Taking manifolds off - does the engine need to come out?

Taking manifolds off - does the engine need to come out?

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chris watton

Original Poster:

22,477 posts

260 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
I wonder if these thermal manifold sleeves would be an OK substitute, and may just be doable with a little bit of contorting:

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/thermo-tec-8-...

Looks like you simply wrap the sleeve around the pipe and then you can pull it into position like a sock.

The problem I have is that one of the manifold pipes is actually touching the bulkhead heat shield.

SergSC

508 posts

162 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
afaik the engine doesn't `have to` come off, its just a massive pita due to poor access to manifold bolts (iirc they are awkward alen heads type thing). The mechanic who did this for hates me now... Just so I could do the engine mount thermal insulation mod (install insulated engine mount bracket, install heat drain thick gauge cable, insulate mount).

mk1fan

10,517 posts

225 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
SergSC said:
the engine mount thermal insulation mod (install insulated engine mount bracket, install heat drain thick gauge cable, insulate mount).
I have two coated mounts to fit too.

Looks more and more less faffy / sensible to wait for the engine swap.

chris watton

Original Poster:

22,477 posts

260 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
mk1fan said:
I have two coated mounts to fit too.

Looks more and more less faffy / sensible to wait for the engine swap.
Meant to ask, what are you swapping your engine with, and why?

mk1fan

10,517 posts

225 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
Tamy's [still original] 3.6 has always been tappety but now there's a slight whining. Now this could be nothing or it could be something.

I've no issues with the performance of the 3.6 but have started to make vague plans for a rebuild of some sorts.

Then up popped a 4.0 engine on evil bay being sold needing a rebuild. Complete with gearbox, throttle bodies, injectors, manifolds and alternator. Seller was down the road from me. Went and had a look. Engine ran, no noises but smokey when warmed up.

Had a look at Powers website. Replacement tall engine £7.4k, standard rebuild £5.4k. The engine offered was less than the £2k difference and came with other bits too. So deal was done.

Seller was also heading past Powers and delivered it for me.

I instructed Dom that I was in no hurry for the motor so it has been with him a month now. I think it's ready for assembly but there's been a few 'urgent' requests made so (and I have no issue with this) Dom has set mine aside.

Once returned to me and after Samy goes to the paint shop, I'll do an engine swap - along with some wiring mods and other bits whilst the engine is out. I've got a set of modded throttle bodies to go on too.

chris watton

Original Poster:

22,477 posts

260 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
mk1fan]Tamy's [still original said:
3.6 has always been tappety but now there's a slight whining. Now this could be nothing or it could be something.

I've no issues with the performance of the 3.6 but have started to make vague plans for a rebuild of some sorts.

Then up popped a 4.0 engine on evil bay being sold needing a rebuild. Complete with gearbox, throttle bodies, injectors, manifolds and alternator. Seller was down the road from me. Went and had a look. Engine ran, no noises but smokey when warmed up.

Had a look at Powers website. Replacement tall engine £7.4k, standard rebuild £5.4k. The engine offered was less than the £2k difference and came with other bits too. So deal was done.

Seller was also heading past Powers and delivered it for me.

I instructed Dom that I was in no hurry for the motor so it has been with him a month now. I think it's ready for assembly but there's been a few 'urgent' requests made so (and I have no issue with this) Dom has set mine aside.

Once returned to me and after Samy goes to the paint shop, I'll do an engine swap - along with some wiring mods and other bits whilst the engine is out. I've got a set of modded throttle bodies to go on too.
Sounds great - Quite a project then! Should be better than new when complete.

coco79

390 posts

174 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
mk1fan]Tamy's [still original said:
3.6 has always been tappety but now there's a slight whining. Now this could be nothing or it could be something.

I've no issues with the performance of the 3.6 but have started to make vague plans for a rebuild of some sorts.

Then up popped a 4.0 engine on evil bay being sold needing a rebuild. Complete with gearbox, throttle bodies, injectors, manifolds and alternator. Seller was down the road from me. Went and had a look. Engine ran, no noises but smokey when warmed up.

Had a look at Powers website. Replacement tall engine £7.4k, standard rebuild £5.4k. The engine offered was less than the £2k difference and came with other bits too. So deal was done.

Seller was also heading past Powers and delivered it for me.

I instructed Dom that I was in no hurry for the motor so it has been with him a month now. I think it's ready for assembly but there's been a few 'urgent' requests made so (and I have no issue with this) Dom has set mine aside.

Once returned to me and after Samy goes to the paint shop, I'll do an engine swap - along with some wiring mods and other bits whilst the engine is out. I've got a set of modded throttle bodies to go on too.
mk1fan, what sort of modifications are you having done to the throttle bodies?

mk1fan

10,517 posts

225 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
andy_mr2sc's bearing mod on the spindles. http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/parts-and-p...

I may also do what Clivef did and grind the leading edge of the throttle body opening to smooth flow.

m4tti

5,427 posts

155 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
Or you could leave your throttle bodies, as they are and buy the soon to be released act new style carbon airbox, which has shouldered silicone hose runners.

Where the hoses connecting the airbox to the trottle body have a step, making the internal diameter of the hose identical to that of the body, with the step portion providing an outer lip securing said hose to the body. Providing a seamless transition from throttle body, hose runner and air box.

clive f

7,250 posts

233 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
sounds the same as my stainless airbox.

m4tti

5,427 posts

155 months

Thursday 11th June 2015
quotequote all
Ahh I wondered if you'd used shouldered hoses Clive.

Hmm very tempting as a)there's a delay on the act box and b)I've modded the lower half of my box to include an idle control valve.

twinreal

300 posts

155 months

Friday 12th June 2015
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Don't get why to leave the bodies as they are. The bearing mod is a big improvement in combination with isolated body gaskets. Have them a few thousand miles now and no shunting anymore. synced them once when fitting and they are still fine without doing anything on them.
For me it seems a much better improvement as a shiny, blingy and very expensive carbon airbox with minor airflow mods. Just my personal opinion....

m4tti

5,427 posts

155 months

Friday 12th June 2015
quotequote all
Talking about knife edging not bearing conversion.

mk1fan

10,517 posts

225 months

Friday 12th June 2015
quotequote all
Well my airbox does look like squashed coke bottle so maybe it's replacement can be something that negates the need for knife edging the throttle bodies scratchchin

clive f

7,250 posts

233 months

Friday 12th June 2015
quotequote all
m4tti said:
Ahh I wondered if you'd used shouldered hoses Clive.

Hmm very tempting as a)there's a delay on the act box and b)I've modded the lower half of my box to include an idle control valve.
the hoses are normal, in the intake pipes are the same outside diameter as the throttle bodies, the internal diameter same once a bit of fettling is done on the bodies to help airflow.

how is your idle control valve working in the bottom half?

m4tti

5,427 posts

155 months

Friday 12th June 2015
quotequote all
Seems to work really well. I fashioned a small mounting bracket for it. You get 1000 rpm cold idle, 1000 rpm hot idle. Magic.





It's almost like a "real" car now biggrin

chris watton

Original Poster:

22,477 posts

260 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
quotequote all
This is why I was thinking of having the ceramic coating - one of the manifold pipes actually touches the heat shield, and no matter what I do, I cannot change that:


m4tti

5,427 posts

155 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
quotequote all
Chris. Was it touching before the rebuild? Did you have new engine mounts? You may achieve some clearance by loosening the engine mount bolts and having someone push the engine towards the drivers side while you tighten them up again.

chris watton

Original Poster:

22,477 posts

260 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
quotequote all
m4tti said:
Chris. Was it touching before the rebuild? Did you have new engine mounts? You may achieve some clearance by loosening the engine mount bolts and having someone push the engine towards the drivers side while you tighten them up again.
I can't honestly remember, I never really took much notice before. Not sure about the mounts, but they look quite new. Will see if the engine can be moved slightly towards the drivers side when it's next in.

If it can't be moved, then there's not a chance in hell of those larger bore manifolds fitting, not without incurring heat damage, at least, I would have thought.

m4tti

5,427 posts

155 months

Saturday 13th June 2015
quotequote all
Haven't studied those new manifolds, sure Clive will be able to comment on fitment. I'll check mine later. Bonnets on the shelf.