Rover P4 - Stored in garage for over 20 years.

Rover P4 - Stored in garage for over 20 years.

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Discussion

c_dug

Original Poster:

18 posts

169 months

Monday 15th June 2015
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About time for an update, though not much to update upon, more to ask advice!

We've been back to the car twice since my last post, apart from giving it a well needed wash we've not made much in the way of progress. We've tried a serious amount of force through the crank handle, and also putting the car into gear and rocking it backwards and forwards. Alas, the engine still wont budge!

We've removed the fan belt from the engine to remove any chance of it being the cooling system pump or dynamo preventing the engine turning. The only external thing still connected up is the starter motor, what are the chances of that being so buggered it completely stops the engine moving?

Assuming it isn't the starter motor I guess my next bet is to go in from the bottom and tap out the pistons. Anything we should be aware of here?

The plan very loosely is to drop the oil and any remaining coolant, remove the sump with the engine in place, then remove the con-rod caps and tap the pistons out of the top. We can then begin to inspect the condition of the bores and go from there.

Anything we are likely to face snags with? Anything else worth checking before removing the sump?

Thanks


rambo19

2,743 posts

138 months

Monday 15th June 2015
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Starter might be jammed on the ring gear, but I doubt it.

My dad had a rolls royce B40 engine with the same problem, this is what he did;

Get someone to try and turn the crank with the starting handle, and at the same time, tap the top of the piston with a block of wood and a hammer. The shock may free the rings.

Xpuffin

9,209 posts

206 months

Monday 15th June 2015
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[quote=Xpuffin]If you can get oil pressure by some mechanical means prior to rotating the engine you could well save the shells.
It could just be gummed up. (Get the dizzy out and you should be able to access the oil pump drive and put a drill on it. Fill the sump with flush and run for a while, then a nice thin oil to try and force new stuff through the journals and oil ways ((unless I've got my engines wrong))
Also later down the road replace the fuel lines and flush the petrol tank before you try to run it.

Rule of thumb with old engines/cars is to avoid undoing as many studs, bolts and screws as possible unless you absolutely have to.

Keep the diesel coming too, time is your friend

larrylamb11

588 posts

252 months

Tuesday 16th June 2015
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A seized distributor can also give the appearance of a seized engine. Worth checking.

HustleRussell

24,729 posts

161 months

Tuesday 16th June 2015
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Can you get a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt? I bet it'd shift in no time with a two foot bar and a scaffolding tube.