Water pipe - 3.6 SP6
Discussion
Stunned Monkey said:
Thanks for that quote, however as noted above in one of my references, surface area is key to combining dissimilar metals - if the surface area of the more active conductor is significantly larger than the less active (eg stainless bolts holding an aluminium panel), there should be no problem, however using aluminium rivets (or indeed zinc plated bolts) to hold a stainless panel is a bad idea - something that hadn't crossed my mind until reading up on this subject. As noted above, I would not like to rely on the internal surface area of the pipework being that much less than the internal surface area of the engine's cooling jacket. Nor should we rely on coolant quality as that's bad engineering.
Going back to my original post, would you not agree that aluminium is the ideal material for these replacement pipes?
Why didn't you say, that this was the answer you always wanted to hear? Would've saved me some time to get my answer together.Going back to my original post, would you not agree that aluminium is the ideal material for these replacement pipes?
Yes, aluminium is the best. Go for it. If there is aluminium pipe. Sure. If there ain't: Stainless steel would be just fine. Even mild steel does the job, if the conditions are right.
In my opinion you just overthink these things. But hey...I always thought, that us germans are the big worrywarts.... ;-)
glow worm said:
Are you proposing also changing the oil cooler since the inner core is copper ?
I reckon 76 pipes with a diameter of 4mm 12 cm long gives a surface area of 1146 sq cm of copper (I think )
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Reckon that surface area is small compared to the engine I reckon 76 pipes with a diameter of 4mm 12 cm long gives a surface area of 1146 sq cm of copper (I think )
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I'm new to this TVR of mine, but what you describe sounds more like a radiator than the kind of oil-water heat exchangers with which I'm familiar..?
RobertoBlanco said:
Why didn't you say, that this was the answer you always wanted to hear? Would've saved me some time to get my answer together.
Well it was pretty much the wording in my original post...And with the greatest respect, I haven't seen an answer that is supported by independent documentation. If you can point me to some, I'm very keen to learn.
I agree it will *probably* be fine, at least as long as the coolant is maintained. But I've seen what happens inside a poorly maintained cooling system which *didn't* have materials this far apart and it wasn't pretty. Heater matrix feed entirely blocked, radiator flow slowed to a trickle, stuck thermostat, sludge built up around the cylinder liners rotting away their seats in the aluminium block.
There is no reason not to do it right in the first place IMO.
But as these pipes are available, and very nice they are too, i suggest taking the precaution of insulating them electrically from the chassis. Simples.
Stunned Monkey said:
Well it was pretty much the wording in my original post...
And with the greatest respect, I haven't seen an answer that is supported by independent documentation. If you can point me to some, I'm very keen to learn.
I agree it will *probably* be fine, at least as long as the coolant is maintained. But I've seen what happens inside a poorly maintained cooling system which *didn't* have materials this far apart and it wasn't pretty. Heater matrix feed entirely blocked, radiator flow slowed to a trickle, stuck thermostat, sludge built up around the cylinder liners rotting away their seats in the aluminium block.
There is no reason not to do it right in the first place IMO.
But as these pipes are available, and very nice they are too, i suggest taking the precaution of insulating them electrically from the chassis. Simples.
Ok, fair enough. I told you my opinion. I have no free to use literature on my hands. So, sorry.And with the greatest respect, I haven't seen an answer that is supported by independent documentation. If you can point me to some, I'm very keen to learn.
I agree it will *probably* be fine, at least as long as the coolant is maintained. But I've seen what happens inside a poorly maintained cooling system which *didn't* have materials this far apart and it wasn't pretty. Heater matrix feed entirely blocked, radiator flow slowed to a trickle, stuck thermostat, sludge built up around the cylinder liners rotting away their seats in the aluminium block.
There is no reason not to do it right in the first place IMO.
But as these pipes are available, and very nice they are too, i suggest taking the precaution of insulating them electrically from the chassis. Simples.
If you mess up your environment, i.e. cooling system, no wonder everything is in shambles. Do not always top up with plain water, change coolant every 5 or so years, do not mix coolant types.
Done.
Electric insulation is always the best to prevent galvanic couples, if possible. So, for example flat nonconductive gaskets would be a good start. Insulating the under head area of bolts and nuts is more difficult, though.
You do not have to electrically insulate from the chassis, if they are not directly connected and not covered by the same electrolyte. You can always argue about long range effect of galvanic couples, but this is negligible in my opinion.
In my opinion the stainless pipe is an upgrade to the plain mild steel one. Aluminium would be best, but not available as far as i know.
Yes, there are two bottom engine pipes (one for the Tuscan and one for the Sag)... and the Sag has two metal pipes from the rad with bleed valves unfortunately Tim /ACT only make one of them (ACT silicon hoses have the short one built in .. my hoses are Powers).
Hydrographic carbon printing is my lastest craze ... the pedal box is the original TVR ally one with"gold" carbon printing , so is the airbox and plug cover... a bit cheaper than over £1000 for an Airbox in carbon. £30 /dip each side. . The "teeth" on the Sag splitters cost a bit .... 6 teeth,two sides but I got those for £200 as a deal.
Hydrographic carbon printing is my lastest craze ... the pedal box is the original TVR ally one with"gold" carbon printing , so is the airbox and plug cover... a bit cheaper than over £1000 for an Airbox in carbon. £30 /dip each side.
. The "teeth" on the Sag splitters cost a bit .... 6 teeth,two sides but I got those for £200 as a deal.Edited by glow worm on Monday 15th December 16:36
RedSpike66 said:
Who does the polishing ? You or is there someone you recommend ? Same for the carbon dipping please :-)
I do most of the small pieces myself on a bench polisher with pads and waxes bought on e-bay. The fuel rail was done by Mick "The Polisher" in Glasgow www.the-polisher.com (he polished the rims of my OZ split rims and re-assembled). Quite a few places offer hydrographic diping ( or you can buy your own kits) , but I used Wicked Dips at Fleetwood (Neil and Craig 01253 283480) .. they are on FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/wickeddipsnorthwestEdited by glow worm on Wednesday 17th December 20:51
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