Is the extra coolant tank advisable if engine upgraded?
Discussion
[quote=chris watton]
I don't know how old the current clutch is, to be honest - but I figured that, if I have the 4.3 done in around December time, as I understand it, there is then a 1000 mile run-in period where you can't go above 3k rpm (is that right)?
Over the Winder months, I will not cover that run-in mileage, so am assuming it would be perhaps March before I have the service - and by that time, I'll have more than enough savings to cover remaining upgrades, like gearbox, clutch (if not done before), new tyres (40's on the front) and finally, the icing on the cake, a full geo set-up to help sort my new crappy Nitrons.
That's the plan, anyway - and barring me being out of a job in the meantime, I'll stick to it.
Yes the run in is 1000 miles, and no you can,t go above 3000 Revs
What's wrong with the existing gearbox works fine for me, I would leave the existing gearbox and get the clutch done while the engine is out, but that's my opinion and save the money for other uprades,
Is there a problem with the Nitrons, biggest issue I had with Nitrons on my Cerb the rear springs was too soft and I got it set up a few times and it still grounded out till I got stiffer springs but by then the Nitrons was f---ked so had to get them rebuilt £480 and that was just the rears , fronts was £120
Seems like you have a plan and your going to stick to it anyway
P.S. You will love the 4.3
I don't know how old the current clutch is, to be honest - but I figured that, if I have the 4.3 done in around December time, as I understand it, there is then a 1000 mile run-in period where you can't go above 3k rpm (is that right)?
Over the Winder months, I will not cover that run-in mileage, so am assuming it would be perhaps March before I have the service - and by that time, I'll have more than enough savings to cover remaining upgrades, like gearbox, clutch (if not done before), new tyres (40's on the front) and finally, the icing on the cake, a full geo set-up to help sort my new crappy Nitrons.
That's the plan, anyway - and barring me being out of a job in the meantime, I'll stick to it.
Yes the run in is 1000 miles, and no you can,t go above 3000 Revs
What's wrong with the existing gearbox works fine for me, I would leave the existing gearbox and get the clutch done while the engine is out, but that's my opinion and save the money for other uprades,
Is there a problem with the Nitrons, biggest issue I had with Nitrons on my Cerb the rear springs was too soft and I got it set up a few times and it still grounded out till I got stiffer springs but by then the Nitrons was f---ked so had to get them rebuilt £480 and that was just the rears , fronts was £120
Seems like you have a plan and your going to stick to it anyway
P.S. You will love the 4.3
billynobrakes said:
chris watton said:
I don't know how old the current clutch is, to be honest - but I figured that, if I have the 4.3 done in around December time, as I understand it, there is then a 1000 mile run-in period where you can't go above 3k rpm (is that right)?
Over the Winder months, I will not cover that run-in mileage, so am assuming it would be perhaps March before I have the service - and by that time, I'll have more than enough savings to cover remaining upgrades, like gearbox, clutch (if not done before), new tyres (40's on the front) and finally, the icing on the cake, a full geo set-up to help sort my new crappy Nitrons.
That's the plan, anyway - and barring me being out of a job in the meantime, I'll stick to it.
Yes the run in is 1000 miles, and no you can,t go above 3000 Revs Over the Winder months, I will not cover that run-in mileage, so am assuming it would be perhaps March before I have the service - and by that time, I'll have more than enough savings to cover remaining upgrades, like gearbox, clutch (if not done before), new tyres (40's on the front) and finally, the icing on the cake, a full geo set-up to help sort my new crappy Nitrons.
That's the plan, anyway - and barring me being out of a job in the meantime, I'll stick to it.
What's wrong with the existing gearbox works fine for me, I would leave the existing gearbox and get the clutch done while the engine is out, but that's my opinion and save the money for other uprades,
Is there a problem with the Nitrons, biggest issue I had with Nitrons on my Cerb the rear springs was too soft and I got it set up a few times and it still grounded out till I got stiffer springs but by then the Nitrons was f---ked so had to get them rebuilt £480 and that was just the rears , fronts was £120
Seems like you have a plan and your going to stick to it anyway
P.S. You will love the 4.3
I loved the three CR gears in my first Tam - especially changing down to second on the motorway to overtake!
My Nitrons are too hard right now, making anything other than smooth roads a nightmare - and I have never minded a hard set-up before, but these take it to a whole new level - great for track days, bone-jarring for normal crappy UK roads. That is the only upgrade I have thus far regretted.
Chris
The 4.3 is so much different than the 3.6 (obviously) it has far more torque so you don,t need to rev the nuts off it to get it going or constantly up and down the gears as you do with the 3.6 so overtaking is far easier
Its up to you but I would get Dom to check the clutch, he will anyway and advise you if it needs changing, personally I would get it changed as the engine is out then try the new engine then decide if you need to change the gearbox, I am only thinking of saving you money
That's unusual with Nitrons being too hard have you turned them down a few notches
I am running Gaz Monotubes and I am really impressed
The 4.3 is so much different than the 3.6 (obviously) it has far more torque so you don,t need to rev the nuts off it to get it going or constantly up and down the gears as you do with the 3.6 so overtaking is far easier
Its up to you but I would get Dom to check the clutch, he will anyway and advise you if it needs changing, personally I would get it changed as the engine is out then try the new engine then decide if you need to change the gearbox, I am only thinking of saving you money
That's unusual with Nitrons being too hard have you turned them down a few notches
I am running Gaz Monotubes and I am really impressed
billynobrakes said:
Chris
The 4.3 is so much different than the 3.6 (obviously) it has far more torque so you don,t need to rev the nuts off it to get it going or constantly up and down the gears as you do with the 3.6 so overtaking is far easier
Its up to you but I would get Dom to check the clutch, he will anyway and advise you if it needs changing, personally I would get it changed as the engine is out then try the new engine then decide if you need to change the gearbox, I am only thinking of saving you money
That's unusual with Nitrons being too hard have you turned them down a few notches
I am running Gaz Monotubes and I am really impressed
The 4.3 is so much different than the 3.6 (obviously) it has far more torque so you don,t need to rev the nuts off it to get it going or constantly up and down the gears as you do with the 3.6 so overtaking is far easier
Its up to you but I would get Dom to check the clutch, he will anyway and advise you if it needs changing, personally I would get it changed as the engine is out then try the new engine then decide if you need to change the gearbox, I am only thinking of saving you money
That's unusual with Nitrons being too hard have you turned them down a few notches
I am running Gaz Monotubes and I am really impressed
I will see what it's like after the upgrade, regarding the gearbox. I would imagine 1st on the standard box would be virtually redundant though, with that extra torque!
dont forget the slave 
otherwise gearbox out job is waiting if there is a problem afterwards.
if youre at it get a new clutch for piece of mind some new silicone hoses and a lightend flywheel.
getting your manifolds coated once engine is out anyway would also be a good thing to have to keep
under bonnet temps down. no need for an extra coolant temp in my opinion.
if your gearbox is alright save your money for usefull things instead of going CR. if you need
a rebuilt anyway then ok why not.
otherwise gearbox out job is waiting if there is a problem afterwards.if youre at it get a new clutch for piece of mind some new silicone hoses and a lightend flywheel.
getting your manifolds coated once engine is out anyway would also be a good thing to have to keep
under bonnet temps down. no need for an extra coolant temp in my opinion.
if your gearbox is alright save your money for usefull things instead of going CR. if you need
a rebuilt anyway then ok why not.
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