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jeffsy

3,414 posts

112 months

[news] 
Thursday 26th January 2006 quote quote all
Hi

heres one for you....My Griff 500 (1998, 40,000 miles)has ben running on Mobil 1 15/50 however it uss an inordinate amount of oil. It runs at least at 1% (1 ltr oil to 100 ltrs fuel) if not more. We do about 1k miles per month road driving only. My garage is now conducting a trial with me where we are running 10/40 Mineral oil to see if this deglazes the rings.

3 things

- What are the difference between synth, semi synth and mineral.. as mineral is sooo much cheaper?
- What are your views on the trial, above?
- I will drop you a separate email about the Griff Growl in August.

Ta

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,112 posts

121 months

[news] 
Thursday 26th January 2006 quote quote all
jeffsy said:
Hi

heres one for you....My Griff 500 (1998, 40,000 miles)has ben running on Mobil 1 15/50 however it uss an inordinate amount of oil. It runs at least at 1% (1 ltr oil to 100 ltrs fuel) if not more. We do about 1k miles per month road driving only. My garage is now conducting a trial with me where we are running 10/40 Mineral oil to see if this deglazes the rings.

3 things

- What are the difference between synth, semi synth and mineral.. as mineral is sooo much cheaper?
- What are your views on the trial, above?
- I will drop you a separate email about the Griff Growl in August.

Ta


Hi,

What does that oil consumtpion work out in mileage, say over 1,000 miles?

The Trial above may work, it makes sense but only if the engine was not run in correctly, ie used pao synthetic from the start instead of using a mineral based oil to run in with.

This explains the differences between deifferent base stocks,

All oils are comprised of basestocks and additives. Basestocks make up the majority of the finished product and represent between 75-95%.

Not all basestocks are derived from petroleum, in fact the better quality ones are synthetics made in laboratories by chemists specifically designed for the application for which they are intended.

Basestocks are classified in 5 Groups as follows:

Group I

These are derived from petroleum and are the least refined. These are used in a small amount of automotive oils where the applications are not demanding.

Group II

These are derived from petroleum and are mainly used in mineral automotive oils. Their performance is acceptable with regards to wear, thermal stability and oxidation stability but not so good at lower temperatures.

Group III

These are derived from petroleum but are the most refined of the mineral oil basestocks. They are not chemically engineered like synthetics but offer the highest level of performance of all the petroleum basestocks. They are also known as “hydrocracked” or “molecularly modified” basestocks.
They are usually labelled/marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and make up a very high percentage of the oils retailed today.

Group IV

These are polyalphaolefins known as PAO and are chemically manufactured rather than being dug out of the ground. These basestocks have excellent stability in both hot and cold temperatures and give superior protection due to their uniform molecules.

Group V

These special basestocks are also chemically engineered but are not PAO.
The main types used in automotive oils are diesters and polyolesters. Like the group IV basestocks they have uniform molecules and give superior performance and protection over petroleum basestocks. These special stocks are used in all aviation engines due to their stability and durability. Esters are also polar (electro statically attracted to metal surfaces) which has great benefits. They are usually blended with Group IV stocks rather than being used exclusively.

It is common practice for oil companies to blend different basestocks to achieve a certain specification, performance or cost. The blending of group IV and V produces lubricants with the best overall performance which cannot be matched by any of the petroleum basestock groups.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

jeffsy

3,414 posts

112 months

[news] 
Friday 27th January 2006 quote quote all
Cheers Guy

I cant comment on wheher it was run in correcty having only got it last may. In tems of litres per miles - and this is rough mind yuo - I would say

40 litres per tank = 250 miles
100 litres = 625 miles = 1 litre oil

Cheers

GarryM

1,112 posts

168 months

[news] 
Friday 27th January 2006 quote quote all
If it's any consolation, mine drinks a similar amount. 32k miles 1996 Griff 500. It would probably drink more 0/40 but uses about the same as yours when filled with Mobil1 15/50 or Silkolene ProS 10/50. The latter is my preference by the way.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,112 posts

121 months

[news] 
Friday 27th January 2006 quote quote all
This is very high oil consumption, usually its considered 1ltr to 1000 miles is acceptable.
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GarryM

1,112 posts

168 months

[news] 
Friday 27th January 2006 quote quote all
I've no doubt others get different results but all the mechanics that have worked on my car think the engine is a peach and have no concerns over the oil consumption. I would love it to drink less! I use it on track quite a bit so the oil consumption includes that.

Bomber Denton

8,726 posts

153 months

[news] 
Friday 27th January 2006 quote quote all
As most people say the five litre certainly drinks more oil than the four, I certainly noticed the difference.

grumpy rob

892 posts

110 months

[news] 
Friday 27th January 2006 quote quote all
Make: Ford
Model: Focus
Year: 2000
Engine type: 1.6 Zetec-S
Modifications: None
Driving style: Sedate

thanks in advance

Rob

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,112 posts

121 months

[news] 
Friday 27th January 2006 quote quote all
For the Zetec it's 5w-30.

If you want a better quality one, use an ACEA A3 or A5 approved one.

Cheers
Simon

grumpy rob

892 posts

110 months

[news] 
Friday 27th January 2006 quote quote all
my word that was a fast reply cheers!

tom's dad

268 posts

124 months

[news] 
Sunday 29th January 2006 quote quote all
I'm thinking of using Wynne's Hydraulic valve lifter treatment in my 4.3 Precat Griff. Have had occasional noise associated with sticking lifters recently. Is this something you would comment upon. The oil in the car is Valvoline 10W40 changed 3 months ago. I intend to renew the oil, add the treatment, run it for 1000 miles and renew the oil again with fully synthetic. Oil pressure is good, consumption low, mileage 58,000.

Cheers Graham.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,112 posts

121 months

[news] 
Sunday 29th January 2006 quote quote all
tom's dad said:
I'm thinking of using Wynne's Hydraulic valve lifter treatment in my 4.3 Precat Griff. Have had occasional noise associated with sticking lifters recently. Is this something you would comment upon. The oil in the car is Valvoline 10W40 changed 3 months ago. I intend to renew the oil, add the treatment, run it for 1000 miles and renew the oil again with fully synthetic. Oil pressure is good, consumption low, mileage 58,000.

Cheers Graham.


Graham,

I am not a fan of treatments and additives.

The lifters often get sticky when a mineral oil has been used for a long time, a build up of deposits if you like.

I would use a good 5w-40 full synthetic and go out and give it a real blast to try and get rid of it.

Cheers

Simon.

cerby4.5

1,643 posts

126 months

[news] 
Monday 30th January 2006 quote quote all
Hiya Opie!
Just got the Chimaera back from Austec on Saturday and all is well! (It was there to have the final tweaks done by Mark Adams on the rolling road)
It is running superbly on the new oil you recommended (Silkoline Pro S 10/50) and is 15-30 psi at idle and around the 50psi-mark under load!
Thanks for your advice and your prompt delivery of the oil!
Cerby4.5 (Scott)

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,112 posts

121 months

[news] 
Monday 30th January 2006 quote quote all
Pleasure Scott.

Tis good stuff the Pro S.

Cheers

Guy.

tom's dad

268 posts

124 months

[news] 
Monday 30th January 2006 quote quote all
Thanks Opie. It was the advise that I expected. I`ll put the Wynnes back on the shelf. A thought - Is their any reason why the second figure of the oil grade should not be as high as possible.

hjb15

424 posts

108 months

[news] 
Tuesday 31st January 2006 quote quote all
Make: TVR
Model: Cerbera
Year: 2001
Engine type: ajp
Modifications: None (yet)
Driving style: Mainly m/ways A/roads weekends
Any other information that may be relevant: Previous owner had been using 10w 40 I think it was branded "Triple R" whatever that is?
What recommendation are you looking for? Engine

current mileage 25k

cheers Howard

>> Edited by hjb15 on Tuesday 31st January 10:49

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,112 posts

121 months

[news] 
Tuesday 31st January 2006 quote quote all
tom's dad said:
Thanks Opie. It was the advise that I expected. I`ll put the Wynnes back on the shelf. A thought - Is their any reason why the second figure of the oil grade should not be as high as possible.


Yes the second figure indicates the viscosity of the oil at 100degc and using an oil too thick for the car can result in extra heat (friction) wear, lower rate of flow, bad mpg and less bhp at the wheels.

Cheers

Guy.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,112 posts

121 months

[news] 
Tuesday 31st January 2006 quote quote all
hjb15 said:
Make: TVR
Model: Cerbera
Year: 2001
Engine type: ajp
Modifications: None (yet)
Driving style: Mainly m/ways A/roads weekends
Any other information that may be relevant: Previous owner had been using 10w 40 I think it was branded "Triple R" whatever that is?
What recommendation are you looking for? Engine

current mileage 25k

cheers Howard

>> Edited by hjb15 on Tuesday 31st January 10:49


Howard,

I would be using a 5w-40/0w-40 full synthetic for all year round use as recomended.

The 10w-40 is semi synthetic and is the cost option, not the quality one.

Cheers

Guy.

Graham

15,260 posts

169 months

[news] 
Wednesday 1st February 2006 quote quote all
Make:TVR
Model: Tuscan Challenge Car
Engine : 4ltr Rover v8
Mods : Xbolted, lightened and balanced, je218 cam, manifolds, no cats, upgraded ecu
Driving style :- Racing
Other :- Oil temp kept to about 80, dry sump system, currently on morris's 20/40 mineral and changed frequently 3-4 outings.

Gearbox - t5 dog box, currently using castrol b737 ?

The series is part sponsored b royal purple so we may have to run that not sure yet so i'll look into the supply problems...

what would you recommend, for engine and box and what sort of frequency should I be changing it ( engine and box).

G

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,112 posts

121 months

[news] 
Wednesday 1st February 2006 quote quote all
Graham,

For the engine, under race use as temps are low we would suggest an ester based racing oil such as the Silkolene Pro S or the Motul 300v as these are very temps and shear stable. They will be good for about 6-8 track hours without shearing down and are happy running up to 120degc.

I am going to chack on the gearbox to see if there is somethig that would be good for racing.

Cheers

Guy.
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