Distributor Issues
Discussion
RicksAlfas said:
I wouldn't have thought so?
The electronic ignition conversion won't alter the mechanical tachometer drive if they are using your original distributor.
Ah ok, I see now. So by keeping the old distributor and simply converting that, it negates any need for the new rev counter. That sounds like the best plan then. Thank you.The electronic ignition conversion won't alter the mechanical tachometer drive if they are using your original distributor.
Mk3Spitfire said:
//j17 said:
Swapping to an electronic tacho from a 1500 Spitfire isn't a big deal. Look exactly the same and there's one on eBay at the moment for £20, so hardly a bank-breaker. Wiring simple too.
It's actually a 1300, but that shouldn't make too much difference should it?One thing I forgot though is that while the Mk IV/1500 have the same style of gauge so don't look any different before/after the swap the Mk 3 had a different style of gauge so won't look so original.
//j17 said:
Mk3Spitfire said:
//j17 said:
Swapping to an electronic tacho from a 1500 Spitfire isn't a big deal. Look exactly the same and there's one on eBay at the moment for £20, so hardly a bank-breaker. Wiring simple too.
It's actually a 1300, but that shouldn't make too much difference should it?One thing I forgot though is that while the Mk IV/1500 have the same style of gauge so don't look any different before/after the swap the Mk 3 had a different style of gauge so won't look so original.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-T120-TR6-SPEEDO-...
Would something like that work in my case? Its actually quite similar to a Mk3's dial. More so than the Mk4 dials.
Would something like that work in my case? Its actually quite similar to a Mk3's dial. More so than the Mk4 dials.
A little update:
The distributor has come back. Fully refurbed and converted to electronic. So ive slotted it in, plugged in everything I can remember, and fired it up. Nothing. I have taken some pictures which I'll upload when on computer next, but any thoughts? It turns over nicely but nothing more.
The distributor has come back. Fully refurbed and converted to electronic. So ive slotted it in, plugged in everything I can remember, and fired it up. Nothing. I have taken some pictures which I'll upload when on computer next, but any thoughts? It turns over nicely but nothing more.
probably just needs setting up, turn to get to timing to get started
car battery fully charged and all main connections in good condition, clean, secure and protected?
HT leads in correct firing order?
is there a good spark at each plug? if not what about from coil lead?
HT leads clean and in good condition, ends securely fitted and protected?
car battery fully charged and all main connections in good condition, clean, secure and protected?
HT leads in correct firing order?
is there a good spark at each plug? if not what about from coil lead?
HT leads clean and in good condition, ends securely fitted and protected?
Edited by nta16 on Friday 4th July 17:19
Thanks nta.
Ht leads are new and in good condition. I'm pretty sure the position is right but I didn't have the manual to hand. I'll double check it later.
I think the spark plugs are fine. They were with the old dissy and it was only a couple of weeks ago I checked them. Again, I'll double check when I get a chance.
Ht leads are new and in good condition. I'm pretty sure the position is right but I didn't have the manual to hand. I'll double check it later.
I think the spark plugs are fine. They were with the old dissy and it was only a couple of weeks ago I checked them. Again, I'll double check when I get a chance.
thanks to FRM for the very clear photo of the HT leads layout
the firing order is 1 – 3 – 4 – 2 anti-clockwise (counter clockwise, CCW) as you look at the distributor from above it (clearly shown in the photo, also note the short neatly fitted HT leads)
number one cylinder (far left of photo) is nearest to
. the radiator
. the front of the engine
. the front of the car
the firing order is 1 – 3 – 4 – 2 anti-clockwise (counter clockwise, CCW) as you look at the distributor from above it (clearly shown in the photo, also note the short neatly fitted HT leads)
number one cylinder (far left of photo) is nearest to
. the radiator
. the front of the engine
. the front of the car
Edited by nta16 on Friday 4th July 16:31
the distributor you took out was old and worn with a broken plate, you are replacing it with a new fully electronic conversion so the settings may not be the same
you should have got instructions of how to install the new dissy it maybe you now need to loosen off the clamping clamp and set the dissy slightly forward or backward to get it going then further adjust to get it running right - but consult the dissy rebuilders as I for one don't know exactly what you've got
after setting the timing you also need to check and possibly adjust your carbs mixture (this assumes your tappets are set well or fairly recently checked/adjusted)
always with staring problems you want a full charge battery in good condition and all major cables, etc., etc - put your battery on charge now to charge over night
a drained battery could disguise when you solve your problem by not having the power left to start the car
you should have got instructions of how to install the new dissy it maybe you now need to loosen off the clamping clamp and set the dissy slightly forward or backward to get it going then further adjust to get it running right - but consult the dissy rebuilders as I for one don't know exactly what you've got
after setting the timing you also need to check and possibly adjust your carbs mixture (this assumes your tappets are set well or fairly recently checked/adjusted)
always with staring problems you want a full charge battery in good condition and all major cables, etc., etc - put your battery on charge now to charge over night
a drained battery could disguise when you solve your problem by not having the power left to start the car
Edited by nta16 on Saturday 5th July 21:09
Ok, so my aforementioned mechanic friend from work came out to try and sort out my dissy issues today after a month or so of the car sitting in the garage.
He checked the dissy/rotor arm position etc etc and all seemed ok. He also used a volt-meter thing(?) to check the currant between the various components, and everything seemed good. Unfortunately however, the seems to be something wrong between the coil and the dissy. The power is going to the coil but it appears that there is no output from the coil. There were no issues with the coil when it had the points fitted, and he couldn't work out what else it could be. He is giving me a spare coil tomorrow which he knows works, just to negate this if nothing else. If it is not the coil, the only thing he could think of was that the dissy might be faulty?
Any ideas?
He checked the dissy/rotor arm position etc etc and all seemed ok. He also used a volt-meter thing(?) to check the currant between the various components, and everything seemed good. Unfortunately however, the seems to be something wrong between the coil and the dissy. The power is going to the coil but it appears that there is no output from the coil. There were no issues with the coil when it had the points fitted, and he couldn't work out what else it could be. He is giving me a spare coil tomorrow which he knows works, just to negate this if nothing else. If it is not the coil, the only thing he could think of was that the dissy might be faulty?
Any ideas?
Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff