using the bleed screw as the main feed on brembo?

using the bleed screw as the main feed on brembo?

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Megaflow

9,405 posts

225 months

Friday 18th July 2014
quotequote all
Close. The problem is the fluid is heavier than air, so as you fill with fluid it fills from the bottom, even if the feed is at the top.

When both transfer holes are submerged any air will stay in the side it is in, if there is air on the feed side, it now can't get out because there is no bleed nipple.

Edit: If your master cylinder was too small the pedal would still pump up solid. The logic behind pump up is you push the pads into contact with the disk, and compress all the system. You can still do this with a small master cylinder, it just takes more pumps of the pedal.

Edited by Megaflow on Friday 18th July 08:33

andyiley

9,217 posts

152 months

Friday 18th July 2014
quotequote all
^^^^ What he said.

Unfortunately your theory on master cylinder is wrong.

FWIW. I have an e36 which I use as a track day car, braking mods have been done to the tune of dual opposed piston AP calipers on the front & single opposed piston AP calipers on the rear and still use the standard master cylinder/servo.

Sorry but several people on here predicted this would be your issue, and I think you need to find another way round your problem rather than use the top of the caliper for the inlet.

the first place to start for me would be to get a full internal drawing of the caliper from the manufacturer.

hman

7,487 posts

194 months

Friday 18th July 2014
quotequote all
going to state the obvious here but why not just go back to normal springs?

kev b

2,715 posts

166 months

Friday 18th July 2014
quotequote all
The calipers don't have to be attached to be bled, remove them,turn them upside down or whatever and bleed them, then re fit.

andyiley

9,217 posts

152 months

Friday 18th July 2014
quotequote all
By which time air will have been re-introduced!

b2hbm

1,291 posts

222 months

Saturday 19th July 2014
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kev b said:
The calipers don't have to be attached to be bled, remove them,turn them upside down or whatever and bleed them, then re fit.
That's what I've had to do when fitting some rear discs to my Europa. A faff but not difficult - I used a spacer to keep the pads apart just in case I accidentally moved them, then just rotated the caliper about as it was bleeding. Air didn't come out instantly, it took a few seconds but it did come out. From what's been said so far, I think that's the only way you're going to get this mod to work.

A new m/cyl will only reduce pedal travel if there's been a significant increase in volume required to move the pistons. (or your old one is knackered wink )

blank

3,456 posts

188 months

Sunday 20th July 2014
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You can get banjo bolts with integrated bleed nipples.

More commonly used on motorbikes, but should let you use the bleed nipple port as the inlet, and also bleed through it.

Don't know what size you need but like this:
http://www.motobrakes.co.uk/banjo-bolt-bleed-nippl..._store=motobrakesstore&_store=motobrakesstore&gclid=CjwKEAjw0a2eBRDVrabv9vWJ90USJACsKRDHz-nD7c7VQSL-LhXxwa9-kM6y7mELd8HwyFaXYwCUoRoCgOvw_wcB

Megaflow

9,405 posts

225 months

Sunday 20th July 2014
quotequote all
Good call. I did wonder if something like that was available. That should solve the OP's problem.