Paint Restoration Plan of Action
Discussion
For a while I have been thinking about restoring the paintwork on my TVR Chimaera. It's Starmist blue and has had a front end respray. The paint mainly suffers from swirl marks, I gather these are from previous washes through its life. I have done some research and committed to the majority of Autoglym products, as I have used these previously I feel comfortable with their name. My query is about my planned process and technique, as I wish to use a light abrasive, I don't want to get it wrong and I only have a small window of opportunity to get the job done this is also my first time taking on this type of task! So my plan is as follows...
1. Use pressure washer and two bucket method with grit catcher, microfibre 'shag pile' mit and autoglym car shampoo.
2. Dry the car with microfibre towel, laying it on and then removing, no wiping down.
3. Clay the surface, I have bought the Autoglym Clay Surface detailing kit.
4. Use a light abrasive to remove the swirl marks, I haven't decided on which product, but more than likely in keeping, it will be the Autoglym paint renovator. Any suggestions?
5. Polishing, I have the Autoglym ultra deep shine or the super resin polish, I will probably go with the ultra deep shine as the car is a dark blue. However, is the super resin polish actually a sealant? which brings me on to...
6. Sealing the fresh paintwork, I have no idea how to do this or what to use?
I have a buffer, but its a cheapy and I am worried about the pad which is fitted, its essentially a sponge with no grade markings. Is this OK to use or shall I stick with the perfect palm applicator, polishing cloths, microfibres and elbow grease?
1. Use pressure washer and two bucket method with grit catcher, microfibre 'shag pile' mit and autoglym car shampoo.
2. Dry the car with microfibre towel, laying it on and then removing, no wiping down.
3. Clay the surface, I have bought the Autoglym Clay Surface detailing kit.
4. Use a light abrasive to remove the swirl marks, I haven't decided on which product, but more than likely in keeping, it will be the Autoglym paint renovator. Any suggestions?
5. Polishing, I have the Autoglym ultra deep shine or the super resin polish, I will probably go with the ultra deep shine as the car is a dark blue. However, is the super resin polish actually a sealant? which brings me on to...
6. Sealing the fresh paintwork, I have no idea how to do this or what to use?
I have a buffer, but its a cheapy and I am worried about the pad which is fitted, its essentially a sponge with no grade markings. Is this OK to use or shall I stick with the perfect palm applicator, polishing cloths, microfibres and elbow grease?
Ive always liked super resin polish as its so easy to use, its recommended that their extra gloss protection is put on top of it or the high definition wax if your feeling flush!
It may be worth trying a test panel with the resin polish first before the paint renovator to see how much it actually does.
It may be worth trying a test panel with the resin polish first before the paint renovator to see how much it actually does.
I don't think you'll have much luck removing swirls by hand, you do need to use a machine. You say you've got one but you don't know how good it is ?
I'd suggest thinking about a dual action machine. These machines are pretty easy to use, its not impossible to do damage with one but you'd have to be doing something a bit daft.
I've just tided up my car for the first time in ages, I used the autogylm clay and then super resin polish (SRP) by machine and topped it off with wax. This was just what I happened to have laying around.
Notes:
Not sure if is the clay or if the clay I was using was old but it seemed to leave lots of marks. Next time I'll go back to the sonus stuff.
I was using a white chemical guys hex pad, I used a garden sprayer to lightly dust the panel with water and then polished it, the water just helps as SRP tends to dry off quite quickly. I prefer to use 3M ultrafina because its easier to work. Nevertheless the SRP has a very slight cut to it and also contains fillers, so very small scratches will disappear.
I've found using the machine much quicker than polishing by hand and the result is much better.
SRP is a polish, it won't seal. I'm not sure if the EGP does.
In any case I'd suggest you look at an inexpensive wax, use a soft wax to make easy work of it. I've got dodo juice purple haze which is really easy to use and leaves a nice glow to the car. £30 or so for a pot but it will literally last you years.
I washed & clayed, went round with the machine & SRP, put a coat of wax on, left it for a bit whilst i did some bits and pieces (windows/wheels etc) then put another coat of wax on. From where I'll just add a coat of wax on the next couple of washes, that should see it through to winter.
You can get a DAS PRO machine for ~ £100, see http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
There is a guide to using machines here: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
I'd suggest thinking about a dual action machine. These machines are pretty easy to use, its not impossible to do damage with one but you'd have to be doing something a bit daft.
I've just tided up my car for the first time in ages, I used the autogylm clay and then super resin polish (SRP) by machine and topped it off with wax. This was just what I happened to have laying around.
Notes:
Not sure if is the clay or if the clay I was using was old but it seemed to leave lots of marks. Next time I'll go back to the sonus stuff.
I was using a white chemical guys hex pad, I used a garden sprayer to lightly dust the panel with water and then polished it, the water just helps as SRP tends to dry off quite quickly. I prefer to use 3M ultrafina because its easier to work. Nevertheless the SRP has a very slight cut to it and also contains fillers, so very small scratches will disappear.
I've found using the machine much quicker than polishing by hand and the result is much better.
SRP is a polish, it won't seal. I'm not sure if the EGP does.
In any case I'd suggest you look at an inexpensive wax, use a soft wax to make easy work of it. I've got dodo juice purple haze which is really easy to use and leaves a nice glow to the car. £30 or so for a pot but it will literally last you years.
I washed & clayed, went round with the machine & SRP, put a coat of wax on, left it for a bit whilst i did some bits and pieces (windows/wheels etc) then put another coat of wax on. From where I'll just add a coat of wax on the next couple of washes, that should see it through to winter.
You can get a DAS PRO machine for ~ £100, see http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
There is a guide to using machines here: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
The guide was a helpful read, thank you!
From the guide I have gathered that the polisher I have is a rotary one, however it is not with me at the minute I just remember the box stating single orbit. I am pretty sure my father picked it up from a stall at Tatton park last year. I can't remember if it is branded. It seems the way to go is to do it gradually until happy and satisfied with results. I will have a good read up on the products I have and try small areas. I will invest in the wax as a top coat.
From the guide I have gathered that the polisher I have is a rotary one, however it is not with me at the minute I just remember the box stating single orbit. I am pretty sure my father picked it up from a stall at Tatton park last year. I can't remember if it is branded. It seems the way to go is to do it gradually until happy and satisfied with results. I will have a good read up on the products I have and try small areas. I will invest in the wax as a top coat.
DAKOTAstorm said:
4. Use a light abrasive to remove the swirl marks, I haven't decided on which product, but more than likely in keeping, it will be the Autoglym paint renovator. Any suggestions?
I have a buffer, but its a cheapy and I am worried about the pad which is fitted, its essentially a sponge with no grade markings. Is this OK to use or shall I stick with the perfect palm applicator, polishing cloths, microfibres and elbow grease?
The GTechniq pSystem ProKit could be well worth a look. The P1 polish is capable of removing a lot of marring quickly, yet is very beginner friendly. Even with a rotary, you'd have to try very hard to burn through the paint as this video demonstrates.I have a buffer, but its a cheapy and I am worried about the pad which is fitted, its essentially a sponge with no grade markings. Is this OK to use or shall I stick with the perfect palm applicator, polishing cloths, microfibres and elbow grease?
The uniform nano particles means that you don't have to worry about breaking the abrasives down unlike many polishes - one less thing to have to concentrate on.
The P1 polish can take the place of multiple grades of polishes, so there's less confusion over matching polish grade to pad grade.
It's water based, so more easily washed off so you can see the condition of the paint without worry over whether oily fillers from the polish are hiding marring, only to be revealed later after several washes.
It's also very effective by hand, so intricate areas that you don't feel confident tackling with the rotary can still be dealt with.
The kit comes with the 6.5" 3 pad set, so there's no worries over the quality of your existing pad.
The P2 polish is great at bringing the paint up to a quality lustre and for periodic maintenance.
At £60, it's very good value imho.
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