temperature rising...
Discussion
I had a similar cooling problem, that I believe was caused by airlock introduced by the servicing scheduled coolant change. No evidence of leaks/pressure test OK.
Basically how I solved it was by bleeding it via the burp method, as in open expansion tank cap, fill, turn on engine, bring up to before boiling temp while revving to force coolant around, till it burps. Switch off engine as coolant starts coming out after it expands), but I had to do that like 8 times (maybe didn't switch off early or late enough)... now settled to normal temps.
Basically how I solved it was by bleeding it via the burp method, as in open expansion tank cap, fill, turn on engine, bring up to before boiling temp while revving to force coolant around, till it burps. Switch off engine as coolant starts coming out after it expands), but I had to do that like 8 times (maybe didn't switch off early or late enough)... now settled to normal temps.
I have just spent an hour running the car on the drive bleeding the rad and filling the expansion tank.
The fans turn on at around 92 /97 but the temp rises to about 105 and then sits there, I have to blip the throttle a few times to get it to settle back down below 90.
I honestly do not think there is any more air in the system, when I bleed the rad when the fans come on (92/97) water sprays out the bleed screw so I guess that means the air is out, I have done this 4/5 times.
The system seems to hold pressure, the water hoses are nice and solid, the top hoses are hot,the bottom hoses warm.
I will let the car cool down and try again in a few hours.
How long after your SP6 fans kick in does the temp drop and to what temp does it drop to, SO I know what to aim for.
The fans turn on at around 92 /97 but the temp rises to about 105 and then sits there, I have to blip the throttle a few times to get it to settle back down below 90.
I honestly do not think there is any more air in the system, when I bleed the rad when the fans come on (92/97) water sprays out the bleed screw so I guess that means the air is out, I have done this 4/5 times.
The system seems to hold pressure, the water hoses are nice and solid, the top hoses are hot,the bottom hoses warm.
I will let the car cool down and try again in a few hours.
How long after your SP6 fans kick in does the temp drop and to what temp does it drop to, SO I know what to aim for.
It's the swirl pot you should be topping up as per the instructions in this link; Chimaera Forum
Repeated here;
Ignore the fact that he refers to the heater, this is how to fill the cooling system.
Works every time
Repeated here;
Ignore the fact that he refers to the heater, this is how to fill the cooling system.
Works every time
ChimpofDarkness said:
Follow these steps, then tell me your heater is still ineffective.
- Jack & support at the front so the nose of the car is as high as possible (this helps encourage a good flow around the heater and force the trapped air out)
- Remove the brass plug from the swirl pot & insert a large funnel
- Open the heater valve fully by putting the heater control to it's hottest setting (it may be worth checking it's truly fully open at the valve itself)
- Fill your large funnel you the brim with coolant and start the car
- Increase engine revs and wait for the thermostat to open (you can feel the hoses to establish the thermostat has opened)
- Keep filling your funnel (IMPORTANT: Don't let the coolant in the funnel drop to the level of the swirl pot)
- Rev the engine to get the water pump spinning, this will aid circulation & help burp the air out
- Keep adding coolant to your big funnel as the level falls and the trapped air gets burped out
- Go back inside the car & check the heater performance, if all the air has burped out you should have a continuous column of water circulating around the heater matrix and an extremely effective heater
- Switch off, remove the funnel, replace the brass swirl pot plug, then drop the car back on it's wheels
- Go for a drive to test the heater performance at speed
natben said:
SergSC,
Did you open the radiator while doing the open expansion cap method or does that remain closed?
It was only through the expansion cap. After reading reports on here of that being done successfully.Did you open the radiator while doing the open expansion cap method or does that remain closed?
Does the temp go back up immediately as the revs go down?
Maybe give Power a call since they did your rebuild. They would have checked the condition of the water pump at the time, so I doubt its that. How many miles since?
I know from past experience that TrackVRoad are happy to help out complete strangers over the phone.
natben said:
I honestly do not think there is any more air in the system, when I bleed the rad when the fans come on (92/97) water sprays out the bleed screw so I guess that means the air is out, I have done this 4/5 times.
Only 4 or 5 times? Bah! Maybe give the bleed screw a rest and try the burp method. Maybe that unstucks air from certain areas better, is my theory.
It was only through the expansion cap. After reading reports on here of that being done successfully.
Does the temp go back up immediately as the revs go down? No not immediatley gradually over a period of time, If I blip the throttle a few times when the temp is at 100 the temp drops back down to 70/80 fairly quickly
Maybe give Power a call since they did your rebuild. They would have checked the condition of the water pump at the time, so I doubt its that. How many miles since? 6,000 but I don't think it is the water pump
I know from past experience that TrackVRoad are happy to help out complete strangers over the phone.
Maybe give the bleed screw a rest and try the burp method. Maybe that unstucks air from certain areas better, is my theory.
thanks guys I will give it a go in the morning, I have been bleeding it from both the rad and the Expansion tank I take it the expansion tank and swirl pot are the same thing?Does the temp go back up immediately as the revs go down? No not immediatley gradually over a period of time, If I blip the throttle a few times when the temp is at 100 the temp drops back down to 70/80 fairly quickly
Maybe give Power a call since they did your rebuild. They would have checked the condition of the water pump at the time, so I doubt its that. How many miles since? 6,000 but I don't think it is the water pump
I know from past experience that TrackVRoad are happy to help out complete strangers over the phone.
natben said:
I honestly do not think there is any more air in the system, when I bleed the rad when the fans come on (92/97) water sprays out the bleed screw so I guess that means the air is out, I have done this 4/5 times.
Only 4 or 5 times? Bah! Maybe give the bleed screw a rest and try the burp method. Maybe that unstucks air from certain areas better, is my theory.
I have poured litres of coolent through the car today and it has made no difference so it's time for a change of plan. Here's hoping the above method works.
natben said:
Hi Goaty,
Thanks for all your input, my car is a Cerbera Speed Six and does not have a swirl pot so I guess I can use this method on the expansion tank instead. The expansion tank is up beside the windcreen on the passengers side of the engine bay.
Okay sorry, I am not expert on the speed 6 Cerbera, but that photo is a speed 6 Cerbera Thanks for all your input, my car is a Cerbera Speed Six and does not have a swirl pot so I guess I can use this method on the expansion tank instead. The expansion tank is up beside the windcreen on the passengers side of the engine bay.
Good luck with it.
No way thats a Cerbera, the bonnet is hinged from the front
Looks to be a Sagaris to me
this one I believe
http://www.in2motorsports.com/greatest-cars-tvr-sa...
Looks to be a Sagaris to me
this one I believe
http://www.in2motorsports.com/greatest-cars-tvr-sa...
Edited by PuffsBack on Monday 7th April 12:02
Hi Goaty, again thanks for your help and advice.
The photo you posted is from a T350 or Sagaris.
I have gave it a go and at about 90deg bubles start coming out the expansion cap/ home made addaptor(picture) right through to 99 deg then I rev the engine and it drops back down to 85ish no bubbles, I have ran this cycle 5 times and I am now letting the car cool down before trying again as so far it has made no difference but as SercSG has said I need to do it maybe 8+times.
If this does not work then It will have to get transported to a garage as I have taken it as far as I can.
Again thanks for your help.
The photo you posted is from a T350 or Sagaris.
I have gave it a go and at about 90deg bubles start coming out the expansion cap/ home made addaptor(picture) right through to 99 deg then I rev the engine and it drops back down to 85ish no bubbles, I have ran this cycle 5 times and I am now letting the car cool down before trying again as so far it has made no difference but as SercSG has said I need to do it maybe 8+times.
If this does not work then It will have to get transported to a garage as I have taken it as far as I can.
Again thanks for your help.
Well So far,
I have ran the car up to Temperature
Up to 99deg with both fans coming on,
Bubbles do appear inside the expansion tank home made contraption,
But the temperature hasn't shifted,it remains at 99/100 and would keep rising slowly if I let it.
I'm thinking the bubbles are because the water is boiling and nothing to do with an air lock!!.
I have ran it through this process 10 times with absolutley no difference.
I have given up and am now taken the dog for a long walk,
God help anyone who looks at me the wrong way.
I have ran the car up to Temperature
Up to 99deg with both fans coming on,
Bubbles do appear inside the expansion tank home made contraption,
But the temperature hasn't shifted,it remains at 99/100 and would keep rising slowly if I let it.
I'm thinking the bubbles are because the water is boiling and nothing to do with an air lock!!.
I have ran it through this process 10 times with absolutley no difference.
I have given up and am now taken the dog for a long walk,
God help anyone who looks at me the wrong way.
Hi George,
did you test the new thermostat in a cup of boiling water to confirm it is opening fully.
I use a vacuum purge tool http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-09544-Coolant-Vacuu... basically it removes all of the air from the system and replaces it with a vacuum. If you cant maintain a vacuum you have a leak. The vacuum is then replaced with coolant. No need to rev the car, vent it etc... I suspect you may have a leak some where.
The system is fairly simple so it can only be one of a few things -
Thermostat not opening fully, so increased revs helps force the coolant through the restricted flow a partially opened thermostat is creating. (Defective new thermostats arent unheard of. Id be very tempted to pull the thermostat and test it. you could even run without it temporarily without issue.
Air entering the system due to a leak somewhere in the circuit.
Air locked in the system which is forced around at higher rpm (unlikely as you seem to have bled it thoroughly)
There is an issue with the water pump (again unlikely if you see a reduction in temp with rpm)
did you test the new thermostat in a cup of boiling water to confirm it is opening fully.
I use a vacuum purge tool http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-09544-Coolant-Vacuu... basically it removes all of the air from the system and replaces it with a vacuum. If you cant maintain a vacuum you have a leak. The vacuum is then replaced with coolant. No need to rev the car, vent it etc... I suspect you may have a leak some where.
The system is fairly simple so it can only be one of a few things -
Thermostat not opening fully, so increased revs helps force the coolant through the restricted flow a partially opened thermostat is creating. (Defective new thermostats arent unheard of. Id be very tempted to pull the thermostat and test it. you could even run without it temporarily without issue.
Air entering the system due to a leak somewhere in the circuit.
Air locked in the system which is forced around at higher rpm (unlikely as you seem to have bled it thoroughly)
There is an issue with the water pump (again unlikely if you see a reduction in temp with rpm)
Edited by m4tti on Monday 7th April 13:49
Edited by m4tti on Monday 7th April 13:53
Hi Nathan
I’ve got a S6 cerbera and just read your posts from the start.
Here are my thoughts for what it’s worth.
The fans and temp actually sound okay-ish. I took mine for a 50 mile run over the w/e and the fans cut in around 90/95, the system runs up to around 100 before the temp starts to back off. It will take a couple of minutes for the cooled water to circulate back to the temp sensor once the fans cut in and revving the engine will help as it increases the flow.
You say in your original post you’ve changed your stat. One possible theory, and it's just a theory, is that if the old stat had failed open, this would have caused the car to originally run cooler and since you’ve changed the stat, the car is actually now running more as it should? Just a thought and assuming mine is running okay!!!!!!!!
Have you tried driving the car recently, does it still puke up?
Also maybe worth a post in the Cerb section on S6 Cerb running temps?
Finally have you checked / changed the temp sensor?
P.S. lovely colour.
I’ve got a S6 cerbera and just read your posts from the start.
Here are my thoughts for what it’s worth.
The fans and temp actually sound okay-ish. I took mine for a 50 mile run over the w/e and the fans cut in around 90/95, the system runs up to around 100 before the temp starts to back off. It will take a couple of minutes for the cooled water to circulate back to the temp sensor once the fans cut in and revving the engine will help as it increases the flow.
You say in your original post you’ve changed your stat. One possible theory, and it's just a theory, is that if the old stat had failed open, this would have caused the car to originally run cooler and since you’ve changed the stat, the car is actually now running more as it should? Just a thought and assuming mine is running okay!!!!!!!!
Have you tried driving the car recently, does it still puke up?
Also maybe worth a post in the Cerb section on S6 Cerb running temps?
Finally have you checked / changed the temp sensor?
P.S. lovely colour.
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