The Range Rover Classic thread:
Discussion
squirdan said:
Looks q nice. No affiliation
Look at this on eBay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252726286620
Range Rover 1971 Classic 2 Door Suffix A
I think that's what you'd call "proper". Very nice indeed. Look at this on eBay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252726286620
Range Rover 1971 Classic 2 Door Suffix A
Update time!
Well, we have a running Rangie, of sorts, courtesy of my own version of Edd China.
You remember the bit about not all the plugs being wet? He stripped out the fuel rail and injectors and rigged them up to test, and they were all squirting happily, so they went back in. He put a brand new set of NGKs in, and it is now running, and running nicely apparently, although it still takes some churning over to get it to start. So. we're half way there. He also fitted Cliff's MAF sensor (a proper original Lucas one) and said it ran significantly better with that on. Still got an ignition amp to add to the mix (the distributor is a sod to get at, with the a/c comp and alternator in the way - anyone know any good tricks for that?)
He thinks the cold start problem might be down to it actually pumping too much fuel in; he says it smells really rich when it first starts. I seem to recall that the ECU takes temperature feeds from the water temp sender, and that there is also a fuel temp sender/sensor? Anyone know where that is located? And is it likely to be at fault?
As always, two steps forward, one step back. He said the brakes weren't working, and I remembered that the power supply plug to the (ABS?) pump had been a bit dodgy, so he cleaned that up and reconnected but immediately the wires starts getting hot, so there is a short somewhere, or the pump is drawing too much current for some reason. Can those get stuck? (the pumps?). The ABS pump is one of the myriad things which has been changed on it, it's still bright & shiny, but I have a suspicion that Britpart may have done rather well out of the previous owner, so quality might be an issue. Will have to look at that, I don't know whether it's a repair or another replacement?
In the meantime I do need to find a genuine MAF sensor, so if anyone has one they'd like to part with, or can point me at somewhere that does, I'd appreciate that.
Going over to have a look for myself at the weekend so we'll see what's what and I'll report back further.
Well, we have a running Rangie, of sorts, courtesy of my own version of Edd China.
You remember the bit about not all the plugs being wet? He stripped out the fuel rail and injectors and rigged them up to test, and they were all squirting happily, so they went back in. He put a brand new set of NGKs in, and it is now running, and running nicely apparently, although it still takes some churning over to get it to start. So. we're half way there. He also fitted Cliff's MAF sensor (a proper original Lucas one) and said it ran significantly better with that on. Still got an ignition amp to add to the mix (the distributor is a sod to get at, with the a/c comp and alternator in the way - anyone know any good tricks for that?)
He thinks the cold start problem might be down to it actually pumping too much fuel in; he says it smells really rich when it first starts. I seem to recall that the ECU takes temperature feeds from the water temp sender, and that there is also a fuel temp sender/sensor? Anyone know where that is located? And is it likely to be at fault?
As always, two steps forward, one step back. He said the brakes weren't working, and I remembered that the power supply plug to the (ABS?) pump had been a bit dodgy, so he cleaned that up and reconnected but immediately the wires starts getting hot, so there is a short somewhere, or the pump is drawing too much current for some reason. Can those get stuck? (the pumps?). The ABS pump is one of the myriad things which has been changed on it, it's still bright & shiny, but I have a suspicion that Britpart may have done rather well out of the previous owner, so quality might be an issue. Will have to look at that, I don't know whether it's a repair or another replacement?
In the meantime I do need to find a genuine MAF sensor, so if anyone has one they'd like to part with, or can point me at somewhere that does, I'd appreciate that.
Going over to have a look for myself at the weekend so we'll see what's what and I'll report back further.
Great news!! 
The water temp sender is on the front, top right of the inlet manifold. Not far from the oil filler cap. You can do it in situ with some paper towel around it if you are quick. It has a square two prong plug on the top. If you find a different one with a spade type connector, that's for the gauge and not the ECU.
The fuel temp sender is on the fuel rail.
The water temp sender is on the front, top right of the inlet manifold. Not far from the oil filler cap. You can do it in situ with some paper towel around it if you are quick. It has a square two prong plug on the top. If you find a different one with a spade type connector, that's for the gauge and not the ECU.
The fuel temp sender is on the fuel rail.
Great progress. Excess fuel will kill off the plugs so that might be why it gets worse over time.
Re the MAF is it a 3am or 5 you need? I saw a rare 3 on EBay last week. Think this was it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401251879949
Re the MAF is it a 3am or 5 you need? I saw a rare 3 on EBay last week. Think this was it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401251879949
RicksAlfas said:
Great news!!
The water temp sender is on the front, top right of the inlet manifold. Not far from the oil filler cap. You can do it in situ with some paper towel around it if you are quick. It has a square two prong plug on the top. If you find a different one with a spade type connector, that's for the gauge and not the ECU.
The fuel temp sender is on the fuel rail.
The water temp sender is on the front, top right of the inlet manifold. Not far from the oil filler cap. You can do it in situ with some paper towel around it if you are quick. It has a square two prong plug on the top. If you find a different one with a spade type connector, that's for the gauge and not the ECU.
The fuel temp sender is on the fuel rail.
Is it/am I correct that the ECU takes temperature feeds from both? Early in my ownership I noticed that the water temp cable was not connected, back then I thought I had another quick win just like the ignition amp earth! I'll ask him about the fuel one, he should know if he's had that off. I guess I could whack in a new sender anyway.
DonkeyApple said:
Great progress. Excess fuel will kill off the plugs so that might be why it gets worse over time.
Re the MAF is it a 3am or 5 you need? I saw a rare 3 on EBay last week. Think this was it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401251879949
I'm afraid I don't have a clue! I can check what Cliff's one is tomorrow (I know it's a Lucas). What's the difference between the two?Re the MAF is it a 3am or 5 you need? I saw a rare 3 on EBay last week. Think this was it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401251879949
Any thoughts on the other two things, the distributor removal (do I really have to pull the a/c comp and alternator out first?) and the ABS pump? "Edd" thinks the pump could be stuck?
They flow different amounts of air I think. So the 3am one is for the 3.5 and quite rare now and the 5am is for the bigger engines and easier to get hold of. I can't recall if 3.9s had the 3ambor 5 or started with the 3 for a while.
They aren't that common on EBay so worth finding out ASAP.
They aren't that common on EBay so worth finding out ASAP.
Brief update - drove the rangie for the first time this week, now that the air suspension is fixed, so nice to be back in a classic RR, v8 burbling away up front and lovely leather chairs...
Few tweaks and MOT, then build a list of what needs doing
Few tweaks and MOT, then build a list of what needs doing
Edited by akirk on Friday 20th January 22:22
akirk said:
Brief update - drove the rangie for the first time this week, now that the air suspension is fixed, so nice to be back in a classic RR, v8 burbling away up front and lovely leather chairs...
Few tweaks and MOT, then build a list of what needs doing
That is lovely!!! It just needs a set of proper Range Rover mud flaps to make it perfect. Few tweaks and MOT, then build a list of what needs doing
Edited by akirk on Friday 20th January 22:22
CAPP0 said:
Is it/am I correct that the ECU takes temperature feeds from both? Early in my ownership I noticed that the water temp cable was not connected, back then I thought I had another quick win just like the ignition amp earth! I'll ask him about the fuel one, he should know if he's had that off. I guess I could whack in a new sender anyway.
Any thoughts on the other two things, the distributor removal (do I really have to pull the a/c comp and alternator out first?) and the ABS pump? "Edd" thinks the pump could be stuck?
Yes, the ECU takes a signal from both. You can see it on Rovergauge. The coolant one especially can fur up and even disintegrate so it's worth swapping. Any thoughts on the other two things, the distributor removal (do I really have to pull the a/c comp and alternator out first?) and the ABS pump? "Edd" thinks the pump could be stuck?
Not sure about the distributor access as I don't have AC on mine, but without AC you don't have to remove anything to pull the distributor. It's still not easy to get to mind, especially when I've been used to simple four pots where it's just stuck on the side!
Can't help on the ABS pump I'm afraid. It should pump up within about 15 seconds of the ignition going on. You can hear it from the driver's seat. There is an accumulator which looks like a toilet ballcock and they can leak, or as in my case you could have a brake fluid leak between the two. I believe the pumps can be rebuilt and there are online guides for it.
Having chosen the colour for my restomod - RAL 7005 - bit like Keswick green - the next step is the interior
Leather for seats with matching vinyl for door cards and cubby box
Nationwide via the ever helpful Phil Holland of Twenty Ten sent me these samples
I'm thinking the darker one "saddle tan"
Leather for seats with matching vinyl for door cards and cubby box
Nationwide via the ever helpful Phil Holland of Twenty Ten sent me these samples
I'm thinking the darker one "saddle tan"
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