The Range Rover Classic thread:
Discussion
That'll look really nice.
I'm still toying with changing the colour of mine but I think I'll wait until all the late trim is off and the original trim back on to see how it looks. It was originally Lincoln Green but I've always quite liked Sahara Dust.
It's a kind of Ardennes Green at the moment:
But I always liked the Cumberland Grey of my old LSE but I'm not sure the colour would work with the old trim:
I'm still toying with changing the colour of mine but I think I'll wait until all the late trim is off and the original trim back on to see how it looks. It was originally Lincoln Green but I've always quite liked Sahara Dust.
It's a kind of Ardennes Green at the moment:
But I always liked the Cumberland Grey of my old LSE but I'm not sure the colour would work with the old trim:
I quite like it and traditionally I prefer my cars in dark green or burgundy. I'm going to have to see what it looks like when it has all the original 1972 exterior trim back on it. I just have a feeling that it might not look right. The current paint job was also done properly with the panels coming off and the correct rebeading so it would seem a waste. I also have an unused dark chocolate interior from an LSE to go in it so the colours currently match.
The wheels have grown on me. They are period and at 7J I will be using them as the Rostyles are 6J and you just can't get a good quality, performance road tyre for them and I've not been able to find a quality company that will weld the bolt plate/front of a Rostyle into a modern steel rim.
The wheels have grown on me. They are period and at 7J I will be using them as the Rostyles are 6J and you just can't get a good quality, performance road tyre for them and I've not been able to find a quality company that will weld the bolt plate/front of a Rostyle into a modern steel rim.
martin mrt said:
Donkey apple, your LSE is RRC porn in my opinion, if it's a soft dash, it would be perfection.
iirc it was a softy.I agree, best option out there, 570 soft dash LSE. I'd love one.
eta, nope wrong again. Lovely all the same.
http://www.bramley.com/stock/details.asp?stockID=9...
DKL said:
martin mrt said:
Donkey apple, your LSE is RRC porn in my opinion, if it's a soft dash, it would be perfection.
iirc it was a softy.I agree, best option out there, 570 soft dash LSE. I'd love one.
eta, nope wrong again. Lovely all the same.
http://www.bramley.com/stock/details.asp?stockID=9...
They've still got the details of my old car up: http://www.bramley.com/stock/details.asp?stockID=9...
In some regards I regret selling it but it was difficult to park in our garage in London and I was offered a stupid price. And even though it had had a hugely expensive buy and bolt resto, the chap who commissioned it has a reputation for getting ripped off and it was beginning to look like the people who had done the work may have cut some corners.
After years of being warned the inner sills on my RRC were on the way out and doing nothing about it, it was thrown out the mot station earlier as they after some poking its become apparent that well, it does'nt have any inner sills, apart from the body mounting brackets, they have completely disapeared.
My crack welder is attacking it next week but there are loads of differnet companies doing repair sections, has anyone any recommedations?
My crack welder is attacking it next week but there are loads of differnet companies doing repair sections, has anyone any recommedations?
DonkeyApple said:
I quite like it and traditionally I prefer my cars in dark green or burgundy. I'm going to have to see what it looks like when it has all the original 1972 exterior trim back on it. I just have a feeling that it might not look right. The current paint job was also done properly with the panels coming off and the correct rebeading so it would seem a waste. I also have an unused dark chocolate interior from an LSE to go in it so the colours currently match.
The wheels have grown on me. They are period and at 7J I will be using them as the Rostyles are 6J and you just can't get a good quality, performance road tyre for them and I've not been able to find a quality company that will weld the bolt plate/front of a Rostyle into a modern steel rim.
Phil Holland at Twenty Ten is working with Weller Wheels to make up some 7J tubeless rostyles The wheels have grown on me. They are period and at 7J I will be using them as the Rostyles are 6J and you just can't get a good quality, performance road tyre for them and I've not been able to find a quality company that will weld the bolt plate/front of a Rostyle into a modern steel rim.
I believe they cut out the middle and weld it in to a brand new rim.
Will keep you posted...
squirdan said:
DonkeyApple said:
I quite like it and traditionally I prefer my cars in dark green or burgundy. I'm going to have to see what it looks like when it has all the original 1972 exterior trim back on it. I just have a feeling that it might not look right. The current paint job was also done properly with the panels coming off and the correct rebeading so it would seem a waste. I also have an unused dark chocolate interior from an LSE to go in it so the colours currently match.
The wheels have grown on me. They are period and at 7J I will be using them as the Rostyles are 6J and you just can't get a good quality, performance road tyre for them and I've not been able to find a quality company that will weld the bolt plate/front of a Rostyle into a modern steel rim.
Phil Holland at Twenty Ten is working with Weller Wheels to make up some 7J tubeless rostyles The wheels have grown on me. They are period and at 7J I will be using them as the Rostyles are 6J and you just can't get a good quality, performance road tyre for them and I've not been able to find a quality company that will weld the bolt plate/front of a Rostyle into a modern steel rim.
I believe they cut out the middle and weld it in to a brand new rim.
Will keep you posted...
What I really want is 17 or 18 inch modern steel rims so I can then have a wide choice of modern performance SUV tyres at sensible prices but also be able to fit larger brakes to the car.
[quote=DonkeyApple]
It was a hard dash. Got me the soft dash never did it. My sister had a Metro when we were kids and the Rangie soft dash just reminds me of that.
They've still got the details of my old car up: http://www.bramley.com/stock/details.asp?stockID=9...
In some regards I regret selling it but it was difficult to park in our garage in London and I was offered a stupid price. And even though it had had a hugely expensive buy and bolt resto, the chap who commissioned it has a reputation for getting ripped off and it was beginning to look like the people who had done the work may have cut some corners.
Are the people who did the work who I suspect they are?
I keep looking at and considering ' fully restored' classic 4 doors but would it be better/less expensive to buy a decent unrestored car and get it done . What should it cost to get absolutely everything sorted regarding rust? Is there a specialist anyone would recommend to do it?
It was a hard dash. Got me the soft dash never did it. My sister had a Metro when we were kids and the Rangie soft dash just reminds me of that.
They've still got the details of my old car up: http://www.bramley.com/stock/details.asp?stockID=9...
In some regards I regret selling it but it was difficult to park in our garage in London and I was offered a stupid price. And even though it had had a hugely expensive buy and bolt resto, the chap who commissioned it has a reputation for getting ripped off and it was beginning to look like the people who had done the work may have cut some corners.
Are the people who did the work who I suspect they are?
I keep looking at and considering ' fully restored' classic 4 doors but would it be better/less expensive to buy a decent unrestored car and get it done . What should it cost to get absolutely everything sorted regarding rust? Is there a specialist anyone would recommend to do it?
Donkey apple, what are those wheels on your green two door?
I'm currently restoring a 91 200 tdi range rover and am undecided to keep it the original colour or one I prefer. It's a dark bronzes redish colour with Gary interior. Il keep it to its period but may have it finished more to my liking. I must get some pictures up soon!
Great to see so many different styles of range rover on here!
I'm currently restoring a 91 200 tdi range rover and am undecided to keep it the original colour or one I prefer. It's a dark bronzes redish colour with Gary interior. Il keep it to its period but may have it finished more to my liking. I must get some pictures up soon!
Great to see so many different styles of range rover on here!
Donkey apple, what are those wheels on your green two door?
I'm currently restoring a 91 200 tdi range rover and am undecided to keep it the original colour or one I prefer. It's a dark bronzes redish colour with Gary interior. Il keep it to its period but may have it finished more to my liking. I must get some pictures up soon!
Great to see so many different styles of range rover on here!
I'm currently restoring a 91 200 tdi range rover and am undecided to keep it the original colour or one I prefer. It's a dark bronzes redish colour with Gary interior. Il keep it to its period but may have it finished more to my liking. I must get some pictures up soon!
Great to see so many different styles of range rover on here!
nickod said:
That Overfinch is the nicest RRC I've ever seen I think. The interior is incredible.
It was lovely. Packed full of sound deadening and the leather was extremely high quality as was the fitting of it, no creases or tension at all. Whoever did the work was very skilled. I'm hoping to get the '72 to the same level. Benspickup said:
Donkey apple, what are those wheels on your green two door?
I'm currently restoring a 91 200 tdi range rover and am undecided to keep it the original colour or one I prefer. It's a dark bronzes redish colour with Gary interior. Il keep it to its period but may have it finished more to my liking. I must get some pictures up soon!
Great to see so many different styles of range rover on here!
They are a wolfrace wheel. I think called 'turbines'. They were used on a lot of the 70s/80s conversions. I'm currently restoring a 91 200 tdi range rover and am undecided to keep it the original colour or one I prefer. It's a dark bronzes redish colour with Gary interior. Il keep it to its period but may have it finished more to my liking. I must get some pictures up soon!
Great to see so many different styles of range rover on here!
Evening all. Firstly, hi to xjsracer44, aka Cliff. Really good to meet you and G today, and to see the full PH-points man cave and the contents of the surrounding area! I hope G didn't suffer too many after-effects from Vinny's impact!
So I liberated the MAF sensor and the two undersea relays from Cliff's car. Intended to take the ECU too, but the two bolts through the floor (as far as I can see those have to come out to remove the ECU?) had other ideas, and we weren't able to zip them off today, so that's on hold.
I moved mine over to my technical consultant's place this morning (ever hand-winched a non-running RRC uphill onto a Brian James breakneck trailer? I suspect my current level of aches will be x10 in the morning) and left it with him. I haven't delivered Cliff's MAF sensor nor the new ignition amp yet (tomorrow) but he's had a play around already.
Remember I said the plugs were wet? That statement may not have been 100% accurate. What I meant to say was the plug were wet. Yes, I only took one plug (number 2) out, and it was wet. However, matey took it upon himself to take the plugs out of 2/4/6/8, and apparently only 2 was wet; the others not.
When you think about the sound that the car makes trying to start, and then look at 1 plug wet out of 4, it's possible, is it not, that the slight coughing/firing sound we can hear is one cylinder firing, but the others not as there is actually no fuel getting in?
Apparently there is talk online of cars which mainly run on gas ending up with gummed up (petrol) injectors? Now, I know mine won't start on gas, it has to have some temperature in it before you can flick it over, so it must have had SOME fuel running through the petrol injectors, but this does seem to be a reasonable potential explanation of why it won't start doesn't it??
So we're now thinking we (he!) might have all the injectors out and set up a little test rig. If they all look a bit fubar, I gather there are options around overhauling yourself, or sending them off to be done?
So Cliff, we'll test your bits soon but they may be returning sooner than expected!
So I liberated the MAF sensor and the two undersea relays from Cliff's car. Intended to take the ECU too, but the two bolts through the floor (as far as I can see those have to come out to remove the ECU?) had other ideas, and we weren't able to zip them off today, so that's on hold.
I moved mine over to my technical consultant's place this morning (ever hand-winched a non-running RRC uphill onto a Brian James breakneck trailer? I suspect my current level of aches will be x10 in the morning) and left it with him. I haven't delivered Cliff's MAF sensor nor the new ignition amp yet (tomorrow) but he's had a play around already.
Remember I said the plugs were wet? That statement may not have been 100% accurate. What I meant to say was the plug were wet. Yes, I only took one plug (number 2) out, and it was wet. However, matey took it upon himself to take the plugs out of 2/4/6/8, and apparently only 2 was wet; the others not.
When you think about the sound that the car makes trying to start, and then look at 1 plug wet out of 4, it's possible, is it not, that the slight coughing/firing sound we can hear is one cylinder firing, but the others not as there is actually no fuel getting in?
Apparently there is talk online of cars which mainly run on gas ending up with gummed up (petrol) injectors? Now, I know mine won't start on gas, it has to have some temperature in it before you can flick it over, so it must have had SOME fuel running through the petrol injectors, but this does seem to be a reasonable potential explanation of why it won't start doesn't it??
So we're now thinking we (he!) might have all the injectors out and set up a little test rig. If they all look a bit fubar, I gather there are options around overhauling yourself, or sending them off to be done?
So Cliff, we'll test your bits soon but they may be returning sooner than expected!
DonkeyApple said:
Benspickup said:
Donkey apple, what are those wheels on your green two door?
I'm currently restoring a 91 200 tdi range rover and am undecided to keep it the original colour or one I prefer. It's a dark bronzes redish colour with Gary interior. Il keep it to its period but may have it finished more to my liking. I must get some pictures up soon!
Great to see so many different styles of range rover on here!
They are a wolfrace wheel. I think called 'turbines'. They were used on a lot of the 70s/80s conversions. I'm currently restoring a 91 200 tdi range rover and am undecided to keep it the original colour or one I prefer. It's a dark bronzes redish colour with Gary interior. Il keep it to its period but may have it finished more to my liking. I must get some pictures up soon!
Great to see so many different styles of range rover on here!
GM Cappo, aka Mark, it was a pleasure to meet you & Mrs Cappo, I hope it helps in your quest too get your car running.
Gary was fine, but he may have a few aches this morning.
No worries if you don't need to use the bits, hopefully you will be able to return them in a fully running RRC, I'd love to see it.
Keep us posted.
Best, Cliff
Gary was fine, but he may have a few aches this morning.
No worries if you don't need to use the bits, hopefully you will be able to return them in a fully running RRC, I'd love to see it.
Keep us posted.
Best, Cliff
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