Claying and then polishing...
Discussion
Hi all.
Starting to work on the Elise 111r this weekend. It's an '06 but new to me and I am keen to give the paint work a good going over. Friday afternoon I gave it a claying using a soft Bilt Hamber clay. I haven't used clay much before, but noticed when I came back to the car today that the paint work was very dull in places where I'd clayed. Is this normal please? I used liberal amounts of water as I went along.
I have a few products to use. Meguiars x scratch remover and then the 3 step polish system. I went over the dull patches with the scratch remover which seemed to help. I've not gone any further as my time ran out today.
So, unless you advise otherwise, I intend to keep addressing scratches where needed and then start with step 1 of the three. Any thoughts or advice on my process so far please?
Thanks!
Nick
Starting to work on the Elise 111r this weekend. It's an '06 but new to me and I am keen to give the paint work a good going over. Friday afternoon I gave it a claying using a soft Bilt Hamber clay. I haven't used clay much before, but noticed when I came back to the car today that the paint work was very dull in places where I'd clayed. Is this normal please? I used liberal amounts of water as I went along.
I have a few products to use. Meguiars x scratch remover and then the 3 step polish system. I went over the dull patches with the scratch remover which seemed to help. I've not gone any further as my time ran out today.
So, unless you advise otherwise, I intend to keep addressing scratches where needed and then start with step 1 of the three. Any thoughts or advice on my process so far please?
Thanks!
Nick
nick_j007 said:
Hi all.
Starting to work on the Elise 111r this weekend. It's an '06 but new to me and I am keen to give the paint work a good going over. Friday afternoon I gave it a claying using a soft Bilt Hamber clay. I haven't used clay much before, but noticed when I came back to the car today that the paint work was very dull in places where I'd clayed. Is this normal please? I used liberal amounts of water as I went along.
I have a few products to use. Meguiars x scratch remover and then the 3 step polish system. I went over the dull patches with the scratch remover which seemed to help. I've not gone any further as my time ran out today.
So, unless you advise otherwise, I intend to keep addressing scratches where needed and then start with step 1 of the three. Any thoughts or advice on my process so far please?
Thanks!
Nick
You need to use a quick detailing spray or suchlike for lubing as you clay. Water is a no no.Starting to work on the Elise 111r this weekend. It's an '06 but new to me and I am keen to give the paint work a good going over. Friday afternoon I gave it a claying using a soft Bilt Hamber clay. I haven't used clay much before, but noticed when I came back to the car today that the paint work was very dull in places where I'd clayed. Is this normal please? I used liberal amounts of water as I went along.
I have a few products to use. Meguiars x scratch remover and then the 3 step polish system. I went over the dull patches with the scratch remover which seemed to help. I've not gone any further as my time ran out today.
So, unless you advise otherwise, I intend to keep addressing scratches where needed and then start with step 1 of the three. Any thoughts or advice on my process so far please?
Thanks!
Nick
Using plenty of lube is key. You'll need to do it again.
Check this youtube.
http://youtu.be/yfEfLGL59GI
Some clays do claim to be safe to use with water alone, BH may be one of them, though whether the OP is using one of these is another matter. However either through techinque or not using lub if required, the paintwork has marred and will need polishing to remove this. Easier with an orbital or DA polisher, but can be done by hand, just that it's hard work.
You'll need to work in small areas and start off with the finest polish you have, don't dive in with the scratch remover as it might be more harsh than you need. If it doesn't touch the marring, move up to a polish with more cut. You'll probably have to refine the finish by using the finer polish afterwards, so try to avoid the 'rocks in a bottle' stuff unless absolutely neccesary to save you some time/effort going over and over the same area.
I'm going to work round my 'new' Z3 with clay, polish and then wax, thankfully I have an orbital polisher as BMW paint is very hard...
You'll need to work in small areas and start off with the finest polish you have, don't dive in with the scratch remover as it might be more harsh than you need. If it doesn't touch the marring, move up to a polish with more cut. You'll probably have to refine the finish by using the finer polish afterwards, so try to avoid the 'rocks in a bottle' stuff unless absolutely neccesary to save you some time/effort going over and over the same area.
I'm going to work round my 'new' Z3 with clay, polish and then wax, thankfully I have an orbital polisher as BMW paint is very hard...
Thank you all. Rather enjoyed myself in the sun/shade working on the car today
Pleased to say that stage one of the Meguiars three step system brought it all back very nicely. My shoulders are done in now! Steps 2 and 3 to go! It'll be stunning once done.
I have looked at an orbital polisher on other threads here on PH and am not averse to getting one. Presumably with the three step polish system I'm using I'd need at least 6 pads overall for the 'on' and 'off' of each stage?
My previous S2 Elise was silver and looking back it was so much better for hiding scratches than the new grey one I have. Would an orbital polisher be good for removing some fine scratches I'm seeing? Scratch removing paste is not doing it. Some are very fine and showing as white lines but with no real snag of the finger nail as I go against it.
Thanks. Nick
Pleased to say that stage one of the Meguiars three step system brought it all back very nicely. My shoulders are done in now! Steps 2 and 3 to go! It'll be stunning once done.
I have looked at an orbital polisher on other threads here on PH and am not averse to getting one. Presumably with the three step polish system I'm using I'd need at least 6 pads overall for the 'on' and 'off' of each stage?
My previous S2 Elise was silver and looking back it was so much better for hiding scratches than the new grey one I have. Would an orbital polisher be good for removing some fine scratches I'm seeing? Scratch removing paste is not doing it. Some are very fine and showing as white lines but with no real snag of the finger nail as I go against it.
Thanks. Nick
driver67 said:
nick_j007 said:
Hi all.
Starting to work on the Elise 111r this weekend. It's an '06 but new to me and I am keen to give the paint work a good going over. Friday afternoon I gave it a claying using a soft Bilt Hamber clay. I haven't used clay much before, but noticed when I came back to the car today that the paint work was very dull in places where I'd clayed. Is this normal please? I used liberal amounts of water as I went along.
I have a few products to use. Meguiars x scratch remover and then the 3 step polish system. I went over the dull patches with the scratch remover which seemed to help. I've not gone any further as my time ran out today.
So, unless you advise otherwise, I intend to keep addressing scratches where needed and then start with step 1 of the three. Any thoughts or advice on my process so far please?
Thanks!
Nick
Nope Bilt Hamber specifically state that water is OK for their clay.Starting to work on the Elise 111r this weekend. It's an '06 but new to me and I am keen to give the paint work a good going over. Friday afternoon I gave it a claying using a soft Bilt Hamber clay. I haven't used clay much before, but noticed when I came back to the car today that the paint work was very dull in places where I'd clayed. Is this normal please? I used liberal amounts of water as I went along.
I have a few products to use. Meguiars x scratch remover and then the 3 step polish system. I went over the dull patches with the scratch remover which seemed to help. I've not gone any further as my time ran out today.
So, unless you advise otherwise, I intend to keep addressing scratches where needed and then start with step 1 of the three. Any thoughts or advice on my process so far please?
Thanks!
Nick
http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cna...
You need to use a quick detailing spray or suchlike for lubing as you clay. Water is a no no.
Using plenty of lube is key. You'll need to do it again.
Check this youtube.
http://youtu.be/yfEfLGL59GI
nick_j007 said:
Scratch removing paste is not doing it. Some are very fine and showing as white lines but with no real snag of the finger nail as I go against it.
Thanks. Nick
Highly recommended :-Thanks. Nick
3 dabs of each on a single polishing pad. Start slow, speed up to medium, polish till clear. Slow down, stop.
Wipe with microfibre.
This from a professional detailing day I attended.
Amazing stuff. About £30 each.
snuffle said:
and the mop heads (sponges) are colour coded to the polish lids.
That's handy...I've bought some Menz ones and can't remember which one is which now; I'll have to look on the website to confirm which is which and I'll stick some masking tape on my garage wall and write the colour codes on them as my memory is awful. So I'll start to look for a DA kit that will be good for my Elise S2 primarily (hard paint?) but also to be able to deal with my Freelander 2 or OH's X3. I'm looking over this site http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-machines/c... should I be looking anywhere else too?
Thanks guys.
Nick
Thanks guys.
Nick
That's where I get my stuff from. I was looking to get the DAS6 Pro DA polisher as I have a single speed orbital which can be a bit lethal if you aren't careful (it can take the paint right off). They have some kits with the DAS6 Pro that include the polish and pads (which you'll need to buy anyway) for a better price...I guess you've seen them?
Another place is polished bliss. But if you have a look on 'detailing world' then you'll find various suppliers and thousands of opinions as to which polish, etc is best.
Another place is polished bliss. But if you have a look on 'detailing world' then you'll find various suppliers and thousands of opinions as to which polish, etc is best.
nick_j007 said:
So I'll start to look for a DA kit that will be good for my Elise S2 primarily (hard paint?) but also to be able to deal with my Freelander 2 or OH's X3. I'm looking over this site http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-machines/c... should I be looking anywhere else too?
Thanks guys.
Nick
I use this. Does a sterling job, all standard pads etc fit straight on. Thanks guys.
Nick
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Watt-Random-Orbital-...
£50.00
Very comfy to use as well.
driver67 said:
I use this. Does a sterling job, all standard pads etc fit straight on.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Watt-Random-Orbital-...
50.00
Very comfy to use as well.
am I right in reading the minimum rpm is 15,000? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Watt-Random-Orbital-...
50.00
Very comfy to use as well.
7even said:
driver67 said:
I use this. Does a sterling job, all standard pads etc fit straight on.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Watt-Random-Orbital-...
50.00
Very comfy to use as well.
am I right in reading the minimum rpm is 15,000? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Watt-Random-Orbital-...
50.00
Very comfy to use as well.
With a dual action, there is virtually zero chance of you damaging or burning your paint (unless your using the wrong bonnet / polish etc).
A rotary polisher, used badly, can very quickly leave you looking in a mirror
As per my previous post, slow - medium - slow, regardless of polisher.
HTH.
Dougie.
driver67 said:
It's a dual action polisher, quoted RPM's for these are much higher than a purely rotary polisher.
With a dual action, there is virtually zero chance of you damaging or burning your paint (unless your using the wrong bonnet / polish etc).
A rotary polisher, used badly, can very quickly leave you looking in a mirror
As per my previous post, slow - medium - slow, regardless of polisher.
HTH.
Dougie.
Seems mighty fast, but if you can control it well done, I have a kestral and at 2500- 6500 rpm max, I find I have to slow it down on some stages.With a dual action, there is virtually zero chance of you damaging or burning your paint (unless your using the wrong bonnet / polish etc).
A rotary polisher, used badly, can very quickly leave you looking in a mirror
As per my previous post, slow - medium - slow, regardless of polisher.
HTH.
Dougie.
Having said that 95% of the time I use a rotary, but its what im used too.
Edited by 7even on Friday 16th March 12:42
7even said:
Seems mighty fast, but if you can control it well done, I have a kestral and at 2500- 6500 rpm max, I find I have to slow it down on some stages.
Having said that 95% of the time I use a rotary, but its what im used too.
It's just a different terminology for dual action rotary. Having said that 95% of the time I use a rotary, but its what im used too.
Edited by 7even on Friday 16th March 12:42
e.g. Orbital stroke rate: 4.000 21.200 rpm
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