Fitting HID's (Janitor Guide)
See original Thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Firstly, after getting a Lotus, I was a little surprised at how owners commented on the standard lighting kit as ‘candles’ - I always thought the headlights were fine to be honest… but then it dawned on me that my MY06 111R SportsRacer has the additional driving lights on full beam!
It has also struck me of late however that dipped was less than, well, enlightening. So following Mucher’s greatly appreciated quick turn around from payment to doormat, I’ve now done the install
The exact brand I don’t have a clue on, I just know they were imported, but Muncher may have more detail on that should anyone require. I also followed Bogie’s top tip of getting some LED replacement sidelight bulbs whilst I was at it – I’m well pleased with how they look actually!
(He has also done the main-beam conversion as well! 
)
Ok, on to the job. Apologies to those who are already well versed in the flesh and bones of an Elise as this is a pretty detailed affair starting from the basics for those like me who’ve never been in there before! Like my 2bular Exhaust guide, this may hopefully help a few owners save some bucks via DIY route
The 1st step is to remove the front wheels – clear and easy access is the only way to go. Observe recommended jacking points and safety here. Once wheels are removed, start on the front section of the wheel arch liner. I’m not personally familiar with fixings and methods before the MY06 models, but I think they may differ slightly
(1) remove top screw. (2) remove lower screws and withdraw ‘expanding plug’ type housings. (3) ease liner out from the bottom whilst siding downwards to free the joining support plate between the two liner sections. (4) exposed light housing & fixings:
Remove the allen-key headed bolts (Lotus kindly supply the correct size in the tool pouch
) (1) (2) & (3):
Carefully ease the glass cover forward and store safely and out of windy area to avoid dust ingress
Exposed lights:
Unplug, unclip and remove the existing dipped headlight bulb and install the HID bulb. I chose to do this first of all so that it’s safely stowed and kept clean whilst you’re sorting the cabling. Due to the lack of easy access, placing the HID tube into the holder is difficult, but be patient and avoid touching the bulb itself with fingers. (It can be cleaned with alcohol & lint-free cloth if accidental contact is made)
Note how the lugs on the bulb base locate in designated positions on the housing:
Next up, poke through the rubber grommet from inside (1) and trim the inner edge a little (2) to free things up a little for when it comes to pushing the HID bulb cable connectors through. Take much care here – don’t cut the cables or yourself and remember that your precious paintwork is barely a couple of inches away!
Thread all the appropriate connectors through the grommet (1) and refitting the grommet is best done by poking the whole thing through the hole in the clam and manipulating back into place from the inside of the arch. Attach the HID unit feeds to the original headlight bulb connectors (2) and tape them up for insulation and a little extra mechanical fastening (3). Tuck excess cable neatly away under the cable entry point away from the bulb housing and the hole for the glass fixing bolt (4)
(Note that the grommet supplied on the replacement HID bulb cables is not needed in this case. Either remove or carefully slide it up to the existing entry grommet as an extra drip-break)
New cables & connectors viewed from inside the arch:
Take this opportunity to connect the HID feeds or ‘ballasts’ and run a quick power-up test – there is really only one way this kit can go together (unless you’re trying really hard!) and it beats stripping everything apart again afterwards should something not be quite right!
Being unsure exactly what is what under there, I found it tricky to locate a safe & secure place into which I felt confident of tapping screws for mounting the ballasts. There are twin oil-coolers on the SportsRacer and not knowing what was behind any other panels, I elected to utilise the supplied bracket…
…and then a ‘known’ fixing. One 10mm socket later and all was firmly attached to one of the light unit mount bolts (not the glass securing bolts!). This is ideal as it is away from all other components and pipes etc whilst not interfering when arch liner is refitted:
Replacing the sidelight bulbs is dead simple. The holder is fixed into the top side of the main beam light housing and you simply turn the sidelight bulb holder through 90 degrees, substitute the standard bulb with a direct LED replacement and refit
The following pictures show direct comparison taken in identical light with a flash. (The original lights on left, HID & LEDs on right)
Sidelights:
Dipped headlights:
Main Beam:
As for on the road..? Haven’t tried it as yet! …but one thing I do know is that the HIDs do NOT interfere with the radio as much rumoured… well, not on FM anyway. MW is lost with the headlights on but that always goes when the LED brake lights come on anyway! (I believe there is a fix for that though and it may cure all..?) I’m not sure whether it’s of any relevance but bear in mind that this is on an MY06 with a JVC Stereo and not the original DAB54
One final thought - I seem to recall that the headlight fuse needs upgrading from 10A to 15A..? As the HIDs actually draw less power, I wonder whether this is indeed the case. All input appreciated (They need up-rating due to the in-rush, startup, current, which is a lot higher)
UPDATE: Headlight fuses now uprated to 20A per side. Fuses under passenger side bonnet panel
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Firstly, after getting a Lotus, I was a little surprised at how owners commented on the standard lighting kit as ‘candles’ - I always thought the headlights were fine to be honest… but then it dawned on me that my MY06 111R SportsRacer has the additional driving lights on full beam!
It has also struck me of late however that dipped was less than, well, enlightening. So following Mucher’s greatly appreciated quick turn around from payment to doormat, I’ve now done the installThe exact brand I don’t have a clue on, I just know they were imported, but Muncher may have more detail on that should anyone require. I also followed Bogie’s top tip of getting some LED replacement sidelight bulbs whilst I was at it – I’m well pleased with how they look actually!
(He has also done the main-beam conversion as well! )Ok, on to the job. Apologies to those who are already well versed in the flesh and bones of an Elise as this is a pretty detailed affair starting from the basics for those like me who’ve never been in there before! Like my 2bular Exhaust guide, this may hopefully help a few owners save some bucks via DIY route
The 1st step is to remove the front wheels – clear and easy access is the only way to go. Observe recommended jacking points and safety here. Once wheels are removed, start on the front section of the wheel arch liner. I’m not personally familiar with fixings and methods before the MY06 models, but I think they may differ slightly
(1) remove top screw. (2) remove lower screws and withdraw ‘expanding plug’ type housings. (3) ease liner out from the bottom whilst siding downwards to free the joining support plate between the two liner sections. (4) exposed light housing & fixings:
Remove the allen-key headed bolts (Lotus kindly supply the correct size in the tool pouch
) (1) (2) & (3): Carefully ease the glass cover forward and store safely and out of windy area to avoid dust ingress
Exposed lights:
Unplug, unclip and remove the existing dipped headlight bulb and install the HID bulb. I chose to do this first of all so that it’s safely stowed and kept clean whilst you’re sorting the cabling. Due to the lack of easy access, placing the HID tube into the holder is difficult, but be patient and avoid touching the bulb itself with fingers. (It can be cleaned with alcohol & lint-free cloth if accidental contact is made)
Note how the lugs on the bulb base locate in designated positions on the housing:
Next up, poke through the rubber grommet from inside (1) and trim the inner edge a little (2) to free things up a little for when it comes to pushing the HID bulb cable connectors through. Take much care here – don’t cut the cables or yourself and remember that your precious paintwork is barely a couple of inches away!
Thread all the appropriate connectors through the grommet (1) and refitting the grommet is best done by poking the whole thing through the hole in the clam and manipulating back into place from the inside of the arch. Attach the HID unit feeds to the original headlight bulb connectors (2) and tape them up for insulation and a little extra mechanical fastening (3). Tuck excess cable neatly away under the cable entry point away from the bulb housing and the hole for the glass fixing bolt (4)
(Note that the grommet supplied on the replacement HID bulb cables is not needed in this case. Either remove or carefully slide it up to the existing entry grommet as an extra drip-break)
New cables & connectors viewed from inside the arch:
Take this opportunity to connect the HID feeds or ‘ballasts’ and run a quick power-up test – there is really only one way this kit can go together (unless you’re trying really hard!) and it beats stripping everything apart again afterwards should something not be quite right!
Being unsure exactly what is what under there, I found it tricky to locate a safe & secure place into which I felt confident of tapping screws for mounting the ballasts. There are twin oil-coolers on the SportsRacer and not knowing what was behind any other panels, I elected to utilise the supplied bracket…
…and then a ‘known’ fixing. One 10mm socket later and all was firmly attached to one of the light unit mount bolts (not the glass securing bolts!). This is ideal as it is away from all other components and pipes etc whilst not interfering when arch liner is refitted:
Replacing the sidelight bulbs is dead simple. The holder is fixed into the top side of the main beam light housing and you simply turn the sidelight bulb holder through 90 degrees, substitute the standard bulb with a direct LED replacement and refit
The following pictures show direct comparison taken in identical light with a flash. (The original lights on left, HID & LEDs on right)
Sidelights:
Dipped headlights:
Main Beam:
As for on the road..? Haven’t tried it as yet!
…but one thing I do know is that the HIDs do NOT interfere with the radio as much rumoured… well, not on FM anyway. MW is lost with the headlights on but that always goes when the LED brake lights come on anyway! (I believe there is a fix for that though and it may cure all..?) I’m not sure whether it’s of any relevance but bear in mind that this is on an MY06 with a JVC Stereo and not the original DAB54One final thought - I seem to recall that the headlight fuse needs upgrading from 10A to 15A..? As the HIDs actually draw less power, I wonder whether this is indeed the case. All input appreciated
(They need up-rating due to the in-rush, startup, current, which is a lot higher)UPDATE: Headlight fuses now uprated to 20A per side. Fuses under passenger side bonnet panel