Discussion
I'm pretty sure it will fit on a pre-serpentine. I've written an article on it that's in Sprint this month and he has over 30 installations out there.
I had a ride in his 450 Chim and it was the fastest and smoothest 450 I've been in, no driveline shunt from high gear/low speed roundabouts, very nice.
I had a ride in his 450 Chim and it was the fastest and smoothest 450 I've been in, no driveline shunt from high gear/low speed roundabouts, very nice.
V8 GRF said:
I'm pretty sure it will fit on a pre-serpentine. I've written an article on it that's in Sprint this month and he has over 30 installations out there.
I had a ride in his 450 Chim and it was the fastest and smoothest 450 I've been in, no driveline shunt from high gear/low speed roundabouts, very nice.
any thoughts on pre /post bhp figures? would be very interesting to see rolling road output before and after.I had a ride in his 450 Chim and it was the fastest and smoothest 450 I've been in, no driveline shunt from high gear/low speed roundabouts, very nice.
Shabs
He fitted one to a 500 Griff at the Growl, and although it would appear the car had some issues before the kit was fitted the before and after figures showed an increase of around 39bhp and 70lbs/ft torque! Typically though installations have shown 10-15bhp increases as a minimum with a corrsponding increase in torquethrough the range.
Done it got the T shirt.
As this is all guess work, you will want to be finding out your 'gains if any' (mine was 265BHP total from a 500 !!!!!!,) later on rolling road session, which will be at another location. This may resulted in immense dissapointment and you will be spending again to recover BHP/Torque which you only THOUGHT you had.
So why not do it in the correct order, don't adorn with a dogs dinner beforehand under the cover of darkness prior to a rolling road session, but take it initialy to someone like Paul at Austec Racing who at the speed of light remapped and added a TRUE 40 BHP on the(mods?)previosly RVT'd.
Now happily at 304 TRUE BHP and 320 Torque.
Some happy ebay punters are now adding TF bits to their go karts, I believe! Incidentally, Paul looked at the modded AFM and commented on the nice new box, the rest looked fairly standard.
As this is all guess work, you will want to be finding out your 'gains if any' (mine was 265BHP total from a 500 !!!!!!,) later on rolling road session, which will be at another location. This may resulted in immense dissapointment and you will be spending again to recover BHP/Torque which you only THOUGHT you had.
So why not do it in the correct order, don't adorn with a dogs dinner beforehand under the cover of darkness prior to a rolling road session, but take it initialy to someone like Paul at Austec Racing who at the speed of light remapped and added a TRUE 40 BHP on the(mods?)previosly RVT'd.
Now happily at 304 TRUE BHP and 320 Torque.
Some happy ebay punters are now adding TF bits to their go karts, I believe! Incidentally, Paul looked at the modded AFM and commented on the nice new box, the rest looked fairly standard.
retroptvr said:
Done it got the T shirt.
As this is all guess work, you will want to be finding out your 'gains if any' (mine was 265BHP total from a 500 !!!!!!,) later on rolling road session, which will be at another location. This may resulted in immense dissapointment and you will be spending again to recover BHP/Torque which you only THOUGHT you had.
So why not do it in the correct order, don't adorn with a dogs dinner beforehand under the cover of darkness prior to a rolling road session, but take it initialy to someone like Paul at Austec Racing who at the speed of light remapped and added a TRUE 40 BHP on the(mods?)previosly RVT'd.
Now happily at 304 TRUE BHP and 320 Torque.
Some happy ebay punters are now adding TF bits to their go karts, I believe! Incidentally, Paul looked at the modded AFM and commented on the nice new box, the rest looked fairly standard.
Sorry. Don't quite follow you there ... you've had it done and are disappointed?As this is all guess work, you will want to be finding out your 'gains if any' (mine was 265BHP total from a 500 !!!!!!,) later on rolling road session, which will be at another location. This may resulted in immense dissapointment and you will be spending again to recover BHP/Torque which you only THOUGHT you had.
So why not do it in the correct order, don't adorn with a dogs dinner beforehand under the cover of darkness prior to a rolling road session, but take it initialy to someone like Paul at Austec Racing who at the speed of light remapped and added a TRUE 40 BHP on the(mods?)previosly RVT'd.
Now happily at 304 TRUE BHP and 320 Torque.
Some happy ebay punters are now adding TF bits to their go karts, I believe! Incidentally, Paul looked at the modded AFM and commented on the nice new box, the rest looked fairly standard.
LordGrover said:
retroptvr said:
Done it got the T shirt.
As this is all guess work, you will want to be finding out your 'gains if any' (mine was 265BHP total from a 500 !!!!!!,) later on rolling road session, which will be at another location. This may resulted in immense dissapointment and you will be spending again to recover BHP/Torque which you only THOUGHT you had.
So why not do it in the correct order, don't adorn with a dogs dinner beforehand under the cover of darkness prior to a rolling road session, but take it initialy to someone like Paul at Austec Racing who at the speed of light remapped and added a TRUE 40 BHP on the(mods?)previosly RVT'd.
Now happily at 304 TRUE BHP and 320 Torque.
Some happy ebay punters are now adding TF bits to their go karts, I believe! Incidentally, Paul looked at the modded AFM and commented on the nice new box, the rest looked fairly standard.
Sorry. Don't quite follow you there ... you've had it done and are disappointed?As this is all guess work, you will want to be finding out your 'gains if any' (mine was 265BHP total from a 500 !!!!!!,) later on rolling road session, which will be at another location. This may resulted in immense dissapointment and you will be spending again to recover BHP/Torque which you only THOUGHT you had.
So why not do it in the correct order, don't adorn with a dogs dinner beforehand under the cover of darkness prior to a rolling road session, but take it initialy to someone like Paul at Austec Racing who at the speed of light remapped and added a TRUE 40 BHP on the(mods?)previosly RVT'd.
Now happily at 304 TRUE BHP and 320 Torque.
Some happy ebay punters are now adding TF bits to their go karts, I believe! Incidentally, Paul looked at the modded AFM and commented on the nice new box, the rest looked fairly standard.
The whole point of this mod is that it looks standard and the boring out etc is by nature invisible work.
surely if you want to clarify what what gains this kit is giving the car the sensible thing would be to before and after dyno test, if it only produced 256hp but you didn`t find that out until you went to tvr power then more fool you for paying for a mod and not proving its worth before you parted with your hard earned!!
strange thing is it needs to be mapped on a dyno anyway, so I guess you must be from another planet.
strange thing is it needs to be mapped on a dyno anyway, so I guess you must be from another planet.
It's probably worth a session before with someone else to ensure car is doing what it should otherwise the overall improvement after any mods is exaggerated. Who knows, you may even be happy with the improvements that brings for a while.
Its all a bit like fitting new and different shocks to replace shot units - difference is huge but much down to the originals being shot!
Note:- I don't know anything about TF and I'm not suggesting that there product is snake oil, merely, that to see stand alone gains, you need to work from a realistic and not malfunctioning benchmark.
Its all a bit like fitting new and different shocks to replace shot units - difference is huge but much down to the originals being shot!
Note:- I don't know anything about TF and I'm not suggesting that there product is snake oil, merely, that to see stand alone gains, you need to work from a realistic and not malfunctioning benchmark.
The before and after scenario could and really should be applied to any upgrade so that one is working from a base figure to judge the value of improvements.
The intention of the Torqueflow system is to improve low speed driveability and reduce/eliminate driveline shunt and from my experience and the reports of others it does so and as a result I guess that it must increase torque and BHP. It's 'raison d'etra' is is not purely power and that's why Eann is modest in his power increase claims but it surely makes a good statrting point for further modifications?
The intention of the Torqueflow system is to improve low speed driveability and reduce/eliminate driveline shunt and from my experience and the reports of others it does so and as a result I guess that it must increase torque and BHP. It's 'raison d'etra' is is not purely power and that's why Eann is modest in his power increase claims but it surely makes a good statrting point for further modifications?
www.torquev8.com said:
We manufacture a performance induction system upgrade, optimising air flow and fueling for V8 TVR Griffith and Chimaera.
We call the induction system "TorqueFlow" as it improves torque and power by improved fuelling and removing the restriction to air flow inherent in the original air intake system.
The induction system comprises a bespoke map able 72mm AFM, special 72mm plenum, 72mm smooth flow pipe and a new ecu chip.
Fully developed over the last 2 years it has proved itself on our development Chim 450 and customer cars.
The systems installed on our customers cars have proved to be totally reliable providing more power and improved drivability.
I'm having it. We call the induction system "TorqueFlow" as it improves torque and power by improved fuelling and removing the restriction to air flow inherent in the original air intake system.
The induction system comprises a bespoke map able 72mm AFM, special 72mm plenum, 72mm smooth flow pipe and a new ecu chip.
Fully developed over the last 2 years it has proved itself on our development Chim 450 and customer cars.
The systems installed on our customers cars have proved to be totally reliable providing more power and improved drivability.
V8 GRF said:
The before and after scenario could and really should be applied to any upgrade so that one is working from a base figure to judge the value of improvements.
That is where I was trying to get to David, but ensuring that the improvements from the upgrades were all that were being measured is subtly different.JimTC said:
I know this is an old thread but am keen to know how effective the TorqueFlow induction system is with removing the dreaded 'shunting', improving drive-ability, etc.. I have a Chim 500 with a Stealth cam. Many thanks.
Jim
I'd give Eann a call, he's a good guy and will advise you from a more informed basis as he may well have done an installation on a car with a Stealth.Jim
On a general note any car that has improved 'breathing' tends to be smoother to drive with reduced 'shunt' although you have a sightly 'edgier' cam than the standard fitment there.
http://www.torquev8.com/
V8 GRF said:
I'd give Eann a call, he's a good guy and will advise you from a more informed basis as he may well have done an installation on a car with a Stealth.
On a general note any car that has improved 'breathing' tends to be smoother to drive with reduced 'shunt' although you have a sightly 'edgier' cam than the standard fitment there.
http://www.torquev8.com/
Sounds like a good idea On a general note any car that has improved 'breathing' tends to be smoother to drive with reduced 'shunt' although you have a sightly 'edgier' cam than the standard fitment there.
http://www.torquev8.com/
Will give him a call.
The reason for the torqueflow reducing shunting (in some cases) is it completely changes the signal that the ECU gets for any given airflow as the hot wire element from the original AFM is removed and put in a big tube. This has the effect of causing turbulence at low airflows around the hot wire sensor, and this means you can get a double reading as the air passes over the sensor more than once. This causes the ECU to put in more fuel and the mixture becomes rich and this has the effect of reducing the shunting in some cases. The problem ECU is designed to keep the mixture constant with Lambda feedback, so the ECU will try to correct this error my moving the fuel trim value at idle , which in turn alters the entire fuelling up to 3500 rpm. To overcome this a different fuel chip is used, and then the whole airflow output is then tweaked with multiple variable resistors on the AFM PCB, a very manual and time consuming job, done on a car by car basis. The 14CUX is a tough old bird and can take a lot of abuse like this and the car will keep running OK at higher RPM. It is possible to skew the AFM output so far out that you can override the ECUs ability to correct the mixture, so the shunting "disappears" as you are now over fuelling. In the days before putting bigger AFM's on a car and remapping cost about £800, it may have been economic to go about things this way, but now it does not cost any thing like as much to remap the ECU or fit another AFM, so avoiding the need to use lots of variable resistors and hours driving up and down the road. To be honest Id be surprised if Eann is still selling the product, knowing what we do now about how the ECU and AFM works. Im afraid any talk of huge power increases can only be down to a car that running badly in the first place. A 3.9 will show no power increase with a bigger AFM- a 5ltr might see 10-15 BHP at max.
The 14CUX does have issues with the long duration of the Stealth cam due to its very fixed fuelling patterns- you would be better off with an aftermarket ECU when you can accurately set the mixture point for the shunting region to minimise it via mapping, and still keep the mixture as it should be at all other RPM bands so its also worth talking to Joolz at kits and classics.
The 14CUX does have issues with the long duration of the Stealth cam due to its very fixed fuelling patterns- you would be better off with an aftermarket ECU when you can accurately set the mixture point for the shunting region to minimise it via mapping, and still keep the mixture as it should be at all other RPM bands so its also worth talking to Joolz at kits and classics.
Edited by blitzracing on Tuesday 27th January 12:53
Edited by blitzracing on Tuesday 27th January 12:58
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