Paint or Poly/Powdercoat?

[Mr_B]

Thanks for taking time to reply. I have used NSP before, just the once and said I wouldn't go back.
Anyone got an opinion on these people ? http://ctc-powder-coating.co.uk/

[80's Classic]

That's a shame. Sorry to hear. Will be keeping an eye on how you get on. I have some stuff that needs powder coating or similar in the future (once I pull my finger out). I'm not too far from Dartford too.

[Transmitter Man]

Talkwrench said:

I'd never powder coat suspension parts, subframes etc. One stone chip and there's a hole in the powder coating. Moisture creeps in and before winter is out, large flakes of powder coating are just waiting to fall off and reveal all that rust underneath.
The best longevity is achieved with fine media blasting, removing all rust etc. and leaving a fine etched surface. Then a couple of coats of a high zinc, self healing primer such as electrox is applied on the freshly blasted surface. Then a couple of coats of either 2k satin black or, if you prefer, an epoxy chassis paint to finish off. For belt and braces, coat the paint with a good clear underseal like Dynax. I have subframes treated like this that still look fresh after several years of hard use.

This.

Plus, as I used to manage a professional powder coating plant I can confirm that the powder does not always gets into every nook and cranny. You're sometimes fighting with it to get an even coat 'everywhere' across the substrate.

Try and find a metal finishing shop that can carry out all the work for you similar to a production line. Freshly blasted metal can oxidize in no time at all. Blast (fine iron grit on steel) > zinc metal spray or hot dip if solid suspension parts > primer > 2K. Will last forever with better than nice finish.

Phil