Is there any way to recover paintwork when it goes milky?
Discussion
Long story short, am still happy to run my current shed as mechanically it is sound, and who knows what issues you inherit when replacing with another shed. Am going to give it a good service and get the drop links done on the rear
Only thing really letting her down (apart from being an Avensis) is quite large areas of milky paintwork - on top of the bootlid, roofline just above the doors - seemingly areas where hands tend to rest
Is there any way to lessen the impact of these or bring the paintwork back?
Thanks in advance for any help
Only thing really letting her down (apart from being an Avensis) is quite large areas of milky paintwork - on top of the bootlid, roofline just above the doors - seemingly areas where hands tend to rest
Is there any way to lessen the impact of these or bring the paintwork back?
Thanks in advance for any help
It is very unusual for a clear over base (metallic laquered) paint finish to go milky but it can. I assume your paint is then metallic? You normally only see this on solid paint, particularly red.
Same as I've said above though, t-cut it in the first instance. Others will be along no doubt and state that there are other more expensive and better concoctions to use, but have a go with good olde fashioned and cheap t-cut first.
Same as I've said above though, t-cut it in the first instance. Others will be along no doubt and state that there are other more expensive and better concoctions to use, but have a go with good olde fashioned and cheap t-cut first.
Hi pieman68, you mention that it seems to be where hands come to rest, do you mean that it looks like marks left by hands?
If it what I think it is it is really common and is staining left by hands with suncream, babywipe residue etc on them. In my work I see dozens of these, many little hand prints on doors etc, they look exactly as you describe, milky and can feel a bit 'dull' to the touch and they always polish off. Get your self some Farecla G3 scratch remover raher than t-cut, its about £9 a bottle in halfords. It is a diminishing abrasive meaning it breaks down as you polish, you don't need to go hammer and tongs at it, just work to compound into the panel and wipe away regularly to check progress. It will make short work of removing these from your clear coat finish. If it is this sort of mark, no permanent damage is left (in my experience).
If it what I think it is it is really common and is staining left by hands with suncream, babywipe residue etc on them. In my work I see dozens of these, many little hand prints on doors etc, they look exactly as you describe, milky and can feel a bit 'dull' to the touch and they always polish off. Get your self some Farecla G3 scratch remover raher than t-cut, its about £9 a bottle in halfords. It is a diminishing abrasive meaning it breaks down as you polish, you don't need to go hammer and tongs at it, just work to compound into the panel and wipe away regularly to check progress. It will make short work of removing these from your clear coat finish. If it is this sort of mark, no permanent damage is left (in my experience).
Adamski69 said:
Hi pieman68, you mention that it seems to be where hands come to rest, do you mean that it looks like marks left by hands?
If it what I think it is it is really common and is staining left by hands with suncream, babywipe residue etc on them. In my work I see dozens of these, many little hand prints on doors etc, they look exactly as you describe, milky and can feel a bit 'dull' to the touch and they always polish off. Get your self some Farecla G3 scratch remover raher than t-cut, its about £9 a bottle in halfords. It is a diminishing abrasive meaning it breaks down as you polish, you don't need to go hammer and tongs at it, just work to compound into the panel and wipe away regularly to check progress. It will make short work of removing these from your clear coat finish. If it is this sort of mark, no permanent damage is left (in my experience).
Thanks Adamski, would you use the paste or the liquid?If it what I think it is it is really common and is staining left by hands with suncream, babywipe residue etc on them. In my work I see dozens of these, many little hand prints on doors etc, they look exactly as you describe, milky and can feel a bit 'dull' to the touch and they always polish off. Get your self some Farecla G3 scratch remover raher than t-cut, its about £9 a bottle in halfords. It is a diminishing abrasive meaning it breaks down as you polish, you don't need to go hammer and tongs at it, just work to compound into the panel and wipe away regularly to check progress. It will make short work of removing these from your clear coat finish. If it is this sort of mark, no permanent damage is left (in my experience).
Regards
Steve
The marks are stains in the lacquer surface and require something a bit bolder than an APC to remove unfortuantely. If you get a mark quick enough then sure, just wipe the chemical off but once it is left it stains the lacquer a milky colour by 'eating' into the clear coat.
By all means try something more gentle first, it's your car after all, but from experience removal with an abrasive is generally necessary and the quickest solution. G3 can leave marring if not broken down or worked far enough as the particles are initially large so they can work and damaged surface, but as mentioned, it is what is called a 'diminishing abrasive' so the particles breakdown and reduce in size as the polish is worked. Also the right applicator will help avoid this. If you do experience this then a finishing polish with a lower abrasive level like Menzerna SF4000 will leave a glass like surface of corrected paint to apply a sealant or surrender LSP to.
Also use small amounts of the polish on an applicator, a little goes a long way once the applicator is primed.
By all means try something more gentle first, it's your car after all, but from experience removal with an abrasive is generally necessary and the quickest solution. G3 can leave marring if not broken down or worked far enough as the particles are initially large so they can work and damaged surface, but as mentioned, it is what is called a 'diminishing abrasive' so the particles breakdown and reduce in size as the polish is worked. Also the right applicator will help avoid this. If you do experience this then a finishing polish with a lower abrasive level like Menzerna SF4000 will leave a glass like surface of corrected paint to apply a sealant or surrender LSP to.
Also use small amounts of the polish on an applicator, a little goes a long way once the applicator is primed.
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