Worst outrigger ever? + bodylift pics

[TVR_owner]

dbv8 said:

TVR_owner said:

If lesser utilised parts of my chassis looked that bad, I would be wondering about part of the chassis that does the bulk of the work..

Corrosion happens from both sides.

Most is solid. The outriggers are completely shot.
The rear suspension arms and antiroll bar points need attention tho

Are you sure?? Is it not worth getting some random wall thickness checks done - do you know any NDT guys??

[dbv8]

TVR_owner said:

dbv8 said:

TVR_owner said:

If lesser utilised parts of my chassis looked that bad, I would be wondering about part of the chassis that does the bulk of the work..

Corrosion happens from both sides.

Most is solid. The outriggers are completely shot.
The rear suspension arms and antiroll bar points need attention tho

Are you sure?? Is it not worth getting some random wall thickness checks done - do you know any NDT guys??

Im pretty sure its not all bad.
The chassis is getting stripped and is going to an engineering workshop for the repairs and will be checked properly.
It will come back stronger than when it was built originally

[adam quantrill]

Actually those outriggers looked quite solid. I took the sill covers off an old 350i of mine in '95 and all that was left was two lines of rust....

[dbv8]

This weekends progress,
looking at its worst i think... onwards and upwards...

[HRG]

TVR_owner said:

dbv8 said:

TVR_owner said:

If lesser utilised parts of my chassis looked that bad, I would be wondering about part of the chassis that does the bulk of the work..

Corrosion happens from both sides.

Most is solid. The outriggers are completely shot.
The rear suspension arms and antiroll bar points need attention tho

Are you sure?? Is it not worth getting some random wall thickness checks done - do you know any NDT guys??[/quoteThey NEVER rust from the inside out as they're sealed.

[dbv8]

HRG said:

TVR_owner said:

dbv8 said:

TVR_owner said:

If lesser utilised parts of my chassis looked that bad, I would be wondering about part of the chassis that does the bulk of the work..

Corrosion happens from both sides.

Most is solid. The outriggers are completely shot.
The rear suspension arms and antiroll bar points need attention tho

Are you sure?? Is it not worth getting some random wall thickness checks done - do you know any NDT guys??

They NEVER rust from the inside out as they're sealed.

What about water ingress due to porous welds?
Its another theory

[GAjon]

dbv8 said:

HRG said:

TVR_owner said:

dbv8 said:

TVR_owner said:

If lesser utilised parts of my chassis looked that bad, I would be wondering about part of the chassis that does the bulk of the work..

Corrosion happens from both sides.

Most is solid. The outriggers are completely shot.
The rear suspension arms and antiroll bar points need attention tho

Are you sure?? Is it not worth getting some random wall thickness checks done - do you know any NDT guys??

They NEVER rust from the inside out as they're sealed.

What about water ingress due to porous welds?
Its another theory

Its not a theory, I have experience of the inside of chassis tubes corroding, some of the welding and weld preparation permits water and air ingress.
I would suggest to the OP to have the chassis shot blasted prior to any rectification work and then inspected especially around the welds.

Edit, missed the fact you are the OP and I,ve already posted this on the TVR site.

John

Edited by GAjon on Monday 7th December 12:57

[jammy_basturd]

HRG said:

TVR_owner said:

dbv8 said:

TVR_owner said:

If lesser utilised parts of my chassis looked that bad, I would be wondering about part of the chassis that does the bulk of the work..

Corrosion happens from both sides.

Most is solid. The outriggers are completely shot.
The rear suspension arms and antiroll bar points need attention tho

Are you sure?? Is it not worth getting some random wall thickness checks done - do you know any NDT guys??

They NEVER rust from the inside out as they're sealed.

Up until they point that you get a rusty outrigger and it holes the chassis...

[HRG]

jammy_basturd said:

HRG said:

TVR_owner said:

dbv8 said:

TVR_owner said:

If lesser utilised parts of my chassis looked that bad, I would be wondering about part of the chassis that does the bulk of the work..

Corrosion happens from both sides.

Most is solid. The outriggers are completely shot.
The rear suspension arms and antiroll bar points need attention tho

Are you sure?? Is it not worth getting some random wall thickness checks done - do you know any NDT guys??

They NEVER rust from the inside out as they're sealed.

Up until they point that you get a rusty outrigger and it holes the chassis...

Which would, according to my logic, be from the outside in

[jammy_basturd]

I guess it depends on how you read it. A hole in the outrigger may allow moisture into the chassis and rust other parts from the inside out. However you could look at it from a complete chassis level, that the rust began on the outside.

[Kitchski]

Just finished welding mine back up, and there was certainly no rust from the inside on the main part of the tubing. The only traces of rot inside were along the weld joins where the corner body bracing plates were seam welded in. Speaking to the guy who did the welding on mine, he reckoned it was some sort of reaction that causes the metal on welded pieces to change properties or something...he gave a technical name but I'm not quite as advanced on metals as he is!

Anyway it certainly rang true. The only sections of mine that had rot inside were along welds. Luckily they were all cut out and replaced

[dbv8]

Talk about taking a while

Ive just had word my chassis is finished and will be completely shotblast on Monday ready for me to paint with the POR15.
My new job has been put back a week so i have a few days i can dedicate to start putting it all back together.
I will post some pics, maybe Tuesday

[VARLEYHYD]

dbv8 said:

Talk about taking a while

Ive just had word my chassis is finished and will be completely shotblast on Monday ready for me to paint with the POR15.
My new job has been put back a week so i have a few days i can dedicate to start putting it all back together.
I will post some pics, maybe Tuesday

Not read the full thread, but why not get it blasted and powder coated in one go.

If done correctly you will not look back.

PZ770 Polyester Zinc primer followed by appropriate top colour?


G

[dbv8]

Powdercoating would be nice but i have nowhere local that will do it.
Also as im off work next week i really need to use the time to make progress on my car as i hope to be racing at the latest on May 2nd but also want to get the car to Chatsworth.
I do have faith in the POR15 however and the chassis should be fully painted by Wednesday so i can start bolting parts back on.

[VARLEYHYD]

dbv8 said:

Powdercoating would be nice but i have nowhere local that will do it.
Also as im off work next week i really need to use the time to make progress on my car as i hope to be racing at the latest on May 2nd but also want to get the car to Chatsworth.
I do have faith in the POR15 however and the chassis should be fully painted by Wednesday so i can start bolting parts back on.

G

[FlipFlopGriff]

dbv8 said:

Powdercoating would be nice but i have nowhere local that will do it.
Also as im off work next week i really need to use the time to make progress on my car as i hope to be racing at the latest on May 2nd but also want to get the car to Chatsworth.
I do have faith in the POR15 however and the chassis should be fully painted by Wednesday so i can start bolting parts back on.

Derek,
It takes a long time to dry so bear that in mind.
FFG

[dbv8]

FlipFlopGriff said:

Derek,
It takes a long time to dry so bear that in mind.
FFG

Hopefully it will be dry by Chatsworth

I intend to leave a heater on in the garage so that should cut the cure time a bit.

[CHGRIFF]

The outriggers are not cosmetic, and support the outmost body mounting points. As mentioned previously, they offer little towards the overall strength and torsional stiffness of the chassis, thats why when driving with rotten parts your not aware of any handlind differences. Even when replaced with new parts there will be little improvement to vehicle handling. They are an essential item if you want to have a better chance of surviving a high speed front quarter impact. On impact the wishbones give and the wheels are pushed rearwards towards and into the front outrigger lateral support tubes. These are very substantial, absorbe most of the energy and prevent the wheel from penetrating the GRP bodywork which would otherwise increase the risk of injury to the occupents, especially in the foot area. These are the worst I have seen, being non existent. It is essential the outriggers are in good condition for reasons explained and replaced asap when severe corrosion is apparent. Dont find out the outriggers were in poor shape after the accident. AS fordriving without them, thats a definate NO.

[dbv8]

CHGRIFF said:

The outriggers are not cosmetic, and support the outmost body mounting points. As mentioned previously, they offer little towards the overall strength and torsional stiffness of the chassis, thats why when driving with rotten parts your not aware of any handlind differences. Even when replaced with new parts there will be little improvement to vehicle handling. They are an essential item if you want to have a better chance of surviving a high speed front quarter impact. On impact the wishbones give and the wheels are pushed rearwards towards and into the front outrigger lateral support tubes. These are very substantial, absorbe most of the energy and prevent the wheel from penetrating the GRP bodywork which would otherwise increase the risk of injury to the occupents, especially in the foot area. These are the worst I have seen, being non existent. It is essential the outriggers are in good condition for reasons explained and replaced asap when severe corrosion is apparent. Dont find out the outriggers were in poor shape after the accident. AS fordriving without them, thats a definate NO.

I never realised how bad they were until i did the body lift. The triangulated sections to the main chassis were fairly sound but with the outside tubes rotted through did make the car unsafe in the event of an accident.
We should carefully inspect such things more thoroughly and regularly than the MoT

[Barreti]

Have a quick read of the label on the POR15 tin dbv8 - I'm sure you only have a window of something like 8-16hrs when you can apply the 2nd coat if you are putting on 2 coats.
It caught me out a bit when I did mine and made for a very long day.