Brake pads life and track days.

[nick_j007]

Hi all. Hope you're enjoying the good weather.
In short I have a track day at Blyton park next Sunday and I'm a bit concerned re the pad levels on the car. The fronts are nearly new and the rears have I would estimate 3-4mm on them both sides.
The fronts take the brunt of course, so part of me thinks I'll be okay.
Slightly embarrassed to ask, but are the rears employed at all when I press the brake pedal?
So will I get away with one more td or should I get them replaced beforehand? Typically I've left it a bit late and will have to pull my finger out if I do need to change them.
Whilst practical minded I've never changed pads before, is it easy enough for a novice?
Thanks all!

[kambites]

The Elise is comparatively heavy on the rear brakes because of its weight distribution but obviously most of the work is still done by the fronts and it's a light car so overall wear is low; I wouldn't expect more than about 0.5mm of wear on a typical track day. If your fluid is ancient that might give you fade issues.

Changing the pads is pretty easy, maybe half an hour a corner if you haven't done it before. There's guides on SELOC if you're a member.

Edited by kambites on Sunday 8th May 17:01

[nick_j007]

Thank you. So I should be okay and then get it looked at after this next td.
Another question comes to mind, how important is it to have the same make all round? I've used and liked Mintex RS4's before. I'll put those on the rear and I don't know what's on the front at present, they're not very strong however.
Thanks again.

[kambites]

Personally I wouldn't run different pads at different ends. The brake balance of a car is set up on the basis of having the same pad material at east end; different pad compounds can have wildly different coefficients of friction which will push your effective brake balance off.

[Viperzs]

You'll be fine for wear. I was a little worried about mine which looked less than half worn. I have since done Blyton AND Croft and still have plenty left.

This does, of course, depend on which pads you are running? I have Ferodo DS2500

[nick_j007]

Thanks again for the responses guys.
I've a complete set of Pagids to go on and will do them all tomorrow.
A quick question, when reading SELOCs guide, there is reference to closing the brake fluid reservoir at the end of the process, but no mention of opening it to begin with. An error I'm guessing?
So do I need to slacken off the cap for when I push the Pistons back to allow movement of the brake fluid?
Thanks!

[Fonzey]

Yeah popping the cap allows you to push back the pistons without fighting pressure and physics too! You'll need a rewind tool, or some long nose pliers can be used to twist the pistons back.

I recently stuck RS42s in mine ready for (the very same!) trackday on Sunday. My OEM pads still have LOADS of meat left so I'll throw them in the boot in case anyone gets caught short and needs some help finishing the day or getting home.

See you there!

/Laser Blue 2006 111R.

[nick_j007]

Thanks Fonzey!
Managed to get them all done without popping caps. I used the rewind tool and they recoiled just fine.
Will take the car for a drive later to bed them in
I'll be in the unmistakable BRG with a yellow stripe up the centre Elise SC. Come and say hello. Cheers. Nick

[kambites]

If they're like the Mintex 1144s they'll come with a specified bedding in procedure; which is bloody painful!

[nick_j007]

kambites said:

If they're like the Mintex 1144s they'll come with a specified bedding in procedure; which is bloody painful!

Yes. They required a few runs at increasingly high speeds 90-50 a few times then 110-50 also. Naturally, I wasn't able to reach anywhere near those speeds on a public road

[kambites]

The instructions that came with mine had a something-0 stop then maintain full pedal pressure for something like 2 minutes, which is harder than it sounds!

[nick_j007]

kambites said:

The instructions that came with mine had a something-0 stop then maintain full pedal pressure for something like 2 minutes, which is harder than it sounds!

I saw on SELOC that was suggested for OEM pads. Pagid had their own method as I refer to above. I'm glad they all went okay today anyway.

[nick_j007]

kambites said:

The instructions that came with mine had a something-0 stop then maintain full pedal pressure for something like 2 minutes, which is harder than it sounds!

I saw on SELOC that was suggested for OEM pads. Pagid had their own method as I refer to above. I'm glad they all went okay today anyway.