Feeling brave, front discs and pads

Feeling brave, front discs and pads

Author
Discussion

Nobbles

Original Poster:

585 posts

259 months

Thursday 28th July 2016
quotequote all
I have never done this job before. The car is my Panda 100hp, will I need special tools? How to get the piston back if no special tools? If I order the pads and discs - I am going for brembo - do I need anything else - clips etc. also online I have seen a guy use thread lock on the caliper mounting bolts - do I do the same ? Copper grease on the back of the pads?

HustleRussell

24,602 posts

159 months

Thursday 28th July 2016
quotequote all
Brembo is a big name but their 'OEM Equivalent' pads are thoroughly average. Pads from Fiat would be better. The rest of it sounds pretty bang on, you need to find out whether you need a wind back tool. Brake disc retaining screws can be a bit of a pain sometimes, impact screwdriver comes into its own here.

freddytin

1,184 posts

226 months

Thursday 28th July 2016
quotequote all
Most pads come with new thread locked caliper bolts. ( check thread against the originals )

No problem with wind back tools on the front. A G clamp or water pump pliers will ease the caliper pistons in .

Stay away from copper grease, can do more harm than good. Ensure caliper assembly is clean prior to assembly.

Nobbles

Original Poster:

585 posts

259 months

Friday 29th July 2016
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I have a choice of Bosch,brembo or pagid/hella. Considering a previous reply any recommendations?

Toaster Pilot

14,615 posts

157 months

Friday 29th July 2016
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freddytin said:
Most pads come with new thread locked caliper bolts. ( check thread against the originals )

Where do you buy pads from? Never seen a set with bolts in the box and I've fitted hundreds


Jazoli

9,086 posts

249 months

Friday 29th July 2016
quotequote all
freddytin said:
Most pads come with new thread locked caliper bolts. ( check thread against the originals )

No problem with wind back tools on the front. A G clamp or water pump pliers will ease the caliper pistons in .

Stay away from copper grease, can do more harm than good. Ensure caliper assembly is clean prior to assembly.
I'm sorry but two of your statements are bks, new pads do not come with caliper bolts (I too have done hundreds) and you should use copper grease on the back of the pads, it won't do any harm if used properly.

people giving out wrong advice on mechanical threads should step away from the keyboard.

lexusboy

1,099 posts

142 months

Friday 29th July 2016
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Jazoli said:
I'm sorry but two of your statements are bks, new pads do not come with caliper bolts (I too have done hundreds) and you should use copper grease on the back of the pads, it won't do any harm if used properly.

people giving out wrong advice on mechanical threads should step away from the keyboard.
Genuine Jaguar X-Type pads do, as do the Lexus IS200/300 genuine pads, genuine Toyota Aygo pads do... Just chill out before calling bks

t400ble

1,804 posts

120 months

Friday 29th July 2016
quotequote all
Jazoli said:
freddytin said:
Most pads come with new thread locked caliper bolts. ( check thread against the originals )

No problem with wind back tools on the front. A G clamp or water pump pliers will ease the caliper pistons in .

Stay away from copper grease, can do more harm than good. Ensure caliper assembly is clean prior to assembly.
I'm sorry but two of your statements are bks, new pads do not come with caliper bolts (I too have done hundreds) and you should use copper grease on the back of the pads, it won't do any harm if used properly.

people giving out wrong advice on mechanical threads should step away from the keyboard.
Pagid ones I fit do come with new bolts

Copper grease, I only use on the tails of the pad, as most now have there own coating on the back

Nobbles

Original Poster:

585 posts

259 months

Friday 29th July 2016
quotequote all
Most pads I have looked at online come with caliper bolts. It doesn't say if it is one or two bolts - home many do I need? Nothing comes with the discs.

Dogwatch

6,222 posts

221 months

Friday 29th July 2016
quotequote all
1. Get a manual (if you haven't already got one)
2. Keep oil/grease/fingers away from the pad and disc braking surfaces (obvious)
3. First time out do lots of braking before you need to, not when you have to, to bed the pads in.

thebraketester

14,192 posts

137 months

Friday 29th July 2016
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Get some ceratec grease for the back of the pads and the guide rails. Copper grease is not the best stuff to use at all.

freddytin

1,184 posts

226 months

Friday 29th July 2016
quotequote all
Jazoli said:
freddytin said:
Most pads come with new thread locked caliper bolts. ( check thread against the originals )

No problem with wind back tools on the front. A G clamp or water pump pliers will ease the caliper pistons in .

Stay away from copper grease, can do more harm than good. Ensure caliper assembly is clean prior to assembly.
I'm sorry but two of your statements are bks, new pads do not come with caliper bolts (I too have done hundreds) and you should use copper grease on the back of the pads, it won't do any harm if used properly.

people giving out wrong advice on mechanical threads should step away from the keyboard.
Ooops, chill out Jazoli.
I fully agree with your sentiment, in this instance we will have to agree to differ. I accept your experience may not mirror mine but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.
I usually source pads from local motor factors i.e Unipart or Ferraris and invariably they do contain new threadlocked bolts *4.
The pads themselves are often coated and require no grease.

Absolutely not intending to give out shonky advice , infact I will normally only comment if I have genuine worthwhile experience on a particular subject.
Unless I have been on the cider then it could be a load of tosh wink

Peace Jaz beer

S0 What

3,358 posts

171 months

Friday 29th July 2016
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Toaster Pilot said:
freddytin said:
Most pads come with new thread locked caliper bolts. ( check thread against the originals )

Where do you buy pads from? Never seen a set with bolts in the box and I've fitted hundreds
Anywhere, just done the rears on an astra H they came with new bolts and threadlock on them but you only seem to get them with rear pads, ni on every set of rears i've changed in the last 3 years comes with new bolts but it depends on the design of the rear caliper and wether you need to undo the old bolts or not.

Martin350

3,775 posts

194 months

Friday 29th July 2016
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The caliper mounting bolts being referred to could be the caliper carrier bolts, which may need to be removed to replace the discs.

These won't come with the pads and it might be wise to thread lock these on reinstallation.

HustleRussell

24,602 posts

159 months

Friday 29th July 2016
quotequote all
I've not seen bolts included with pads before.

The caliper carrier bolts will typically go again, the sliding pin bolts on single piston calipers sometimes will not.

I always use genuine O.E. pads on my own cars. They are invariably the best available, discounting performance upgrades which have their drawbacks

Nobbles

Original Poster:

585 posts

259 months

Friday 29th July 2016
quotequote all
Most pads I have looked at online come with caliper bolts. It doesn't say if it is one or two bolts - home many do I need? Nothing comes with the discs.

HustleRussell

24,602 posts

159 months

Friday 29th July 2016
quotequote all
You'll probably 'need' none although if new bolts are included they're worth using. The calipers affix to their carriers using two bolts so that's four in total holding the front calipers to the carriers. Four more bolts secure the caliper carriers onto the uprights.

Edited by HustleRussell on Friday 29th July 18:43

Nobbles

Original Poster:

585 posts

259 months

Friday 29th July 2016
quotequote all


So I bought the pagid discs and pads and the accessory kit (image). Let's see how we go. I have some copper grease that says for temperatures up to 1100 degrees. I will use this for the end of the pads where they sit in the caliper and the caliper pins... Does that sound like a good plan? Let's see when they arrive.

Hammer67

5,706 posts

183 months

Friday 29th July 2016
quotequote all
The important thing when fitting new discs is to make sure the hub face (to which the disc mates) is absolutely spotless. Any dirt will hold the disc out of true. Which will lead to issues with uneven pad wear, juddering etc.

For what it`s worth I have used the same tin of copper grease on literally dozens of pad changes over the years with no problems. Used sparingly in the right places it's fine.

Don't forget maintenance as well. All my cars have their pads removed annually for a clean up, the discs derusted, a deglaze and reassembly. This also gives you a chance to check other stuff whilst the wheels are off, driveshafts, springs, shocks etc. None of it difficult and avoids nasty surprises come MOT time.

thebraketester

14,192 posts

137 months

Saturday 30th July 2016
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Copper grease isn't the best. See my previous post.

Edited by thebraketester on Saturday 30th July 07:43