Restoring faded red paintwork with a PC polisher

Restoring faded red paintwork with a PC polisher

Author
Discussion

Phunk

Original Poster:

1,975 posts

171 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2014
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My 2CV is starting to look a little pink.

I've got a PC polisher, what pads and polish are best to restore it?

Thanks

jaf01uk

1,943 posts

196 months

Friday 5th September 2014
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Your best bet would be to head over to Detailing World website, but be prepared to be baffled by the choice of stuff available, what I would advise through personal experience is the Meguiars microfibre polishing system which consists of cutting and polishing pads and 2 types of product, 1 for cutting and 1 for finishing...
Gary

honestjohntoo

576 posts

216 months

Saturday 6th September 2014
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My Car is also Red - this is my story:

Hello Campers.

During a pleasantly wet afternoon at the Rover SD1 Herts/Beds/Cambs July regional meeting I consulted Grim and Jon about the distressed paint on my TP. Lots of tooth sucking from all of us but no basic plan emerged other than the prospect of finding and paying for a local detailing valetor. Now that could work out expensive at £30 - £40 per hour, methinks.

The problem is basically down to me being unable to put in the physical effort to get the job done. Painfully standing and walking around it whilst thinking about the elbow grease needed, invoked many months of neglect. Being hospitalised didn't help either.

Enough misery - methinks. Then Carl breezed in from France to attend the 'Queen' reunion concert at the Hammersmith Apollo and a Village reunion with all his erstwhile teenage mates.

The bonus being he brings with him, his machine polishing kit recently used to restore the paintwork on his ancient Land Cruiser prior to a lucrative sale.

You would not believe what the frogs will pay for these versatile elderly vehicles?

After a brief demonstration and lesson on my Shogun, I found I could easily handle the machine, even sitting down, a major bonus. I have to do this, but in an instant he's gone back to France taking the kit with him.

With apologies to the movie - "Usual Suspects" -

'The greatest trick the Devil (Carl) ever pulled was convincing the world he didn't exist. And poof. Just like that, he's gone'.

So I ordered an identical "Dodo Juice" kit - this what turned up.



This is similar from Ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dodo-Juice-Spin-Doctor-V...

and some various relevant smaller diameter accessories which all arrived the following day.

Today, was the first dry day for aeons, so I assembled the kit and followed Carl's guidelines about cleanliness and not applying to much pressure, set to, sorting out the distressed paint on my Twin Plenum Rover SD1 Vitesse.

Doing only one panel at a time, three passes with three different grades of 3M compound using three different density pads followed by an application of 3M special synthetic wax polish. I soon discovered the coarsest pass was not always needed. That was a bonus too!

So! Today I managed to repair the paint on six panels (including the rear panel) and both 'E' posts, and to my absolute joy it's shining like a jewel again.

Sure I had to sit down most of the time and there are still four panels to do including the front, etc, plus roof, bonnet and tailgate.

Sadly, why am I nervous about the bonnet and roof?

And the kit? So, it cost an arm and a leg, £220, but when I set that against what looks like a lifetimes supply of expensive 3M compounds and a very versatile rotary buffing machine, plus a family set of three cars all needing this type of work, I reckon I found my mojo again. smile

And NO!!!! Absolutely no hint of burning the paint or stressing the swage lines and panel edges.

Lets hope its still looking this good for the Nats?



..



.

The gospel according to St Alban

My compounding process is currently thus: (but subject to change as needed).

  • clean panel and scrupulous cleanliness whilst working
  • only use colour coded compound with colour coded pad
  • dot some small amounts of compound on the 150 mm GREEN pad
  • before switching on, dot/spread it over a small area of the panel say 1 - 3 sq ft
  • switch on and continue to spread on the lowest speed until evenly distributed
  • increase the speed but use only light pressure on the pad
  • keep the pad moving in various directions but never in one place
  • you can feel the drag as the compound works on the paint
  • a fine spray of water from a used perfume bottle helps, just a merest small amount, ie almost none, otherwise it flies everywhere
  • finishing with overlapping horizontal sweeps seem to work best
  • treat the edges and swage lines with care and (obviously methinks) parallel to the line
  • 5 to 10 minutes was my target
  • during which, replenish the compound as seems necessary
  • always dot and re-spread as already mentioned before resuming the process described
  • during process keep feeling the surface for improving smoothness and excess warmth
  • move across the panel and repeat all above until a whole panel is done
  • as confidence increases expand the working area to half a panel and then maybe to one whole panel
  • lightly clean off the surface with microfibre cloth removing all traces of compound
  • inspect for nibs, blemishes and uncut areas, correct as required
  • whilst the panel is clean, swirls and compounding marks may be visible - but don't panic - two more compounds to go.
  • Move on to the next two colour pads, YELLOW followed by BLUE and repeat exactly as above
  • The lighter compound pads are softer and very forgiving - ie less worry
  • dont mix compounds on the wrong pads
  • always wipe off coarser compounds before using the next finer compound
  • for hard to get at areas, use the 75 mm backing plate and pads.
  • the 75 mm bits work great along the rear panel even the rear light clusters (bonus)
  • shake out the microfibre cloths each time before reusing - I didn't change cloths for each compound
  • apply the 3M polish as per instructions on bottle
  • wipe on - wipe off- do not allow it to dry/haze
Notes

All of the above learned from a brief demo from Carl and the process I felt comfortable with as it developed during the first day.

I am not a bodywork person and my car was not fooked. biggrin

http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/



Edited by honestjohntoo on Saturday 6th September 16:22

rsv gone!

11,288 posts

241 months

Sunday 14th September 2014
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You've made a lovely job of the Rover