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97octane

2,185 posts

106 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
Hello Guy/Simon
I have a 2001 Griffith 500 LE (5.0l V8 engine) with 21k on the clock and no modifications.
I do about 7k a year in it, unfortunately quite a lot of town driving and stop/start. No track days but some spirited cross country driving when the roads allow. It gets used at least twice a week in winter and daily in summer
When I bought it it had Mobil 1 Motorsport (fully synthetic 15W 40?) in it, I thought that was ok until my independent TVR service chap recommended Castrol Magnatec (semi-synthetic) 10W 40. I think that this actually suits the car and my driving much better and I am pleased at how smoothly she is running at the moment.
Would you agree with this choice of oil?
Thanks
Alan

>> Edited by 97octane on Tuesday 24th January 15:21

rev-erend

18,218 posts

167 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
Opie

I have a T350 - is it OK to mix oil grades from the same oil supplier.

I have Mobil 1 0W 40 - could I add some of the motorsport grade (15/50..) think it is..

The oil pressure when really hot with these engines is not always that great - although the factory keep telling me it's fine.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,086 posts

119 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
ms89028 said:
Hi,

Chimaera 400 '97. Currently using Valvoline synth oil. It's my weekends and sunny days car so often can stand for a week or so before being driven. I always worry about the oil draining out of the engine into the sump so when I start it I let it tick over for a minute or so to let the oil pressure build up and re-coat moving parts. Would you recommend a different oil from normal to reduce wear or do the modern synths "Stick" to the engine parts and not leave bearings sitting dry ?


Hi,

Yes there are synthetics that cling to the engine.

Have a look at an ester based oil such as silkolene or motul, esters assist the additive pack in a motor oil formulation because they are surface-active (electrostatically attracted to metal surfaces), so they help to reduce wear and friction, as well as cling to internals of the engine.

They are fluid at very low temperatures and at high temperatures they are very chemically stable and have low volatility (don’t evaporate away).

They also help to prevent hardening and cracking of oil seals at high temperatures.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

mongoose

4,300 posts

138 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
FlipFlopGriff said:
Cheers Guy,
Maybe look at the Pro S when the 25 litres of Pro R is used up.
FFG
I use the pro-s,and its great stuff imho

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,086 posts

119 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
97octane said:
Hello Guy/Simon
I have a 2001 Griffith 500 LE (5.0l V8 engine) with 21k on the clock and no modifications.
I do about 7k a year in it, unfortunately quite a lot of town driving and stop/start. No track days but some spirited cross country driving when the roads allow. It gets used at least twice a week in winter and daily in summer
When I bought it it had Mobil 1 Motorsport (fully synthetic 15W 40?) in it, I thought that was ok until my independent TVR service chap recommended Castrol Magnatec (semi-synthetic) 10W 40. I think that this actually suits the car and my driving much better and I am pleased at how smoothly she is running at the moment.
Would you agree with this choice of oil?
Thanks
Alan

>> Edited by 97octane on Tuesday 24th January 15:21


Alan,

The Mobil 15w-50 motorsport is good oil, but not needed unless tracked or modded.

The Magnatec is just a basic 10w-40 semi synthetic, quality wise not very good but a more suited grade.

I would personally go for a good 5w-40 full synthetic for all year round use, brand wise we rate Silkolene and Motul as tops.

Cheers

Guy.
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opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,086 posts

119 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
rev-erend said:
Opie

I have a T350 - is it OK to mix oil grades from the same oil supplier.

I have Mobil 1 0W 40 - could I add some of the motorsport grade (15/50..) think it is..

The oil pressure when really hot with these engines is not always that great - although the factory keep telling me it's fine.


Hi,

Yes you can mix oils, all oils will mix infact, however unless you are tracking the car I would stick with a 5w-40/0w-40.

Low oil pressure is not a bad thing, remember that pressure is a measure of resistance and not flow, in the engine flow can be more improtant, usually means the oil is just travelling around the engine faster.

Cheers

Guy.

v8 racing

2,062 posts

134 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
Just out of curiosity guy, how do you know what oils to put in what engines? i mean do you have experience with the engines or do you go by the maufactures recomendations on the vicosity? its just that i supply silkoline pro s 10/50 for the rover v8 engines which i swear by and wouldnt use anything else, and have done extensive dyno time with these engines,raced them and had road cars, surely silkoline or motul or whoever dont do tests on every engine?
Rob

mongoose

4,300 posts

138 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
v8 racing said:
Just out of curiosity guy, how do you know what oils to put in what engines? i mean do you have experience with the engines or do you go by the maufactures recomendations on the vicosity? its just that i supply silkoline pro s 10/50 for the rover v8 engines which i swear by and wouldnt use anything else, and have done extensive dyno time with these engines,raced them and had road cars, surely silkoline or motul or whoever dont do tests on every engine?
Rob
What happened to the Royal Purple then Rob?It was only a very short time ago that you used and thought highly of this(not that many weeks ago).Is it no longer available?

Bomber Denton

8,725 posts

151 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
Hi there what would you recommend for...

Mk1 Mexico 1700 X Flow on 40s
Audi Coupe 2.0 16V (tall block four pot Golf engine)

shnozz

16,458 posts

154 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
Bomber Denton said:
Hi there what would you recommend for...

Mk1 Mexico 1700 X Flow on 40s
Audi Coupe 2.0 16V (tall block four pot Golf engine)


the tip.

v8 racing

2,062 posts

134 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
Hi Mongoose basically the guy that was supplying it to us turned out to be an absolute waste of time and we were waiting weeks for it, the few engines we ran it in certainly liked it, and one in perticular had no running in time from when i built it to him doing a track day and using the nitrous, and he even had oil surge in the corners!! i droped the sump that night just to check things over and it was like new, so i am in no way going to slate the quality of royal purple just the fact it is a B******* to get hold off!! and the silkoline is cheaper!

mongoose

4,300 posts

138 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
v8 racing said:
Hi Mongoose basically the guy that was supplying it to us turned out to be an absolute waste of time and we were waiting weeks for it, the few engines we ran it in certainly liked it, and one in perticular had no running in time from when i built it to him doing a track day and using the nitrous, and he even had oil surge in the corners!! i droped the sump that night just to check things over and it was like new, so i am in no way going to slate the quality of royal purple just the fact it is a B******* to get hold off!! and the silkoline is cheaper!
Ah i see.I know if you use it,then it ought to be good stuff.I'd been looking around for Royal Purple and never did find any!I wouldn't go off the Silkolene now though anyway,Must be the best vfm out there i reckon.

rev-erend

18,218 posts

167 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
shnozz said:
Bomber Denton said:
Hi there what would you recommend for...

Mk1 Mexico 1700 X Flow on 40s
Audi Coupe 2.0 16V (tall block four pot Golf engine)


the tip.


Sorry that is classic .. but very cruel. Somehow don't think Bomber will take that one without givin some back

rev-erend

18,218 posts

167 months

[news] 
Tuesday 24th January 2006 quote quote all
opieoilman said:
rev-erend said:
Opie

I have a T350 - is it OK to mix oil grades from the same oil supplier.

I have Mobil 1 0W 40 - could I add some of the motorsport grade (15/50..) think it is..

The oil pressure when really hot with these engines is not always that great - although the factory keep telling me it's fine.


Hi,

Yes you can mix oils, all oils will mix infact, however unless you are tracking the car I would stick with a 5w-40/0w-40.

Low oil pressure is not a bad thing, remember that pressure is a measure of resistance and not flow, in the engine flow can be more improtant, usually means the oil is just travelling around the engine faster.

Cheers

Guy.


Many thanks - I never thought of it like that..

That reminds me of an example a engine designer gave us a while ago - A large German sports car company had designed and built a new F1 engine (some years back) but it failed to deliver the designed power .. this engine designer put much of the losses down to too much oil pressure, oil stiction and oil jets causing problems.

Just his example on home even the best can sometimes get it wrong..

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,086 posts

119 months

[news] 
Wednesday 25th January 2006 quote quote all
v8 racing said:
Just out of curiosity guy, how do you know what oils to put in what engines? i mean do you have experience with the engines or do you go by the maufactures recomendations on the vicosity? its just that i supply silkoline pro s 10/50 for the rover v8 engines which i swear by and wouldnt use anything else, and have done extensive dyno time with these engines,raced them and had road cars, surely silkoline or motul or whoever dont do tests on every engine?
Rob


Rob,

Firstly we start with a system called OATS which is effectively an OEM Database of lubricant rquirements for almost every car dating back to the early 80's.

Then, we look at things like the use or modifications of the car, and of course offering every variety from the very basic mineral oils to the very best synthetics, we know what is what as we have had them tested.

Generally we find on many car forums people just want the best as their car is their pride and joy.

Both OEM's and Oil manufacturers do extensive testing on oils and engines... most engines function in the same way, so some rules of thumb can be applied when it comes to oil.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,086 posts

119 months

[news] 
Wednesday 25th January 2006 quote quote all
Bomber Denton said:
Hi there what would you recommend for...

Mk1 Mexico 1700 X Flow on 40s
Audi Coupe 2.0 16V (tall block four pot Golf engine)


Hi,

For the Mexico you have a choice, you can go 15w-40 mineral, 10w-40 semi synthetic or a 5w-40 full synthetic.

For the Audi, we would suggest a 5w-40 full synthetic for all year round use, assuming its Pre 2000.

Cheers

Guy.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,086 posts

119 months

[news] 
Wednesday 25th January 2006 quote quote all
rev-erend said:
opieoilman said:
rev-erend said:
Opie

I have a T350 - is it OK to mix oil grades from the same oil supplier.

I have Mobil 1 0W 40 - could I add some of the motorsport grade (15/50..) think it is..

The oil pressure when really hot with these engines is not always that great - although the factory keep telling me it's fine.


Hi,

Yes you can mix oils, all oils will mix infact, however unless you are tracking the car I would stick with a 5w-40/0w-40.

Low oil pressure is not a bad thing, remember that pressure is a measure of resistance and not flow, in the engine flow can be more improtant, usually means the oil is just travelling around the engine faster.

Cheers

Guy.


Many thanks - I never thought of it like that..

That reminds me of an example a engine designer gave us a while ago - A large German sports car company had designed and built a new F1 engine (some years back) but it failed to deliver the designed power .. this engine designer put much of the losses down to too much oil pressure, oil stiction and oil jets causing problems.

Just his example on home even the best can sometimes get it wrong..


Yes this is quite possible.

Its known that the thinner the oil used the less oil drag there is, less resistance means more power can go else where.

A few F1 cars currently run on 0w-20, some off the shelf.

Cheers

Guy.

laz11

517 posts

130 months

[news] 
Wednesday 25th January 2006 quote quote all
Hi I have a standard 92 4.3 pre cat griffith, appprox 50,000 miles.....use in all weathers regularly, with some short drives unfortunately as well.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,086 posts

119 months

[news] 
Wednesday 25th January 2006 quote quote all
laz11 said:
Hi I have a standard 92 4.3 pre cat griffith, appprox 50,000 miles.....use in all weathers regularly, with some short drives unfortunately as well.


Hi,

For your Griff you have a choice, most common is for a good 10w-50 full synthetic for all year round use, this will cover everything from day to day driving to track work, however if there is lots of short, stop start journeys then a 5w-40 may be a good choice.

Brand wise, we rate Silkolene and Motul as tops.

Cheers

Guy.

laz11

517 posts

130 months

[news] 
Wednesday 25th January 2006 quote quote all
opieoilman said:
laz11 said:
Hi I have a standard 92 4.3 pre cat griffith, appprox 50,000 miles.....use in all weathers regularly, with some short drives unfortunately as well.


Hi,

For your Griff you have a choice, most common is for a good 10w-50 full synthetic for all year round use, this will cover everything from day to day driving to track work, however if there is lots of short, stop start journeys then a 5w-40 may be a good choice.

Brand wise, we rate Silkolene and Motul as tops.

Cheers

Guy.



Great, thanks for the response
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