Sanding Primer
Discussion
I put the lacquer on after about an hour and it reacted badly. Turned the colour from a good colour match to a dull dark grey. Is there anyway I can re-spray the final colour coat after wet dry sanding or would I need to sand back to the primer something I wouldn't really want to do. Thanks for any advice.
you can rub the lacquer off, re-apply another layer of colour coat over the last colour coat and try lacquering again... after a longer wait.
Try to keep the rubbing even so you don't get patches of primer showing through the old colour coat though because you may be able to see subtle colour changes on the finished article.
Try to keep the rubbing even so you don't get patches of primer showing through the old colour coat though because you may be able to see subtle colour changes on the finished article.
leafspring said:
you can rub the lacquer off, re-apply another layer of colour coat over the last colour coat and try lacquering again... after a longer wait.
Try to keep the rubbing even so you don't get patches of primer showing through the old colour coat though because you may be able to see subtle colour changes on the finished article.
Thanks for the re-apply, What grit wet dry would you recommend on the colour coat before I apply a new coat off this?Try to keep the rubbing even so you don't get patches of primer showing through the old colour coat though because you may be able to see subtle colour changes on the finished article.
With celly based paints you can cheat quite well with a hairdryer or hot air gun.
Ive had several instances where reactions occur applying basecoat, a bit of heat and a slightly dry first few coats helps. Once the basecoat is touch dry its ready for lacquer.
If its going to react, it makes no difference if the base is 24 hrs dry, its the fact the thinners in the lacquer is reacting with the basecoat. Again and bit of heat helps the drying process and can lessen reaction.
600/800 to flat existing paint, then afterwards flat lacquer with 1500 (if you have orbital sander).
Ive had several instances where reactions occur applying basecoat, a bit of heat and a slightly dry first few coats helps. Once the basecoat is touch dry its ready for lacquer.
If its going to react, it makes no difference if the base is 24 hrs dry, its the fact the thinners in the lacquer is reacting with the basecoat. Again and bit of heat helps the drying process and can lessen reaction.
600/800 to flat existing paint, then afterwards flat lacquer with 1500 (if you have orbital sander).
Ideally the finish should be dulled by the flatting process. Scotch brite pads are another option to key the existing paint. Once the gloss and gone theres enough of a key for the new paint to stick to.
Flat the old paint with a flat block ie a small block of wood, to prevent scoring finger lines in the paint.
Flat the old paint with a flat block ie a small block of wood, to prevent scoring finger lines in the paint.
Matt11 said:
Thanks I have done it and it looks decent. I don't think I am going to try lacquering it after last times problems. Should the paint still be ok without lacquer?
Unless it is topcoat, then it will be a base colour and flat/dull when dry, the lacquer gives gloss and protection otherwise it will wear off quickly.Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff