Honda Civic MB6 Brake pedal 'feedback' issue. Help please!

[Burbleboy]

The pedal is clear, as I always make sure (habit) of keeping the carpet away from pedals when im on the track and general driving.

I will disconnect the rear abs sensor plug tonight, on my tea break, and give it a run. That way i can rule the ABS out hopefully!

[Burbleboy]

Right! Disconnected ABS sensor (to disable all ABS) and problem goes away. This now points to an electrical/pump problem.

This was a surprise to me as there is usually a warning light on if ABS system is faulty. I'm now thinking it could be a faulty ABS pick up ring as that could throw a reading out but not be enough to bring on a light.

Will strip down each wheel in inspect the ABS ring...which means brake discs etc off yet again! Damn damn damn

Edited by Burbleboy on Thursday 20th November 00:27

[andyiley]

MintSprint said:

andyiley said:

"After the 1 second of pedal feedback, the brakes are normal."

Read again what I wrote. I'm not saying that the primary problem is run out. I'm saying that the primary problem is a sticking caliper, but that it manifests itself because of the small amount of run-out that exists with any disc.

If it's down to a sticky slider on the caliper, what's happening is that once you've pressed the brake pedal hard enough, for long enough (after that first second of initial pressure), it frees off and comes into consistent contact with the disc. The feedback is not the actual run-out that you're feeling... it's the pad 'grabbing' the disc cyclically as the high points rotate past.

The only other explanation is that the ABS is kicking in, but from the OP's description, I'm assuming that he can tell the difference between ABS actuating and another problem... and in any event, ABS doesn't actuate 'ever so slightly'.

Now, lets here your explanation for what you think is wrong, smart ass?

I still don't see how you can think the mechanical pad interface can be felt through the hydraulic braking system, and then through the pneumatic servo system into the mecchanical brake pedal.......

There are 3 completely disparate systems there & there is no way it would be felt like that.

[andyiley]

Sorry, just answered the earlier post & then read on, well done, in finding that.

I will now ask the obvious stupid question

Are you 100% sure the system has been bled properly?

the reason I ask the same question again is that ABS systems on some cars are notorious for being difficult to bleed but apparently looking OK.

Don't know if yours is in this category, but it could be worth doing again.

[Burbleboy]

The problem went away when I disconnected the abs though? If the brakes needed bled again then disconnecting the abs shouldn't mess with that.

To be honest, I'm upgrading from motul dot 4 to decent dot 5.1 and booked into Honda on 1st of December to get that replaced with their pressure bleeder! All for £35 so money well spent and piece of mind. I will also check sliders and abs rings to make sure I have covered everything.

[Mr2Mike]

andyiley said:

Sory once again I 100% refute ANY circumstances that a disc suffering with run out could cause any pulsing through the pedal.

The reason I asked whether the system had been fully bled was not bacause air can "cause pulsing in the system" but obviously because the OP mentioned the brake pedal "fighing back" when he was braking.

If you cast your mind back all that time ago when the OP originally posted that was when I suggested it, which is also when I asked him to be more descriptive. The reason I did this was because the description was a bit woolly & it could POSSIBLY have sounded like the compressible air was what was "pushing back" on the pedal.

Sorry to say it, but your posts show a fundamental lack of understanding. Air in the system causing the pedal to "push back" Warped or otherwise out of true discs can certainly be felt through the pedal as well.

OP, check the reluctor rings on the CV joints, they are prone to cracking on the MB6 (had to replace both of mine). This more usually causes low speed activation of the ABS, but it's worth a look anyway.

Does the ABS fault light actually work, i.e. does it light up and go out when you switch the ignition on?

[andyiley]

Mr2Mike said:

Air in the system causing the pedal to "push back"

If you look back in the thread at when I suggested it the description was rather wooly to put it mildly. So as the OP didn't mention whether it had been checked or done, I thought it best to find out.

I did nonly say & said in bold to stress it "POSSIBLY"

Edited by andyiley on Thursday 20th November 12:35

[Burbleboy]

Mr2Mike said:

Sorry to say it, but your posts show a fundamental lack of understanding. Air in the system causing the pedal to "push back" Warped or otherwise out of true discs can certainly be felt through the pedal as well.

OP, check the reluctor rings on the CV joints, they are prone to cracking on the MB6 (had to replace both of mine). This more usually causes low speed activation of the ABS, but it's worth a look anyway.

Does the ABS fault light actually work, i.e. does it light up and go out when you switch the ignition on?

Yes the abs bulb works mate. Came on when I disconnected it and always at start up ignition stage.

[Burbleboy]

For those who were interested, I have finally found the problem! I had gave up for a while as had too much on to properly look at my car and find out what the brake issue was.

It turns out that I had different tyre profiles fitted.

Front: 205/45/16
Rear: 205/50/16

This was causing the brake issue I described (badly I may add) and it is now rectified with new 205/45/16 tyres (free) and an I.O.U from the tyre company for another x2 tyres should and when I need them.
Turns out it was a catalogue of errors which led to wrong ones fitted. Apprentice/different people doing my tyres at busy times etc.

Thanks to all who have contributed to my thread. I appreciate it.