Water pump. Again
Discussion
Head where my feet should be! 
The header tank removal proved interesting! The two studs that hold it to the bulk head where not located in the GRP or in anyway located on or in it. They where just through holes with the nuts in the engine bay, and me looking for the other ends. Heance my head where my feet should be. Came up well though. Used a bird feeder cage cleaning brush. Did not even know one existed.
Water pump and t/stat went on Ok. Nice new stainless fastners.
And this is where things went a little strange. I refurbed the swirl pot and inspected and refitted the the hoses which where in good condition. The hose coming from the top of the pot in the picture is blanked off with a bolt in the end of the hose and jubliee clamped. It was cable tied down where the hornes are. I have it loose at the momment.
Any ideas as why this is the case would be welcome.
Also, how do i avoid an air lock when refilling the system?
This is no place to put ones head!
The header tank removal proved interesting! The two studs that hold it to the bulk head where not located in the GRP or in anyway located on or in it. They where just through holes with the nuts in the engine bay, and me looking for the other ends. Heance my head where my feet should be. Came up well though. Used a bird feeder cage cleaning brush. Did not even know one existed.
Water pump and t/stat went on Ok. Nice new stainless fastners.
And this is where things went a little strange. I refurbed the swirl pot and inspected and refitted the the hoses which where in good condition. The hose coming from the top of the pot in the picture is blanked off with a bolt in the end of the hose and jubliee clamped. It was cable tied down where the hornes are. I have it loose at the momment.
Any ideas as why this is the case would be welcome.
Also, how do i avoid an air lock when refilling the system?
This is no place to put ones head!
First, the blanked-off hose. I can't check my car at the moment, but as far as I can see from the thousands of photos on my web site, my swirl point doesn't have a connector or hose at that position at all.
With regard to air locks - first make sure the heater valve is set to "hot", then there is an air bleed screw in the top left of the radiator, open that and fill the system through the swirl pot - when water starts to flow from the bleed screw (not just bubble spluttering) close the screw and fill the rest of the system.
If you want to be absolutely sure, you can take out the coolant sensor under the intakes at the throttle, to make sure water and not air comes out there, then replace.
With regard to air locks - first make sure the heater valve is set to "hot", then there is an air bleed screw in the top left of the radiator, open that and fill the system through the swirl pot - when water starts to flow from the bleed screw (not just bubble spluttering) close the screw and fill the rest of the system.
If you want to be absolutely sure, you can take out the coolant sensor under the intakes at the throttle, to make sure water and not air comes out there, then replace.
theprof said:
The hose coming from the top of the pot in the picture is blanked off with a bolt in the end of the hose and jubilee clamped. Any ideas as why this is the case would be welcome.
Maybe you have a S1.5/S2 swirl pot. Does this blanked-off hose not fit to the header tank ? See #26 in attached pic.
What other possible hoses do you have, that would go to the header tank ?
TVRees said:
Maybe you have a S1.5/S2 swirl pot.
Does this blanked-off hose not fit to the header tank ? See #26 in attached pic.
What other possible hoses do you have, that would go to the header tank ?
No, the hose to the header tank comes from the neck of the swirl pot, not the main body (i.e above the pressure cap seal, if you have the caps fitted that way round) and is in the OP's photo heading off right past the alternator.Does this blanked-off hose not fit to the header tank ? See #26 in attached pic.
What other possible hoses do you have, that would go to the header tank ?
That blanked off hose is exactly the same on mine. Presumably TVR had an idea then changed it!
To bleed, run the engine with the swirl pot virtually full and the cap off, let it warm a little then rev it for a short time! The pump has a bit of difficulty getting the air out of the rad part of the system unless given a bit of encouragement. You will suddenly see the level in the swirl pot drop.
Agree, have the heater on. Can I presume you have flushed the heater through, it can stay off for years and get blocked?
I had an issue with air forming in the heater and thus low heater performance. I bought a little pipe insert bleed valve from the wonderful Car Builder Solutions and fitted this on the top run of heater hose a little in front of the bulkhead. That is the top point on the system. Test it now and again and the problem has gone. A cheap but very effective mod.
To bleed, run the engine with the swirl pot virtually full and the cap off, let it warm a little then rev it for a short time! The pump has a bit of difficulty getting the air out of the rad part of the system unless given a bit of encouragement. You will suddenly see the level in the swirl pot drop.
Agree, have the heater on. Can I presume you have flushed the heater through, it can stay off for years and get blocked?
I had an issue with air forming in the heater and thus low heater performance. I bought a little pipe insert bleed valve from the wonderful Car Builder Solutions and fitted this on the top run of heater hose a little in front of the bulkhead. That is the top point on the system. Test it now and again and the problem has gone. A cheap but very effective mod.
There's nowhere for that hose to go to on a 2.8. I'm guessing it's either had a replacement swirl pot at some point in its life (I think some S2 and S3 models used an extra hose) or it's just one of those TVR moments! Wouldn't worry about it.
If you're really struggling with air locks, you can fill the system using the swirl pot as normal, and then for the last little bit, pull off the 90degree coolant elbow from the warm-up regulator and fill the rest from there until the level rises in the swirl pot. I do this when filling with the waterless coolant, because as it doesn't pressurise, it can make bleeding in a bit of a 'mare the first time as the coolant doesn't find its own way around as much.
If you're really struggling with air locks, you can fill the system using the swirl pot as normal, and then for the last little bit, pull off the 90degree coolant elbow from the warm-up regulator and fill the rest from there until the level rises in the swirl pot. I do this when filling with the waterless coolant, because as it doesn't pressurise, it can make bleeding in a bit of a 'mare the first time as the coolant doesn't find its own way around as much.
steve j said:
On my S2, the two small diameter hoses are situated vertically on the swirl pot, the top hose fits to the expansion bottle and the lower hose fits onto the top of the thermostat housing.
The car is an S1 and I am afraid the water connection layout is different to the S2. The more you get to know them the more 'different' the S1 is. Even the cam runs the other way!
Once upon a time the cologne engine had a water cooled heat exchanger mounted between the oil filter and the block, this was fed from the lower pipe on the pump outlet whiched looped through the cooler and was then tee'd into the heater return pipe. Fine if you have the cooler, but TVR plumbed this through the swirl pot which effectivley by-passed the thermostat. Plugging the pipes avoids this and helps with warm up time
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