Discussion
Ask the person who wrote it?
advisery comments are pretty much the realms of personal views, maybe the tester has seen the results of the non fail issue you have, maybe you left fag ash all over the int and he objected to having to sit in there, maybe he hasn't had any recently ?
maybe IF you told us the exact car (could be a know issue in the trade) and what was written maybe we could help out (sorry my crystal ball is in for a service at the mo)
advisery comments are pretty much the realms of personal views, maybe the tester has seen the results of the non fail issue you have, maybe you left fag ash all over the int and he objected to having to sit in there, maybe he hasn't had any recently ?
maybe IF you told us the exact car (could be a know issue in the trade) and what was written maybe we could help out (sorry my crystal ball is in for a service at the mo)
S0 What said:
Ask the person who wrote it?
advisery comments are pretty much the realms of personal views, maybe the tester has seen the results of the non fail issue you have, maybe you left fag ash all over the int and he objected to having to sit in there, maybe he hasn't had any recently ?
maybe IF you told us the exact car (could be a know issue in the trade) and what was written maybe we could help out (sorry my crystal ball is in for a service at the mo)
i have had an explanation from the garage which didn't make sense to me. advisery comments are pretty much the realms of personal views, maybe the tester has seen the results of the non fail issue you have, maybe you left fag ash all over the int and he objected to having to sit in there, maybe he hasn't had any recently ?
maybe IF you told us the exact car (could be a know issue in the trade) and what was written maybe we could help out (sorry my crystal ball is in for a service at the mo)
Not wishing to cloud the issue I am yet to publicise it.
It is not a known issue on the car concerned, indeed I cannot see that the make is relevant here as the central issue is essentially, what is the difference between an "ordinary" advisory, and a "strong advice" advisory. At least it is for me.
Would it for example make you think, oh I must get that done?
ETA: what was written was pretty much as I said. Front lower offside ball joint (strong advice)
Edited by IanA2 on Thursday 1st December 14:59
It probably means the tester couldn't fail it by the book but thought the wear could become a fail in the next few miles.
For example a perished ball joint boot may well be 'intact' and holding grease at the time of the test but be close enough to failing over the next speed bump that the tester wants to make you aware that its highly likely to fail well before the next MOT.
They may have formed the opinion that you only have your car looked at once a year and if, in my example, the boot split on your way home the ball joint could become excessively worn before the next MOT.
For example a perished ball joint boot may well be 'intact' and holding grease at the time of the test but be close enough to failing over the next speed bump that the tester wants to make you aware that its highly likely to fail well before the next MOT.
They may have formed the opinion that you only have your car looked at once a year and if, in my example, the boot split on your way home the ball joint could become excessively worn before the next MOT.
trickywoo said:
It probably means the tester couldn't fail it by the book but thought the wear could become a fail in the next few miles.
For example a perished ball joint boot may well be 'intact' and holding grease at the time of the test but be close enough to failing over the next speed bump that the tester wants to make you aware that its highly likely to fail well before the next MOT.
They may have formed the opinion that you only have your car looked at once a year and if, in my example, the boot split on your way home the ball joint could become excessively worn before the next MOT.
Thanks, pretty much what I thought, ie, should be done soon. Thing is, I bought the part and booked it in to my usual garage. They called me asking if I was sure I wanted it done as it didn't need doing (they too are MoT testers). Puzzled I got further advice from another garage. Nope, not required. Dealer principal could really explain the matter to me and got shirty indeed when I pointed out that two other garages had said it was not required.For example a perished ball joint boot may well be 'intact' and holding grease at the time of the test but be close enough to failing over the next speed bump that the tester wants to make you aware that its highly likely to fail well before the next MOT.
They may have formed the opinion that you only have your car looked at once a year and if, in my example, the boot split on your way home the ball joint could become excessively worn before the next MOT.
If you're dissatisfied with the items raised & believe they're just trying it on to create work you need to raise it with DVSA:
https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/problems-with-yo...
https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/problems-with-yo...
paintman said:
If you're dissatisfied with the items raised & believe they're just trying it on to create work you need to raise it with DVSA:
https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/problems-with-yo...
Thanks, I'm certainly considering this. https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/problems-with-yo...
TBH the tester should have explained the issue, especialy if it's a worry even if only in his head.
As to vehical specific, some makes of ball joint push in (with a press) differing makes push in further than others and can look incorrectly fitted as there will be more of less of the B/J showing through the lower arm mounting hole, some mercs for instance where i've fitted first line joints that stick through the mounting less than O/E ones and can seem to be not in far enough when viewed from above.
If the B/J goes in from below having it come out will be a worrying issue whereas a B/J that goes in from above cant fall out (if that makes sense ?) if both types secure from below, so the one in from above will be loose but not allow the hub to come away from the lower arm where as the type that insert from below will allow the hub to come away from the bottom arm, hense why knowing the vehical can make a differance
Niether would be a fail if there is no play or movement but could be seen as an issue and as a lot is down to the testers discretion you will get differing views form differant testers, not all testers are up to date on all cars and thier specific issues/weaknesses ect, not saying it's your issue BUT not giving us the full SP is tieing our hands slightly, it's already hard enough to diagnose an issue at a distance in words, making it harder doesn't help us or you
if you walked into my workshop and asked the question but refused to let me see the vehical i wouldn't even try to give you a firm answer that you could hold me too, not having a pop just explaining my point of view, i'd rather be correct than guess but yes the tester should have taken you aside and explained the particular issue he felt was there
He could simply be adding advisories cos the men from the ministry have told him he doen't do it enough, yes that happens, if a center has less fails or adviseries than the local av, they often pop in and have a word with the tester
I would also add a dealers MOT level of correctness is often (shall i say) rather enthusiastic, a dealer would repalce a B/J for a split cover whereas your ave mechanic would replace the cover, especialy if the cover isn't available as OE and only as an after market part, no dealer would fit an aftermarket part IME, i carry a range of B/J boots covers for this very reason but i'm not a dealer locked into only fitting O/E parts
Again nowt really to do with your actuall issue just my pennys worth on why what how ect
As to vehical specific, some makes of ball joint push in (with a press) differing makes push in further than others and can look incorrectly fitted as there will be more of less of the B/J showing through the lower arm mounting hole, some mercs for instance where i've fitted first line joints that stick through the mounting less than O/E ones and can seem to be not in far enough when viewed from above.
If the B/J goes in from below having it come out will be a worrying issue whereas a B/J that goes in from above cant fall out (if that makes sense ?) if both types secure from below, so the one in from above will be loose but not allow the hub to come away from the lower arm where as the type that insert from below will allow the hub to come away from the bottom arm, hense why knowing the vehical can make a differance
Niether would be a fail if there is no play or movement but could be seen as an issue and as a lot is down to the testers discretion you will get differing views form differant testers, not all testers are up to date on all cars and thier specific issues/weaknesses ect, not saying it's your issue BUT not giving us the full SP is tieing our hands slightly, it's already hard enough to diagnose an issue at a distance in words, making it harder doesn't help us or you
if you walked into my workshop and asked the question but refused to let me see the vehical i wouldn't even try to give you a firm answer that you could hold me too, not having a pop just explaining my point of view, i'd rather be correct than guess but yes the tester should have taken you aside and explained the particular issue he felt was there He could simply be adding advisories cos the men from the ministry have told him he doen't do it enough, yes that happens, if a center has less fails or adviseries than the local av, they often pop in and have a word with the tester
I would also add a dealers MOT level of correctness is often (shall i say) rather enthusiastic, a dealer would repalce a B/J for a split cover whereas your ave mechanic would replace the cover, especialy if the cover isn't available as OE and only as an after market part, no dealer would fit an aftermarket part IME, i carry a range of B/J boots covers for this very reason but i'm not a dealer locked into only fitting O/E parts
Again nowt really to do with your actuall issue just my pennys worth on why what how ect
Edited by S0 What on Thursday 1st December 22:51
S0 What said:
TBH the tester should have explained the issue, especialy if it's a worry even if only in his head.
As to vehical specific, some makes of ball joint push in (with a press) differing makes push in further than others and can look incorrectly fitted as there will be more of less of the B/J showing through the lower arm mounting hole, some mercs for instance where i've fitted first line joints that stick through the mounting less than O/E ones and can seem to be not in far enough when viewed from above.
If the B/J goes in from below having it come out will be a worrying issue whereas a B/J that goes in from above cant fall out (if that makes sense ?) if both types secure from below, so the one in from above will be loose but not allow the hub to come away from the lower arm where as the type that insert from below will allow the hub to come away from the bottom arm, hense why knowing the vehical can make a differance
Niether would be a fail if there is no play or movement but could be seen as an issue and as a lot is down to the testers discretion you will get differing views form differant testers, not all testers are up to date on all cars and thier specific issues/weaknesses ect, not saying it's your issue BUT not giving us the full SP is tieing our hands slightly, it's already hard enough to diagnose an issue at a distance in words, making it harder doesn't help us or you if you walked into my workshop and asked the question but refused to let me see the vehical i wouldn't even try to give you a firm answer that you could hold me too, not having a pop just explaining my point of view, i'd rather be correct than guess but yes the tester should have taken you aside and explained the particular issue he felt was there
He could simply be adding advisories ccs the men from the ministry have told him he doen't do it enough, yes that happens, if a center has less fails or adviseries than the local av, they often pop in and have a word with the tester
To recap:As to vehical specific, some makes of ball joint push in (with a press) differing makes push in further than others and can look incorrectly fitted as there will be more of less of the B/J showing through the lower arm mounting hole, some mercs for instance where i've fitted first line joints that stick through the mounting less than O/E ones and can seem to be not in far enough when viewed from above.
If the B/J goes in from below having it come out will be a worrying issue whereas a B/J that goes in from above cant fall out (if that makes sense ?) if both types secure from below, so the one in from above will be loose but not allow the hub to come away from the lower arm where as the type that insert from below will allow the hub to come away from the bottom arm, hense why knowing the vehical can make a differance
Niether would be a fail if there is no play or movement but could be seen as an issue and as a lot is down to the testers discretion you will get differing views form differant testers, not all testers are up to date on all cars and thier specific issues/weaknesses ect, not saying it's your issue BUT not giving us the full SP is tieing our hands slightly, it's already hard enough to diagnose an issue at a distance in words, making it harder doesn't help us or you
if you walked into my workshop and asked the question but refused to let me see the vehical i wouldn't even try to give you a firm answer that you could hold me too, not having a pop just explaining my point of view, i'd rather be correct than guess but yes the tester should have taken you aside and explained the particular issue he felt was there He could simply be adding advisories ccs the men from the ministry have told him he doen't do it enough, yes that happens, if a center has less fails or adviseries than the local av, they often pop in and have a word with the tester
1. MoT gives four advisories one of which is given as "strong advice"
2. Bought the part and took it to my specialist to have it fitted.
3. Specialist ask if I'm really sure I want it done as it is not required.
4. Take it to another garage who concur with specialist.
For the record I have not had it done. The reason I have not had it done is that two garages have said it does not need doing. Hope that's clear.
Easy, just ignore it and get on with more important things. Go somewhere else next year. People do strange things sometimes, maybe he was having a bad day. A couple of years ago I tried a new MOT place for my car. 3 door hatch with the rear seats always folded down because the dog goes everywhere in the back with me when I'm out. Looking over the guy's shoulder while he's typing the final report into the computer and he's just about to fail it because "rear seats don't latch up". WTF? I go out and try both sides. They click into place perfectly normally as usual. I make him watch. He shrugs and says "maybe you pushed them harder than I did". Idiot. So they'll never get any more of my money.
Mignon said:
Easy, just ignore it and get on with more important things. Go somewhere else next year. People do strange things sometimes, maybe he was having a bad day. A couple of years ago I tried a new MOT place for my car. 3 door hatch with the rear seats always folded down because the dog goes everywhere in the back with me when I'm out. Looking over the guy's shoulder while he's typing the final report into the computer and he's just about to fail it because "rear seats don't latch up". WTF? I go out and try both sides. They click into place perfectly normally as usual. I make him watch. He shrugs and says "maybe you pushed them harder than I did". Idiot. So they'll never get any more of my money.
First and last time with that place. Only used it for domestic reasons. Normally get my work and MoT's done at a garage I've been taking my cars to for years.It's not a big deal but I hate these kind of comedians; and, I've got a surplus bloody ball joint.
ETA: Not only did this lot charge the full amount (my usual garage charges£30), but the ball-joint cost another £40 so I'm sixty odd quid out. Great.
Edited by IanA2 on Friday 2nd December 12:13
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