion."
Absolute bull
hit.
Real meaning....."lets hide the fact that the powder-coat is breaking down" and the result, 12 to 15 years later there is major chassis repairs being done nationwide.
To protect it for the future...
.....to hide the first signs of the powder-coat breaking down is the real reason, and by then its too late.This would probably have been done by a Tvr dealer when the car was 2 or 3 years old and up on the ramp at service time, it would be clearly visible that the powder-coat was beginning to break down.
"We have waxoyled the chassis sir, to protect it from damage and surface rust."
At next years service....."Sir we suggest you have the chassis sprayed with waxoyl every year to prevent corrosion."
Absolute bull
hit.Real meaning....."lets hide the fact that the powder-coat is breaking down" and the result, 12 to 15 years later there is major chassis repairs being done nationwide.
+1 I'm with Tom above.
I think we are talking about 2 types of owner though.
1. Those that I call 'Cheque book warriors' who don't really know that well how the oily bits of a car work or what an outrigger is, but love them nonetheless - waxoyl is probably one of a very limited number of 3rd party applied options to keep it going before major work is needed.
2. The tinkerer, who takes things to bits and knows the car inside out, and are pretty likely to give the chassis a close inspection once or twice a year before the problems get serious - for these owners I think waxoyl is unnecessary and more of a hindrance to determine the state of the chassis.
I think we are talking about 2 types of owner though.
1. Those that I call 'Cheque book warriors' who don't really know that well how the oily bits of a car work or what an outrigger is, but love them nonetheless - waxoyl is probably one of a very limited number of 3rd party applied options to keep it going before major work is needed.
2. The tinkerer, who takes things to bits and knows the car inside out, and are pretty likely to give the chassis a close inspection once or twice a year before the problems get serious - for these owners I think waxoyl is unnecessary and more of a hindrance to determine the state of the chassis.
Fastpedeller said:
Is the black waxoyl substantially different to the clear/brown one in being 'able' to hide the structure underneath? I've never used (or seen) the black.
Black waxoyl: On my car it's like 2-3mm of hard black wax crayon on everything. Forms a pretty decent coat as long as there's not flaking powdercoat or rust underneath. I can only get it off by scraping it with a knife or paint scraper. You can't see anything through it. I did wonder about using a heat gun to warm it/melt it off, but didn't like the thought of my whole car going up in flames, so paint scraper it was! Comes off real easy though if it's sitting on a huge loose flake of powdercoat 
Barkychoc said:
+1 I'm with Tom above.
I think we are talking about 2 types of owner though.
1. Those that I call 'Cheque book warriors' who don't really know that well how the oily bits of a car work or what an outrigger is, but love them nonetheless - waxoyl is probably one of a very limited number of 3rd party applied options to keep it going before major work is needed.
2. The tinkerer, who takes things to bits and knows the car inside out, and are pretty likely to give the chassis a close inspection once or twice a year before the problems get serious - for these owners I think waxoyl is unnecessary and more of a hindrance to determine the state of the chassis.
Nicely worded .....and 100% correct !I think we are talking about 2 types of owner though.
1. Those that I call 'Cheque book warriors' who don't really know that well how the oily bits of a car work or what an outrigger is, but love them nonetheless - waxoyl is probably one of a very limited number of 3rd party applied options to keep it going before major work is needed.
2. The tinkerer, who takes things to bits and knows the car inside out, and are pretty likely to give the chassis a close inspection once or twice a year before the problems get serious - for these owners I think waxoyl is unnecessary and more of a hindrance to determine the state of the chassis.
V8 GRF said:
Fastpedeller said:
V8 GRF said:
Ideally from a cosmetic point of view quality powder coat or other treatments are better but for quick and dirty it works especially of you maintain it annually.
That's interesting, because I've seen powder coat where it cracks and harbours water - I wouldn't want powdercoat. For me a good (brushed on) zinc rich primer, undercoat and topcoat! I add that if brush painting is done well (using the correct paints - long open time- and good brushes, there's no excuse for brush marks!Ideally oil would be the best rust preventative coating, but it's thin and wouldn't last long. Waxoly simply allows you to have a covering which lasts longer. It also disperses water on contact.
It isn't a miracle cure, far from it. And if something is rusty already, then the best Waxoyl can do is cover it up and maybe help slow it down a tad. But the damage is done. But applying Waxoyl to non rusty items is a very good preventative measure.
If TVR had waxoyled straight after fitting the bodies, even with their p ss poor powder coating underneath, maybe even with a halfhearted attempt at schutzing the outriggers for stone chip protection I bet far fewer cars would have needed replacement chassis or outriggers.
Once the chassis has been exposed, it's too late.
Once the chassis has been exposed, it's too late.
andy43 said:
If TVR had waxoyled straight after fitting the bodies, even with their p ss poor powder coating underneath, maybe even with a halfhearted attempt at schutzing the outriggers for stone chip protection I bet far fewer cars would have needed replacement chassis or outriggers.
Once the chassis has been exposed, it's too late.
If I was to re-design the body, there would be a removable panel running the length of the car beneath the doors allowing access to the outer rails. Once the chassis has been exposed, it's too late.
Bit late in on this. Bilt Hamber clear under body wax is superior in every way to Waxoyl (and Hammerite IS the spawn of the devil!! 
) I've been a convert to Bilt Hamber products since trying their de-rusting solution (deox-c) which is truly a remarkable product! Anyone wanting to use a wax treatment should check out their Dynax UC. When dry it is only very slightly tacky and doesn't collect lots of road debris. It comes in 750cc aerosol cans. And no, I don't own shares!
Pete
) I've been a convert to Bilt Hamber products since trying their de-rusting solution (deox-c) which is truly a remarkable product! Anyone wanting to use a wax treatment should check out their Dynax UC. When dry it is only very slightly tacky and doesn't collect lots of road debris. It comes in 750cc aerosol cans. And no, I don't own shares!Pete
Wedgefan said:
Bit late in on this. Bilt Hamber clear under body wax is superior in every way to Waxoyl (and Hammerite IS the spawn of the devil!! ) I've been a convert to Bilt Hamber products since trying their de-rusting solution (deox-c) which is truly a remarkable product! Anyone wanting to use a wax treatment should check out their Dynax UC. When dry it is only very slightly tacky and doesn't collect lots of road debris. It comes in 750cc aerosol cans. And no, I don't own shares!
Pete
+1 on this, I've used Dyanax S50 and the UB spray on my mini and it was great. Much better, cleaner and easier to apply than waxoyl. ) I've been a convert to Bilt Hamber products since trying their de-rusting solution (deox-c) which is truly a remarkable product! Anyone wanting to use a wax treatment should check out their Dynax UC. When dry it is only very slightly tacky and doesn't collect lots of road debris. It comes in 750cc aerosol cans. And no, I don't own shares!Pete
Also +1 on the hammerite, it used to be good, but the last few years the recipe has changed (think they took out xylene or something) and it's now rubbish, far too runny and doesn't do squat, I hear POR15 stuff is supposed to be a good alternative to hammerite although I've not used any myself yet.
With regards to the hole in the chassis tubes, I'm not convinced, mainly due to us just picking up half an M series chassis the other week, which had been on a car, then taken off and left outside for 20 years in what is basically a field. We cut the front end of the chassis off and the main tubes are still like brand new inside, the ones that had had holes drilled in them to fit things to had gone all rusty, but the solid ones were brilliant, couldn't believe it,
So to sum things up from all the posts;
Black Waxoyl- it sounds to me that it's best avoided unless it's already all over the underside of your car. It can and probably will prolong the life of your chassis, but can also very effectively hide rusting areas. And this will eventually happen.
If you have a painted or powdercoated chassis, then leave alone or coat with something reasonably clear which allows you to spot rust early when it occurs and treat accordingly. This might include "clear" waxoyl. The second reason not to use black waxoyl is on a purely aesthetic basis if you're into "chassis porn".
Does this sound like a fair appraisal?
Black Waxoyl- it sounds to me that it's best avoided unless it's already all over the underside of your car. It can and probably will prolong the life of your chassis, but can also very effectively hide rusting areas. And this will eventually happen.
If you have a painted or powdercoated chassis, then leave alone or coat with something reasonably clear which allows you to spot rust early when it occurs and treat accordingly. This might include "clear" waxoyl. The second reason not to use black waxoyl is on a purely aesthetic basis if you're into "chassis porn".
Does this sound like a fair appraisal?
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