Spraying Fiberglass-any pointers
Discussion
up until now my home spraying has been on metal, and 9 times out of time I have used cellulose. However the time has come for me to address a few areas on a 98 Lotus that needs paint and lacquer. I assume its the same format, of flat it down, keep it super clean, etc and as there is paint on the car already I don't suppose it needs priming or does it ?
All advice gratefully received, whislt I have your attention, do I remember rightly that you can get clear coat already mixed ready to go, or does it also need thinning and a hardener ?
All advice gratefully received, whislt I have your attention, do I remember rightly that you can get clear coat already mixed ready to go, or does it also need thinning and a hardener ?
Well, let’s just say I will never use cellulose again. I used it for 45 years on and off and then last year I had need to paint the side of my MX5 after it was written off. I used 2 pack primer filler, base coat, and 2 pack clear.
First off, the 2 pack primer is a revelation. Sprays on nice, dries quick, flats very easy, but best of all, no shrinkage and mapping around repairs. Remember those problems with Cellulose? I could not believe how good it was!
Thing to remember is (as always) preparation is key, especially with base coat as there is no flatting it off once it’s on there… then hit it with the clear just after its tacked off. I have been VERY pleased with the results I have achieved in my garage.
Have to say though, in preparation for painting the car, I did install a double fan off a Range Rover in the roof of the garage, which took air out of the roof space, and blew it out under the garage door which I propped open a few inches. I used a good quality mask specifically bought for 2 pack. With both fans working off a 12V car battery, they shift an incredible amount of air!
As for fiberglass, I have painted many plastic cars in the past. A Scimitar GT was the first I did, but I have done Lotus, Westfield, TVR, and many many glass motorcycle tanks. Again, preparation is the key, and I would really advocate the new breed of paints as shrinkage was always a problem with Fiberglass.
some pictures on my blog....
https://jtccc.wordpress.com/our-cars/about/
First off, the 2 pack primer is a revelation. Sprays on nice, dries quick, flats very easy, but best of all, no shrinkage and mapping around repairs. Remember those problems with Cellulose? I could not believe how good it was!
Thing to remember is (as always) preparation is key, especially with base coat as there is no flatting it off once it’s on there… then hit it with the clear just after its tacked off. I have been VERY pleased with the results I have achieved in my garage.
Have to say though, in preparation for painting the car, I did install a double fan off a Range Rover in the roof of the garage, which took air out of the roof space, and blew it out under the garage door which I propped open a few inches. I used a good quality mask specifically bought for 2 pack. With both fans working off a 12V car battery, they shift an incredible amount of air!
As for fiberglass, I have painted many plastic cars in the past. A Scimitar GT was the first I did, but I have done Lotus, Westfield, TVR, and many many glass motorcycle tanks. Again, preparation is the key, and I would really advocate the new breed of paints as shrinkage was always a problem with Fiberglass.
some pictures on my blog....
https://jtccc.wordpress.com/our-cars/about/
benters said:
thanks for the advice and the pics, your mazza looks amazing !
best I get flatting the tailgate on the car and go order me some paint and a decent mask
On the subject of flatting.... I have always used a rubber block and wet n dry.... but my mate introduced me to a hook and loop Velcro block. Used with a Velcro DA pad wrapped around it, its fantastic! one pad does a big area, and you can use them wet and dry. they stay perfectly in place and cut so well. here is the block I used.best I get flatting the tailgate on the car and go order me some paint and a decent mask
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sanding-Block-Velcro-Wit...
buzzer said:
On the subject of flatting.... I have always used a rubber block and wet n dry.... but my mate introduced me to a hook and loop Velcro block. Used with a Velcro DA pad wrapped around it, its fantastic! one pad does a big area, and you can use them wet and dry. they stay perfectly in place and cut so well. here is the block I used.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sanding-Block-Velcro-Wit...
I have one of those and a DA too. . . good tools both of themhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sanding-Block-Velcro-Wit...
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