The Range Rover Classic thread:
Discussion
Interesting and exciting puzzle for folks:
Headlights work perfectly well. But occasionally when you first start the car they won't come on. Main beam, side lights all work fine. Likewise, when running at night on mainbeam and you need to come off for an approaching vehicle, you then discover all the excitement of there being no lights bar side lights!!!
I've been testing various theories so when the lights stop working I've tried waggling wires under the bonnet, tried waggling the switch, tried turning the car on and off, tried flicking the relay, tried the walk away and return later and tried the hard stare at the front of the whole contemplating giving it a sound thrashing. So far all are delivering the same consistency in their results, which is that the lights just come back on when they want to.
Any thoughts other than I've bought female headlights by mistake?
Headlights work perfectly well. But occasionally when you first start the car they won't come on. Main beam, side lights all work fine. Likewise, when running at night on mainbeam and you need to come off for an approaching vehicle, you then discover all the excitement of there being no lights bar side lights!!!
I've been testing various theories so when the lights stop working I've tried waggling wires under the bonnet, tried waggling the switch, tried turning the car on and off, tried flicking the relay, tried the walk away and return later and tried the hard stare at the front of the whole contemplating giving it a sound thrashing. So far all are delivering the same consistency in their results, which is that the lights just come back on when they want to.
Any thoughts other than I've bought female headlights by mistake?
Sparky137 said:
Get a test meter and start at the relay. See if there is a voltage reading at the relay (dip) terminal. If there is check the headlight connectors for voltage. If there is no voltage at headlights then it looks like there is a problem in the loom between the relay and the headlights. If there is a voltage at the headlights its most likely an earth problem - but this is unlikely as main beam works.
If there is no voltage at the dip terminal of the relay but you can hear the relay switching its going to be a relay fault.
Its possible it could be corrosion on the relay connector. Don't just wiggle it, unplug it and have a look at its condition.
Indeed. The issue being getting the fault to appear and then remain long enough. If there is no voltage at the dip terminal of the relay but you can hear the relay switching its going to be a relay fault.
Its possible it could be corrosion on the relay connector. Don't just wiggle it, unplug it and have a look at its condition.
Swapped relays over, intermittent fault moves with it. Problem solved.
Confirmed by tapping relay and seeing lights flicker and it's cruddy inside around the base.
Edited by DonkeyApple on Wednesday 3rd May 06:43
I'll do the 500 miles to the Highlands a couple of times a year and a fair few 300 mile jaunts and it still surprises me how pleasant they are for covering long distances in a day. XJ6's from that era also remain remarkable long distance cars that can cut it today and they're even better on bad surfaces.
I was trying the other day to remember if there was something kind of knack to this.
Is the whole length of the cross member appearing to catch against the waist at the top of the door or snagging somewhere else?
I don't recall any issue just lifting them out once the bolts were removed.
Is the whole length of the cross member appearing to catch against the waist at the top of the door or snagging somewhere else?
I don't recall any issue just lifting them out once the bolts were removed.
Jammez said:
Hi Folks
Looking for some Pistonhead wisdom. I have a 1993 Vogue SE with a very dark brown interior. I'm trying to source some vinyl (or leather) to recover the central cubby box.
As with many of them it's broken in the usual places and there's no decent way to repair it without stripping the vinyl off and recovering (the vinyls damaged too so I can't even reuse it)
Does anyone know what the colour of that particular interior was called?
Many thanks in advance
James
Yes. I have the matching carpet and plastic trim in my car. And when I remember I'll let you know. Looking for some Pistonhead wisdom. I have a 1993 Vogue SE with a very dark brown interior. I'm trying to source some vinyl (or leather) to recover the central cubby box.
As with many of them it's broken in the usual places and there's no decent way to repair it without stripping the vinyl off and recovering (the vinyls damaged too so I can't even reuse it)
Does anyone know what the colour of that particular interior was called?
Many thanks in advance
James
Jammez said:
Just found a random reference to Bokhara after trawling loads of ads on Ebay. That ring any bells with anyone?
That's the dark brown plastic. There were a couple of colours for the dash and all that stuff. There was the dark brown plastic which was Bokhara. Then there was the dark brown leather and carpet, both almost a Bournville Chocolate sort of brown? I'm sure they had two different names.
I spent ages searching on EBay for all the Bokhara trim and the leather seats (common in an LSE and the carpet.
Unfortunately the range-rover-classic.com website appears to have gone and it's taken with it the huge resource where this information sat.
Jammez said:
Just found a random reference to Bokhara after trawling loads of ads on Ebay. That ring any bells with anyone?
Brain hasn't kicked in with the name as of yet but this is the very dark brown that I'm thinking of which I sourced from LSEs to put into mine:
If yours is the same then it might be worth asking Trevor at NationWide, as Jon suggested. Make you you speak to Trevor. He's a delightfully miserable sod who has re trimmed most Rangies that have been fully restored and while he may not know the name he may have a scrap from mine or another that he can reference to find you a replacement vinyl.
That said, while typing this I've just realised that you're talking about the centre console with the cubby as opposed to the seats? If so then that is a separate material again and was either dark grey or dark brown (Bakhara) and it might be easiest to just source a complete replacement. If that's the case then look for Danboats on eBay, he is brilliant, nice bloke, and breaks Rangies and seems to have pretty much everything you ever need. He may just have a whole unit in good condition.
akirk said:
NomduJour said:
Filibuster said:
I did not notice this... What exactly do you mean by doors bend out?
Door tops/window frames, meaning there’s a gap at the top. Filibuster said:
Me again (I seem to populate this thread lately ...)
After a short-ish family trip with the RRC (150 miles, 2.5h drive each way) I'm happy to report the AC is working an made the 35°C we had over the weekend just about bearable.
But damn those Morris Marina door handles get freaking hot in the sun 
This trip was somewhat a test drive to see weather the wife lets me take the RRC on family holiday duties in a couple of weeks to Italy and S.o.F.
One point that has come up are sun shades. She demands something for the little one in the back.
Does anyone have found some good ones for the rear windows? Ideally I would like a set of 5 custom made ones (all windows from the B-pillar back) that clips into the frame and stay in place. I have found a company that has them for the P38 Range Rover or the Disco 1. No RRC unfortunately.
Which one do you recon would fit the RRC halfway? Apart from the rear window of the Disco 1 obviously...
Or does anyone else have a good solution? Tinting is not an option for me!
It was something I never found a good off the shelf solution for. Once the children were about 5 years old they had the fabric Sun shades in the foldable frames that were held on by suckers as they could move those about as they wished but the simplest solution for really young children is to just go full gangsta for a few years with some dark, removable tints. You're on the continent so won't look like an English caravan and coke punter unless your favourite driving shirt is an England football top?After a short-ish family trip with the RRC (150 miles, 2.5h drive each way) I'm happy to report the AC is working an made the 35°C we had over the weekend just about bearable.
But damn those Morris Marina door handles get freaking hot in the sun This trip was somewhat a test drive to see weather the wife lets me take the RRC on family holiday duties in a couple of weeks to Italy and S.o.F.
One point that has come up are sun shades. She demands something for the little one in the back.
Does anyone have found some good ones for the rear windows? Ideally I would like a set of 5 custom made ones (all windows from the B-pillar back) that clips into the frame and stay in place. I have found a company that has them for the P38 Range Rover or the Disco 1. No RRC unfortunately.
Which one do you recon would fit the RRC halfway? Apart from the rear window of the Disco 1 obviously...
Or does anyone else have a good solution? Tinting is not an option for me!
With long legs you definitely need a smaller steering wheel, which are easy to source but what you'll probably find is that you lack seat support under your thighs which causes discomfort on long journeys. However retrimming the seat with support or tilting the base back are options.
soxboy said:
Didn’t sell at auction, then listed as ‘buy it now for £28,750’
https://www.iconicauctioneers.com/1981-land-rover-...
Just seen it on flea bay with same auctioneers listed for 30th September sale for £15k. Seems far more realistic for works needed.
Rather a haircut, a sign of softening prices or less fools in the market?
Was discussing this with the chap who restored my car yesterday. Appears to be no real issue selling the really good stuff but pricing on the stuff that needs work or isn't top notch has pulled right back. https://www.iconicauctioneers.com/1981-land-rover-...
Just seen it on flea bay with same auctioneers listed for 30th September sale for £15k. Seems far more realistic for works needed.
Rather a haircut, a sign of softening prices or less fools in the market?
Suspect it's a general combination of people not wanting to borrow to get stuff and no one wanting to pay over the top for stuff that needs very costly work?
akirk said:
or simply that those with disposable cash to buy a non-necessary car are at the richer end and so if you are buying on you might as well have it fully done...
Absolutely. That's why the top stuff is still selling and at big prices. They're still sourcing the right project cars and carrying out restorations for those clients. RobXjcoupe said:
Morning all, I’m getting close to start a restoration and a question I’ve wondered was electric operated windows for a 2 door. I assume the csk version has electric power windows, did that use the same motor assembly etc as a 4 door?
Cheers for any advice
Hi Rob. Different, from memory. I suspect it's the system from a 2 door Disco that was used, vice versa. Cheers for any advice
You'll have standard drive flanges with the normal PCD. People will fit Ashcroft's heavy duty flanges if they're uprating the shafts. If I recall these have a different PCD. If that's the case then depending on what that PCD is it may be a solution for different wheels. Might be worth calling Ashcroft to get some info.
The normal bodge used is spacers which is a horrible solution as widening the track throws the geometry and frankly I wouldn't use them as the loads a Rangie exerts are quite a lot higher than an old mini, where Barry's Law dictates they must be fitted.
The normal bodge used is spacers which is a horrible solution as widening the track throws the geometry and frankly I wouldn't use them as the loads a Rangie exerts are quite a lot higher than an old mini, where Barry's Law dictates they must be fitted.
Visually, I think 16s look best but the issue I have is that they restrict the size of brakes you can run and the choice of tyre has been getting smaller and smaller over the last 20 years. With 18s all these niggles go away but then you get PCD issues and all too often challenging looks.
The other aspect that has annoyed me over the years is that anyone who has delivered a viable 18 solution has always consulted with Carlos Fandango. Latest case in point being Twisted's alloy Rostyle which requires tyres fat enough to make Kevin in Watford blanche. Not everyone wants to monster truck their vehicle and look like a Deep South cattle frotter.
All I want for Christmas is an 18" tubeless, alloy Rostyle in 8J with factory standard PCD and offset.
The other aspect that has annoyed me over the years is that anyone who has delivered a viable 18 solution has always consulted with Carlos Fandango. Latest case in point being Twisted's alloy Rostyle which requires tyres fat enough to make Kevin in Watford blanche. Not everyone wants to monster truck their vehicle and look like a Deep South cattle frotter.
All I want for Christmas is an 18" tubeless, alloy Rostyle in 8J with factory standard PCD and offset.
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