Spare Crankshaft Spigot Bearing for Speed6 AJP8?

Spare Crankshaft Spigot Bearing for Speed6 AJP8?

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Discussion

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,138 posts

172 months

Saturday 16th July 2016
quotequote all
Anyone have one they are willing to sell that I could pick up today? Preferably near the M25...

Alternatively is this needle bearing used by any other make?

Thanks


ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,138 posts

172 months

Saturday 16th July 2016
quotequote all
Burton Power had the 21mm x 15mm bearing in stock - part no FP347.

However I have now hit a more intractable problem, all that remains of the old bearing which had imploded is the outer shell, which seems to have welded itself the the crank.

My bearing puller has broken trying to extract it, and trying to peen over the outer edge has proved impossible.

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,138 posts

172 months

Saturday 16th July 2016
quotequote all




Any suggestions very welcome.

alspeed

297 posts

205 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
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I've used a blob of mig weld in the past to remove stubborn bearing cases, the rapid heating and cooling usually fractures the metal.
Might be a bit awkward in your case though. If you do go down that route it might be worth tacking a length of rod inside and then if the case stays intact, you still have the option of pulling it out with the rod.

portzi

2,296 posts

174 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
alspeed said:
I've used a blob of mig weld in the past to remove stubborn bearing cases, the rapid heating and cooling usually fractures the metal.
Might be a bit awkward in your case though. If you do go down that route it might be worth tacking a length of rod inside and then if the case stays intact, you still have the option of pulling it out with the rod.
As alspeed suggests apply some controlled heat to the bearing, using a number 1 nozzle (smallest nozzle) with Oxy Acetelyne gentley heat bearing casing.

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,138 posts

172 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
portzi said:
As alspeed suggests apply some controlled heat to the bearing, using a number 1 nozzle (smallest nozzle) with Oxy Acetelyne gentley heat bearing casing.
Thanks both. But as I have no experience with MIG or Oxy I think that would be too steep a learning curve (basically too dangerous) for me to try.

I could perhaps try a MAPP Torch, something like the Rothenberger Super Fire from ScrewFix, but that's another £85 I'd need to invest. Would that be worth trying in conjunction with some Wurth Frost Off to quench it?

glenrobbo

35,075 posts

149 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
scratchchin Rawlbolt & slide hammer?

Or a tungsten carbide grinding bit to grind a groove in the old outer race?

Edited by glenrobbo on Sunday 17th July 11:30

glenrobbo

35,075 posts

149 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
Have a read through this thread:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=538...

HTH smile

FarmyardPants

4,099 posts

217 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
I'd try an electric jigsaw to cut a groove in it. If you can rest it on something and measure the throw of the blade you should have reasonable control. Good luck

glenrobbo

35,075 posts

149 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
Electric jigsaw??? yikes I think the stroke of a jigsaw would be greater than the depth of the bearing. Make sure you have a brush and dustpan to sweep up the fingers. Oh and plenty of rags for the blood.

Edited by glenrobbo on Sunday 17th July 12:06

FarmyardPants

4,099 posts

217 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
My mate Stumpy Joe suggested it smile

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,138 posts

172 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
From what I can tell it will not be possible to pull the race out from behind. That is because there seems to be a ridge in the crank behind the race to prevent it from being pushed in too far. When a puller is used on an imploded bearing it simply removes the edge of the shell, leaving almost a smooth surface where the shell meets the ridge. Unfortunately that means the mep12345 tool from the other thread won't work.

So I think it has to be ground or slit, or removed using a welding technique (which is outside my skill set).

Grinding and slitting will inevitably cause some damage to the crank, but as long as that does not affect the new spigot bearing that may not matter too much.

Right now I'd happily pay someone to come over and make this issue go away - Happily. So if anyone has a proven technique to solve this and wants to earn some money, real money not just beer tokens, let me know. I'm based near the Ace Cafe in West London.

phillpot

17,105 posts

182 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
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Home made "rawlbolt" bearing puller ................. clicky

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,138 posts

172 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Home made "rawlbolt" bearing puller ................. clicky
Sadly not, as there's nothing for the puller to get behind. The only thing left is the outer shell, which is now flush with the indent in the crank.

phillpot

17,105 posts

182 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all


It doesn't necessarily have to get behind, the Rawlbolt will expand and grip the remaining shell. the shell is hardened and can't expand, it'll work.....trust me wink

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,138 posts

172 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
It doesn't necessarily have to get behind, the Rawlbolt will expand and grip the remaining shell. the shell is hardened and can't expand, it'll work.....trust me wink
The friction between the Rawlbolt and the shell would have to be greater than between the shell and the crank, despite the much lower surface area and the 18 years of corrosion, so it seems very unlikely to me that it would work.

However, I am so desperate now that I will try anything, especially if you have your extractor available for loan. Please let me know.

phillpot

17,105 posts

182 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
The friction between the Rawlbolt and the shell would have to be greater than between the shell and the crank, despite the much lower surface area and the 18 years of corrosion, so it seems very unlikely to me that it would work.
A lot less contact area between Rawlbolt and bearing so greater pressure. I doubt the bearing is "that" tight, just awkward to get hold of?




ukkid35 said:
However, I am so desperate now that I will try anything, especially if you have your extractor available for loan. Please let me know.
Happy to lend it out, all I ask is you cover all postage costs. Can be in the post tomorrow if you let me have your address?

Jonbouy

239 posts

118 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
Just run a seam of mig weld around the inside of the bearing race, it will pop straight out. I've done this a lot with she'll bearings.

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,138 posts

172 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
Jonbouy said:
Just run a seam of mig weld around the inside of the bearing race, it will pop straight out. I've done this a lot with she'll bearings.
Thanks, another vote for MIG, but is that really something I could do with no previous experience?

Steve_D

13,737 posts

257 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
Jonbouy said:
Just run a seam of mig weld around the inside of the bearing race, it will pop straight out. I've done this a lot with she'll bearings.
Thanks, another vote for MIG, but is that really something I could do with no previous experience?
No, this would not be for you to do.
The outer race of these bearings is very thin so even a very experienced welder would have difficulty doing this without welding the bearing to the crank......which would not be good.

Steve