Best rust treatment?

Author
Discussion

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

53 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
quotequote all
Rust is something we try and stay away from at work, because it's just a pain in the arse.

But I can't avoid it as there are a couple of small areas bubbling on my own car in the usual places they always bubble at, so I need to sort it out.

I will be sanding the areas right back to try to get as much out as I can, but then I would ideally like to apply a high quality rust treatment to the area before priming and painting etc.

I've had a small pot of Jenolite treatment that I've used on a few small jobs, but I would like to know if there is anything better?

I've heard good things about Rust Bullet but never used it.

I know it always comes back in the end, but the longer it stays away for the better!

sidgolf

163 posts

189 months

Thursday 16th March 2017
quotequote all
in the past iv'e found,when dealing with the average rust patch,that it's possible to prevent the rust coming back by being really brutal when removing the rust.

don't rely on a miracle-rust-remover alone-instead,sand,scrape,file,gouge at the rust patch until you are left with perfectly clean,shiny metal.Even the usual deep pits of rust need to be hacked at until they are shiny metal too.

painting the fresh metal with something like Bilt-Hamber Electrox only after youv'e done the above gives you an excellent chance of a permanent fix instead of the usual 'rusty-again-in-6-months' outcome.

SEE YA

3,522 posts

244 months

Thursday 16th March 2017
quotequote all
I have used Dintrol goes on well.
Done a few projects with it.

Warm it in a bowl first helps as well.


Edited by SEE YA on Thursday 16th March 07:01

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

53 months

Thursday 16th March 2017
quotequote all
Thanks for the suggestions so far.

Haven't heard of those treatments, so I'll take a look.

Belle427

8,857 posts

232 months

Saturday 18th March 2017
quotequote all
Take a look at bilt hamber products too, very good stuff.

PositronicRay

26,957 posts

182 months

Saturday 18th March 2017
quotequote all
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bilt-Hamber-Hydrate-80-50...

I use this stuff if it's only light surface rust.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

53 months

Sunday 19th March 2017
quotequote all
I now just face the struggle of finding clean metal!

I've found in the past that even small patches of 'surface' rust bubbles maybe the size of a 50p can be really deep and a hell of a lot of sanding or grinding is required to find clean metal.

227bhp

10,203 posts

127 months

Sunday 19th March 2017
quotequote all
SEE YA said:
I have used Dintrol goes on well.
Done a few projects with it.

Warm it in a bowl first helps as well.


Edited by SEE YA on Thursday 16th March 07:01
If you have to warm it then you're using the wrong type, of which there are several different ones. I've got them listed and can copy and paste in if anyone is interested.

Eurorob

21 posts

91 months

Sunday 19th March 2017
quotequote all
The best thing you can do is cut out the rust area and replace the affected area, make sure you waxoil/treat the back of the panel once it's painted. I tend not to agree with any of these so called 'rust cure' treatments, at the end of the day most rust will apear on the surface due to rust behind the panel so cleaning and treating the surface isn't stopping what's happening behind the panel, hence why the best way to treat rust is to cut out and replace, doing anything else will simply slow the process down, all depends how bad it is

SEE YA

3,522 posts

244 months

Sunday 19th March 2017
quotequote all
227bhp said:
SEE YA said:
I have used Dintrol goes on well.
Done a few projects with it.

Warm it in a bowl first helps as well.


Edited by SEE YA on Thursday 16th March 07:01
If you have to warm it then you're using the wrong type, of which there are several different ones. I've got them listed and can copy and paste in if anyone is interested.
Its a better flow for the air gun when it's warm.

sidgolf

163 posts

189 months

Sunday 19th March 2017
quotequote all
Eurorob said:
The best thing you can do is cut out the rust area and replace the affected area, make sure you waxoil/treat the back of the panel once it's painted. I tend not to agree with any of these so called 'rust cure' treatments, at the end of the day most rust will apear on the surface due to rust behind the panel so cleaning and treating the surface isn't stopping what's happening behind the panel, hence why the best way to treat rust is to cut out and replace, doing anything else will simply slow the process down, all depends how bad it is
this is why repairs to areas such as rusty rear wheel-arches so frequently fail-dealing with the obvious rust on the outside is only half the battle.

on rear wheel-arches for instance you need to access the reverse side from the boot/hatch area and spray the back side with dinitrol/dynax/engine-oil etc.,or all your efforts on the outside will be for nothing.


227bhp

10,203 posts

127 months

Sunday 19th March 2017
quotequote all
SEE YA said:
227bhp said:
SEE YA said:
I have used Dintrol goes on well.
Done a few projects with it.

Warm it in a bowl first helps as well.


Edited by SEE YA on Thursday 16th March 07:01
If you have to warm it then you're using the wrong type, of which there are several different ones. I've got them listed and can copy and paste in if anyone is interested.
Its a better flow for the air gun when it's warm.
It's better to use the correct product in the first place rather than apply a band aid to try make another one work as well.

SEE YA

3,522 posts

244 months

Monday 20th March 2017
quotequote all
227bhp said:
SEE YA said:
227bhp said:
SEE YA said:
I have used Dintrol goes on well.
Done a few projects with it.

Warm it in a bowl first helps as well.


Edited by SEE YA on Thursday 16th March 07:01
If you have to warm it then you're using the wrong type, of which there are several different ones. I've got them listed and can copy and paste in if anyone is interested.
Its a better flow for the air gun when it's warm.
It's better to use the correct product in the first place rather than apply a band aid to try make another one work as well.
rolleyes

Eurorob

21 posts

91 months

Monday 20th March 2017
quotequote all
sidgolf said:
this is why repairs to areas such as rusty rear wheel-arches so frequently fail-dealing with the obvious rust on the outside is only half the battle.

on rear wheel-arches for instance you need to access the reverse side from the boot/hatch area and spray the back side with dinitrol/dynax/engine-oil etc.,or all your efforts on the outside will be for nothing.
Exactly, there are also instances where inner and outer panels have a bond or foam between them, it's also a note that this is best removed, clean/replace affected areas between the skins and then treat the rear of the panel.


This was the inside of a Range Rover rear itch I had to do a few weeks ago, customer had found a small patch of rust coming through, came to us for a price and was very upset when we informed him that his entire rear arch lip was made entirely from filler, we cut out the full affected area, cleaned and replaced a section of the inner, made a new outer ( only panel available was a new genuine rear quarter panel at £1900+vat) then used panel bond between where the seams met, then upon completion of the job we treated the inside of the panel with waxoil and the underside of the arch lip with under body spray

Swede123

452 posts

191 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2017
quotequote all
I'm told that rust will only reappear if the air can get to it.

On occasions on visible painted surfaces I've sanded back as much as I dare before I make a hole in the metalwork. There is often a pitted surface left with remnants of rust. I then use Kurerust or similar and let it dry and form a shield. Then I put on a couple of coats of Hammerite paint and when that has hardened I will use an aerosol, touch up or whatever is needed to get a decent and acceptable finish. Then lots of coats of a carnuba wax.

If it a wheel arch or somewhere that I can get behind I aerosol a good amount of Bilt Hamber to do its work. It's good stuff.

I have to warn you though if you do this to your McLaren F1 or your Ferrari 288GTO, both of which now could be suffering rust problems, it's best not to boast on forums how you've saved thousands of pounds by doing a DIY job.

R Atkinson Esq, a former F1 owner, could have asked his friend Mr Bean to do a DIY job for him when he scraped his car but it could have ended up as a F1 resembling a mini and Mr Bean could have driven off in a mini resembling an F1. Obviously not a Snickers moment.

Eurorob

21 posts

91 months

Thursday 23rd March 2017
quotequote all
Swede123 said:
I'm told that rust will only reappear if the air can get to it.

On occasions on visible painted surfaces I've sanded back as much as I dare before I make a hole in the metalwork. There is often a pitted surface left with remnants of rust. I then use Kurerust or similar and let it dry and form a shield. Then I put on a couple of coats of Hammerite paint and when that has hardened I will use an aerosol, touch up or whatever is needed to get a decent and acceptable finish. Then lots of coats of a carnuba wax.

If it a wheel arch or somewhere that I can get behind I aerosol a good amount of Bilt Hamber to do its work. It's good stuff.

I have to warn you though if you do this to your McLaren F1 or your Ferrari 288GTO, both of which now could be suffering rust problems, it's best not to boast on forums how you've saved thousands of pounds by doing a DIY job.

R Atkinson Esq, a former F1 owner, could have asked his friend Mr Bean to do a DIY job for him when he scraped his car but it could have ended up as a F1 resembling a mini and Mr Bean could have driven off in a mini resembling an F1. Obviously not a Snickers moment.
Sadly no part of a car is air tight so air will always get to it, sanding the surface back and treating it to form a shield will not prevent it as the rust is still growing behind the panel, even when cars are dipped/coated (when restoring a classic for instance) the coatings don't get between the seams so rust is still present, the rust cure products will work but only if you apply them to ALL affected areas, just placing it on the surface is only doing half the job as the rust is still on the other side