Lead Loading

[velocemitch]

jith said:

Slidingpillar said:

You'll be surprised just how well a MIG welder can hole fill with a bit of practice. Forgotten how many holes I filled on my three wheeler restoration, but a lot. None were rust holes, all were to mount something.

Although I too bought a lead loading kit, I never used it as with the MIG and an angle grinder, I fixed all the holes properly. Lead loading kit came with a tin of solder paint, which I have since found to be an unbeatable tinning device. Handy as the prop-shaft is soldered (yes really).

I think you have to be clear on something. Lead loading is NOT for filling rusty holes. It was used in days gone by as a filling medium between panels where the join is designed to be secret or hidden. As most older cars would tend to flex on bumps, particularly those with separate chassis, the lead will not crack or fall out; nor will it shrink like some plastic fillers do. It is absolutely vital however that the flux is totally neutralised before anything else is applied otherwise a reaction will occur and it can take years before it does, but it will ruin your expensive paint job.

J

Not getting too hung up about the filling of the hole, that's not the issue here, the contamination is not just around the hole. Its the neutralising of the flux I'm concerned about. As I mentioned earlier I thought I had neutralised it. I guess the bottom line is I probably need to do it again, but how exactly do I go about it?.