slowing rust in a non classic

[Robert Elise]

searched a lot of posts but still a little confused on what actually works and where the easiest success can be achieved...

my 25 yr old Eunos is a stripped-out track dog, not a valuable classic. so naturally it doesn't deserve silly money/time invested in it. OTOH, it has plenty of investment in it (seats, suspension, brakes etc) so a sub-1k car is worth more like 3k to replace. I want to slow down the inevitable tin worm down, not sand back and defeat it. I'm more concerned about chassis, suspension mounts rather that a pretty body. The POR15 solutions require thorough preparation and provide top quality results, which is not my requirement.

My thoughts are a rust converter coating underneath and cavity wax in sills. Either BH Hydrate80 or Dinitrol RC800.
I wonder whether a regular spray of ACF50 would suit my needs.
Any advice?
would you bother waxing afterwards?

[chimp427]

The opinions vary, some say not to spray wax directly on to rust as it grows underneath and others say not.
If it were mine id do as you suggest, wire brush the worst of it off and use either the hydrate 80 converter or the deox gel remover. I think the remover is a little awkward to use but i have not tried it.
This is the wax i ended up buying after doing some research but i have not used it yet so cant comment on its durability, anything from bilt hamber or dinitrol would be just as good though.

http://www.rust.co.uk/mil-spec-universal-rust-proo...

[tonymor]

I've just bought a 1997 mk 1 mx 5 and it has rust bubbles on the rear wheel arches. Usual it seems . I'm looking for the best d I y rust treatment to use before re spray.
Any have used advice?

[Robert Elise]

tonymor said:

I've just bought a 1997 mk 1 mx 5 and it has rust bubbles on the rear wheel arches. Usual it seems . I'm looking for the best d I y rust treatment to use before re spray.
Any have used advice?

you need to have a good look at the car, it could well be much more than the arches. Sills rot from inside.
Plenty of full rust treatment threads on here and MX5Nutz.

My particular nuance was not to fully treat the car (many threads on this) but what is an easy hit to slow the rot.
it's a £700 shell carrying track parts that can be transferred to the next car when this dies.

i'm now thinking of applying H80 and then quickly applying a diluted wax so that it's thin and runs. The issue with thick wax is that it may last longer but it just incubates the rust underneath.

[chimp427]

I cant quite remember the number but one of dinitrols products was oil based and very thin and easy to apply not like a conventional wax product.
It my have been the ML product designed for cavitys etc.

[swisstoni]

I'd spray the underneath with clear Waxoyl for the money and effort you want to spend.
Some people slag it because they don't read the instructions and want to sound like they know something.

[bearman68]

I have used both the Dinitrol and the Waxoil on a pair of Fronteras. The Wax oil has worked quite well to be honest. I didn't bother rubbing down all the rust, just sprayed it on. 5 years on, the wax oil is flaking off quite badly, but has done the job.
The waxoil though is quite thick to get on (as others have said), so I heated it in a steel bucket full of water on a garden barbecue before applying. Got it to about 60 deg C I would have thought. It thins out nicely then, and was easier to apply.
I used the Dinitrol a few years later. This is much thinner, and much easier to apply. It's only been on a few months, but looks the business. I sprayed my MR2 with it as well, and it really is very easy.
If the online salt spray tests can be believed,it's also a much better protector, though I have no personal experience of that.

If I was doing again,I would use the Dinitrol

Cheers

[swisstoni]

Waxoyl can be warmed and/or thinned with White Spirit. Can be sprayed as thin as you like.

[HustleRussell]

Just been through this on my BMW. areas of failing underseal have been scraped off and surface rust treated with Bilt Hamber Deoxy Gel, the bare metal areas were then primed and then I schutz'd the area. I plan to liberally waxoyl the lot too.

I'd say it's worth at least cleaning and wire brushing the affected areas as well as you can. If it's external bodywork you're going to need to grind the rust back, prime and paint it. On the underside, waxoyl is a good, fast, belt & braces approach to slow down the rot.

[Robert Elise]

i'm coming to the view that a rust converter then a thin underseal (waxoyl + white spirit or Dinitrol) is a good call.
My reservation about wax was that it just seals in the rust while it gets worse. So yes - follow the instructions, get it warm and thin it so it can seep in easily.
even if there's still rust there, a well thinned solution will fill the gap and keep out air and moisture.

[ya_bollox]

rust converters don't penetrate the rust much so usually it needs to be cleaned then reapplied, in hard to reach spots that's impossible without blasting(not an option), but if its not too bad and is more-so corrosion anything is better then nothing, waxoil, dinitrol, or Shultz, stonechip, from factory most have only a light coat of primer an seam-sealer in cavity's ect.

[PositronicRay]

I always prefer to do this sort of stuff on a hot dry day. Maybe paranoia but it just seems less chance of sealing in any moisture. Plus stuff always goes on better when hot.

I prefer applying Bilt Hamber to Waxoil, but I've not tried Dinitrol.