Anyone live in Germany?

Anyone live in Germany?

Author
Discussion

mko9

2,366 posts

212 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
I'm an American, not a Brit. So take whatever I say with a pinch of salt? Been here for about 6 months, here what I have noticed:

The Good:
- Driving on the autobahn is obviously great, for the most part. Less amazing as you get in and around larger cities. Lots more traffic, few/no derestricted zones, etc.
- The beers are good, I have always loved a good fest beer or marzen. And you get a lot of Belgian beer influence. I am not a wine drinker, but I understand they are pretty good too.
- Our house has underfloor heating, and it is the greatest thing ever. I guess that is fairly common, but not ubiquitous.

The Bad:
- EVERYTHING is closed on Sunday. Pretty much gas stations and small, family owned restaurants are about the only exceptions.
- My limited experience with the trains, in and out of Frankfurt airport, are that they are completely unreliable. I gave up on them after a few tries. If we need to go to the airport, we drive. I would extrapolate that to the rest of the train network, but actually haven't had reason to try that yet.
- The variety of food in the broad area we live - about an hour from France, Luxenbourg, etc - is terrible. Mostly schnitzel, wurst, kebab, and pizza. There is a huge American military precense around here, so I would have expected Mexican, Korea, Japanese, Thai, etc, but prety much none of that.

Tax implications. Hearsay, but my wife works with some RAF folks. One in particular has been stationed overseas for several years now. He said because of Brexit it will be extraordinarily painful when he gets transferred back. He said will get taxed on virtualy everything he owns, as if he just bought it and paid no VAT. If your company has offices in Germany, I assume they are well aware of issues. And I am not a Brit, so I really have no idea of the issues. But make sure you are fully informed of the issues before you commit.

Lyons

132 posts

284 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
JMGS4 said:
Been living in Germany for nearly 50 years now. Here's my take...

Towns: avoid anything over 50000 population, (where they don't even know how to say good morning without glowering at you as if you're trying to mug them). Lived in Berlin for 10 years when it was still civilised (before the Wall fell), was good but was much younger then. If you're going to have to be based in a large city, try to live outside, somewhere smaller, and check your public transport into town (some don't run late)

People: Try to join a club (Verein), hiking, choir, music, sports... you'll find you'll get accepted much sooner, especially in a small town/village... language, try to speak german, trying is the operative word, they accept that and may well reply in a better English!!!

Traffic: getting bad in larger areas, used to be able to run speeds higher than 250kph, now rare purely due to poor Autobahns (a lot of 2-laners) and huge amounts of trucks, as Germany is Europe's largest transit country N/S and E/W!!
Beware of mad cyclists, not quite as bad as London but getting there!
Gatsos and equivalent are getting slyer but you MUST be photographed from the front identifying the driver.

Trains: used to be punctual, and ran to the minute... NOT that way now...

Airports: Greens and socialists trying to make it illegal to use planes for internal flights and force you to travel by train (unreliable, see above) Expect the Government to increase a boarding tax for ALL flights soon!!!

Work: depends on the branch, but usually conditions far better/stable than UK.. but change is taking place especially where AI could/will be used. If you have a qualified trade you'll be more needed than most degree qualified people. Pay usualy is 13 months (1/2 month Christmas pay 1/2 month summer pay). Pension/Tax/Medical all taken out before you see it. Private Medical insurance is to be recommended!

Sports: they don't know anything (almost) about sports unless it's soccer.... unless of course a german marbles team is playing in Fiji, then of course you'll get TV coverage (joke). BUT Germany is the Ice Hockey vice world champion and NOT A SINGLE GAME was on D-TV!!! Disgraceful!!!

Food: oop North not much variety (German food) but plenty of other national foods.
German bread is probably the best anywhere, the variety is massive, none of that ghastly white bread as in the UK!!
Fish good in north, otherwise poor fish distribution throughout. Southwest food VERY good due to French, Swiss, and Italian influences. Asian foods mostly poor, mostly generic seemingly run by chinese from Holland with godawful buffets and standardised sauces....and asian standards of hygiene!

Shopping: food shopping good, avoid the chainstore bakers, very good butchers (again avoid chains), clothing styles getting more european. Decent shoes a problem, I have to get my shoes from GB, otherwise overpriced asiatic junk. Shirts fine provided you are prepared to pay, otherwise order from UK.
NB!! ALL shops closed on Sundays and holidays

TV: mostly state run, relatively poor translations, bring a freeview box and get a dish if you want British TV. TV license coast €154 p.A. includes screen use (computers) but they have no vans!!!

Internet: in general poor, vastly behind other EU countries (my upload is just 1MB, download around 12 MB, although cable is on my property they can't seems to be able to get it to my router, using a 60y.o. copper wire!!). May be better in large cities... Beware!!! Telekom gives all it's poorer connections to their competitors, have cases of this in my street where people went with Telekom's competitors and they had breakdowns regularly!!

Radio: Traffic news excellent, german pop rather boring, monotonous...

Bureaucracy: feckin mad!!! you can get sent from pillar to post..... you have to know your rights and tell them so if necessary. As a Brit now expect to be treated as if you were a beggar due to Brexit

Politics: avoid it, but keep your eyes and ears open. They're screaming about the right nowadays (rightly so) but as usual completely blind to left terrorism. The Greens and Socialists here are so far left they want to turn the EU into the EUSSR, and think that's democratic!

Economy: slowing down rather badly!!

Feel free to send me a PM if I can help!
Even though i've been here 6 years, I've leant something from your post smile . Germany can be a complex place to live

Lyons

132 posts

284 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
mko9 said:
I'm an American, not a Brit. So take whatever I say with a pinch of salt? Been here for about 6 months, here what I have noticed:

The Good:
- Driving on the autobahn is obviously great, for the most part. Less amazing as you get in and around larger cities. Lots more traffic, few/no derestricted zones, etc.
- The beers are good, I have always loved a good fest beer or marzen. And you get a lot of Belgian beer influence. I am not a wine drinker, but I understand they are pretty good too.
- Our house has underfloor heating, and it is the greatest thing ever. I guess that is fairly common, but not ubiquitous.

The Bad:
- EVERYTHING is closed on Sunday. Pretty much gas stations and small, family owned restaurants are about the only exceptions.
- My limited experience with the trains, in and out of Frankfurt airport, are that they are completely unreliable. I gave up on them after a few tries. If we need to go to the airport, we drive. I would extrapolate that to the rest of the train network, but actually haven't had reason to try that yet.
- The variety of food in the broad area we live - about an hour from France, Luxenbourg, etc - is terrible. Mostly schnitzel, wurst, kebab, and pizza. There is a huge American military precense around here, so I would have expected Mexican, Korea, Japanese, Thai, etc, but prety much none of that.

Tax implications. Hearsay, but my wife works with some RAF folks. One in particular has been stationed overseas for several years now. He said because of Brexit it will be extraordinarily painful when he gets transferred back. He said will get taxed on virtualy everything he owns, as if he just bought it and paid no VAT. If your company has offices in Germany, I assume they are well aware of issues. And I am not a Brit, so I really have no idea of the issues. But make sure you are fully informed of the issues before you commit.
my experience with the roads in the west is they always full with traffic and roadworks, and therefore not much fun. However between Berlin and NRW, or Berlin and Leipzig often empty and derestricted

Took a while to get used to nothing being open on the weekends though!


dan98

739 posts

113 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
Lyons said:
my experience with the roads in the west is they always full with traffic and roadworks, and therefore not much fun. However between Berlin and NRW, or Berlin and Leipzig often empty and derestricted

Took a while to get used to nothing being open on the weekends though!
I actually consider it one of the *best* things - nearly everyone genuinely slows down on Sundays...has a lie in, potters around, gets time with the family, goes for a walk/cycle, does f-all basically. The streets go beautifully quiet and it's like a proper reset each week.

Coming back to the UK where every day is the same makes me wonder how people don't slowly lose their minds.

JMGS4

8,739 posts

270 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
dan98 said:
Lyons said:
Took a while to get used to nothing being open on the weekends though!
I actually consider it one of the *best* things - nearly everyone genuinely slows down on Sundays...has a lie in, potters around, gets time with the family, goes for a walk/cycle, does f-all basically. The streets go beautifully quiet and it's like a proper reset each week.
RIGHT!! No damn lawnmowers starting up when you're wanting your postprandial snooze!

Lyons

132 posts

284 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
dan98 said:
I actually consider it one of the *best* things - nearly everyone genuinely slows down on Sundays...has a lie in, potters around, gets time with the family, goes for a walk/cycle, does f-all basically. The streets go beautifully quiet and it's like a proper reset each week.

Coming back to the UK where every day is the same makes me wonder how people don't slowly lose their minds.
Yes, i appreciate it now too. Though i do miss not being able to wash cars on Sunday. Or at my house for that matter...

Skeptisk

Original Poster:

7,477 posts

109 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
Lyons said:
dan98 said:
I actually consider it one of the *best* things - nearly everyone genuinely slows down on Sundays...has a lie in, potters around, gets time with the family, goes for a walk/cycle, does f-all basically. The streets go beautifully quiet and it's like a proper reset each week.

Coming back to the UK where every day is the same makes me wonder how people don't slowly lose their minds.
Yes, i appreciate it now too. Though i do miss not being able to wash cars on Sunday. Or at my house for that matter...
Reminds me of when our new American neighbours moved into the flat below us in Zurich. As I was walking into town on a Sunday I came across him washing his car - on the road! I gently cautioned him and he thanked me but carried on (probably thinking I was being fussy). Apparently 5 mins later a Swiss neighbour threatened to call the police if he didn’t stop!

vaud

50,509 posts

155 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
Skeptisk said:
Apparently 5 mins later a Swiss neighbour threatened to call the police if he didn’t stop!
Sounds about right for Switzerland. Lovely place but your neighbour will be the one to report you for speeding, leaving your bin out 2 extra hours, etc.

Lyons

132 posts

284 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
vaud said:
Sounds about right for Switzerland. Lovely place but your neighbour will be the one to report you for speeding, leaving your bin out 2 extra hours, etc.
On the upside, Switzerland is probably one of the few places in the world where Brits are universally more loved than Germans!

vaud

50,509 posts

155 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
Lyons said:
On the upside, Switzerland is probably one of the few places in the world where Brits are universally more loved than Germans!
True. I speak French and a tiny bit of German and never had an issue.

What amused me in Switzerland are the divides between Cantons, and even the divides within Cantons.

ChocolateFrog

25,357 posts

173 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
Skeptisk said:
I may have an opportunity to move to Germany with my employer.

Anyone living there? Pros and cons? Political it seems to be lurching to the right. Is that felt on a daily basis?
Spent 3 years there a few years ago.

The pros most definitely outweigh the cons.

JMGS4

8,739 posts

270 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
vaud said:
Skeptisk said:
Apparently 5 mins later a Swiss neighbour threatened to call the police if he didn’t stop!
Sounds about right for Switzerland. Lovely place but your neighbour will be the one to report you for speeding, leaving your bin out 2 extra hours, etc.
Actually it's also forbidden in Germany!!! I've my own house and a neighbour called the police because I was jet-washing my car ON MY OWN LAND!!!..... so I've a new jet-wash which I can't use!!! Something about polluting the groundwater.... Neighbour has moved so perhaps I can try it again!

Kev_Mk3

2,771 posts

95 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
JMGS4 said:
vaud said:
Skeptisk said:
Apparently 5 mins later a Swiss neighbour threatened to call the police if he didn’t stop!
Sounds about right for Switzerland. Lovely place but your neighbour will be the one to report you for speeding, leaving your bin out 2 extra hours, etc.
Actually it's also forbidden in Germany!!! I've my own house and a neighbour called the police because I was jet-washing my car ON MY OWN LAND!!!..... so I've a new jet-wash which I can't use!!! Something about polluting the groundwater.... Neighbour has moved so perhaps I can try it again!
Yep its law

generationx

6,748 posts

105 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
Yes the pros definitely outweigh the cons. I’ve lived in the outskirts of Cologne for over ten years and have even married a fantastic German woman! I really like it and, despite a looming job change possibly bringing me back to the UK, we’re trying to justify keeping our apartment there.

The Sunday closing/quiet thing, once you’re accustomed to it, is really rather nice.

Paperwork is always present, and getting registered into the German taxation/employment systems can be challenging when you first arrive. My company helped a lot. As for an English divorcee marrying a German woman…

In the bigger cities language is not a problem. My best German efforts are normally seen straight through and most people have a pretty good command of English.

Food and beer really depends on where you are, it’s a very “local” culture although less so in bigger cities.

I have been lucky to make many German friends both socially and through work, they are, by and large, lovely people. It does take a while for some of them to “get” English humour though, but this works both ways.

Cost of living is broadly similar for things like food, drinks, fuel etc. Car ownership is more complex.

The open speed limit can be fun, but there’ll always be someone faster than you - this is the land of “bahnstormers “ after all.

It’ll be interesting to hear where you end up going, there’ll be people on here that’ll have local knowledge.

Go for it, if you don’t try you’ll never know.

JMGS4

8,739 posts

270 months

Thursday 15th February
quotequote all
Skeptisk...
Just a couple of things to help you to understand Germans.... examples in my experiences over the last half century.....

1) Illustration from a lawyer who is now a senior judge here, to explain how complicated German law can be. He was theorising but the following could happen......
Germany had a match manufacturing monopoly (ended in the 70s) and it could well have happened that they'd ban the sale of their monopoly matches because....
someone threw a match on the street and another broke a leg falling over it....come to court and it might be thrown out BUT the German government would ban matches because they mustn't be held resposible for accidents... convoluted but very germanic!!

2) in my experience most civil servants (Beamte) seem always to want to hinder something instead of helping to realise it. They seem always to look for reasons NOT to allow it instead of trying to get it to work. And if German Law does not apply then they have all the unelecteds in Brussels who will no doubt also have a Law or Regulation that will not allow it!
Building is a nightmare, I had to deal with almost 20 different government and local government offices to build a house. So only buy a prebuilt house here, don't have a heart attack trying to understand german building regs. or their application!!!
Mind you not all Beamten are like that but a large minority are, as they seem to want a justification for their existance (as do a lot of jobsworths in France and the UK as well!) When you do find a Beamte who is actually helpful it's like a breath of fresh air!!!

3) on the same mentality a lot of Germans seem to have the opinion that unless something is specifically allowed, then it must be illegal!!!

4) On the VERY positive side however....
I was often on the road for my business and knew few in our village in the first years down here. My wife and daughter got on like a house on fire with the locals due to Kindergarten, schools, and local shops etc.
I got to know the villagers very fast when I was asked if I'd join the village male voice Choir. As all my antecedents had sung, I was a bit sceptical but joined and have now got my 25 year singing badge. Within a couple of weeks of joining the choir I knew half the village and couldn't walk down to my office without somebody waving to me, or hooting as they passed.... very friendly and some near and dear friends now.

Just a few thoughts and hope you make it here without too much hassle!! Get your employer to speak for you at any Ämter, especially now when qualified people are badly needed here!!!



Edited by JMGS4 on Thursday 15th February 19:10

Skeptisk

Original Poster:

7,477 posts

109 months

Friday 16th February
quotequote all
Thanks for all the comments.

Anyone know which internet sites are good for looking for accommodation? I know immoscout.

I don’t think I will be able to convince the wife unless I can show her decent flats or houses. Part of our problem is that we have a dog (bought when we living in our own house in the UK, before we started working abroad again).

For those who have lived in Berlin. What is it like being surrounded by the former East Germany. Is it really noticeable?

dan98

739 posts

113 months

Friday 16th February
quotequote all
Skeptisk said:
Thanks for all the comments.

Anyone know which internet sites are good for looking for accommodation? I know immoscout.

I don’t think I will be able to convince the wife unless I can show her decent flats or houses. Part of our problem is that we have a dog (bought when we living in our own house in the UK, before we started working abroad again).

For those who have lived in Berlin. What is it like being surrounded by the former East Germany. Is it really noticeable?
There's also Immowelt.de

Berlin is incredibly difficult right now to secure a decent apartment - imagine between 30 and 60 people fighting for the good ones (mostly with perfect documents and a proven history of renting in Germany). With a pet, this will become exponentially harder I'm afraid.
I would insist that your company finds you an acceptable place otherwise you will face months/years of struggle.

You'll never notice the the world outside Berlin unless you specifically venture out there - rest assured it's pretty 'gentrified' and you wouldn't run into any trouble unless you were looking for it IMO.

Skeptisk

Original Poster:

7,477 posts

109 months

Friday 16th February
quotequote all
dan98 said:
There's also Immowelt.de

Berlin is incredibly difficult right now to secure a decent apartment - imagine between 30 and 60 people fighting for the good ones (mostly with perfect documents and a proven history of renting in Germany). With a pet, this will become exponentially harder I'm afraid.
I would insist that your company finds you an acceptable place otherwise you will face months/years of struggle.

You'll never notice the the world outside Berlin unless you specifically venture out there - rest assured it's pretty 'gentrified' and you wouldn't run into any trouble unless you were looking for it IMO.
That sounds dispiriting. One of the reasons we are wanting to move from Copenhagen is that we can’t find any decent accommodation

dan98

739 posts

113 months

Friday 16th February
quotequote all
If you don't mind a bit of commuting I'd say the clusters of districts around Cologne would give a decent chance of scoring a nice affordable apartment / house.
It's also a fairly upbeat area which is easy enough for foreigners to get accustomed.

Kawasicki

13,084 posts

235 months

Friday 16th February
quotequote all
I live in southern Germany, moved here in 2015, so getting on for ten years now.

I really like it! Nowhere is perfect, but I’ve lived in a few countries and I will stay in Germany.

Why? It’s a prosperous region, friendly people, with great education (I have 3 kids), super low crime, low policing, amazing nature, great weather, fast road network.

Downsides is the bureaucracy, language, and the fact that the economy is suffering recently.