I thought it might be good to combine some knowledge and put together a rough guide on how to detail a car. Please add to this if you can!
EXTERIOR
1. Rinse car off
2. Snowfoam car with power washer and lance* (leave for 3-5 minutes)
3. Rinse off car
4. Fill one bucket with car shampoo, one bucket with clear water (1/2 full)
5. Inside each bucket have a grit guard.**
6. Starting at the top of the car using a lambswool mitt wash the car, rinsing the mitt in the clear water bucket after each panel by rubbing on the grit guard or thoroughly with fingers, to remove grit.
7. Using a second mitt (no sponges unless natural ones), do the lower portion of the car with fresh shampoo and then the wheels.***
8. Using an old dish brush clean the wheel arches and underside of the car, and rinse.
8. Rinse the car with an open hose, to let the water sheet off the bodywork
9. Using some quick detailer spray the car to remove excess water.****
10. Dry the car with a microfibre drying towel - throw away that chamois, all they do is scratch the paintwork!!
Claying
A clay bar is a useful addition to anyone's arsenal, as it has a multitude of uses beyond its primary design. The premise for a clay bar is to remove bonded contaminants, most notably iron shards from industrial fallout/cast-off, which have a tendency to rust and etch through the paint, including where applicable, the lacquered topmost surface. The clay acts like skin exfoliation, only instead of sloughing off the contaminants, it grabs and binds them to itself. Once done, you should only need to redo any areas periodically (3-4 months) depending on various factors.
The clay also removes tar, stubborn tree sap, bird 'bombs', and insect remains. The old clay, rather than thrown away, can be kept and used for the wheels - tar and stubborn brake dust - as well as glass, which the shampoo alone won't always fully clean.
Generally, a polishing (minor swirls and/or more prominent scratches) follows after the claying, since a secondary effect of it would be to remove some of the sealant/wax still on the paintwork.
If not, then those areas touched, can be redone once dried.
Whilst not always required, the general consensus is to rewash the paintwork after claying, as some will leave a slight residue.
There is no need to dry prior to claying, as one bar uses ordinary tap water, and the rest using a Quick Detail spray type lube instead, doesn't have any interaction issues with wet paint. In fact a combination of the two may result in less QD being used than if the paintwork were bone dry.
If the clay is hard to mould, soften for a couple of minutes in warm tap water.
Remember to look at the bar periodically and fold in half, and remould to palm size. The contaminants should not protrude from the clay, but be imbedded, so no new swirls or scratches should result from claying - it's more a better safe than sorry recommendation.
Also, very little pressure needs to be applied to the bar - you'll feel and hear the clay working, as the initial resistance will change, and the bar will glide smoothly across the surface.
Like polishing, 1'x1' or 2'x2' areas are best to concentrate on, rather than the whole panel.
If you've never clayed your car before, then chances are it does need doing. To know if it needs doing again, use a bit of clingfilm or thin plastic sandwich type bag, and use under fingertips.
Any roughness felt is contamination (best done after washing, and whilst wet), so you know which areas need redoing.
Lastly, bars come in different sizes - most can be halved instead of the full bar being used, but some of the larger ones can be cut into 3rds or even quartered, and be fully useable for the entire car, even when it looks more brown/black than the colour it started out as.
If you do under lube or apply a bit too much pressure, you can leave a mark - this is marring, and a bit of light polishing will remove that without causing subsequent damage to the paintwork. Nothing too abrasive like Mer or T-Cut, but something like DoDo Juice Lime Prime or Autoglym SRP (Super Resin Polish) with a foam or microfibre-over-foam applicator.
Polishing
Polish the car two or three times a year and top it off with a decent sealer and then wax*****. Reapply a decent wax every six weeks to keep a good wet look shine. Also spend some time polishing your wheels, and also wax those too with sealant/dedicated wheel wax, as the dirt will just slide off when washed. Reapply monthly.
INTERIOR
• Using an APC (All Purpose Cleaner) diluted 1 part cleaner to 10 parts water wipe down the rubber door shuts and dashboard. APC is also great for rubber mats and vinyl.
• Using a good leather cleaner and conditioner clean your seats every three months.
• Velour seats again vacuum and with APC remove any marks.
• Pull out your floor mats, and shake or brush off the dirt and debris.
• Pick up any rubbish, and empty the ashtray and console storage bins.
• Vacuum the interior carpet, seats, seat crevices and console.
• Wipe down your door jambs and door sills with a damp towel.
• Clean the interior glass with a good glass cleaner and a microfibre towel.
• Apply a protectant with an ultraviolet (UV) light inhibitor to the dash, console and tops of door panels (the areas with the most sun exposure).
• Apply a conditioner to all door seals and exterior plastics etc to keep them nourished and looking original.
1 * - or use a foamer like that of Gilmour ilk, or Superspray
2 ** - optional addition, and size means it'll fit only certain buckets, not all
3 *** - or wheel brush to get in behind spokes and inside rim. Second mitt (microfibre noodle or sheepskin) optional
4 **** - optional, won't be an issue if omitted, and just the towel itself is used
EXTERIOR
1. Rinse car off
2. Snowfoam car with power washer and lance* (leave for 3-5 minutes)
3. Rinse off car
4. Fill one bucket with car shampoo, one bucket with clear water (1/2 full)
5. Inside each bucket have a grit guard.**
6. Starting at the top of the car using a lambswool mitt wash the car, rinsing the mitt in the clear water bucket after each panel by rubbing on the grit guard or thoroughly with fingers, to remove grit.
7. Using a second mitt (no sponges unless natural ones), do the lower portion of the car with fresh shampoo and then the wheels.***
8. Using an old dish brush clean the wheel arches and underside of the car, and rinse.
8. Rinse the car with an open hose, to let the water sheet off the bodywork
9. Using some quick detailer spray the car to remove excess water.****
10. Dry the car with a microfibre drying towel - throw away that chamois, all they do is scratch the paintwork!!
Claying
A clay bar is a useful addition to anyone's arsenal, as it has a multitude of uses beyond its primary design. The premise for a clay bar is to remove bonded contaminants, most notably iron shards from industrial fallout/cast-off, which have a tendency to rust and etch through the paint, including where applicable, the lacquered topmost surface. The clay acts like skin exfoliation, only instead of sloughing off the contaminants, it grabs and binds them to itself. Once done, you should only need to redo any areas periodically (3-4 months) depending on various factors.
The clay also removes tar, stubborn tree sap, bird 'bombs', and insect remains. The old clay, rather than thrown away, can be kept and used for the wheels - tar and stubborn brake dust - as well as glass, which the shampoo alone won't always fully clean.
Generally, a polishing (minor swirls and/or more prominent scratches) follows after the claying, since a secondary effect of it would be to remove some of the sealant/wax still on the paintwork.
If not, then those areas touched, can be redone once dried.
Whilst not always required, the general consensus is to rewash the paintwork after claying, as some will leave a slight residue.
There is no need to dry prior to claying, as one bar uses ordinary tap water, and the rest using a Quick Detail spray type lube instead, doesn't have any interaction issues with wet paint. In fact a combination of the two may result in less QD being used than if the paintwork were bone dry.
If the clay is hard to mould, soften for a couple of minutes in warm tap water.
Remember to look at the bar periodically and fold in half, and remould to palm size. The contaminants should not protrude from the clay, but be imbedded, so no new swirls or scratches should result from claying - it's more a better safe than sorry recommendation.
Also, very little pressure needs to be applied to the bar - you'll feel and hear the clay working, as the initial resistance will change, and the bar will glide smoothly across the surface.
Like polishing, 1'x1' or 2'x2' areas are best to concentrate on, rather than the whole panel.
If you've never clayed your car before, then chances are it does need doing. To know if it needs doing again, use a bit of clingfilm or thin plastic sandwich type bag, and use under fingertips.
Any roughness felt is contamination (best done after washing, and whilst wet), so you know which areas need redoing.
Lastly, bars come in different sizes - most can be halved instead of the full bar being used, but some of the larger ones can be cut into 3rds or even quartered, and be fully useable for the entire car, even when it looks more brown/black than the colour it started out as.
If you do under lube or apply a bit too much pressure, you can leave a mark - this is marring, and a bit of light polishing will remove that without causing subsequent damage to the paintwork. Nothing too abrasive like Mer or T-Cut, but something like DoDo Juice Lime Prime or Autoglym SRP (Super Resin Polish) with a foam or microfibre-over-foam applicator.
Polishing
Polish the car two or three times a year and top it off with a decent sealer and then wax*****. Reapply a decent wax every six weeks to keep a good wet look shine. Also spend some time polishing your wheels, and also wax those too with sealant/dedicated wheel wax, as the dirt will just slide off when washed. Reapply monthly.
INTERIOR
• Using an APC (All Purpose Cleaner) diluted 1 part cleaner to 10 parts water wipe down the rubber door shuts and dashboard. APC is also great for rubber mats and vinyl.
• Using a good leather cleaner and conditioner clean your seats every three months.
• Velour seats again vacuum and with APC remove any marks.
• Pull out your floor mats, and shake or brush off the dirt and debris.
• Pick up any rubbish, and empty the ashtray and console storage bins.
• Vacuum the interior carpet, seats, seat crevices and console.
• Wipe down your door jambs and door sills with a damp towel.
• Clean the interior glass with a good glass cleaner and a microfibre towel.
• Apply a protectant with an ultraviolet (UV) light inhibitor to the dash, console and tops of door panels (the areas with the most sun exposure).
• Apply a conditioner to all door seals and exterior plastics etc to keep them nourished and looking original.
1 * - or use a foamer like that of Gilmour ilk, or Superspray
2 ** - optional addition, and size means it'll fit only certain buckets, not all
3 *** - or wheel brush to get in behind spokes and inside rim. Second mitt (microfibre noodle or sheepskin) optional
4 **** - optional, won't be an issue if omitted, and just the towel itself is used