Best MIG welder for car work
Discussion
I've had an SIP for about 20 years and it has been superb. From what I've heard of the newer units the quality is dependent on where they buy the components from at the time - wire feed mechanism being one of them that can be good or bad.
Invest at least £100 in an auto dimming mask but one that has batteries. The solar ones without batteries don't last so avoid. Speedglass is a good make. make sure you store it away from frost when not in use - i.e. indoors.
The mask is the most important thing for your eyes, you only have one pair, so spend the money and keep your sight.
Invest at least £100 in an auto dimming mask but one that has batteries. The solar ones without batteries don't last so avoid. Speedglass is a good make. make sure you store it away from frost when not in use - i.e. indoors.
The mask is the most important thing for your eyes, you only have one pair, so spend the money and keep your sight.
I've also got a Clarke 90EN that was a bargain from an autojumble, but only use it with external gas. I had a BOC cylinder for years, but recently swapped to a rent-free cylinder but still with argoshield or equivalent. I read on the mig-welding forum that CO-only isn't that good for mild steel, so I figured I've got enough issues without using gas that's described by some as unsuitable. I know a lot of people use it, I'm not though.
TooMany2cvs said:
And I've seen far too many rushed and utterly bodged jobs done by "professionals".
ditto, very true!!I taught myself, and if you've seen my work, I don't think you'd call it crap.
granted, there are self taught people who shouldn't be let near a welder, but every case is different!
[quote=Markgenesis]I can highly recommend this machine though.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Been using one of these for the past five years or so and never had a problem, i use it without gas (some will swear by gas but i've always managed without) as it's one less thing to worry about, flux (gasless MIG wire is slightly more expensive than gas wire though), but this machine can be used with gas or without.
If my Clark 151 MIG broke tomorrow i'd just go out an buy another (if i could'nt fix it) as this one has more than paid for it's self and it's all i'll ever need for what i do.
If you have'nt welded on a car before i'd suggest you practice on some scrap metal first, the trick with MIG welding is cleanliness, the metal to be welded must be bright and shiny, keep the power low for 20 guage steel and take your time welding in short runs.
quote]
Hi Mark,
I am just about to purchase the same mig welder which will be used mainly for car body work.
In your experience, what power/wire feed setting would you recommend for the 151 for panel work.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Been using one of these for the past five years or so and never had a problem, i use it without gas (some will swear by gas but i've always managed without) as it's one less thing to worry about, flux (gasless MIG wire is slightly more expensive than gas wire though), but this machine can be used with gas or without.
If my Clark 151 MIG broke tomorrow i'd just go out an buy another (if i could'nt fix it) as this one has more than paid for it's self and it's all i'll ever need for what i do.
If you have'nt welded on a car before i'd suggest you practice on some scrap metal first, the trick with MIG welding is cleanliness, the metal to be welded must be bright and shiny, keep the power low for 20 guage steel and take your time welding in short runs.
quote]
Hi Mark,
I am just about to purchase the same mig welder which will be used mainly for car body work.
In your experience, what power/wire feed setting would you recommend for the 151 for panel work.
Buy the best quality mig you can afford, if you can, get a shot of a £1-2k machine. You'll be surprised how much better your welding is. Quality is important. Got to agree about doing a course if possible, I've seen loads of people who are self taught, I am, but I got a lot better with proper instruction on how to set the mig up properly. IMO tig is a waste of time due to problems outlined earlier, plus Argon is expensive in comparison, I rarely use mine. I have a Sealey Supermig, it's ok, but limited like most "hobby" machines by lack of adjustment, 4 power settings is adequate but infinite adjustment of better machines makes a huge difference.
I managed to drop on an as new Murex Trade mig for 300€ with two reals of wire, two pub bottles of Co2 and a regulator with some other bits thrown in. Lovely bit of kit, only thing I don't like is it takes up a lot of space.
As the previous poster said, the difference a good quality welder can make to your welding is astounding. I used to work as a fitter in a food factory, this involved TIG welding a lot of stainless. One day we had a coded welder in to repair a pressure vessel, our 1/2 decent workshop scratch set had broken. The coded welder let me use his welder, the difference was astounding.
As the previous poster said, the difference a good quality welder can make to your welding is astounding. I used to work as a fitter in a food factory, this involved TIG welding a lot of stainless. One day we had a coded welder in to repair a pressure vessel, our 1/2 decent workshop scratch set had broken. The coded welder let me use his welder, the difference was astounding.
i'v had a Clarke 90en for nearly 20yrs and it still performs well.
something no one has mentioned is wire quality,use good wire.
had no joy with machine marts gasless or Halfords offering,they both spat like a fried egg.
I can recommend 'super6' 0.8 gasless from ebay,worlds apart.
also if using in a confined space get yourself a floor standing fan,not blowing at you but to move the air around and preferably out of the door.there are some nasty things in those fumes.
something no one has mentioned is wire quality,use good wire.
had no joy with machine marts gasless or Halfords offering,they both spat like a fried egg.
I can recommend 'super6' 0.8 gasless from ebay,worlds apart.
also if using in a confined space get yourself a floor standing fan,not blowing at you but to move the air around and preferably out of the door.there are some nasty things in those fumes.
I use a Sealey 235 Supermig, absolutely superb results. Not cheap but plenty of power and feed settings which is really handy for car work, I have a hobby mig and arc welder and they're pants in comparison. After all you get what you pay for, they aren't cheap but you never know you might find a good one second hand.
Like this:
http://www.alltoolsdirect.co.uk/sealey-235amp-prof...
Like this:
http://www.alltoolsdirect.co.uk/sealey-235amp-prof...
retropower said:
In terms of gas, another vote for straight CO2 pub bottles. On thin work (i.e. cars) CO2 is fine, no need for argoshield etc (this becomes necessary on thicker work) and my man charges £7 a bottle delivered (I get 4 at a time) with no hire charge, can't really complain at that!!
This is completely wrong, I'm sorry. The worst piece of advice possible for MIG welding.It is especially important to use the correct shielding gas with any welding because your life could depend on it. The integrity of the weld WILL be compromised with the wrong gas. A Co2 Argon mix of 5% or 10% CO2 content is what is required for automotive work because pure CO2 can affect the integrity of the steel either side of the weld. Put simply, the weld is too hot. Potentially it's really dangerous and if a CO2 shielded weld was obvious to visual inspection it's highly likely it would have become an MOT failure (in the same way brazing did)
For the record, the more penetration required, the more the CO2 content is increased. So for heavy industrial welding of mild steel, much higher CO2 content may be called for - but never pure CO2.
Edited by matt5791 on Tuesday 27th January 00:35
The perishing icon even looks a bit like me! It's probably a bit late now but I Have had a Clarke 100e for around twenty years now, - it's been reliable and I've mended many a car and other bits with it, building a trailer and thus inspired to build my own car, a minimalistic three wheeler with the two wheels at the front which is the only way to make one! The welder can cope with up to 3mm or so, and isn't bad on thin stuff either. Just remember that cleanliness is essential - welding on rusty metal is generally pointless and at worst dangerous. As regards economy, I use a commercial size cylinder rented from a friendly local equipment emporium. The gas lasts for ages, the only drawback being that the cylinder is a brute to move around if you have to , as I discovered when I welded up out ageing combi boiler! Must resolve to get a new one and not be so mean!
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