Getting chrome ring off headlight on MGB!
Discussion
in some notes in a far off place it will say -
". never assume the parts, components and fixings on your car are the original or correct type or fitted correctly or working fully or correctly"
and
". don’t assume the part or component fitted to your car is/was the original or correct type or that it is fitted or working correctly, check and cross reference the information you have – and do the same when ordering parts or components, check and cross reference the information"
also dragged this over from other thread
". many problems can be solved by cleaning and/or lubricating parts and components – many elements of servicing, maintenance and repair can be basically cleaning and/or lubricating"
you'll also now understand -
". always allow lots more time than you think you’ll need and never be in a rush as lots of jobs take longer than expected"
welcome to the world of old cars
". never assume the parts, components and fixings on your car are the original or correct type or fitted correctly or working fully or correctly"
and
". don’t assume the part or component fitted to your car is/was the original or correct type or that it is fitted or working correctly, check and cross reference the information you have – and do the same when ordering parts or components, check and cross reference the information"
also dragged this over from other thread
nta16 said:
the Driver's Handbook ... will tell you how to change the bulb (to original parts fitted) - depending what's actually on your car you might have a screw that holds the chrome trim on, or it might instead be turn a little clock or counter clockwise and lift/prise off - as has been put protect your paintwork and don't force things in case the trim bends or you slip and cause damage to yourself or car
clean the bulb connector - if it looks clean without crud then just putting the bulb connectors in and taking them back out again can be enough
if you have original parts then try a modest spray of lubricant to perhaps wash out small muck and lubricate the area -clean the bulb connector - if it looks clean without crud then just putting the bulb connectors in and taking them back out again can be enough
". many problems can be solved by cleaning and/or lubricating parts and components – many elements of servicing, maintenance and repair can be basically cleaning and/or lubricating"
you'll also now understand -
". always allow lots more time than you think you’ll need and never be in a rush as lots of jobs take longer than expected"
welcome to the world of old cars
Edited by nta16 on Thursday 17th April 17:29
My recollection is that you could try releasing the reflector/lamp from behind? You should be able to do this without jacking the car up, provided you're not huge and/or immobile. But you'll probably find that everything has welded together with rust, and you'll have to buy new ones!
chrome trim comes off from the front, Darren note the possible slight turn of the trim before prising off if the chrome trim has baynet type lugs
as your mobile electronic device wont have the following, here for what might follow, stuff to have at home/garage -
". (thin) spray lubricant
. electrical contact cleaner
. electrical contact grease
. light oil
. penetrating/releasing fluid like PlusGas (ordinary WD40 is not that good)
. carb cleaning spray
. silicone lubricant (for rubber, nylon, etc.)
. anti-seize assembly compound (like copper grease)
. all-purpose grease (and gun)
. cheap artist brushes – to apply greases, etc.
. cleaning materials"
as your mobile electronic device wont have the following, here for what might follow, stuff to have at home/garage -
". (thin) spray lubricant
. electrical contact cleaner
. electrical contact grease
. light oil
. penetrating/releasing fluid like PlusGas (ordinary WD40 is not that good)
. carb cleaning spray
. silicone lubricant (for rubber, nylon, etc.)
. anti-seize assembly compound (like copper grease)
. all-purpose grease (and gun)
. cheap artist brushes – to apply greases, etc.
. cleaning materials"
Some trims are a push fit (e.g. TR6) and need prying off.
I have the same type on our TVR and I made up a tool to pry them off. Basically a bit of 15mm copper pipe, squash the end couple of inches in a vice and then bend over about 5/16" at the end to 90 degrees.
Insert bent bit behind trim and pull!
Obviously, don't do this if it's a screw on trim!
I have the same type on our TVR and I made up a tool to pry them off. Basically a bit of 15mm copper pipe, squash the end couple of inches in a vice and then bend over about 5/16" at the end to 90 degrees.
Insert bent bit behind trim and pull!
Obviously, don't do this if it's a screw on trim!
LordBretSinclair said:
Use a test lead to check if there is power to the bulb socket. If no power go back along the wire and check all the bayonet connections - they can get suspect over time particularly if the car isn't used much.
You can get one with an insulation piercing spike on (not sure what their called)Invaluable. Or the cheapo method is pushing a pin of needle through.
If you have power @ the bulb check the earth.
elephantstone said:
Got it off, changed bulb and still not working. Futher investigation over the weekend will be done. Luckily ive got a friend whos dad has 2 merc pagodas, MGA, 70's 911 who knows his way round classics for me to bug!
good idea to drive the caryou don't need your lickle hand holding on something like this - go back and read what I put in the previous thread - and tell Will I won the bet
I'll agree its a bloody hard job getting those chrome headlamp rims off, took me ages to get mine off today.
Mmm so it would seem nigel won the bet about the connections!
although the 2nd bulb could have blew 
I'd put money on the bullet connectors in behind the grille, they get battered by all the crap that comes off the road, might just need a clean? The problem I had with mine was both headlamps worked fine, however turn on full beam, it would work on one light but the other turned off
replaced these connectors and all was well 
, gotta love BL electrics!
Mmm so it would seem nigel won the bet about the connections!
although the 2nd bulb could have blew I'd put money on the bullet connectors in behind the grille, they get battered by all the crap that comes off the road, might just need a clean? The problem I had with mine was both headlamps worked fine, however turn on full beam, it would work on one light but the other turned off
replaced these connectors and all was well , gotta love BL electrics!Edited by Dbest92 on Friday 18th April 20:31
course I could be wrong and the replacement bulb could be faulty
and that could be in addition to any wiring/connection issues
DarrenB,
I always fine it funny that owners moan about old Lucas parts and the car's wiring - they seem to forget that in many cases these parts have been on the car working fine for decades so it's reasonable to expect wear, tear and ageing of them
it'd be interesting to see if any modern car's wiring and electrical components are still functioning in 20-50 years time
I will concede that perhaps a few more wires, circuits and fuses might have helped but everything got by without them
and that could be in addition to any wiring/connection issues
DarrenB,
I always fine it funny that owners moan about old Lucas parts and the car's wiring - they seem to forget that in many cases these parts have been on the car working fine for decades so it's reasonable to expect wear, tear and ageing of them
it'd be interesting to see if any modern car's wiring and electrical components are still functioning in 20-50 years time
I will concede that perhaps a few more wires, circuits and fuses might have helped but everything got by without them
I used to work on cars with these connectors when they were newish, the Lucas connectors often gave trouble back then due to corrosion. In my opinion a couple of pence worth of vaseline applied at the factory could have prevented the poor reputation of BL electrics.
Of course, proper sealed connectors would have done the same but that was asking too much back then, when cars were not even undersealed.
Of course, proper sealed connectors would have done the same but that was asking too much back then, when cars were not even undersealed.
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