New member Barn find
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Hi all,
New to this group and very new to TVR's I am a vag man (Just now)
Long story short a friend not far from me has a 1998 4.2 cerbera that has not been on the road for 6 years. It hasn't been started in 3. Sitting in the back on a shed covered up with no TLC given.
I have long known about this car as I remember it running around the area. (With its amazing noise).........
Its mileage is in the 30's to my knowledge. Its bright blue with the Tuscan head lights from the factory and the wheels that I believe also come from the Tuscan.
The owner moved out to the far east and might be willing to sell it if the right offer is made.
This is my problem I have no real idea what it is worth. I am stuck in two minds if it would be worth taking out the engine and completing a rebuild and trying to figure out costs involved. It had some surface rust (which was cleaned up) on the chassis when it was on the road. Body and interior looks in good condition. It has AP racing brakes which will all need to be changed.
There isn't a ramp at the shed it is stored at so I cant get a real idea to see what condition its in. (chassis)
I am looking for a little bit of advice and apologies for sounding very green on this amazing car.
Cheers
New to this group and very new to TVR's I am a vag man (Just now)
Long story short a friend not far from me has a 1998 4.2 cerbera that has not been on the road for 6 years. It hasn't been started in 3. Sitting in the back on a shed covered up with no TLC given.
I have long known about this car as I remember it running around the area. (With its amazing noise).........
Its mileage is in the 30's to my knowledge. Its bright blue with the Tuscan head lights from the factory and the wheels that I believe also come from the Tuscan.
The owner moved out to the far east and might be willing to sell it if the right offer is made.
This is my problem I have no real idea what it is worth. I am stuck in two minds if it would be worth taking out the engine and completing a rebuild and trying to figure out costs involved. It had some surface rust (which was cleaned up) on the chassis when it was on the road. Body and interior looks in good condition. It has AP racing brakes which will all need to be changed.
There isn't a ramp at the shed it is stored at so I cant get a real idea to see what condition its in. (chassis)
I am looking for a little bit of advice and apologies for sounding very green on this amazing car.
Cheers
Welcome! Sounds interesing!
Difficult to say on price, have any pics?
If it hasn;t been started for 6 years, then it will need some very careful fettling to turn it over . But there is no reason why there should be any major issues. THe only thing that may have happened is some of the valve springs may have relaxed being under constant tension for so long.
You have the keys I assume?
J
Difficult to say on price, have any pics?
If it hasn;t been started for 6 years, then it will need some very careful fettling to turn it over . But there is no reason why there should be any major issues. THe only thing that may have happened is some of the valve springs may have relaxed being under constant tension for so long.
You have the keys I assume?
J
Greetings and welcome!
First question is would you restore the car your self or pay TVR garage prices?
Assume the worse....
Full chassis restoration, engine rebuild, re spray, hydraulics at garage prices you would pay 20k easy.
DIY labour sending for respray and engine rebuild etc 12k
This makes the value as a barn find £5,000-£10,000
These are very general prices just to give you an idea
£16,000 will get you a 4.2 with a mot £25,000 a very good example I think at the moment.
(I will await the firing squad by my fellow members
First question is would you restore the car your self or pay TVR garage prices?
Assume the worse....
Full chassis restoration, engine rebuild, re spray, hydraulics at garage prices you would pay 20k easy.
DIY labour sending for respray and engine rebuild etc 12k
This makes the value as a barn find £5,000-£10,000
These are very general prices just to give you an idea
£16,000 will get you a 4.2 with a mot £25,000 a very good example I think at the moment.
(I will await the firing squad by my fellow members
The car is exactly the same as this car. I had a quick look at it at night will need abit of work just to get it out of the shed its in. The keys are in the ignition.
Well I had that kind of mindset and have a couple of friends from different backgrounds that gave a range of different answers. I just thought that if I got it back on the road and ended a couple of months down the line with an engine rebuild to do I would be a bit gutted.
I am making assumptions on worst case scenario. As I am in no hurry to get it back on the road but want it to be done right. At this moment I would imagine the chassis will need work.
tofts said:
Welcome! Sounds interesing!
Difficult to say on price, have any pics?
If it hasn;t been started for 6 years, then it will need some very careful fettling to turn it over . But there is no reason why there should be any major issues. THe only thing that may have happened is some of the valve springs may have relaxed being under constant tension for so long.
You have the keys I assume?
J
Keys, scoff! Difficult to say on price, have any pics?
If it hasn;t been started for 6 years, then it will need some very careful fettling to turn it over . But there is no reason why there should be any major issues. THe only thing that may have happened is some of the valve springs may have relaxed being under constant tension for so long.
You have the keys I assume?
J
There are a few things that 'don't quite fit' in your descriptions but don't worry about that. It'll all come with experience 
The battery will, of course, be shagged so you won't be able to start her anyway.
There are three sets of keys to a Cerb. There is a small power-cut-off key which is located in the central console. Everyone who has (had) a Cerb will say "Don't touch this key !".
The second set consists of a single-buttoned fob. This is the security/ignition switch and requires two pushes before the ignition becomes live and the fuel pump is activated. Yours may require a new battery there too.
The third key is an insertion-into-slot backup (slot is also found in the central console)
As people have said, it would be safer for you to take along a person experienced in running a Cerb if you want to gain access or move her around.
Be very careful whose 'expert' opinion you rely on. There are some real know-it-all cowboys out there.
One of the good thing about Cerbs is that they offer phenomenal performance without the need for rocket science. If you have an idea of which end of a molegrip is which then, with help from this wonderful forum, you (and a friend) can do it all on your own.
If you were to let people know where it is I am sure you will be drowned in offers of help.
Good Luck
ETA
Oh, and just one other, purely personal thing....
Cerbs don't like being unused so if you do gain access, when you get in don't go pressing all the pedals like you're an 11-year-old school boy. I believe that the Clutch Master Cylinder seals in particular are prone to tearing if they haven't been moved for a while so gently press the clutch pedal, starting with small movements at first, increasing the depth of travel until you eventually complete the full pedal travel (after 10 - 12 depressions).
Like I say - just my threepennyworth. HTH
The battery will, of course, be shagged so you won't be able to start her anyway.
There are three sets of keys to a Cerb. There is a small power-cut-off key which is located in the central console. Everyone who has (had) a Cerb will say "Don't touch this key !".
The second set consists of a single-buttoned fob. This is the security/ignition switch and requires two pushes before the ignition becomes live and the fuel pump is activated. Yours may require a new battery there too.
The third key is an insertion-into-slot backup (slot is also found in the central console)
As people have said, it would be safer for you to take along a person experienced in running a Cerb if you want to gain access or move her around.
Be very careful whose 'expert' opinion you rely on. There are some real know-it-all cowboys out there.
One of the good thing about Cerbs is that they offer phenomenal performance without the need for rocket science. If you have an idea of which end of a molegrip is which then, with help from this wonderful forum, you (and a friend) can do it all on your own.
If you were to let people know where it is I am sure you will be drowned in offers of help.
Good Luck
ETA
Oh, and just one other, purely personal thing....
Cerbs don't like being unused so if you do gain access, when you get in don't go pressing all the pedals like you're an 11-year-old school boy. I believe that the Clutch Master Cylinder seals in particular are prone to tearing if they haven't been moved for a while so gently press the clutch pedal, starting with small movements at first, increasing the depth of travel until you eventually complete the full pedal travel (after 10 - 12 depressions).
Like I say - just my threepennyworth. HTH
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Friday 6th May 12:08
Sorry as I said before I have no experience with cerberas but have worked in a garage. projects include e30 325 sport, Sierra sapphire cosworth plus a range of normal stuff. That's extremely helpful having that kinda information. The car is actually in a remote part of the Scottish islands so the costs of shipping it down to Ecosse tvr would be 500 plus. I would be more inclined to remove plugs get some freeing fluid in the cylinders. Leave it for a couple of days. Change filters and fluids. Drain fuel and bleed try turning the crank by hand. Get a new battery and see what the plan is from there. Would it be worth going down this route or just getting into my garage and removing the engine and just start new from the bottom end up.
RJJ135M said:
Sorry as I said before I have no experience with cerberas but have worked in a garage. projects include e30 325 sport, Sierra sapphire cosworth plus a range of normal stuff. That's extremely helpful having that kinda information. The car is actually in a remote part of the Scottish islands so the costs of shipping it down to Ecosse tvr would be 500 plus. I would be more inclined to remove plugs get some freeing fluid in the cylinders. Leave it for a couple of days. Change filters and fluids. Drain fuel and bleed try turning the crank by hand. Get a new battery and see what the plan is from there. Would it be worth going down this route or just getting into my garage and removing the engine and just start new from the bottom end up.
Well RJ, you're more qualified to be a Cerb owner than I was/am so I'd get cracking on option 1 if I were you. Shame about the distance but it means that your drive bringing her home will be megaA 1998 car will be more likely than other years to have chassis rot.
Also being a 98 it wouldn't have had the Tuscan lights or wheels from factory.
The amount of work could be huge and expensive. hopefully it won't need huge money but as above you may need to shell out for chassis, paint, interior, engine, brakes, fluids, shocks and springs, tyres and / or electrics. Just a handful of these items could make it a £15k recommission exercise. I'd want to pay under £5k as I would expect to need to spend a lot on it.
Also being a 98 it wouldn't have had the Tuscan lights or wheels from factory.
The amount of work could be huge and expensive. hopefully it won't need huge money but as above you may need to shell out for chassis, paint, interior, engine, brakes, fluids, shocks and springs, tyres and / or electrics. Just a handful of these items could make it a £15k recommission exercise. I'd want to pay under £5k as I would expect to need to spend a lot on it.
If you were considering a bottom end rebuild anyway, you have little to lose by trying to start it up.
As you said and as a bare minimum guide:
- Remove and flush of all fuel, including the lines, add 98 ron
- Inspect fuel lines, check pump and seals for leaks
- Change all fluids, consider freeing agent use
- New oil and filter, but search on here for details about how to get new oil coursing nicely through the pump again as it's not as simple as you might expect.
- New battery
- Check plugs
- Inspect HT leads for mouse nibbles (I live in a built up area, mine is used all the time and a mouse still has recently had a go at a lead)
- Hand turn it and listen with a stethoscope for any odd noises of rebounding springs etc.
- Cut off fuel and check compression in all 8
- Plug the fuse back in for the fuel pump try starting it. Remember, they all sound quite terrible when first started.
- Don't rev it, let it get to 70 degrees or so before turning it off.
It will be a pretty big job, and there's a lot of luck involved obviously.
As a minimum I'd expect the brake and clutch seals to be gone, the brakes to be bound on, the tyres to be useless, the wheels may have distorted, the shocks will probably be hopeless, new bushes will be needed, anything electric that moves will need a ton of wd40, door seals will be perished,
As others have mentioned, there is a gargantuan list of things that could be required, but you might be quite lucky.
Alsolutely no more than 5k as mentioned.
Good luck!
As you said and as a bare minimum guide:
- Remove and flush of all fuel, including the lines, add 98 ron
- Inspect fuel lines, check pump and seals for leaks
- Change all fluids, consider freeing agent use
- New oil and filter, but search on here for details about how to get new oil coursing nicely through the pump again as it's not as simple as you might expect.
- New battery
- Check plugs
- Inspect HT leads for mouse nibbles (I live in a built up area, mine is used all the time and a mouse still has recently had a go at a lead)
- Hand turn it and listen with a stethoscope for any odd noises of rebounding springs etc.
- Cut off fuel and check compression in all 8
- Plug the fuse back in for the fuel pump try starting it. Remember, they all sound quite terrible when first started.
- Don't rev it, let it get to 70 degrees or so before turning it off.
It will be a pretty big job, and there's a lot of luck involved obviously.
As a minimum I'd expect the brake and clutch seals to be gone, the brakes to be bound on, the tyres to be useless, the wheels may have distorted, the shocks will probably be hopeless, new bushes will be needed, anything electric that moves will need a ton of wd40, door seals will be perished,
As others have mentioned, there is a gargantuan list of things that could be required, but you might be quite lucky.
Alsolutely no more than 5k as mentioned.
Good luck!
Very interesting. What engine is this car?
A knackered unused Cerb I say hits 6K but this seeming more unloved and underused could be a time bomb. I say 4K
I say this as my Dads 99 had and still have very low milage (35k) but upon its recommissioning by me after the car was serviced the fact that things got moving again ended up splitting and cracking the oil tank. Then the Power rebuild came and all was good.
One thing that never showed any drama was the brakes. The APs were prob the most solid things on the cars at the time.
After the just shy of 12k that went into it its now easy (and insurance agreed) £25k
A knackered unused Cerb I say hits 6K but this seeming more unloved and underused could be a time bomb. I say 4K
I say this as my Dads 99 had and still have very low milage (35k) but upon its recommissioning by me after the car was serviced the fact that things got moving again ended up splitting and cracking the oil tank. Then the Power rebuild came and all was good.
One thing that never showed any drama was the brakes. The APs were prob the most solid things on the cars at the time.
After the just shy of 12k that went into it its now easy (and insurance agreed) £25k
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