Drive - Tuned! - Exige 710bhp
Discussion
John Gerard said:
Saying things like a race track teaches nothing and you need rally pod lights on the front of your car or your going to crash at night on a mountain road are ridiculous statements. Saying there are no apexes on a mountain road is just stupid.
Putting another enthusiast down for wanting to learn his car on the track with an instructor is something Ronin should consider after watching his videos.
You're being a nobba. You've only posted in here so you're either a existing member under a second login, or you've just joined to troll. Either way, you are not welcome. You are just being obtuse by pretending to not understand Frank's statement. Putting another enthusiast down for wanting to learn his car on the track with an instructor is something Ronin should consider after watching his videos.
Edited by John Gerard on Tuesday 19th June 00:19
This a build thread. Let it be just that.
Impala maybe? the ronin said:
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/UvQdazkP[/urlEdited by the ronin on Saturday 5th May 16:16
I was a bit confused regarding folks commenting on 'your engine choice' and somehow thinking its less of a Lotus? Hasn't Lotus pretty much always been about their chassis design, and not so much their OE engine providers (be it Rover or Toyota)? IMHO, if it has a Lotus chassis... it's a Lotus. Right?
Anyhow, I didn't think enough was said about your new design... a widebody 211 is it? Looks very cool... Even better in the latest photos as you build it up. Will CA DOT give you a hard time given the new design (for regular road use)?
Lastly, I've been wondering for a while what the significance of the vanity plate refers too? Is there a story there somewhere?
Anyhow, will be following your new body design with great interest.
Edited by Bazinga on Friday 29th June 02:42
GTRene said:
very nice Frank, how does that work further on, you make some sort of mold of that what you see and then make out of that mold, with say glasfiber? the new parts?
what is that stuf, some sort of PUR ?
It's called moldless composite (fiberglass or CF). Create your mold with foam, glass over it, and then remove the foam (if you can). In this case, easy to remove from the back side. That particular photo is pink Polystyrene foam (typically used as home insulation). Carves very easily with a hot wire. A little bit of acetone and it will melt from the backside pretty easily.what is that stuf, some sort of PUR ?
The liquid foam there is two-part polyurethane foam. Mix part a & b together, wait a few seconds, and it expands to about 30x it's size. Won't carve with a hot wire or melt with acetone, but is easily reduced to crumbs with a wire brush wheel on your drill.
Once shaped, fiberglass is layed up, smoothed by sanding and epoxy filler, and finaled by thick primer and finish. You can take the process one step further and create a mold from this new part, which will allow fast production of duplicate parts. Moldless composite is time consuming and expensive, but for the guy who wants to create one-off parts in his garage... A great way to go.
The toughest part is that the first fender is artistic expression and creativity. Duplicating an exact opposite reflection of the fender on the other side involves measuring, math and contour gauges. Bottom line not as much fun as the first side.
Looks good Frank. Keep us posted.
thx for explaning it.
do I understand it right. that in this way you have to make it a few mm lower than the end product because of the few mm glass on top of that as the end product?
the front part was made different I guess to "just" widen it and not modelling it?
guess the underside layers must be made wider then the gap for strenght?
do I understand it right. that in this way you have to make it a few mm lower than the end product because of the few mm glass on top of that as the end product?
the front part was made different I guess to "just" widen it and not modelling it?
guess the underside layers must be made wider then the gap for strenght?
GTRene said:
thx for explaning it.
do I understand it right. that in this way you have to make it a few mm lower than the end product because of the few mm glass on top of that as the end product?
the front part was made different I guess to "just" widen it and not modelling it?
guess the underside layers must be made wider then the gap for strenght?
In theory, yes. Your part will be slightly larger (about 3mm), but in reality not factored on fender construction as precision tolerance isn't all that critical. In short, you wouldn't notice the slightly larger size.do I understand it right. that in this way you have to make it a few mm lower than the end product because of the few mm glass on top of that as the end product?
the front part was made different I guess to "just" widen it and not modelling it?
guess the underside layers must be made wider then the gap for strenght?
Yes. The thicker.. the stronger, but heavier. Need light weight strength, carbon fiber is better. But carbon fiber is also more brittle than glass, and doesn't flex as much.
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