Best MIG welder for car work
Discussion
Guys,
Bought a Giulia Spider with lots of rust. Been told a mig is what I should go for, can you recommend something suitable and the ancillaries I need.. Such as best welding shield as well.. Thanks! I've never welded and am learning but need something good enough to so repairs on the Alfa.
Bought a Giulia Spider with lots of rust. Been told a mig is what I should go for, can you recommend something suitable and the ancillaries I need.. Such as best welding shield as well.. Thanks! I've never welded and am learning but need something good enough to so repairs on the Alfa.
My best advice is buy a proper gas and don't use the hobby bottles. The Clarke mig is not bad for hobby work I have the 151en which is a gas and gas less mig but don't use without gas. Practice before you weld properly but it is easy to learn and get a good mask, I use the auto darkening one.
I've been doing my own hoby/DIY welding for the last ten years now, it's one of the best skills you can learn, started out with a crappy cheap MIG with a live torch (not recommended, not easy to use or learn on), moved on to a SIP MIG, cant recommend the SIP as the wire feed never worked right (an well known issue on SIP's)
I can highly recommend this machine though.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Been using one of these for the past five years or so and never had a problem, i use it without gas (some will swear by gas but i've always managed without) as it's one less thing to worry about, flux (gasless MIG wire is slightly more expensive than gas wire though), but this machine can be used with gas or without.
If my Clark 151 MIG broke tomorrow i'd just go out an buy another (if i could'nt fix it) as this one has more than paid for it's self and it's all i'll ever need for what i do.
If you have'nt welded on a car before i'd suggest you practice on some scrap metal first, the trick with MIG welding is cleanliness, the metal to be welded must be bright and shiny, keep the power low for 20 guage steel and take your time welding in short runs.
Hope this helps
I can highly recommend this machine though.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Been using one of these for the past five years or so and never had a problem, i use it without gas (some will swear by gas but i've always managed without) as it's one less thing to worry about, flux (gasless MIG wire is slightly more expensive than gas wire though), but this machine can be used with gas or without.
If my Clark 151 MIG broke tomorrow i'd just go out an buy another (if i could'nt fix it) as this one has more than paid for it's self and it's all i'll ever need for what i do.
If you have'nt welded on a car before i'd suggest you practice on some scrap metal first, the trick with MIG welding is cleanliness, the metal to be welded must be bright and shiny, keep the power low for 20 guage steel and take your time welding in short runs.
Hope this helps
Have a look on mig-welding.co.uk
A couple of years ago, the consensus on there seemed to be the Snap-On/BOC/Cebora PocketMIG 140 was the bargain used buy. I really must learn what to do with mine...
On thin car panels, the lower end of the power range is more use than the top-end power.
A couple of years ago, the consensus on there seemed to be the Snap-On/BOC/Cebora PocketMIG 140 was the bargain used buy. I really must learn what to do with mine...
On thin car panels, the lower end of the power range is more use than the top-end power.
You can't go wrong with one of these, absolutely superb and it's made in the UK, a bit pricy but worth every penny. You can run a continuous weld on .8mm mild steel as it's adjustable down to around 15 Amps.
http://www.weldequip.com/portamig-mig-welders.htm
Check out the forum http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm
http://www.weldequip.com/portamig-mig-welders.htm
Check out the forum http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm
ERP welders are good value for money, they are sealey but without the stickers, £400 gets a 200amp version and the wire feed makes the clarke ones seem rather poor. I bought my 230amp one in 2002 and its performed faultlessly for the 11 years since, and the last 4 have been every day industrial level use.
In terms of the actual title question, well the best MIG I have used for car work is my ESAB 400 amp watercooled machine, it will control perfectly down to 20amps and can neatly butt weld 0.8mm to 0.8mm as a continuous seam, but will crank up and butt weld 15mm plate too! Downside is it was (actually a bargain!) £900 secondhand, and over £5k new!
In terms of gas, another vote for straight CO2 pub bottles. On thin work (i.e. cars) CO2 is fine, no need for argoshield etc (this becomes necessary on thicker work) and my man charges £7 a bottle delivered (I get 4 at a time) with no hire charge, can't really complain at that!!
In terms of the actual title question, well the best MIG I have used for car work is my ESAB 400 amp watercooled machine, it will control perfectly down to 20amps and can neatly butt weld 0.8mm to 0.8mm as a continuous seam, but will crank up and butt weld 15mm plate too! Downside is it was (actually a bargain!) £900 secondhand, and over £5k new!
In terms of gas, another vote for straight CO2 pub bottles. On thin work (i.e. cars) CO2 is fine, no need for argoshield etc (this becomes necessary on thicker work) and my man charges £7 a bottle delivered (I get 4 at a time) with no hire charge, can't really complain at that!!
After struggling with a basic SIP MigMate 130 MIG set for years, and performing a couple of mods to the wire feed mechanism and circuitry to try and overcome its limitations, I'm going to try TIG for bodywork.
£285 buys a nice SIP TIG kit that gets good write-ups, and will go down to 10 amps for very thin metal. I've always fancied a go at TIG so I'm ordering one of these machines today:
http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-05266-weldmate-p178hf-t...
£285 buys a nice SIP TIG kit that gets good write-ups, and will go down to 10 amps for very thin metal. I've always fancied a go at TIG so I'm ordering one of these machines today:
http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-05266-weldmate-p178hf-t...
TIG works, but its not the whole answer I'm afraid.
You can do most work with it, but your fitting work will need to be extremely good, much better than with mig.
It doesn't reduce distortion either, although it does make welds that can be properly panel beaten afterwards, to sort the distortion out
You can do most work with it, but your fitting work will need to be extremely good, much better than with mig.
It doesn't reduce distortion either, although it does make welds that can be properly panel beaten afterwards, to sort the distortion out
retropower said:
TIG works, but its not the whole answer I'm afraid.
You can do most work with it, but your fitting work will need to be extremely good, much better than with mig.
It doesn't reduce distortion either, although it does make welds that can be properly panel beaten afterwards, to sort the distortion out
From what I gather it's better for very neat, precise welds. As you say, less forgiving of badly prepped joints, but then that will encourage better prep work rather than taking the "cheat" route of a big thick weld bead followed by dressing back with the grinder (which I've definitely resorted to before)!You can do most work with it, but your fitting work will need to be extremely good, much better than with mig.
It doesn't reduce distortion either, although it does make welds that can be properly panel beaten afterwards, to sort the distortion out
I'll be hanging on to my MIG as there will undoubtedly be times when it makes life a bit easier, but the neatness and accuracy of TIG appeals for bodywork welds.
Problem with TIG on thin material though it the material will still distort (maybe even more) as much as with MIG. As you only use filler with TIG when it's needed you need to have the metal very close in deed, touching. As you heat the metal it will distort and the weld will separate.
Personally, as much as I love TIG I'd use MIG for welding almost anything other than new material.
Personally, as much as I love TIG I'd use MIG for welding almost anything other than new material.
crossy67 said:
Problem with TIG on thin material though it the material will still distort (maybe even more) as much as with MIG. As you only use filler with TIG when it's needed you need to have the metal very close in deed, touching. As you heat the metal it will distort and the weld will separate.
Personally, as much as I love TIG I'd use MIG for welding almost anything other than new material.
ditto. We use tig for butt welding some repair panels, but only if there is access from the rear after, as it does tend to distort more than mig, but flattens better afterwardsPersonally, as much as I love TIG I'd use MIG for welding almost anything other than new material.
felixlighter said:
You can't go wrong with one of these, absolutely superb and it's made in the UK, a bit pricy but worth every penny. You can run a continuous weld on .8mm mild steel as it's adjustable down to around 15 Amps.
http://www.weldequip.com/portamig-mig-welders.htm
Check out the forum http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm
This. http://www.weldequip.com/portamig-mig-welders.htm
Check out the forum http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm
I have one and it's truely an excellent bit of kit. Work it flat out for weeks and it doesn't miss a beat. Then leave it in a corner for nine months and it fires up without protest or even a hint of dodgy wire feed. I also now have a self darkening mask and have no idea how I ever coped without one before!
I use Argon5 (or the Welsh equivelent) from this place: http://www.beergascymru.co.uk/beer-dispense-gas-pr...
I get it from the Wrexham Depot, not a million miles from Demon Tweeks.
The best value for the OP is either a welding course or paying someone else.
All this "practice with a few scraps" stuff is tosh. A weld might look ok, but in all likelihood is weak through poor penetration. I have done too much weld replacement on cars, bikes, and trikes over the years. learn properly first - and preferably learn to gas weld first.
All this "practice with a few scraps" stuff is tosh. A weld might look ok, but in all likelihood is weak through poor penetration. I have done too much weld replacement on cars, bikes, and trikes over the years. learn properly first - and preferably learn to gas weld first.
V8 FOU said:
The best value for the OP is either a welding course or paying someone else.
All this "practice with a few scraps" stuff is tosh. A weld might look ok, but in all likelihood is weak through poor penetration. I have done too much weld replacement on cars, bikes, and trikes over the years. learn properly first - and preferably learn to gas weld first.
I've wanted to learn for a long time and don't have time to do a course, plus it is going to cost £300. I have friends who know how to weld and can help me out when i run into difficulty. Plenty of people have learned without going on a course and although that would be a good thing to do it is not an option right now.All this "practice with a few scraps" stuff is tosh. A weld might look ok, but in all likelihood is weak through poor penetration. I have done too much weld replacement on cars, bikes, and trikes over the years. learn properly first - and preferably learn to gas weld first.
Up to you. Nothing to do with cost or time. It is to do with safety. Would you drive a car put together by someone who had practiced welding on scraps?
Perhaps outer body panels, but not structural - I'm still learning after 40 years of welding of all disciplines.
All I am saying is that I have seen far too many weld failures done by hobbyists.
Perhaps outer body panels, but not structural - I'm still learning after 40 years of welding of all disciplines.
All I am saying is that I have seen far too many weld failures done by hobbyists.
V8 FOU said:
Up to you. Nothing to do with cost or time. It is to do with safety. Would you drive a car put together by someone who had practiced welding on scraps?
Perhaps outer body panels, but not structural - I'm still learning after 40 years of welding of all disciplines.
All I am saying is that I have seen far too many weld failures done by hobbyists.
Lighten up!!Perhaps outer body panels, but not structural - I'm still learning after 40 years of welding of all disciplines.
All I am saying is that I have seen far too many weld failures done by hobbyists.
The welding I will be doing, at least initially, will not be structural. There is a sill to be done later down the line and I am confident I can get help from someone who knows what they are doing at that stage. Hobbyists all have to start somewhere but thanks for your advice.
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