Engine upgrades - power and smoothness
Discussion
taylormj4 said:
Interesting stuff thanks - not hear of 123tune. Will look into that. Does the increase at the top end revs come at the loss of low down torque? I am keener on low down off-the-line grunt as that's the range I use the car in more. The roads I drive on offer short blips between corners so I don't get to get the revs up in the higher 1000s very often.
In general, optimising ignition timing beyond what you can do with the mechanical advance/retard on a distributor will extend and flatten the torque curve both on both ends on the rpm range (the torque peak in the middle is where detonation occurs the soonest, below and above that point there's more advance to be had). We didn't put this to the test however, choosing to do a short 5-6K run, switching between two maps to see whether advancing the ignition timing further on the more aggressive map (for 98+ RON fuel) would reap any rewards. I didn't feel I had any particular problems off the line (at least, no engine/power-related ones! 
) but I did feel I got about 25 hp less from the engine than it should given the spec - which proved to be right and entirely due to the ignition side of things. 
I should have added to earlier post that I had a RR session at Southways nearly 3 years ago after they did a chassis refurb for me and from memory, I think I was up at around 270bhp, which seemed correct for a 450, so engine and management can't be far off.
The shunting thing is the main thing I would like to get rid of, that's what I meant by smoothness. So I could drive at a constant speed at 30mph without the tiresome shunt and get a smooth overrun with the stepper reconnected.
Only downside I have found to disconnecting the stepper is having to manually hold a high idle for 30secs on cold start up in the winter, so not a big problem.
Once the shunt was sorted, then I'd like to explore increases to low down torque.
Sounds like ignition and ECU are the way forward. I asked about inlet tracts as I had heard mention that the clearances and trumpet layout in the plenum could be one of the causes of shunting.
Kits and Classics seem to offer a Lucas remap service for £250, seems a good starting point ?
Anyone used anyone else that they would recommend ?
The shunting thing is the main thing I would like to get rid of, that's what I meant by smoothness. So I could drive at a constant speed at 30mph without the tiresome shunt and get a smooth overrun with the stepper reconnected.
Only downside I have found to disconnecting the stepper is having to manually hold a high idle for 30secs on cold start up in the winter, so not a big problem.
Once the shunt was sorted, then I'd like to explore increases to low down torque.
Sounds like ignition and ECU are the way forward. I asked about inlet tracts as I had heard mention that the clearances and trumpet layout in the plenum could be one of the causes of shunting.
Kits and Classics seem to offer a Lucas remap service for £250, seems a good starting point ?
Anyone used anyone else that they would recommend ?
RoverGauge should identify the high idle condition, as it gives a value for the target idle that will change depending on if the car is moving or engine temp- so first thing check the target idle and see if it matches the actual idle. Assuming they do, but the target idle is too high, this can be a badly adjusted throttle pot, or wrong speed input from the TVR speedo calibration unit, making it look like the cars moving when its not. This can be seen by a speed reading on RoverGauge when the car is stationary.
As for the ignition timing- that's an interesting one. I assume TVR did not go to the effort of modifying the bob weight to maximise the advance for a light weight car like the TVR, not a 2 tonne RangeRover that has very conservative timing to keep everything safe. From memory the stock dizzy runs about 28' of peak advance, where as the 3.9 can take 34' peak. If you take a stock dizzy and set it on peak advance, you end up with too much static advance in the process, so Im assuming BHP increase with the 123 comes from maximising the advance. You can do the same thing by filing the bob weight stops with the aid of a protractor to increase the peak advance on the stock dizzy, but you simply add few degrees of degrees to the top of the stock timing advance advance as the RPM rises-. Messing around with the springs to change the rate of advance is a whole different ball game as you have to strip the dizzy each time you make a change before doing a power check, and best not attempted as mapped ignition is easily available.
As for mapping the 14CUX, id avoid anything that is a "best guess" map Ive seen some pretty bad results, but the problem is you pay a lot of money for one, then you cant actually measure what its doing easily. On catalysts cars good mapping will keep the lambda trim to a minimum, and then add enough fuel to get peak power above 3400 rpm when the ECU goes open loop. As the car is constantly trimming the mixture below 3400rpm , you cant easily see if the best guess map is any good at all as the ECU covers up any errors. The TVR mapping tends to run a bit rich at just over peak RPM, (due to reduced volumetric efficiency and keeping the injector pulse at max) so the power drops off a bit faster than needed- so can gain a fraction by reducing the fuel, but you reduce the safety margins in the process and its only a few hundred RPM where you should not be holding an RV8 engine anyway.
You have much more scope if you don't have catalyst, and can run the green map, then you can tweak the mixture to your hearts content to get the best power / economy and race car pops and bangs on the overrun, but MOT time could cause a problem. Assuming your 14CUX is working OK in the first place, a trip to kits and classics could maximise the mapping for a fraction of the cost of a new ECU.
As for the ignition timing- that's an interesting one. I assume TVR did not go to the effort of modifying the bob weight to maximise the advance for a light weight car like the TVR, not a 2 tonne RangeRover that has very conservative timing to keep everything safe. From memory the stock dizzy runs about 28' of peak advance, where as the 3.9 can take 34' peak. If you take a stock dizzy and set it on peak advance, you end up with too much static advance in the process, so Im assuming BHP increase with the 123 comes from maximising the advance. You can do the same thing by filing the bob weight stops with the aid of a protractor to increase the peak advance on the stock dizzy, but you simply add few degrees of degrees to the top of the stock timing advance advance as the RPM rises-. Messing around with the springs to change the rate of advance is a whole different ball game as you have to strip the dizzy each time you make a change before doing a power check, and best not attempted as mapped ignition is easily available.
As for mapping the 14CUX, id avoid anything that is a "best guess" map Ive seen some pretty bad results, but the problem is you pay a lot of money for one, then you cant actually measure what its doing easily. On catalysts cars good mapping will keep the lambda trim to a minimum, and then add enough fuel to get peak power above 3400 rpm when the ECU goes open loop. As the car is constantly trimming the mixture below 3400rpm , you cant easily see if the best guess map is any good at all as the ECU covers up any errors. The TVR mapping tends to run a bit rich at just over peak RPM, (due to reduced volumetric efficiency and keeping the injector pulse at max) so the power drops off a bit faster than needed- so can gain a fraction by reducing the fuel, but you reduce the safety margins in the process and its only a few hundred RPM where you should not be holding an RV8 engine anyway.
You have much more scope if you don't have catalyst, and can run the green map, then you can tweak the mixture to your hearts content to get the best power / economy and race car pops and bangs on the overrun, but MOT time could cause a problem. Assuming your 14CUX is working OK in the first place, a trip to kits and classics could maximise the mapping for a fraction of the cost of a new ECU.
taylormj4 said:
I should have added to earlier post that I had a RR session at Southways nearly 3 years ago after they did a chassis refurb for me and from memory, I think I was up at around 270bhp, which seemed correct for a 450, so engine and management can't be far off.
The shunting thing is the main thing I would like to get rid of, that's what I meant by smoothness. So I could drive at a constant speed at 30mph without the tiresome shunt and get a smooth overrun with the stepper reconnected.
Only downside I have found to disconnecting the stepper is having to manually hold a high idle for 30secs on cold start up in the winter, so not a big problem.
Once the shunt was sorted, then I'd like to explore increases to low down torque.
Sounds like ignition and ECU are the way forward. I asked about inlet tracts as I had heard mention that the clearances and trumpet layout in the plenum could be one of the causes of shunting.
Kits and Classics seem to offer a Lucas remap service for £250, seems a good starting point ?
Anyone used anyone else that they would recommend ?
Get Jools @ Kits and Classics to sort it out. He knows what he is doing, can remap the 14 CUX, and has his own rolling road, for which he seems to forget to charge (when I had my 14 CUX first re-mapped by Mark Adams, 65% of the cost was hiring the RR he uses in Shrewsbury). I realise Chesterfield is a bit of a drive from South Wayels, as I did Newark - Newport - Newark on Sunday, so best let the train take the strain and leave the car with him for a few days.The shunting thing is the main thing I would like to get rid of, that's what I meant by smoothness. So I could drive at a constant speed at 30mph without the tiresome shunt and get a smooth overrun with the stepper reconnected.
Only downside I have found to disconnecting the stepper is having to manually hold a high idle for 30secs on cold start up in the winter, so not a big problem.
Once the shunt was sorted, then I'd like to explore increases to low down torque.
Sounds like ignition and ECU are the way forward. I asked about inlet tracts as I had heard mention that the clearances and trumpet layout in the plenum could be one of the causes of shunting.
Kits and Classics seem to offer a Lucas remap service for £250, seems a good starting point ?
Anyone used anyone else that they would recommend ?
And once it is running properly, if your wallet needs to go on a diet I am sure he will oblige with an Emerald installation for you, but as said above, get it running properly first.
If you want to know what a 450 running a TVR Power MBE system feels like, (and see a thoroughly well sorted Chim at the same time) contact Classichimi through the forums - that's what he has, he lives in Rugby, and is a decent chap. Never stops talking, which seems to be a TVR trait....of which i am as guilty myself
blitzracing said:
RoverGauge should identify the high idle condition, as it gives a value for the target idle that will change depending on if the car is moving or engine temp- so first thing check the target idle and see if it matches the actual idle. Assuming they do, but the target idle is too high, this can be a badly adjusted throttle pot, or wrong speed input from the TVR speedo calibration unit, making it look like the cars moving when its not. This can be seen by a speed reading on RoverGauge when the car is stationary.
As for the ignition timing- that's an interesting one. I assume TVR did not go to the effort of modifying the bob weight to maximise the advance for a light weight car like the TVR, not a 2 tonne RangeRover that has very conservative timing to keep everything safe. From memory the stock dizzy runs about 28' of peak advance, where as the 3.9 can take 34' peak. If you take a stock dizzy and set it on peak advance, you end up with too much static advance in the process, so Im assuming BHP increase with the 123 comes from maximising the advance. You can do the same thing by filing the bob weight stops with the aid of a protractor to increase the peak advance on the stock dizzy, but you simply add few degrees of degrees to the top of the stock timing advance advance as the RPM rises-. Messing around with the springs to change the rate of advance is a whole different ball game as you have to strip the dizzy each time you make a change before doing a power check, and best not attempted as mapped ignition is easily available.
As for mapping the 14CUX, id avoid anything that is a "best guess" map Ive seen some pretty bad results, but the problem is you pay a lot of money for one, then you cant actually measure what its doing easily. On catalysts cars good mapping will keep the lambda trim to a minimum, and then add enough fuel to get peak power above 3400 rpm when the ECU goes open loop. As the car is constantly trimming the mixture below 3400rpm , you cant easily see if the best guess map is any good at all as the ECU covers up any errors. The TVR mapping tends to run a bit rich at just over peak RPM, (due to reduced volumetric efficiency and keeping the injector pulse at max) so the power drops off a bit faster than needed- so can gain a fraction by reducing the fuel, but you reduce the safety margins in the process and its only a few hundred RPM where you should not be holding an RV8 engine anyway.
You have much more scope if you don't have catalyst, and can run the green map, then you can tweak the mixture to your hearts content to get the best power / economy and race car pops and bangs on the overrun, but MOT time could cause a problem. Assuming your 14CUX is working OK in the first place, a trip to kits and classics could maximise the mapping for a fraction of the cost of a new ECU.
Hi Mark,As for the ignition timing- that's an interesting one. I assume TVR did not go to the effort of modifying the bob weight to maximise the advance for a light weight car like the TVR, not a 2 tonne RangeRover that has very conservative timing to keep everything safe. From memory the stock dizzy runs about 28' of peak advance, where as the 3.9 can take 34' peak. If you take a stock dizzy and set it on peak advance, you end up with too much static advance in the process, so Im assuming BHP increase with the 123 comes from maximising the advance. You can do the same thing by filing the bob weight stops with the aid of a protractor to increase the peak advance on the stock dizzy, but you simply add few degrees of degrees to the top of the stock timing advance advance as the RPM rises-. Messing around with the springs to change the rate of advance is a whole different ball game as you have to strip the dizzy each time you make a change before doing a power check, and best not attempted as mapped ignition is easily available.
As for mapping the 14CUX, id avoid anything that is a "best guess" map Ive seen some pretty bad results, but the problem is you pay a lot of money for one, then you cant actually measure what its doing easily. On catalysts cars good mapping will keep the lambda trim to a minimum, and then add enough fuel to get peak power above 3400 rpm when the ECU goes open loop. As the car is constantly trimming the mixture below 3400rpm , you cant easily see if the best guess map is any good at all as the ECU covers up any errors. The TVR mapping tends to run a bit rich at just over peak RPM, (due to reduced volumetric efficiency and keeping the injector pulse at max) so the power drops off a bit faster than needed- so can gain a fraction by reducing the fuel, but you reduce the safety margins in the process and its only a few hundred RPM where you should not be holding an RV8 engine anyway.
You have much more scope if you don't have catalyst, and can run the green map, then you can tweak the mixture to your hearts content to get the best power / economy and race car pops and bangs on the overrun, but MOT time could cause a problem. Assuming your 14CUX is working OK in the first place, a trip to kits and classics could maximise the mapping for a fraction of the cost of a new ECU.
I have kept an eye on the target idle and it always seems to be correct. The road speed appears to be correct to and stopping the car is the one thing that brings the idle back down. However, drive off and the high rev appears again. At it's worst it was trying for 1800rpm so teh car would drive itself along and you would be braking against the engine to maintain 30mph and no overrun braking to be had.
My car is a 1997 catalyst and the TPS is the non-slotted design. I tried slotting and adjusting the TPS to get the right voltage at idle but then was told that this is pointless as the ECU learns the TPS voltage at idle so no point in adjusting it. Is that correct ?
The one thing that seemed to make the difference was resetting the base idle but I think that may have been a fluke as it later came back and no base idle setting would cure it.
QBee said:
Get Jools @ Kits and Classics to sort it out. He knows what he is doing, can remap the 14 CUX, and has his own rolling road, for which he seems to forget to charge (when I had my 14 CUX first re-mapped by Mark Adams, 65% of the cost was hiring the RR he uses in Shrewsbury). I realise Chesterfield is a bit of a drive from South Wayels, as I did Newark - Newport - Newark on Sunday, so best let the train take the strain and leave the car with him for a few days.
And once it is running properly, if your wallet needs to go on a diet I am sure he will oblige with an Emerald installation for you, but as said above, get it running properly first.
If you want to know what a 450 running a TVR Power MBE system feels like, (and see a thoroughly well sorted Chim at the same time) contact Classichimi through the forums - that's what he has, he lives in Rugby, and is a decent chap. Never stops talking, which seems to be a TVR trait....of which i am as guilty myself
Thanks QBee. Does the Emerald system use much of the original Lucas set up (sensors, AFM etc) or is a complete swap out. If the latter, I'm just wondering if the work to get the Lucas system would be wasted if you are going to swap ?And once it is running properly, if your wallet needs to go on a diet I am sure he will oblige with an Emerald installation for you, but as said above, get it running properly first.
If you want to know what a 450 running a TVR Power MBE system feels like, (and see a thoroughly well sorted Chim at the same time) contact Classichimi through the forums - that's what he has, he lives in Rugby, and is a decent chap. Never stops talking, which seems to be a TVR trait....of which i am as guilty myself
taylormj4 said:
Thanks QBee. Does the Emerald system use much of the original Lucas set up (sensors, AFM etc) or is a complete swap out. If the latter, I'm just wondering if the work to get the Lucas system would be wasted if you are going to swap ?
Call Jools and ask him, I still have the CUX. 07521 288875.The thing is, you can probably get the 14 CUX working properly for not much money.
Any aftermarket set up, done properly, will need a new loom, trigger wheel, ECU, coil packs etc etc and cost the thick end of £2000.
Jools is a lovely fella, and will happily talk through the options with you, but he will also do what you want, not try to sell you something.
Just don't be put off if you don't get him first shot - if he has a car on the rolling road he won't even hear the phone, never mind answer it! So leave him a message.
taylormj4 said:
Yex 450 said:
OP, I'm moving along the same path to a degree. At my last service I was told that my camshaft has 3 worn lobes, 2 of them quite badly. Discussing options with Dan Taylor who looks after my car I am going to have a new 885 camshaft fitted along with ported heads at the same time. We have discussed what sized porting to a degree but not agreed on anything as yet as I wasn't too sure what I was going to do next. However, I am eventually going to get Dom and his team to put an MBE system on the car so would anticipate that porting everything out to 45mm, adding a 72mm plenum and appropriate trumpets would be a good idea ahead of the MBE install.
Before I kick off the work I put the car on a set of rollers and it came out with 245.5BHP and 260LBS of torque in it's current form, which is standard apart from a smooth bore elbow. Once I've had Dan fit the new camshaft and heads etc. I'll put the car on the same set of rollers again and see what my £££'s have bought me and I'll also have a new set of numbers from Dom's RR once he has fitted the MBE system. A picture of an investment and what it gets you so to speak
If you can wait until late June for the first bit to be done you may get an idea of that you get for your money.
Thanks Yex. Sounds like someone is looking after you there and interested in your car. I must say I would like to get my car looked after by somewhere like that and really knows their stuff. I tried several of the known TVR garages over the years and haven't found anywhere that I have been happy with yet sadly. Where is Dom based if you recommend him ?Before I kick off the work I put the car on a set of rollers and it came out with 245.5BHP and 260LBS of torque in it's current form, which is standard apart from a smooth bore elbow. Once I've had Dan fit the new camshaft and heads etc. I'll put the car on the same set of rollers again and see what my £££'s have bought me and I'll also have a new set of numbers from Dom's RR once he has fitted the MBE system. A picture of an investment and what it gets you so to speak
If you can wait until late June for the first bit to be done you may get an idea of that you get for your money.
Dom is Dom Trickett of TVR Power fame, now known as "Powers Performance" for reasons you can read up on via the forums here
http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/
Give him a call and talk to him about what you are thinking to do as he is as good as it gets with RV8 engines. I'd recommend him to anyone as he looked after my car for the first 5 years I owned it and I have only just started using Dan Taylor as he is a lot nearer to me and easier to get to on a work day if necessary.
Just spoke with Jools at Kits & Classics: lovely guy, clearly very enthusiastic about what he does and credit to the chap he was really honest about the Lucas remap and its chances of curing the shunting. If my engine was running badly and/or I was after more power, that would be the way to go but curing shunting is still a pretty difficult thing to sort and not a consistent reason for it across cars.
He did mention some interesting ideas that I have not heard of before such as trying a run with no vacuum advance, altering the position of the plenum take-off for the vacuum and fiddling with the dizzy position.
So looks like I'll have to live with the shunting and then maybe see Jools or TVR Power if I want to extract a bit more power but as Jools said, as I've already done the full ACT inlet install, I'm looking at high £1000s to get significant power increases, i.e. over say another 25hp extra.
Apparently, the 450s are a bit variable anyhow. Some have 38mm bases, some have 45, some have ported heads, some don't. Think I'll have to strip mine down and have a look - quite intrigued now to see what I have.
For now, I'm going to keep an eye on the engine more closely with RG and see if I can catch it when the idle is high and find out what's going on there.
He did mention some interesting ideas that I have not heard of before such as trying a run with no vacuum advance, altering the position of the plenum take-off for the vacuum and fiddling with the dizzy position.
So looks like I'll have to live with the shunting and then maybe see Jools or TVR Power if I want to extract a bit more power but as Jools said, as I've already done the full ACT inlet install, I'm looking at high £1000s to get significant power increases, i.e. over say another 25hp extra.
Apparently, the 450s are a bit variable anyhow. Some have 38mm bases, some have 45, some have ported heads, some don't. Think I'll have to strip mine down and have a look - quite intrigued now to see what I have.
For now, I'm going to keep an eye on the engine more closely with RG and see if I can catch it when the idle is high and find out what's going on there.
[quote]Hi Mark,
I have kept an eye on the target idle and it always seems to be correct. The road speed appears to be correct to and stopping the car is the one thing that brings the idle back down. However, drive off and the high rev appears again. At it's worst it was trying for 1800rpm so teh car would drive itself along and you would be braking against the engine to maintain 30mph and no overrun braking to be had.
My car is a 1997 catalyst and the TPS is the non-slotted design. I tried slotting and adjusting the TPS to get the right voltage at idle but then was told that this is pointless as the ECU learns the TPS voltage at idle so no point in adjusting it. Is that correct ?
The one thing that seemed to make the difference was resetting the base idle but I think that may have been a fluke as it later came back and no base idle setting would cure it.
[/quote]
So are you saying the target idle is 1800 rpm when the car is moving? Id think 1200 rpm would be more like it. The throttle pot does not need adjusting as long as its the the range shown on the RoverGauge documentation with the throttle shut- it has to be less than 10%. If the base idle is correct, the stepper motor is about 30%- 50% open on a warm engine at idle. If there is too much air going in it will be nearer fully closed (0 end), as its trying to restrict the air more than it should to control the idle speed.
Steve Heaths ECUmate manual covers the idle control in depth- page 38 onwards.
http://ecumate.com/docs/Ecumate%20inst.pdf
taylormj4 said:
... I'm going to keep an eye on the engine more closely with RG and see if I can catch it when the idle is high and find out what's going on there.
Might be 'this is how you suck eggs' but set up RG with the faster diagnostic interface option and select the critical outputs only prior to doing a detailed data logging session. During the test run make a mental note of the time when the idle glitch occurred and concentrate on this specific time frame when analysing the log file results in Excel. Select the area where the glitch occurs and use Create Line Chart to get high resolution line graphs to compare all selected outputs at that specific instance in time.When I got my Griff it was barely driveable - but Jools replaced the AFM with a used genuine LR one, slotted the TPS to get the right reading at idle, set the timing properly (not to the timing marks!) and plugged the vacuum advance. Once stinking hot it'll usually pull quite happily in 4th/5th from just above idle, but is pretty crap and shunt-ey when it's still warming up - enough to annoy me, and I do keep thinking about new ecus...
I did want him to remap the 14CUX, but as it was standard and catted he said there's no point as the ecu in cat tune won't let you meddle too much due to emissions control.
I did want him to remap the 14CUX, but as it was standard and catted he said there's no point as the ecu in cat tune won't let you meddle too much due to emissions control.
blitzracing said:
So are you saying the target idle is 1800 rpm when the car is moving? Id think 1200 rpm would be more like it. The throttle pot does not need adjusting as long as its the the range shown on the RoverGauge documentation with the throttle shut- it has to be less than 10%. If the base idle is correct, the stepper motor is about 30%- 50% open on a warm engine at idle. If there is too much air going in it will be nearer fully closed (0 end), as its trying to restrict the air more than it should to control the idle speed.
Steve Heaths ECUmate manual covers the idle control in depth- page 38 onwards.
http://ecumate.com/docs/Ecumate%20inst.pdf
Sorry, badly worded...no, the target idle is always correct when I have looked at it on RG. Starts higher around 1150 on cold start and then comes down to under 1000. Typically the high idle problem occurs when I am not at home and cannot connect RG. Whenever I have used RG, the target idle is always correct. Guess I need to start carrying the laptop around with me so I can get on it when the idle rockets. TPS and stepper positions are within the ranges you have previously advise me of.Steve Heaths ECUmate manual covers the idle control in depth- page 38 onwards.
http://ecumate.com/docs/Ecumate%20inst.pdf
One quick question on RG whilst you're on....how do I find the latest version and update ?
Found these:
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge/releas...
https://github.com/colinbourassa/libcomm14cux/rele...
Do you have uninstall and reinstall ?
davep said:
Might be 'this is how you suck eggs' but set up RG with the faster diagnostic interface option and select the critical outputs only prior to doing a detailed data logging session. During the test run make a mental note of the time when the idle glitch occurred and concentrate on this specific time frame when analysing the log file results in Excel. Select the area where the glitch occurs and use Create Line Chart to get high resolution line graphs to compare all selected outputs at that specific instance in time.
I think I need to upgrade my RG. It's been quite a while since I downloaded it so it doesn't have the above functionality. SOunds good. I wasn't aware it could do what you describe.taylormj4 said:
davep said:
Might be 'this is how you suck eggs' but set up RG with the faster diagnostic interface option and select the critical outputs only prior to doing a detailed data logging session. During the test run make a mental note of the time when the idle glitch occurred and concentrate on this specific time frame when analysing the log file results in Excel. Select the area where the glitch occurs and use Create Line Chart to get high resolution line graphs to compare all selected outputs at that specific instance in time.
I think I need to upgrade my RG. It's been quite a while since I downloaded it so it doesn't have the above functionality. SOunds good. I wasn't aware it could do what you describe.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
QBee said:
Get Jools @ Kits and Classics to sort it out. He knows what he is doing, can remap the 14 CUX, and has his own rolling road, for which he seems to forget to charge (when I had my 14 CUX first re-mapped by Mark Adams, 65% of the cost was hiring the RR he uses in Shrewsbury). I realise Chesterfield is a bit of a drive from South Wayels, as I did Newark - Newport - Newark on Sunday, so best let the train take the strain and leave the car with him for a few days.
And once it is running properly, if your wallet needs to go on a diet I am sure he will oblige with an Emerald installation for you, but as said above, get it running properly first.
If you want to know what a 450 running a TVR Power MBE system feels like, (and see a thoroughly well sorted Chim at the same time) contact Classichimi through the forums - that's what he has, he lives in Rugby, and is a decent chap. Never stops talking, which seems to be a TVR trait....of which i am as guilty myself
I'm a very reserved chap in my own estimation, And once it is running properly, if your wallet needs to go on a diet I am sure he will oblige with an Emerald installation for you, but as said above, get it running properly first.
If you want to know what a 450 running a TVR Power MBE system feels like, (and see a thoroughly well sorted Chim at the same time) contact Classichimi through the forums - that's what he has, he lives in Rugby, and is a decent chap. Never stops talking, which seems to be a TVR trait....of which i am as guilty myself
If it's smoothness your after its smoothness you'll get with any good aftermarket Ecu install, my Mbe is no exception, smooth as silk and faultless. I've got standard 38mm trumpets etc and it still manages to get 300 bhp and 350 torques,, part of the Mbe kit is higher fuel rail pressure etc so it's got perfect fuelling up to 6200 revs, Jason at Powers just like Joolz is a diamond of a man and knows Mbe inside out having mapped hundreds of the speed 6 cars etc,
If anything it's the loom I like the best, very little wiring on show and water tight, the second thing is no stepper of any kind, just fuelling and ignition advance that controls the idle at 750 revs no matter what the weather, sensors take instant readings and compensate the fuel map,, it's interesting how the ignition will speed the engine up to keep the idle if the fuelling lags behind momentarily say when it's very cold, I just turn the key and it fires after one revolution like clockwork.
In this day an age of environmental disaster apparently looming I didn't like the car over fuelling mainly because of the smell, mine rarely displays this traight now, cooling is so consistent and having removed pre cats my car doesn't really ever get to hot, OK in traffic fans kick in and out and it's 90 on the gauge but never higher, it's just consistent.
Now I've removed the CUX and there's less fuel running about the engine my oil is cleaner for longer,,,
Far reaching benefits that include piece of mind and a realisation that all those many many little things that can and do now fail on our old cars CUX system is just throwing Money at a never ending cycle of services and poxy distributor caps that fail before they should,, on and on like that,,,
I like cars but fiddling with an old system that was almost the same as fitted to May 1980 Daimler I had years ago just gets on my nerves, if my car came out on sunny mornings for local drives I'd stay CUX, but anything else requires reliability, I'm off out to a car show,, see I'm quiet me,,,
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