S2000 arch rust

Author
Discussion

Vince Noir

Original Poster:

36 posts

194 months

Thursday 6th October 2016
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So the S2000 has all of a sudden developed a substantial amount of rear arch rust. What're the options here? It's almost a certainty that the inner arches would have rusted through before it became visible on the outer arches beneath the paint, likely meaning it would need chopping out. Would it be acceptable to fibreglass new lips into the arches, or better to weld in new metal.

The only quote I've had so far was for £2000-£2500... whereas before I'd seen people mention £400 or even less so that's some substantial investment, and really too much for me to justify to the other half!


battered

4,088 posts

147 months

Thursday 6th October 2016
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£2k is a total piss take. Proper job at Indy is 300 to 400 a side inc painting. Bodging it up with P38 and a paint will hold it back for a couple of years for half that. DIY repairs are easy and cheap, but you'll be patching it up every year unless you know what you're doing. Your choice, depending on the car's value and how long you want to keep it.

PositronicRay

27,004 posts

183 months

Friday 7th October 2016
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If it's developed the rust "all of a sudden" I would suspect a previous repair, how long have you had the car.

Not many bodyshops like dealing with rust, they won't guarantee it and prefer panel replacement, a double skin makes it more complicated. You'll find with the "no guarantee" type jobs they'll look fine cosmetically, but rust will come back again in a yr or two.

You could try http://carbodyrepaircoventry.com/ they're v busy at the moment but have the skills to tackle it, one of the few outfits that'll still lead load.


Vince Noir

Original Poster:

36 posts

194 months

Friday 7th October 2016
quotequote all
I've had the car 3 years this month and the bodywork on it has been relatively spot on but it does make you wonder if someone else has had a go. Other s2000 owners have indicated the arch protectors are to blame in that all they do is trap debris and moisture whereas other hondas such as similar aged Civics for instance do not have the arch/lip protectors and consequently don't exhibit arch rust.

Value wise, the retail price does seem to have gone up a good couple of grand since I bought it but of course this rust would impact that significantly.

Quote requests have been sent to a few other shops locally to Cardiff, failing that I might look around the midlands too as I have a base up there too.

Edit: I'd imagine getting hold of a donor rear half (shell) would be even more pricey... just a thought.

Edited by Vince Noir on Friday 7th October 11:08

battered

4,088 posts

147 months

Friday 7th October 2016
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Vince Noir said:
Edit: I'd imagine getting hold of a donor rear half (shell) would be even more pricey... just a thought.
No need. I'm no welder but I could get a pattern panel and butcher it for the bits I needed, or fabricate similar and make it good. You don't need lead loading as previously mentioned, it's not what these cars got when new so why start now? P38 will be fine for making the shape once the rot is out and metal in.

Vince Noir

Original Poster:

36 posts

194 months

Saturday 8th October 2016
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I'm not sure what lead loading is but doubt it has it, the car is nicely simple in most ways. As for pattern panels sadly I don't think they exist, they do for civics, preludes etc but not for the S2000. The rear quarters are also welded into the sill panels too so not bolt on.

For me, as long as the rust is all cut out I don't mind what the new arch lips are made of as long as they look fine when finished & painted. If anything surely fibreglass would be better as it means the rust can't return in the same area? At this point though I do very much wish I could weld... gonna be a lot of overtime worked this winter.

PositronicRay

27,004 posts

183 months

Saturday 8th October 2016
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Lead loading is old school, used to blend repairs and panels. It wouldn't have been used on your car, just an example of the skills this bodyshop still practises.

Having said that lead loading is still useful in rust repairs, it's not porous like filler.