Discussion
Hi,
I'm in the market for a TR6 and have been on the TR register looking at the buying guides. Are there any owners on here who can give me a further insight on what to look for, availability of spares, spare prices, long term ownership woes, etc?
Looking at the prices being asked, how fixed and from are these? They've certainly moved up from when I first looked a couple of years ago and there are a lot more at dealers cars on the market than private. Is there a bit of a bubble forming??
I'm in the market for a TR6 and have been on the TR register looking at the buying guides. Are there any owners on here who can give me a further insight on what to look for, availability of spares, spare prices, long term ownership woes, etc?
Looking at the prices being asked, how fixed and from are these? They've certainly moved up from when I first looked a couple of years ago and there are a lot more at dealers cars on the market than private. Is there a bit of a bubble forming??
If you have been to the TRR site, then you will have seen the Local Group page (http://www.tr-register.co.uk/groups)
Definitely:
Join TRR, support the help they offer
Go along to a local Group meeting, and/or contact the Secretary of the Group. You will see their cars, get advice on the spot and in person about the points to look out for when inspecting. You might even hear of a Member's car for sale!
Good Luck
John
Definitely:
Join TRR, support the help they offer
Go along to a local Group meeting, and/or contact the Secretary of the Group. You will see their cars, get advice on the spot and in person about the points to look out for when inspecting. You might even hear of a Member's car for sale!
Good Luck
John
In a word - Rust.
I've owned mine since 2003 - 1975 125bhp version; fuel injection & converted for unleaded. Spares prices are not too bad, engine has been very reliable and I find it a very comfortable long distance mile eating machine which can transform itself into a growling monster on the twisty bits. I love it. Sadly rust now means it is having a rather lengthy and extensive rebuild.
Rust is the killer, get any prospective purchase up on the ramps and prod everywhere and then prod again. Engines and mechanicals can all be fixed and there are a whole wraft of specialists out there if you are not (as I am not) so handy with the spanners. Aside from the usual mechnical checks for things like head gasket failure or siezed water pump then I'd say buy one that's obviously been looked after. Most owners nowadays are enthusiasts and will more than likely have a whole heap of paperwork and history with the car showing how it has been cared for.
If you can, spend the most you can on the best example.
I've owned mine since 2003 - 1975 125bhp version; fuel injection & converted for unleaded. Spares prices are not too bad, engine has been very reliable and I find it a very comfortable long distance mile eating machine which can transform itself into a growling monster on the twisty bits. I love it. Sadly rust now means it is having a rather lengthy and extensive rebuild.
Rust is the killer, get any prospective purchase up on the ramps and prod everywhere and then prod again. Engines and mechanicals can all be fixed and there are a whole wraft of specialists out there if you are not (as I am not) so handy with the spanners. Aside from the usual mechnical checks for things like head gasket failure or siezed water pump then I'd say buy one that's obviously been looked after. Most owners nowadays are enthusiasts and will more than likely have a whole heap of paperwork and history with the car showing how it has been cared for.
If you can, spend the most you can on the best example.
I'm sure there's a quite useful book called Buying and restoring TR6, or something similar.
IMO there are two approaches with buying a TR6. Either buy one that is already solid (and pay a penalty for originality or someone else's restoration pain) or buy a wreck on the basis that you're doing a complete restoration. If you buy an inbetweener you'll be forever chasing rust, and you'll never really know what state the chassis is in where you can't see it.
Chassis
The chassis is not rustproof – it's just made of heavier steel than the bodywork so it rusts out more slowly than the rest of the car, which is why so many have survived. Do not assume that the chassis is in good condition just because the bodywork looks OK. They also get bent, outriggers get poorly repaired, and the diff mounts pull out. Get an expert to look at it if you can.
Body
Sills. B-Post rears. Floors. Bootlids. Bonnets. Scuttle. Inner wings. Outer wings. It's just everywhere but those places in particular.
Engine
Thrust washers fall out, unless they've been pinned in place. But generally tough. Never had a problem with mine.
Gear box
Never reliable when new, and they're not getting any younger. On my third and about to put in a fourth.
Diff.
Oil seals go hard, your oil comes out and the diff blows up M5 stranding you and the now ex-girlfriend at Gordano servies until two in the morning.
Fuel injection
Actually the bit with the worst reputation is the easiest to fix. Put in a decent Bosch fuel pump conversion, make sure all the air pipes are airtight, get a correctly calibrated metering unit and job done. The original Lucas pump, in a cruel twist, mostly packs up on hot sunny days.
My first TR6 thirty years ago (that is scary) was the best I could afford, but I'd only just graduated and couldn't afford much. It was nightmare – rust everywhere, literally everything broke. But once I (or, rather, my Dad) fixed all that stuff I loved driving it, even on standard suspension. I flogged it to buy a house but as soon as I could got another one and this time started with a total wreck, took it right down to individual components, uprated everything possible to uprate, without going for a full race spec. It's brilliant and I can't really think of another classic of its ilk I'd rather have, including things like E-Types etc. A really well sorted TR6 is a joy to drive.
IMO there are two approaches with buying a TR6. Either buy one that is already solid (and pay a penalty for originality or someone else's restoration pain) or buy a wreck on the basis that you're doing a complete restoration. If you buy an inbetweener you'll be forever chasing rust, and you'll never really know what state the chassis is in where you can't see it.
Chassis
The chassis is not rustproof – it's just made of heavier steel than the bodywork so it rusts out more slowly than the rest of the car, which is why so many have survived. Do not assume that the chassis is in good condition just because the bodywork looks OK. They also get bent, outriggers get poorly repaired, and the diff mounts pull out. Get an expert to look at it if you can.
Body
Sills. B-Post rears. Floors. Bootlids. Bonnets. Scuttle. Inner wings. Outer wings. It's just everywhere but those places in particular.
Engine
Thrust washers fall out, unless they've been pinned in place. But generally tough. Never had a problem with mine.
Gear box
Never reliable when new, and they're not getting any younger. On my third and about to put in a fourth.
Diff.
Oil seals go hard, your oil comes out and the diff blows up M5 stranding you and the now ex-girlfriend at Gordano servies until two in the morning.
Fuel injection
Actually the bit with the worst reputation is the easiest to fix. Put in a decent Bosch fuel pump conversion, make sure all the air pipes are airtight, get a correctly calibrated metering unit and job done. The original Lucas pump, in a cruel twist, mostly packs up on hot sunny days.
My first TR6 thirty years ago (that is scary) was the best I could afford, but I'd only just graduated and couldn't afford much. It was nightmare – rust everywhere, literally everything broke. But once I (or, rather, my Dad) fixed all that stuff I loved driving it, even on standard suspension. I flogged it to buy a house but as soon as I could got another one and this time started with a total wreck, took it right down to individual components, uprated everything possible to uprate, without going for a full race spec. It's brilliant and I can't really think of another classic of its ilk I'd rather have, including things like E-Types etc. A really well sorted TR6 is a joy to drive.
Thanks Yertis, that's an excellent write up.
I was considering a restoration project but given the cost involved think I will go for one that's already had the work done. As long as I can tinker with bits and even do a little bodywork when needed I'll be happy.
I'm going along to the local Triumph car club meet next week so will be asking them a thousand questions.
I was considering a restoration project but given the cost involved think I will go for one that's already had the work done. As long as I can tinker with bits and even do a little bodywork when needed I'll be happy.
I'm going along to the local Triumph car club meet next week so will be asking them a thousand questions.
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