What is the latest thoughts / products for treating rust
Discussion
The pug is showing signs of tin worm underneath. Few bits will need cutting out and replacing, but the majority of the underside just needs the grime, loose paint and surface rust remoing, then new treatment.
Currently leaning towards using POR15, then a top coat of grey for the underside?
Unless there are any new miracle products out there?
Currently leaning towards using POR15, then a top coat of grey for the underside?
Unless there are any new miracle products out there?
I've used bilt Hamber hydrate 80 on the Lancer turbo and although the prep work removing all the oil, grease and dirt etc can be a pain, I really can't fault the product itself.
It does come up black though, as it is more like a paint, but it still looks fairly good. I then went over it with the Bilt Hamber clear Dynax which is absolutely brilliant as a product and clear underseal. Although aesthetically it's not "showroom" or particularly neat under there, as the car is a useable classic, the Hydrate 80 really came up trumps.
A couple of tips though, if you decide upon using the Hydrate 80, always wear surgical gloves when applying, make sure you have plenty of paintbrushes and I used old aerosol plastic tops to pour what I needed in, as you can't return it to the bottle once it's been "tainted" as it activates when in contact with metal and rust. Also, for all that is holy, don't get it in your hair, it's like chewing gum. I ended up getting a "short back and slap" after I gave up on trying to remove it, yep, it really is that bad.
It does come up black though, as it is more like a paint, but it still looks fairly good. I then went over it with the Bilt Hamber clear Dynax which is absolutely brilliant as a product and clear underseal. Although aesthetically it's not "showroom" or particularly neat under there, as the car is a useable classic, the Hydrate 80 really came up trumps.
A couple of tips though, if you decide upon using the Hydrate 80, always wear surgical gloves when applying, make sure you have plenty of paintbrushes and I used old aerosol plastic tops to pour what I needed in, as you can't return it to the bottle once it's been "tainted" as it activates when in contact with metal and rust. Also, for all that is holy, don't get it in your hair, it's like chewing gum. I ended up getting a "short back and slap" after I gave up on trying to remove it, yep, it really is that bad.
I recently used some 'heavy duty rust converter' by a company called 'Granville'
Bought it from Frost.co.uk
Pretty impressed! Takes a few coats, dries rock solid and goes a black/waxy kind of colour. I did my jacking points and the painted straight over it with hamerite silver. Looks good and felt solid!
Bought it from Frost.co.uk
Pretty impressed! Takes a few coats, dries rock solid and goes a black/waxy kind of colour. I did my jacking points and the painted straight over it with hamerite silver. Looks good and felt solid!
I would second the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, although I have only recently started to use it; coincidentally by reading another thread on PH !
As with all modern paints, I am a bit suspicious of any water based paint ( which most is nowadays) as by its very nature you are introducing water into an area where you are trying to exclude it !
But by all accounts the product is good, as has been said I use a separate container to prevent cross contamination.
Time will tell.
As with all modern paints, I am a bit suspicious of any water based paint ( which most is nowadays) as by its very nature you are introducing water into an area where you are trying to exclude it !
But by all accounts the product is good, as has been said I use a separate container to prevent cross contamination.
Time will tell.
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