Oil usage, 2006 9-5 Aero
Discussion
I recently bought a 120,000 mile 2006 9-5 Aero. Lovely car, and now I have fixed the aircon and fitted new tyres and brakes. It is/was set to be my daily driver for the next 100,000 miles.
So I am puzzled about its oil consumption. Previous 9-5s (1998 and 1999) have used very little oil. This one has used 4.5 litres of 0w40 fully synthetic Mobil/Castrol in 4000 miles.
Yes, I do get a little blue smoke on cold start up first thing, which I put down to valve seals, but no other smoke and no leaks. Plugs are clean, oil is fresh (changed on purchase), but I have had the classic P1312 coil packs ECU code a few times.
Any thoughts?
Also, I may be spoiled these days by a 300 bhp TVR, but this 260 bhp Aero feels frankly sluggish to me. Overtaking trucks has to be planned rather than just done.
Could the two things be linked?
So I am puzzled about its oil consumption. Previous 9-5s (1998 and 1999) have used very little oil. This one has used 4.5 litres of 0w40 fully synthetic Mobil/Castrol in 4000 miles.
Yes, I do get a little blue smoke on cold start up first thing, which I put down to valve seals, but no other smoke and no leaks. Plugs are clean, oil is fresh (changed on purchase), but I have had the classic P1312 coil packs ECU code a few times.
Any thoughts?
Also, I may be spoiled these days by a 300 bhp TVR, but this 260 bhp Aero feels frankly sluggish to me. Overtaking trucks has to be planned rather than just done.
Could the two things be linked?
It could be oil consumption due to leakage at the turbo.
You would need to take some of the inlet pipes off and see if there is oil contamination inside.
As for performance. You need to talk to Karl (Noobtune) over on the UK Saabs forum.
A quick remap by him, and it will be quicker than the TVR.
You would need to take some of the inlet pipes off and see if there is oil contamination inside.
As for performance. You need to talk to Karl (Noobtune) over on the UK Saabs forum.
A quick remap by him, and it will be quicker than the TVR.
Thanks - I will either have a look myself, or take it to CVM Saab tomorrow when i am working about 3 miles from their workshops.
Last time I tried to use UK Saabs forums it didn't load - was that just me?
I do remember being mullahed by three Scottish members of UK Saabs on a Marham track day in 2012 - they were producing around 500 bhp each IIRC. I will track down Noobtune I think - thanks for your input
Last time I tried to use UK Saabs forums it didn't load - was that just me?
I do remember being mullahed by three Scottish members of UK Saabs on a Marham track day in 2012 - they were producing around 500 bhp each IIRC. I will track down Noobtune I think - thanks for your input
The engines are quite sensitive in terms of their vacuum systems and it is likely you have some dodgy vacuum hose or a dodgy APC etc.
There are a few things you need to check for, which are fairly well catalogued on UKSaabs. Start with boost leaks and split/perished vacuum hoses. The try the bolt mod (search on Google) as your one way valves might be shagged. Clean/try a replacement APC and check the bypass valve on the bulkhead by bypassing it (again search this as it takes an age to explain)
They are also very sensitive to fuel grade, spark plugs degrading and the ignition cassette causing misfires.
There are a few things you need to check for, which are fairly well catalogued on UKSaabs. Start with boost leaks and split/perished vacuum hoses. The try the bolt mod (search on Google) as your one way valves might be shagged. Clean/try a replacement APC and check the bypass valve on the bulkhead by bypassing it (again search this as it takes an age to explain)
They are also very sensitive to fuel grade, spark plugs degrading and the ignition cassette causing misfires.
You have me intrigued.
I have been getting the P1312 coil pack fault code (plugs 1&2) about every fifth journey, always on start-up. The plugs are nice and clean, so I will try a different coil pack. I was going to borrow the coil pack off my wife's 9-5, but I was at a breakers yard this afternoon getting a 5p Ford spring clip for my TVR (you have to buy the entire wiring loom from a Ford dealer), and he happened to have a 9-5 in stock, so I acquired a coil pack, correct part number, on sale or return for £15.
The rest of your suggestions might as well be in Swahili for all I understood, but that's my failing and I will do the reading you suggest and test everything. I assume these things relate to my oil usage issues. Even the breakers yard geezer doubted my turbo was the cause.
I have been getting the P1312 coil pack fault code (plugs 1&2) about every fifth journey, always on start-up. The plugs are nice and clean, so I will try a different coil pack. I was going to borrow the coil pack off my wife's 9-5, but I was at a breakers yard this afternoon getting a 5p Ford spring clip for my TVR (you have to buy the entire wiring loom from a Ford dealer), and he happened to have a 9-5 in stock, so I acquired a coil pack, correct part number, on sale or return for £15.
The rest of your suggestions might as well be in Swahili for all I understood, but that's my failing and I will do the reading you suggest and test everything. I assume these things relate to my oil usage issues. Even the breakers yard geezer doubted my turbo was the cause.
Merci Monsieur Moustache.
I looked at the bolt mod and can see how to do it, but thought I would check the vacuum pipes first. I found the top direct pipe from the throttle to the bulkhead valve had popped off at the valve end. Pushed it back on, reset the ECU codes, changed over the coil pack unit for the breakers yard one, started it up and went for a blast.
In conclusion, the third battallion of the Household Cavalry are back where they belong, stabled under the Saab's bonnet, and it now gets up and goes like someone has queried its parentage and run off down the road laughing in a 911.
Couple more questions if I may -
1. does the collective think that this will also cure my oil usage problem? 500 mainly motorway miles in the last two days, driving like Miss Daisy's great aunt, and about 2/3 of a litre has vanished. Not on the ground or visible out of the exhaust.
2. My coil pack has a small crack in the underside, between plugs 3 & 4, but my fault code is a misfire on 1 & 2. The replacement coil pack has the same crack. I have sealed it with a decent strong glue. So far no fault code. Does the crack matter?
3. My fuel consumption, mainly on cruise control on the A1, has been 30.5 mpg. Should I see this improve?
Thanks
Edited to add - P1312 fault code back this morning on start up. Either I have two coil packs with the same fault, or perhaps a set of new plugs are called for? Even though they look fine, I think that's a good place to start.
I looked at the bolt mod and can see how to do it, but thought I would check the vacuum pipes first. I found the top direct pipe from the throttle to the bulkhead valve had popped off at the valve end. Pushed it back on, reset the ECU codes, changed over the coil pack unit for the breakers yard one, started it up and went for a blast.
In conclusion, the third battallion of the Household Cavalry are back where they belong, stabled under the Saab's bonnet, and it now gets up and goes like someone has queried its parentage and run off down the road laughing in a 911.
Couple more questions if I may -
1. does the collective think that this will also cure my oil usage problem? 500 mainly motorway miles in the last two days, driving like Miss Daisy's great aunt, and about 2/3 of a litre has vanished. Not on the ground or visible out of the exhaust.
2. My coil pack has a small crack in the underside, between plugs 3 & 4, but my fault code is a misfire on 1 & 2. The replacement coil pack has the same crack. I have sealed it with a decent strong glue. So far no fault code. Does the crack matter?
3. My fuel consumption, mainly on cruise control on the A1, has been 30.5 mpg. Should I see this improve?
Thanks
Edited to add - P1312 fault code back this morning on start up. Either I have two coil packs with the same fault, or perhaps a set of new plugs are called for? Even though they look fine, I think that's a good place to start.
Edited by QBee on Friday 3rd July 08:48
Your running issues will be due to the vacuum pipe issue, now fortunately sorted. Mine popped off there too, must be a bit of pressure in that pipe, might be worth getting a jubilee clip to secure it.
You will have misfires as a result of those cracked coil packs but not necessarily just where the crack is, but on all plugs that is a very very common failure and you would be best to replace it with a brand new item (new plugs at the same time as they are sensitive if the plugs aren't changed - but no need to go with platinum as many will tell you, go for NGK BCPR7ES-11 at about £8 for four). Get yourself onto UKSaabs as there is a guy who has sourced a very reputable manufacturer who makes aftermarket coil packs, but they are known to be good quality and many forum users are using them with great results. The genuine coil packs will set you back £200 but these after market ones are around the £130 mark iirc.
Your oil issues are unrelated to the running/coil pack issues. It might be worth checking the oil pressure switch (back of the head next to the starter) for leaks as this is a common place for leaks. They can use a bit of oil as far as I am aware but yours seems a little excessive. Aside from that are you sure it has the correct grade of oil in it? You might have a bit of blow by to the combustion chamber if the oil is a little thin. Could be valve stem seals, could be turbo oil seals but it is difficult to be more specific than that.
30.5mpg is very respectable for the Aero, especially if it is an auto. The manuals will do a bit more if driven carefully on long runs. I can see 34mog on a run and around 30mpg on normal commutes to work (wit the odd blast).
You will have misfires as a result of those cracked coil packs but not necessarily just where the crack is, but on all plugs that is a very very common failure and you would be best to replace it with a brand new item (new plugs at the same time as they are sensitive if the plugs aren't changed - but no need to go with platinum as many will tell you, go for NGK BCPR7ES-11 at about £8 for four). Get yourself onto UKSaabs as there is a guy who has sourced a very reputable manufacturer who makes aftermarket coil packs, but they are known to be good quality and many forum users are using them with great results. The genuine coil packs will set you back £200 but these after market ones are around the £130 mark iirc.
Your oil issues are unrelated to the running/coil pack issues. It might be worth checking the oil pressure switch (back of the head next to the starter) for leaks as this is a common place for leaks. They can use a bit of oil as far as I am aware but yours seems a little excessive. Aside from that are you sure it has the correct grade of oil in it? You might have a bit of blow by to the combustion chamber if the oil is a little thin. Could be valve stem seals, could be turbo oil seals but it is difficult to be more specific than that.
30.5mpg is very respectable for the Aero, especially if it is an auto. The manuals will do a bit more if driven carefully on long runs. I can see 34mog on a run and around 30mpg on normal commutes to work (wit the odd blast).
Edited by moustache on Friday 3rd July 15:27
Edited by moustache on Friday 3rd July 15:31
Thanks for your comments and info.
I have changed the plugs this morning for platinum ones. I take your point about plug type, but I have always fitted the best plugs possible as they are still cheap compared with wasted fuel and problem finding, and anyway they need changing far less often.
I have sealed up the crack on the second coil pack (only about an inch long) and will see what happens. I have tracked down the ad for the after market supplier and he is currently £140. The Saab dealer in Cambridge sells genuine saab parts for £225 delivered, so at least i have a choice, but I will see if my cheap fix has worked first. I only get the code on cold start-up, and not every time either, and just the P1312 code, so I should know pretty soon if I have a problem. The first time the EMU light comes on, a coil pack (DIC unit) goes on order. It might be of interest that the code is for plugs 1&2, and when I took the plugs out to change them all four were good and pale beige, but the number 1 plug looked slightly blacker around the edges than the other three.
I will track down the valves etc you mention re my oil loss and see if i have an issue there. I couldn't see how the oil and vacuum issues could be connected, but the vacuum pipe has made a serious difference to the running, so if I cannot see any issues where you suggest I will have to see next week what the oil consumption is like post-vacuum-repair. The first thing I did when I got the car was change the oil and filter for the best grade. I am using Mobil 0w40 and Castrol 5w30 (as that's what the petrol station had when i spotted the oil was low the first time). Both fully synthetic. If anything I am a little concerned that the hot end seems low - I use 10w60 in my TVR, but that gets a regular thrashing around race tracks, whereas the Saab's use is mainly Miss Daisy-like.
Mine is a manual Aero estate (after 20 years of driving autos, my TVR has inspired me to try manual again), and my normal driving is up and down the A1/A14/M11 on cruise control at 70. I go at 5 am to avoid the hideous 7-9 am holdups around Cambridge, so keep a pretty constant speed despite the elephant racers. My previous car, a 3.0 TDI Audi A8, was managing close to 45 mpg, and I had hoped the Saab might manage 35. But I guess the pipe off will have damaged fuel economy, so lets see.
Thanks again for all your help, I am grateful and am enjoying working through the issues.
It feels slightly strange being on the receiving end of advice for once - I am usually dishing it out on the TVR Chimaera forum.
I have changed the plugs this morning for platinum ones. I take your point about plug type, but I have always fitted the best plugs possible as they are still cheap compared with wasted fuel and problem finding, and anyway they need changing far less often.
I have sealed up the crack on the second coil pack (only about an inch long) and will see what happens. I have tracked down the ad for the after market supplier and he is currently £140. The Saab dealer in Cambridge sells genuine saab parts for £225 delivered, so at least i have a choice, but I will see if my cheap fix has worked first. I only get the code on cold start-up, and not every time either, and just the P1312 code, so I should know pretty soon if I have a problem. The first time the EMU light comes on, a coil pack (DIC unit) goes on order. It might be of interest that the code is for plugs 1&2, and when I took the plugs out to change them all four were good and pale beige, but the number 1 plug looked slightly blacker around the edges than the other three.
I will track down the valves etc you mention re my oil loss and see if i have an issue there. I couldn't see how the oil and vacuum issues could be connected, but the vacuum pipe has made a serious difference to the running, so if I cannot see any issues where you suggest I will have to see next week what the oil consumption is like post-vacuum-repair. The first thing I did when I got the car was change the oil and filter for the best grade. I am using Mobil 0w40 and Castrol 5w30 (as that's what the petrol station had when i spotted the oil was low the first time). Both fully synthetic. If anything I am a little concerned that the hot end seems low - I use 10w60 in my TVR, but that gets a regular thrashing around race tracks, whereas the Saab's use is mainly Miss Daisy-like.
Mine is a manual Aero estate (after 20 years of driving autos, my TVR has inspired me to try manual again), and my normal driving is up and down the A1/A14/M11 on cruise control at 70. I go at 5 am to avoid the hideous 7-9 am holdups around Cambridge, so keep a pretty constant speed despite the elephant racers. My previous car, a 3.0 TDI Audi A8, was managing close to 45 mpg, and I had hoped the Saab might manage 35. But I guess the pipe off will have damaged fuel economy, so lets see.
Thanks again for all your help, I am grateful and am enjoying working through the issues.
It feels slightly strange being on the receiving end of advice for once - I am usually dishing it out on the TVR Chimaera forum.
Edited by QBee on Friday 3rd July 15:57
If you need another DI, i know "CJ Saab Services" has some perfect used ones in stock.
www.cjsaabservices.co.uk
www.cjsaabservices.co.uk
No worries at all, glad to be of help.
I'd say 35mpg is optimistic but doable if driving very cautiously everywhere and only doing long runs like you are. I'd say the SID display is a couple of mpg higher than actual based on my own calculations. My manual Aero (remapped to 275bhp and 420NM) did 32mpg last fill up (that's brim to brim calculations) but I'd say that's as high as I'll get it as that does include some spirited driving occasionally.
I'd say 35mpg is optimistic but doable if driving very cautiously everywhere and only doing long runs like you are. I'd say the SID display is a couple of mpg higher than actual based on my own calculations. My manual Aero (remapped to 275bhp and 420NM) did 32mpg last fill up (that's brim to brim calculations) but I'd say that's as high as I'll get it as that does include some spirited driving occasionally.
Thanks both.
On the DI front, I have so far started the car five times since fitting the new plugs, and as yet the warning, which only comes on start up, is absent. More driving will tell me for certain if that is fixed.
Oil consumption - i am trying a week's driving before looking for turbo seal and valve issues, to see if it might have been solved by re-attaching the vacuum pipe. I will be doing 700 mainly motorway miles next week, which should give me some answers. I did pop into my local garage this afternoon and ask the proprietor if he thought I could be right. He said I stood a chance, as the lack of vacuum could have affected pressures elsewhere.
I did look at the oil pressure sensor thingy by the starter, but there was no serious oil leaking there.
I will report progress if there is any!
On the DI front, I have so far started the car five times since fitting the new plugs, and as yet the warning, which only comes on start up, is absent. More driving will tell me for certain if that is fixed.
Oil consumption - i am trying a week's driving before looking for turbo seal and valve issues, to see if it might have been solved by re-attaching the vacuum pipe. I will be doing 700 mainly motorway miles next week, which should give me some answers. I did pop into my local garage this afternoon and ask the proprietor if he thought I could be right. He said I stood a chance, as the lack of vacuum could have affected pressures elsewhere.
I did look at the oil pressure sensor thingy by the starter, but there was no serious oil leaking there.
I will report progress if there is any!
UPDATE
After 20 starts with no ECU light I was getting cocky about my £15 fix.......then the bloody thing came back on again last night. GRRRR! Guess a new one is called for. Do I do it now, or wait until I get more than just the P1312 warning? Tax and VAT to pay at the beginning of next month is the reason for my question.
And it is still using oil - over half a litre in the last 450 miles. No smoke whatsoever as far as I am aware. Time to take pipes off and investigate......if only I knew which pipes and WTF I was looking at!
On the positive side, having found the vacuum pipe on the bulkhead off, and pushed it back on, car now goes like a Saab Aero should go. Fuel consumption hasn't improved, mainly because I am driving it like a Saab Aero should go.....
After 20 starts with no ECU light I was getting cocky about my £15 fix.......then the bloody thing came back on again last night. GRRRR! Guess a new one is called for. Do I do it now, or wait until I get more than just the P1312 warning? Tax and VAT to pay at the beginning of next month is the reason for my question.
And it is still using oil - over half a litre in the last 450 miles. No smoke whatsoever as far as I am aware. Time to take pipes off and investigate......if only I knew which pipes and WTF I was looking at!
On the positive side, having found the vacuum pipe on the bulkhead off, and pushed it back on, car now goes like a Saab Aero should go. Fuel consumption hasn't improved, mainly because I am driving it like a Saab Aero should go.....
QBee said:
I recently bought a 120,000 mile 2006 9-5 Aero. Lovely car, and now I have fixed the aircon and fitted new tyres and brakes. It is/was set to be my daily driver for the next 100,000 miles.
So I am puzzled about its oil consumption. Previous 9-5s (1998 and 1999) have used very little oil. This one has used 4.5 litres of 0w40 fully synthetic Mobil/Castrol in 4000 miles.
Yes, I do get a little blue smoke on cold start up first thing, which I put down to valve seals, but no other smoke and no leaks. Plugs are clean, oil is fresh (changed on purchase), but I have had the classic P1312 coil packs ECU code a few times.
Any thoughts?
Also, I may be spoiled these days by a 300 bhp TVR, but this 260 bhp Aero feels frankly sluggish to me. Overtaking trucks has to be planned rather than just done.
Could the two things be linked?
1 litre per 1000 miles is fairly typical for a 9-5 Aero.So I am puzzled about its oil consumption. Previous 9-5s (1998 and 1999) have used very little oil. This one has used 4.5 litres of 0w40 fully synthetic Mobil/Castrol in 4000 miles.
Yes, I do get a little blue smoke on cold start up first thing, which I put down to valve seals, but no other smoke and no leaks. Plugs are clean, oil is fresh (changed on purchase), but I have had the classic P1312 coil packs ECU code a few times.
Any thoughts?
Also, I may be spoiled these days by a 300 bhp TVR, but this 260 bhp Aero feels frankly sluggish to me. Overtaking trucks has to be planned rather than just done.
Could the two things be linked?
Yours may feel sluggish because your APC valve is broken.
I'd recommend heading to Noobtune in Nottingham for a remap, and get a new APC valve - The difference in power for £80 is astonishing, and fuel economy isn't affected.
Also make sure you run on V Power / Super Unleaded as these engines love it.
Follow up post, by way of a thank you.
Car presently sitting, engine in pieces, at the garage.
I had cappuccino in the coolant header tank, so took it in to be investigated.
Garage found that the head gasket had failed, timing chains were stretched and worn, that I had a leaking valve on number 4 cylinder, and that my piston rings were the cause of the heavy oil usage.
We are now undergoing the "while we are in there" exercise.
Complete head gasket kit, head skimmed, valves reseated, valve stem seals replaced, piston rings replaced, all 18 crankshaft shells replaced.
I get it back this week or next, will report again once it is run in and I have some idea how it is running on proper oil.
The guy doing the work is a friend who I trust completely, runs his own operation and has over 20 years experience. So while it will cost four figures (parts alone £540), I know it is all required.
Car presently sitting, engine in pieces, at the garage.
I had cappuccino in the coolant header tank, so took it in to be investigated.
Garage found that the head gasket had failed, timing chains were stretched and worn, that I had a leaking valve on number 4 cylinder, and that my piston rings were the cause of the heavy oil usage.
We are now undergoing the "while we are in there" exercise.
Complete head gasket kit, head skimmed, valves reseated, valve stem seals replaced, piston rings replaced, all 18 crankshaft shells replaced.
I get it back this week or next, will report again once it is run in and I have some idea how it is running on proper oil.
The guy doing the work is a friend who I trust completely, runs his own operation and has over 20 years experience. So while it will cost four figures (parts alone £540), I know it is all required.
QBee said:
Follow up post, by way of a thank you.
Car presently sitting, engine in pieces, at the garage.
I had cappuccino in the coolant header tank, so took it in to be investigated.
Garage found that the head gasket had failed, timing chains were stretched and worn, that I had a leaking valve on number 4 cylinder, and that my piston rings were the cause of the heavy oil usage.
We are now undergoing the "while we are in there" exercise.
Complete head gasket kit, head skimmed, valves reseated, valve stem seals replaced, piston rings replaced, all 18 crankshaft shells replaced.
I get it back this week or next, will report again once it is run in and I have some idea how it is running on proper oil.
The guy doing the work is a friend who I trust completely, runs his own operation and has over 20 years experience. So while it will cost four figures (parts alone £540), I know it is all required.
Glad you have it all resolved, or will do at least.Car presently sitting, engine in pieces, at the garage.
I had cappuccino in the coolant header tank, so took it in to be investigated.
Garage found that the head gasket had failed, timing chains were stretched and worn, that I had a leaking valve on number 4 cylinder, and that my piston rings were the cause of the heavy oil usage.
We are now undergoing the "while we are in there" exercise.
Complete head gasket kit, head skimmed, valves reseated, valve stem seals replaced, piston rings replaced, all 18 crankshaft shells replaced.
I get it back this week or next, will report again once it is run in and I have some idea how it is running on proper oil.
The guy doing the work is a friend who I trust completely, runs his own operation and has over 20 years experience. So while it will cost four figures (parts alone £540), I know it is all required.
Most people would think that a four figure bill was not worth it, but I, like yourself feel it is a sound investment and meNs the car is good for 150k miles at least.
Sometimes it is worth spending on the right car, and saabs are special.
Got it back today. Total cost, including parts, was £1904.
It had the head skimmed, valves removed, refaced and lapped back in, valve seals replaced.
New head gaskets kit, piston rings replaced, bores all de-glazed, crankshaft shells (all 18) replaced, timing chain, pulleys, guides and tensioners replaced, complete new breather system, new thermostat, new head bolts, new rad cap, water pump, temp sensor, oil separator, oil pressure sensor and oil and filter.
Presently running it on on 20w50 mineral oil, and it feels wonderful to drive. Even restricted to 2000-4000 rpm it pulls like a train without stressing and overtakes like the trucks are standing still. Just a total joy to drive. 700-1000 miles and it will go back in for an oil and filter change, to 5-w40 fully synthetic.
I agree with the sentiments of the last poster. I know the guy who re-built it, he has built race engines and sports car engines for years, races his own self-built TVR and has a real eye to detail. The car cost me £1500 as a 9 year old Aero, and has now, including the purchase price, a service, new quality tyres, new front brakes and a new aircon compressor, cost me £5,000 in total. Hopefully I will get another 80-100,000 miles from it - mostly motorway miles - without much further hassle over and above service costs. Fingers crossed.
Is it worth it? It was that, or sell it for parts and start again. And fix the next one. I buy old executive cars for comfort and safety, as I know I do 30,000 miles a year on business. I try to minimise depreciation, and hope I get away without too much wallet pain apart from service items and tyres. I have had all the pain at the start this time, and will take more care buying next time, but with a modicum of good fortune I won't have too much more trouble, and this car is a joy to drive and gives my clients (I am an accountant) exactly the right mix of message that I am reliable, not totally boring, and am not running my car at their expense.
Thanks for all your advice and support on the Saab forum - much appreciated.
It had the head skimmed, valves removed, refaced and lapped back in, valve seals replaced.
New head gaskets kit, piston rings replaced, bores all de-glazed, crankshaft shells (all 18) replaced, timing chain, pulleys, guides and tensioners replaced, complete new breather system, new thermostat, new head bolts, new rad cap, water pump, temp sensor, oil separator, oil pressure sensor and oil and filter.
Presently running it on on 20w50 mineral oil, and it feels wonderful to drive. Even restricted to 2000-4000 rpm it pulls like a train without stressing and overtakes like the trucks are standing still. Just a total joy to drive. 700-1000 miles and it will go back in for an oil and filter change, to 5-w40 fully synthetic.
I agree with the sentiments of the last poster. I know the guy who re-built it, he has built race engines and sports car engines for years, races his own self-built TVR and has a real eye to detail. The car cost me £1500 as a 9 year old Aero, and has now, including the purchase price, a service, new quality tyres, new front brakes and a new aircon compressor, cost me £5,000 in total. Hopefully I will get another 80-100,000 miles from it - mostly motorway miles - without much further hassle over and above service costs. Fingers crossed.
Is it worth it? It was that, or sell it for parts and start again. And fix the next one. I buy old executive cars for comfort and safety, as I know I do 30,000 miles a year on business. I try to minimise depreciation, and hope I get away without too much wallet pain apart from service items and tyres. I have had all the pain at the start this time, and will take more care buying next time, but with a modicum of good fortune I won't have too much more trouble, and this car is a joy to drive and gives my clients (I am an accountant) exactly the right mix of message that I am reliable, not totally boring, and am not running my car at their expense.
Thanks for all your advice and support on the Saab forum - much appreciated.
Digging up an old thread / providing confirmation ...
I bought a 54-reg (2005 model year) 9-5 aero which also had an oil usage issue, it ended up being about a litre every 1,000 miles (possibly more) - I'd eliminated the usual suspects (oil pressure switch, turbo etc.) and the mileage was circa 150k. Given that I was looking to keep the car - I checked the timing chain tensioner extension and it was close to the maximum recommended by Saab.
So I took the car to a local specialist who confirmed the timing and balance chain replacement was an engine-out job - and I asked them about the oil usage to see if this could be looked into at the same time. The fault was diagnosed as valve guide wear (which they said is common on the Trionic 7 cylinder heads), this led to oil being drawn past the stem seals and into the cylinders, eventually gumming up one of the piston oil control rings.
So they had the head sent to a machine shop for the valve guides and stem seals to be replaced, with the valve seats being re-cut and the valves lapped back in. The intention was to re-assemble with new piston rings (as the bores were deemed to be OK) and new water pump - however, whilst the engine was in bits, I had them replace the clutch, slave cylinder and main/big end bearings too - along with both crankshaft seals. Total bill (including a clutch/slave cylinder and the water pump, which I sourced) came to around £3k
However, it now hardly uses any oil at all ... the clutch is much lighter - the previous one, even though showing no sign of slipping when running a stage 3 map, was within 0.5mm of the rivets ... and one of the big-end bearings had just started to break up ... both of which were shown to me by the mechanic when I collected the car.
I replaced the oil and filter about 4k after the work/running in and initial oil/filter change was done - and the oil was still a light brown colour, previously it would have been almost black within 500 miles or so.
I did initially source a used cylinder head from eBay, but the garage confirmed that also had valve guide wear - just not as bad as mine ...
I bought a 54-reg (2005 model year) 9-5 aero which also had an oil usage issue, it ended up being about a litre every 1,000 miles (possibly more) - I'd eliminated the usual suspects (oil pressure switch, turbo etc.) and the mileage was circa 150k. Given that I was looking to keep the car - I checked the timing chain tensioner extension and it was close to the maximum recommended by Saab.
So I took the car to a local specialist who confirmed the timing and balance chain replacement was an engine-out job - and I asked them about the oil usage to see if this could be looked into at the same time. The fault was diagnosed as valve guide wear (which they said is common on the Trionic 7 cylinder heads), this led to oil being drawn past the stem seals and into the cylinders, eventually gumming up one of the piston oil control rings.
So they had the head sent to a machine shop for the valve guides and stem seals to be replaced, with the valve seats being re-cut and the valves lapped back in. The intention was to re-assemble with new piston rings (as the bores were deemed to be OK) and new water pump - however, whilst the engine was in bits, I had them replace the clutch, slave cylinder and main/big end bearings too - along with both crankshaft seals. Total bill (including a clutch/slave cylinder and the water pump, which I sourced) came to around £3k
However, it now hardly uses any oil at all ... the clutch is much lighter - the previous one, even though showing no sign of slipping when running a stage 3 map, was within 0.5mm of the rivets ... and one of the big-end bearings had just started to break up ... both of which were shown to me by the mechanic when I collected the car.
I replaced the oil and filter about 4k after the work/running in and initial oil/filter change was done - and the oil was still a light brown colour, previously it would have been almost black within 500 miles or so.
I did initially source a used cylinder head from eBay, but the garage confirmed that also had valve guide wear - just not as bad as mine ...
Qbee I see back in your first post you mention you fixed the A/C on your car. Can I ask what symptoms you had apart from the obvious, and how you fixed them. Mine has a leak but garage haven't been able to source where from. System has been run for an hr without gas levels dropping.
Thanks
Thanks
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