jeffsy said:

Hi heres one for you....My Griff 500 (1998, 40,000 miles)has ben running on Mobil 1 15/50 however it uss an inordinate amount of oil. It runs at least at 1% (1 ltr oil to 100 ltrs fuel) if not more. We do about 1k miles per month road driving only. My garage is now conducting a trial with me where we are running 10/40 Mineral oil to see if this deglazes the rings. 3 things - What are the difference between synth, semi synth and mineral.. as mineral is sooo much cheaper? - What are your views on the trial, above? - I will drop you a separate email about the Griff Growl in August. Ta

Hi,

What does that oil consumtpion work out in mileage, say over 1,000 miles?

The Trial above may work, it makes sense but only if the engine was not run in correctly, ie used pao synthetic from the start instead of using a mineral based oil to run in with.

This explains the differences between deifferent base stocks,

All oils are comprised of basestocks and additives. Basestocks make up the majority of the finished product and represent between 75-95%.

Not all basestocks are derived from petroleum, in fact the better quality ones are synthetics made in laboratories by chemists specifically designed for the application for which they are intended.

Basestocks are classified in 5 Groups as follows:

Group I

These are derived from petroleum and are the least refined. These are used in a small amount of automotive oils where the applications are not demanding.

Group II

These are derived from petroleum and are mainly used in mineral automotive oils. Their performance is acceptable with regards to wear, thermal stability and oxidation stability but not so good at lower temperatures.

Group III

These are derived from petroleum but are the most refined of the mineral oil basestocks. They are not chemically engineered like synthetics but offer the highest level of performance of all the petroleum basestocks. They are also known as “hydrocracked” or “molecularly modified” basestocks.
They are usually labelled/marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and make up a very high percentage of the oils retailed today.

Group IV

These are polyalphaolefins known as PAO and are chemically manufactured rather than being dug out of the ground. These basestocks have excellent stability in both hot and cold temperatures and give superior protection due to their uniform molecules.

Group V

These special basestocks are also chemically engineered but are not PAO.
The main types used in automotive oils are diesters and polyolesters. Like the group IV basestocks they have uniform molecules and give superior performance and protection over petroleum basestocks. These special stocks are used in all aviation engines due to their stability and durability. Esters are also polar (electro statically attracted to metal surfaces) which has great benefits. They are usually blended with Group IV stocks rather than being used exclusively.

It is common practice for oil companies to blend different basestocks to achieve a certain specification, performance or cost. The blending of group IV and V produces lubricants with the best overall performance which cannot be matched by any of the petroleum basestock groups.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

If it's any consolation, mine drinks a similar amount. 32k miles 1996 Griff 500. It would probably drink more 0/40 but uses about the same as yours when filled with Mobil1 15/50 or Silkolene ProS 10/50. The latter is my preference by the way.

I've no doubt others get different results but all the mechanics that have worked on my car think the engine is a peach and have no concerns over the oil consumption. I would love it to drink less! I use it on track quite a bit so the oil consumption includes that.

Make: Ford
Model: Focus
Year: 2000
Engine type: 1.6 Zetec-S
Modifications: None
Driving style: Sedate

thanks in advance

Rob

my word that was a fast reply cheers!

tom's dad said:

I'm thinking of using Wynne's Hydraulic valve lifter treatment in my 4.3 Precat Griff. Have had occasional noise associated with sticking lifters recently. Is this something you would comment upon. The oil in the car is Valvoline 10W40 changed 3 months ago. I intend to renew the oil, add the treatment, run it for 1000 miles and renew the oil again with fully synthetic. Oil pressure is good, consumption low, mileage 58,000. Cheers Graham.

Graham,

I am not a fan of treatments and additives.

The lifters often get sticky when a mineral oil has been used for a long time, a build up of deposits if you like.

I would use a good 5w-40 full synthetic and go out and give it a real blast to try and get rid of it.

Cheers

Simon.

Pleasure Scott.

Tis good stuff the Pro S.

Cheers

Guy.

Make: TVR
Model: Cerbera
Year: 2001
Engine type: ajp
Modifications: None (yet)
Driving style: Mainly m/ways A/roads weekends
Any other information that may be relevant: Previous owner had been using 10w 40 I think it was branded "Triple R" whatever that is?
What recommendation are you looking for? Engine

current mileage 25k

cheers Howard

>> Edited by hjb15 on Tuesday 31st January 10:49

hjb15 said:

Make: TVR Model: Cerbera Year: 2001 Engine type: ajp Modifications: None (yet) Driving style: Mainly m/ways A/roads weekends Any other information that may be relevant: Previous owner had been using 10w 40 I think it was branded "Triple R" whatever that is? What recommendation are you looking for? Engine current mileage 25k cheers Howard >> Edited by hjb15 on Tuesday 31st January 10:49

Howard,

I would be using a 5w-40/0w-40 full synthetic for all year round use as recomended.

The 10w-40 is semi synthetic and is the cost option, not the quality one.

Cheers

Guy.

Graham,

For the engine, under race use as temps are low we would suggest an ester based racing oil such as the Silkolene Pro S or the Motul 300v as these are very temps and shear stable. They will be good for about 6-8 track hours without shearing down and are happy running up to 120degc.

I am going to chack on the gearbox to see if there is somethig that would be good for racing.

Cheers

Guy.