Alignment after Coilovers

Author
Discussion

RedSwede

Original Poster:

261 posts

193 months

Wednesday 25th March 2015
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I'm thinking of installing coilovers to my Mk7 GTI. It looks a relatively straightforward job, and such is the ability of other to screw almost anything up, I'd rather do it myself.

However, the advice is always: "get an alignment after installing coilovers". My question is: why?

The strut is rigidly clamped into the hub casting, so that can't be at a different angle. The top mount allows no adjustment, so that cant change. The only things that can change are the tiny movements of the bolts for the top mount through their holes into the strut tower, and the ball joint bolts through the LCA. These must have less than 0.5mm play looking at videos on Youtube.

Is this significant enough to need an alignment? How do these errors get aligned out if there is an error? Shifting of the whole subframe?

I just can't see any logic in getting a £50 tracking done. And I'd rather not have someone messing about with my subframe for £250 when it wont make any difference (and as per my belief in the ability of others to screw up, would probably make things worse...)

Thanks!

stevieturbo

17,229 posts

246 months

Wednesday 25th March 2015
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You vastly underestimate the differences there could be with parts, regardless of whether there is apparent adjustment or not.

Isnt really a lot of point buying/fitting coilovers to try and improve handling and then totally neglecting such a vital aspect that is overall alignment.

Anything could be bent, made wrong, damaged and that's assuming you just wish to remain within the manufacturers basic standards

But you're also right about fitting and alignment. Far too many doing both jobs are bloody clueless so you'd be better off just closing your eyes and adjusting them yourself !

Matt Seabrook

563 posts

250 months

Wednesday 25th March 2015
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Are you fitting coil overs to lower the suspension as well as stiffen?

RedSwede

Original Poster:

261 posts

193 months

Wednesday 25th March 2015
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I see the real benefits of being fully set up, I'm not trying to sidestep it if it has to be done. Just that I'd rather avoid the hassle of getting it done (right) if I can.

I think the best way is probably to take it to a decent tyre place, and get them to measure it only. I'll hope and pray that it is all good, and if it isn't then worry about how to get it right.

My question was more why I read people saying/implying that it *will* be massively out just from installing coilovers. I see how it could be, but if it was good to start with, I see that there is a fair chance too it will be ok.

I will probably lower it marginally - maybe 5-10mm Max, but I don't want it to look low. If the question was eluding to camber correction, I don't think there is facility to adjust this at the front (without top mounts). I think the rears can adjust, but would be fine with that lowering.

b2hbm

1,291 posts

221 months

Thursday 26th March 2015
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Hi,

From your description I don't see why it will be wildly out of alignment. In the past I've changed springs & dampers without doing anything else when replacing standard parts, so I'd say your logic is sound.

If you are lowering the suspension then it might be necessary to alter the tracking or camber but that depends on your suspension type & design. As extreme examples, if you have a live rear axle then moving it up or down relative to the car won't alter the angle of the wheels one jot, but if you have independent suspension you could find the negative camber at normal ride height altering. Yep, it would still be within the bounds of movement from the original suspension, but the static setting might change.

Is that enough to be critical ? I don't know, I'd probably do the job and see what it looked like afterwards.

Brian

Edited by b2hbm on Thursday 26th March 06:05

Matt Seabrook

563 posts

250 months

Thursday 26th March 2015
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If you change anything like wishbones, springs, dampers, bushes or ball joints I always check alignment. You would be amazed how much it can throw it out.

Take for instance a E46 BMW bogo 2.0 diesel. To get accurate wheel alignment you need to load the car with weight 68KG in each front seat 68KG on the back seat 21KG in the boot and a full tank of fuel. You then measure from the bottom edge of the wheels to the wheel arch if it is within 10mm of BMW specs then you are safe to proceed. If its not you should then correct the issue. If it is within 10mm of spec you then have to add or remove weight until it is within 2mm of spec. If its an M3 you have to get it within 1mm of spec.

So lowering your car by 5-10mm will make a difference even without the spec change of the parts. Remember 8' misalignment is 1mm on a 17" wheel. 10-15' misalignment would have your wheels 1 mile further apart every 350 miles. If you are just doing it for bling factor and aren't worried about tyre life don't worry about alignment. If you want your tyres to last and the car to handle well get it set up by someone that knows what they are doing.

Hope this is of some help.

Edited by Matt Seabrook on Thursday 26th March 13:34

ToothbrushMan

1,770 posts

124 months

Sunday 11th October 2015
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its most unlikely that your new coilovers will be set at the exact same ride height as your oem set up (thats part of the appeal i guess so that folk can adjust to whatever).

in view of this i would recommend you get an alignment for Toe as a minimum.

some coilovers allow camber adjustment whether you like it or not and so in those circs you will need the camber to be aligned first and then a Toe set up.

Caster is less of an issue as few cars or run of the mill coilovers allow any adjustment of this angle.

what i would do is fit the coilovers then over the course of a few weeks find your ideal of ride height and damping then go get an alignment. or if you have plenty of cash set it up get it aligned, if your not 100% happy re-set it up then pay for another alignment and so on but imho thats wasting money. car might not track true at first but at least the new kit will settle and you can feel if the car is rolling along as you like it to.

CarsOrBikes

1,135 posts

183 months

Tuesday 13th October 2015
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The toe will go out or possibly camber too, there may be bolts with integral eccentric washers at the front, the old golfs or other vw stuff used to have them at the hub carrier, even with the normal 10-15mm drop it will be out, probably handle poorly and wreck the tyres pretty quickly most likely. Geom checks aren't that expensive if at a good place.